sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
Spot check one of the cells' SG?
Yes, showing 1.24 SGSpot check one of the cells' SG?
Will I have to take it off of de-sulfate to do it...or keep it there?Nope! Keep charging!
Charge until current drops to 20A and stays there for at least an hour....
I guess you can take a break though... no risk of freezing now...
Will I have to take it off of de-sulfate to do it...or keep it there?
I was thinking same thing given the lack of current going in too to warm them up to be tickled. Like trying to debark a tree in winter time, better do that in spring summer.Given the cold temps, the 31V desulfate is pushing is about right for a REGULAR charge. You may need to wait for warmer weather to truly desulfate.
Guess I need to get a sheet of EPS and wrap it with blankets on top then hit it some more.I would have thought, if the batteries were insulated and charged continuously for a day+, they would warm up.
TrukinBear had insulated his forklift battery, and while charging in winter the inverter/charger shut down for battery over temperature.
I would have thought, if the batteries were insulated and charged continuously for a day+, they would warm up.
TrukinBear had insulated his forklift battery, and while charging in winter the inverter/charger shut down for battery over temperature.
Guess I need to get a sheet of EPS and wrap it with blankets on top then hit it some more.
Yes it does and is installed, very easy RJ11 port to plug in. I think at this point insulation in itself and everything I have won't warm the battery to de-sulphate this battery till it warms up.I don't think it was -20°F at the time.
Good time to make sure all the cells are actually topped off with distilled water at this point.
Does your AIMS have a temp sensor? Is it installed?
Yes it does and is installed, very easy RJ11 port to plug in. I think at this point insulation in itself and everything I have won't warm the battery to de-sulphate this battery till it warms up.
though at -31°F, I'd be surprised if the battery can deliver more than 30-40% of its rated capacity (I didn't look up the charts).
Is that actually missing amp-hours?
Or just that the chemistry delivers lower than some arbitrary cut-off voltage at reduced SoC?
If one drained 30 to 40% of rated capacity while at -31F, then warmed battery up, would all the missing amp-hours magically reappear?
More importantly, if we just ran battery down to something like 10V or 8V or whatever, would the power be accessible?
(same question for Peukert and high discharge rates.)
And they wonder why I went with FLA instead LiFePO4, imagine battery would of went dead long time ago or not even enough capacity to run a dome light for few hours. When I get my pole barn built the battery will be more in protected space. Last year I managed to keep the lights on with a freezer running, 6KW inverter, and diesel heater when it got down to 40 plus below zero and 60 below zero windchill using 8 GC's on 24V at 440AH. Something tells me it's going to be more brutal here cause this weather is almost 2 months early.This is for my flooded Trojans:
View attachment 77978
Looks like closer to 20-25%. Ouch.
I don't know specifically, but I suspect it's a combination of efficiency losses and voltage drop - thereby hitting low voltage disconnect prematurely. I doubt warming it up to room temperature would "recover" the lost capacity, but I suspect you'd have a good chunk remaining.
and diesel heater when it got down to 40 plus below zero and 60 below zero windchill ... Something tells me it's going to be more brutal here cause this weather is almost 2 months early.
Yeah it tends to do that warming thing till another meteor becomes a meteorite, or a volcano blows it load creating a ash cloud sending us back into another nuclear winter.It's that global warming again!
You have got to stop using fossil fuel!
Round two... lets see how far past 100% we can go till it drops off while on de-sulphate mode. This could be awesome or end catastrophically, either way it's going to be fun ?
Not yet as I don't think it's at it's given SG due to appliances that run off it one in particular a freezer says voltage is 23.4 when no solar is coming in and drops to 23.1 by morning when running and when not it says 24.2. Not hard data but it's enough to know this freezer cuts out at 22V and to drop that far on 2010AH battery when it's 20 degrees outside, doesn't sound like battery is awake yet or it's too far gone. The SG is supposed to be 1.29 for it.As long as you keep the electrolyte above the plates, your risk is very very low.
Find the datasheet for that battery and target the SG specified. Tedious, but at some point, you have check all 12 cell.![]()
Yeah it wasn't fully charged, it was at 35 something volts when I got it and didn't have a way to get it online to charge then death in the family had me on other side of the country so it sat the whole almost two months at 35V. I will keep trying, I think I need a more powerful charger to wake it up, this isn't working.As you can see in that chart I linked earlier, at -30°F, the capacity of your battery is probably around 25% of rated, so 500Ah. While sitting discharged is bad, the cold actually mitigates it somewhat by slowing down the sulfation process. If your battery was in good shape and fully charged no more than 6 months ago, it's probably recoverable provided you keep it as fully charged as possible (daily) and run an equalization as soon as it gets to be more reasonable weather.
Yeah it wasn't fully charged, it was at 35 something volts when I got it and didn't have a way to get it online to charge then death in the family had me on other side of the country so it sat the whole almost two months at 35V. I will keep trying, I think I need a more powerful charger to wake it up, this isn't working.