diy solar

diy solar

Cheap Chinese junk: I'll trow my 3 Daly controllers in the garbage bin. ANGRY!!!

ANYTIME you mess with the BMS Harness Leads, disconnect the BMS !
Same if you are disconnecting Busbars on the battery assembly etc.
Failure to do so can very often result in Magic Smoke.

As for the AC DC which is dangerous... SERIOUSLY, Tesla & Edison fought that out 100 years ago.
Volts do NOT KILL, AMPS DO !
AC & DC can be safe OR dangerous - All Electricity MUST BE HANDLED WITH RESPECT !
Well, that is the general wisdom, volts will ALWAYS have enough amps to kill...

yes, static electricity in the mega volt range seems harmless because of the lack of amps present, but in fact, the reason static voltage doesn’t harm you, is because it isn’t FLOWING THROUGH YOUR HEART. It is being released or absorbed by your skin and hair.

DC, or AC voltage can kill at any VOLTAGE over about 24V.
All it takes is 39mA... the heart can be very prone to failure from electric charge passing through it.

24V is dangerous, but mostly from jerking away from a shock. 30V and up and ya really can’t let go when your body is in circuit...
DONT LET YOUR BODY BE IN CIRCUIT!
 
That is a nice set of answers regarding Poe shock hazards to ground... completely different from 48v battery terminal to terminal...

Trust me... 48v can and will kill you. It is very easy to prevent electrocution from it, as it isn’t grounded, and if you only handle one conductor at a time, a shock is unlikely... but 48v is well above the 28v, skin voltage shock threshold...
48 volts basically can't hurt you... i mean if you place salt water soaked pads on your chest maybe. Even OSHA say anything under 50v doesn't require PPE, now that being said the battery system have usually have massive current so burn and exploding metal and batteries is very much a hazzard
 
/me, has the entire floor of power house covered with 5'x7' 3/4" thick rubber Horse Matt's.

Similar to below: They come in different sizes. Home Depot puts them on sale occasionally and are a great bargain at that time.
4 ft. x 6 ft. x 3/4 in. Thick Rubber Stall Mat at Tractor Supply Co.

Never disrespect Electricity, it has No Respect for you !
 
ANYTIME you mess with the BMS Harness Leads, disconnect the BMS !

Okay, I get that, but why is disconnecting the B- lead from BMS to battery *LAST* a cause of death for BMS?
 
Yeah, I've been posting about my negative experience with Daly the last few months.
I assume only models 100A and up are affected and their base business is as good as it used to be (the models tested by @Will Prowse )

Perhaps it's time to make a new one, about the "smart" models.
I'm happy to donate mine!

Where mine does work, it's a version 1 in 3 different hardware design the last 6 or 7 months...
One should ask why....
(@HaldorEE ... ??)

Sorry to read about yet an other negative experience with +100A smart Daly models.
 
I read that the reason the automotive world is moving to 48V and not higher because they thought that was the highest they could go and still be safe enough. Not safe, safe *enough*.
 
48 volts basically can't hurt you... i mean if you place salt water soaked pads on your chest maybe. Even OSHA say anything under 50v doesn't require PPE, now that being said the battery system have usually have massive current so burn and exploding metal and batteries is very much a hazzard
Wow, you've obviously not worked with telecom equipment. I'll continue to follow the instructions of my first electronics instructor, treat anything above 30 volts as deadly. Even if he was an ex-nazi, he knows what he was talking about. High current is indeed dangerous, I have personally witnessed what negative 2 volts at 500 amps can do to a screwdriver (MRI machines can use some interesting voltages and currents).
 
Wow, you've obviously not worked with telecom equipment. I'll continue to follow the instructions of my first electronics instructor, treat anything above 30 volts as deadly. Even if he was an ex-nazi, he knows what he was talking about. High current is indeed dangerous, I have personally witnessed what negative 2 volts at 500 amps can do to a screwdriver (MRI machines can use some interesting voltages and currents).
He is probably just fishing for reactions, and never played with anything above 12v.

I welcome him to my home and he can grab my bare + and - battery leads for 2 minutes.

He just needs to buy a one way ticket.

Hospital is about 30 minutes out, so don't worry about getting there on time.
And even if you do, hospitals are cheap here, especially compared to the states.

If he survives, I'll pay his return ticket.
(And that's not a joke)

+48 volts, we talking about solar systems with enough capacity...
Even a small setup of 100Ah@48v..
You won't hold bare + and - leads for 2 minutes in your hands.
LiFePO4 it's 51.2 nominal.
That 3.2 volts extra should not scare him off, right @GSXR1000 ?

1016Ah at the moment....
I don't have to buy that ticket...
Tonnes explaining to do for the local police, sure.
 
I dropped a wrench the other day and shorted 48V.
A busbar melted. The screw disintegrated. And the terminal is destroyed.
About 6 nuts got welded to the studs.
I'm sure that wasn't good for any of the cells.
It took about 2 seconds.
Yes, I should really stop trying to convince people. I just didn't want people with zero experience to read the thread and think "everything is fine, I read it on the internet".
 
I was zipping along using a deep socket and staying away from everything until a bunch of wires tripped me up.
The socket got welded to my ratchet.
I need to use tools covered in rubber or plastic.
 
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I was zipping along using a deep socket and staying away from everything until I a bunch of wires tripped me up.
The socket got welded to my ratchet.
I need to use tools covered in rubber or plastic.
This works well for me, but you could always use heatshrink as well.
Insulated wrench

BTW, I have no idea why it opens in Dutch.
 
In the worst case scenario, just tape off the tools like socket driver, screwdriver etc, even with Masking Tape if that's all you got and it'll be better than bare metal. Electricity will not go through Masking Take BUT this is not a permanent solution. No need to get all carried away for doing a few cells.
 
I read that the reason the automotive world is moving to 48V and not higher because they thought that was the highest they could go and still be safe enough. Not safe, safe *enough*.
Actually, the automotive world abandoned the move to higher than 12v several years ago due to arc damage of devices.
12v devices have slow arc potential with most any device in the circuit... 24 and up tend to arc on each switching path, and it would be difficult and expensive to have warranties... they ended up using high amperage conductor paths, and branching out to support the additional electronic loads of modern vehicles.
 
I was zipping along using a deep socket and staying away from everything until a bunch of wires tripped me up.
The socket got welded to my ratchet.
I need to use tools covered in rubber or plastic.
If it can be made to stick well try the liquid tape or maybe even Car undercoating spray.
 
I can tell you for a fact that anything over 30 volts is dangerous. Dispute with "internet experts" quotes at your own risk. My knowledge might date to the 1970s and earlier, but it hasn't changed.
I can confirm. I got a light shock from 24 volts, a slightly painful shock from 36v and OUCH from 48v. I forgot I had grounded my system to the frame of the motorhome and touched the frame with one hand while making the + connections on my batteries... next time, the - lead is the last one to be connected.
 
I can confirm. I got a light shock from 24 volts, a slightly painful shock from 36v and OUCH from 48v. I forgot I had grounded my system to the frame of the motorhome and touched the frame with one hand while making the + connections on my batteries... next time, the - lead is the last one to be connected.
THIS!
as long as safety is followed, 48V is safe to use, but safe to touch? Safe to short out? So safe that precautions aren’t needed?
ridiculous!

ALL electrical circuitry needs to be treated with skill and respect.

ANYTHING above 24V needs precautions and procedure to work around. It can and will kill!
 
Anyway, back on topic.

Daly BMS are pretty well featured on Wills YouTube channel. Is OP expecting too much from a cheap BMS or are there better options for the price point?

I found this thread after seeing YT, and signing up for more current information. About to pull the trigger on a few cells and a BMS
 
Anyway, back on topic.

Daly BMS are pretty well featured on Wills YouTube channel. Is OP expecting too much from a cheap BMS or are there better options for the price point?

I found this thread after seeing YT, and signing up for more current information. About to pull the trigger on a few cells and a BMS
They may or may not be cheap but they are not inexpensive.
 
Cheap is totally relative.
What's cheap.
Are the components lower quality then Batrium?
Absolutely and at lower price.

Is the research time and quality insurance lower then Batrium?
Again, absolutely.

Is spending +$ 800,- to safeguard the + 5000 investment expensive or cheap?

Relative to your point of view.
Your demands.
And your safe or risky nature.

Do you need up time?
Do you need a product that the builders really stand by, and don't make a fuss about warranty?

And what's that worth to you.

Real life story:
I build a mining farm in 2017 with +200 1060 GPU, and chosen Corsair power supplies. 40 of them, in the range of 750 to 1000, mostly 850w.

Now that's all gone and sold, except 2 PSU and 7 cards.

One PSU had starting problems.
Sometimes it would start, sometimes not.

Flipflop thought Google me, the electronic part that does the puls turn on thing.

So I opened the unit I search. Lost quite a lot of screws and other parts and could not find it.

I reached out to Corsair support, to find out what chip or part it was and replace it myself.

How surprised I was to hear this is warranty.
I received a pre-paid shipment label (DHL) to send to Korea.
Courier came to pick the old unit from our home (30 minutes from the main road) and a week later a new courier (FedEx) came and deliver me a brand new RM1000X.

That was not my reason for choosing Corsair. The stability of the PSU, what is more important when you Overclock the videocards.

Even that those PSU where in the higher price range, they turned out cheapest solution due the excellent customer support.

Daly dumb BMS is totally epoxied.
Impossible to repair or replace any parts.

Request it back at customer expense, is simple customer punishment for asking support.
If you get your money back, or get replacement temporary working unit... It's punishment for asking.
They absolutely have no use for it, not even the heatsink can be removed.

Their tests show quickly when it's defective.
They know they can't replace parts.
And if it's simple re-programming?
They should make that available and not charge $75,- to get the option for replacing or refund.

Not much more to it.

Sadly Daly isn't the only BMS builder who makes a crappy product.
I have received and seen them go defective in way too short time for that price.
5 bucks even would be to much.
+ $100... A price range one should be able to receive quality.
It ain't rocket science.

My alternative, DIYBMS is not for everyone.
It requires soldering and flashing.
It does give you the freedom to adjust the PCB if you have better design idea for your needs, as well as the software.

Measuring cell voltage and turn something on or off at a set threshold isn't that complicated.

It's the amps that the "old" design needs in its system that makes it vulnerable.
Mosfet design works perfectly for smaller amperes.

It was never designed for +100A.
It got upscaled to +400A...
And fails, and fails and fails.

My Daly 250A worked fine for 10 weeks.
Up to the day it stopped, around lunch time, none of the cells at high level or low.
Just stopped.

Will makes great reviews, absolutely.
Endurance tests aren't part of it.

If I didn't hear so many people in my limited environment around Daly BMS fail, I probably would advise one.
But I do.
And see how Daly abuses their "third world" status for postages.
How their new "smart" had 4 major hardware changes in 9 months, with absolutely no good support to any of the old units that fail, or don't work as specified.

If they need 4 large changes, it was launched premature.
The first 3 shouldn't have been in the field as sold products.

That's cheap thinking...

Not the product.
That probably is matured by now, Not build by Daly, but painted red (black available under different names) and sold as.

What's cheap...

I still have a mighty good feeling about Corsair.
To bad they don't make BMS!!

Batrium isn't the only quality builder out there.
There are a few other options.

If you want to stay in the price range as Daly, $100-150, then DIYBMS is the only one I know that comes close to stability, scalability and reliability.
 
Ask anyone in the utilities industries, worry about volts. Potential. Current is drawn by devices, voltage is what pushes it.
Do not become part of a circuit and you will be fine. That was mentioned but bears repeating.
In the navy as an avionics tech on F-4 phantoms one of our tasks regularly was tuning klystron magnetron power supplies for the radar. This had you using a brass screwdriver in the vicinity of an energized terminal with 28kvdc, yes 28,000 volts with IIRC around 10a current. Often done at night on the flight deck in rough seas, and you stood on the end of your aluminum tool box to see the pot screw and meter.
It was relatively safe for one protocol. Absolutely positively, one hand behind your back. If you slipped, no part of you becomes a circuit.
 
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