Victron. Want to hire an expert. Around SE.

They are rated 90-260 volts 50 or 60 hz or 90_380 DC

Scored these at a ship auction, labeled as DC only, fot $25.00 each....continous duty 24 volt 100 amps but they are uninersal input

Real model number Skylla 24-100 universal input

Tecnodave said:

Scored these at a ship auction, labeled as DC only, fot $25.00 each....continous duty 24 volt 100 amps but they are uninersal input

Real model number Skylla 24-100 universal input

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Perhaps a new thread would be in order.

Not needed, I need a cup of peets sumatra

Just noticed the multiplus transfer switch is rated for 50 amps and it looks like 10/2 romex between the jbox and the inverters.
It should be 8 awg or the master breakers need to be swapped for 30 amp models, another fire hazzard.

The very first picture shows the multiplus is in charger only mode.
Ok, I'm off to the LCBO.?

smoothJoey said:

Just noticed the multiplus transfer switch is rated for 50 amps and it looks like 10/2 romex between the jbox and the inverters.
It should be 8 awg or the master breakers need to be swapped for 30 amp models, another fire hazzard.

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comeon smooth joey.......10/2 Romex is rated 30 amps intermittent duty.....under 2 hours max....24 amps continuous duty

Lets try 6/2/G Romex minimum, 55 amps intermittent duty, 44 amps continous duty at a minimum

Under the NEC any device operated more than 2.0 hours maximum must be derated by 20 % for “continuous duty”

Tecnodave said:

comeon smooth joey.......10/2 Romex is rated 30 amps intermittent duty.....under 2 hours max....24 amps continuous duty

Lets try 6/2/G Romex minimum, 55 amps intermittent duty, 44 amps continous duty at a minimum

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I stand corrected.
The other inverter is in charge only mode too.
Gonna stop by the green merchant which is conveniently located adjacent the LCBO.

Fair enough..

rmaddy said:

It's clear that the people that did your electrical system don't care at all about doing quality work.

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You may have noted my venom in the past against dealer installations. Most dealers don’t know what quality work is in regards to solar, never mind electrical in general. They only know profit centers.

12VoltInstalls said:

You may have noted my venom in the past against dealer installations. Most dealers don’t know what quality work is in regards to solar, never mind electrical in general. They only know profit centers.

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Unfortunately this includes many more people than dealers....

I don't think I could ever be a professional installer. I care too much. I'm slow and methodical. I'm not sure I would ever make enough money to leave my job at McDonalds.

HRTKD said:

I don't think I could ever be a professional installer. I care too much. I'm slow and methodical. I'm not sure I would ever make enough money to leave my job at McDonalds.

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Im way too experienced to cut corners.....if something were to happen any lawyer would have a field day with my experience in electrical.....and I dam sure dont want someone to die becuase I cut a corner......
1st license Federal 1st phone, march,’64, State of Alaska electrical contractor ‘65 career in engineering, long since retired....just playin now, but still doing 100 h.p farm pumps, 480 volt 66 amps/leg 3 phase, money does not mean that much to me anymore.

vdub said:

I'm late to the game on this thread, but WOW, you will have one serious system when all is said and done.


The quote above was from someone way back on the first page. Unfortunately, that is true of the entire stinking RV industry. Crappy, shoddy, patched up, piss poor workmanship. They totally don't care. Once they get your check, the salesman disappears and the service guys are buried multiple levels deep in a never ending voice mail black hole. The whole industry should be ashamed of the product they put out.

That having been said, working on an RV is a bitch -- tight cramped small spaces to work in. Wires are strung everywhere with little or no documentation. And, if you think the install is a rat's nest of wires, you should have a look at the wires strung through the RV.

I will say that you bought really great equipment and once you have it working, you will have something to be proud of. Good Luck!!

BTW, 3 months ago, I bought a 2022 Thor Magnitude SV34. I absolutely love the F-550 diesel 4x4 chassis that it's build on. But, the shell and RV part leaves a little to be desired. Eventually, I'll get all the sawdust, loose screws, misaligned cabinets, broken drawers, and such fixed and I'll have a good rig. VW

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This is my first RV, and we looked for five months nonstop.
It came down to your choice and the Nexus.
Nexus had a few things I wanted but could not find on one at a dealer, so I ordered it.
I have already learned if I can fix it the he** with going to the dealer and so far I have fixed a few stupid things, sink leaked, shower leaked, curtain rod in bedroom broke, to be expected if you buy a $10,000 one or a 2 million dollar one.
I can fix anything that goes wrong except, electrical but im learning and have been studying as much as possible. (A forced learn)
Bottom line, I love the rv, and every time I comment, I could live in it; the wife waves bye to me. Lol

I'm still wondering who said you didn't need an ATS when you have an on-board generator?

I'm guessing you also have an inside start button for that generator. Without an ATS, you'd have to some how manually transfer power transmission to or from the generator and the other ac power sources.

I suspect the dealership didn't add that switch due to the solar install. It would have been added as part of a generator package.

If the RV came with an on-board generator, it probably came from the factory with an ATS also.

Barryga said:

Bottom line, I love the rv, and every time I comment, I could live in it; the wife waves bye to me. LoL

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Enjoy your rig, Barry!
I have lived in mine coming up 5 years this summer. The wife too. I think she stays with me because we live in an RV. Lol

Your system has much potential. Especially considering how little solar you have up top.

Panels are about the cheapest part of the whole solar deal. There's plenty of sun between Georgia and Florida. Down the road you might consider installing some fixed arrays to plug into if you find yourself parking in the same spots repeatedly and ownership would allow it.
That system would easily take 10X the solar generation you have now.

CamoGreg said:

I'm still wondering who said you didn't need an ATS when you have an on-board generator?

I'm guessing you also have an inside start button for that generator. Without an ATS, you'd have to some how manually transfer power transmission to or from the generator and the other ac power sources.

I suspect the dealership didn't add that switch due to the solar install. It would have been added as part of a generator package.

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I have never seen a Class C motorhome with a ATS....Not ever...It does not need to be automatic....nor does it need to be a switch. Every one that I have ever seen has a TT-30 power outlet wired to the generator into which the shore power cord is plugged into, cheap , easy, and fully complies with the code to separate the sources so that the generator cannot back feed to the shore power. This is what is done in 90% or more of motorhomes. This does not exclude the possibility of using a manual or automatic transfer switch.

I would expect that if I had a $500,000 dollar Class A motorhome that it might have a automatic transfer switch so in the case that it is raining cats and dogs I would not have to go outside and disconnect the power cord and plug it into the generator outlet, then start the generator, having an automatic transfer switch is a luxury, it is not required. In fact I have seen factory equipped motorhomes that could in fact start the generator and transfer the power automatically when shore power fails, but this is a luxury, not a requirement.

An acquaintance does if fact have a $300,000 dollar Class A motorhome but it does not have an Automatic transfer switch, that is done in the AC/DC breaker and fuse panel with a manual switch, he then needs to go to the generator control panel and manually start the generator, he can remain connected to shore power but it will not back-feed as this requirement is fulfilled in the AC/DC power control panel which also contains the DC battery charger

@Tecnodave

Maybe you have seen them. And I'm not that familiar with Super C motorhomes either.
Out of curiosity, I looked online for specs.

Pasted from their page:

• Floorplan
• Specifications
• Description
• Features
• Factory Brochure

Electrical

• Battery Disconnect
• 2,000 Watt Inverter
• 50 Amp, 12 Volt Distribution Panel
• 60 Amp, 12 Volt Power Converter
• Water Heater By-Pass Kit
• 10 Gal Gas/Electric Hot Water Heater
• 8.0 Onan Diesel Generator w/Auto Start
• Exterior TV Cable Jack
• Generator Auto Transfer Switch
• Exterior Security Light
• Nexair Fan in Living Room
• 2 Deep Cycle Coach Batteries 12 Volt
• Surge Protector (hard wired)

Yes, its a factory switch in my control panel
and I can turn it on outside guess most would be this way?

Ok, step 1, I have six 206 amp lithium batteries to the fuse block.
I have looked and can't find a drawing of how it should be set up with separate busbars and wired from there to the one fuse or two?
Can anyone point me in the right direction for a picture of the proper way?
I assume I need to connect three batteries to a buse bar

Go to the forum page linked below. Then hit the download button. The Wiring Unlimited document has examples of how to wire multiple batteries in parallel, with diagrams.

If I didn’t have job commitments I’d say buy me the gas I’ll be there tomorrow with tools.
It’s 10*F and I want to go somewhere warm

Only getting to 60 today; here, 43 now; this is a nasty week.
I moved to Ga from FL in 85, and I live 65 miles north of Atlanta airport, and my plant is 83 miles north of my house; it's about a 5 to 10-degree difference colder at the plant.
This is the coldest winter I can remember.

Barryga said:

Ok, step 1, I have six 206 amp lithium batteries to the fuse block.
I have looked and can't find a drawing of how it should be set up with separate busbars and wired from there to the one fuse or two?
Can anyone point me in the right direction for a picture of the proper way?
I assume I need to connect three batteries to a buse bar

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Are you really going to start without an overall plan?
That generally ends badly.