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JK 4S 200A BMS

upnorthandpersonal said:
I actually tested this. With a class-T fuse in each bank, I shorted the output of 2 paralleled 48V packs, each with a 100A JK BMS. Multiple times. Cost me a lot of money in Class T fuses (maybe this explains the current shortage) ;)
Both BMS are still running without issues today.
Click to expand...
Hi!
Still reading as much as I can on Fast Acting Class T fuses as I'm about to start building my first LiFePo4 battery (24v, 280ah cells).
Could you please point me to the fuses and fuse holders that you're using (with success ) in your setup?
Or are they really created equally, unlike most electronics?

Thanks in advance.
 
Alltron said:
I don't think Nami will respond as Hankzor apparently have a policy of not providing service to anyone who has a problem and complains about it. Go figure. I think they think that not providing service to people who have issues with their products is going to help their business but I don't think they realize people get angry and upset and will never buy another product from them regardless of how great they may sound. Bad news travels faster that the other.

I a company cannot even honour a 12month warranty on a 30 day old product then there is something fundamentaly wrong with them and why would anyone want to buy their products??!!!!
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Damm...
I was about to buy JK for BMSs!!
@Nami , is this after sales scenario true?

Regards
 
Is there any possiblity to restore the password? unfortunately I have changed my password, but now it doesn´t regcognize it anymore.
The support of jkbms.com is dead and my seller on alibaba is also helpless
 
Darn. I was about to purchase these JK BMSs.

Is everyone still having issues and no contact/help from them or any of their reps?

@Nami logs in frequently but hasn’t replied to any threats since Aug 26.

Which one to use now. 12v 4s 280ah 150-200ap?
 
I still have not heard from them !!

I have been experimenting over the last month and have found that using a normal JBD bms and hooking up a Heltec 5A active balancer is not only cheaper but works soooo much better than JK !! I had a pack with a JK and it would never ever actually balance or get close but after installing the Heltec and giving it a few days the pack is now balanced and stays balanced ! The JK could not even come close to it in performance!!

I have give up on JK BMS's they are not worth the trouble! I know they sound like they should be good but when you put them to the real test they can't pull their weight anyway let alone the BACKUP SERVICE that DOESN'T EXIST! when they fail!
 
Alltron said:
I still have not heard from them !!

I have been experimenting over the last month and have found that using a normal JBD bms and hooking up a Heltec 5A active balancer is not only cheaper but works soooo much better than JK !! I had a pack with a JK and it would never ever actually balance or get close but after installing the Heltec and giving it a few days the pack is now balanced and stays balanced ! The JK could not even come close to it in performance!!

I have give up on JK BMS's they are not worth the trouble! I know they sound like they should be good but when you put them to the real test they can't pull their weight anyway let alone the BACKUP SERVICE that DOESN'T EXIST! when they fail!
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for your input @Alltron . I'm glad to hear that as I'm about to pull the trigger on 2x JBD 12v 4s 200amps with Heat port. Just not sure to get from the Chna slow boat or pay 2x and get from US. Though I can't really find the 200amp versions in US.

I'll def have to check out the Heltec Balancers!

If I got the Active Balancers then I theoretically could just use them to Top Balance my new grade A EVE 280ahs right? Or would I still be better off with an inexpensive bench top or the appropriate charger.
Guess it would be good to have a little bench power supply around regardless.

Thx!
 
Gette said:
Darn. I was about to purchase these JK BMSs.

Is everyone still having issues and no contact/help from them or any of their reps?

@Nami logs in frequently but hasn’t replied to any threats since Aug 26.

Which one to use now. 12v 4s 280ah 150-200ap?
Click to expand...
I've got a couple of JK BMSs. The first one I got back when they were all the buzz here, and it is still a great BMS. After using a few JBD BMSs, the JK took a bit of getting used to, but I really liked it. The app is much better than the JBD, and the active balancing is game-changing.

I had to wait to buy the second one while they were revising the design to add heating. I finally got it, but when I hooked it up to my 8S 230Ah battery with my Schneider Inverter/Charger and SCC, there was some strange sounds coming from the Inverter/Charger during solar charging. It was kind of a hissing sound, a little like something arcing. I was afraid it was going to burn something out in my Schneider equipment, so I fell back to my JBD BMS that had been operational for a few months with no issue. I tried again later and made sure I could pin-point it to the BMS.

I found someone else here posted the same issue (Sorry, I can't find it now). I tagged @Nami a couple of times, but he/she has never replied. I'm trying not to judge JK/Hankzor, but I've personally made the decision not to buy any more of the JK BMSs until I hear more information.

It is pretty sad for me, as I really thought that the JK was the BMS at the top of the list. Now.... I'm not so sure. The fact that I'm now seeing no one able to get any customer service pretty much seals it.
 
Horsefly said:
I've got a couple of JK BMSs. The first one I got back when they were all the buzz here, and it is still a great BMS. After using a few JBD BMSs, the JK took a bit of getting used to, but I really liked it. The app is much better than the JBD, and the active balancing is game-changing.

I had to wait to buy the second one while they were revising the design to add heating. I finally got it, but when I hooked it up to my 8S 230Ah battery with my Schneider Inverter/Charger and SCC, there was some strange sounds coming from the Inverter/Charger during solar charging. It was kind of a hissing sound, a little like something arcing. I was afraid it was going to burn something out in my Schneider equipment, so I fell back to my JBD BMS that had been operational for a few months with no issue. I tried again later and made sure I could pin-point it to the BMS.

I found someone else here posted the same issue (Sorry, I can't find it now). I tagged @Nami a couple of times, but he/she has never replied. I'm trying not to judge JK/Hankzor, but I've personally made the decision not to buy any more of the JK BMSs until I hear more information.

It is pretty sad for me, as I really thought that the JK was the BMS at the top of the list. Now.... I'm not so sure. The fact that I'm now seeing no one able to get any customer service pretty much seals it.
Click to expand...

Yes they are expensive mistakes. I think people can get caught up in the hype without doing due research and backup support is important. Maybe JK/Hankzor may have had good backup service in times past but I think they have lost the plot now thats for sure.
 
Very unfortunate as I have one on the way and wanted to give it a try to see if this is something to use in both setups. But guess I will be researching some more and find something that holds up one day.
 
Thank you so much for your input @Horsefly , @Alltron , and @tim0shel.
Shame about JK because they seemed to be heading in a good direction as far as adding functionality and their built-in active balancers.

I am buying JBDs newer version with heat. Connected-Current and OverKillSolar support them and have a lot of helpful docs, tips and setup info.

I am going to try the JBD with adding Heltec 5A active balancers like @Alltron has had success with (check a few posts back).
 
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Could lack of JK response have anything to do with China still having COVID lockdowns?
 
rhino said:
Could lack of JK response have anything to do with China still having COVID lockdowns?
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Doubt it. As the main contact on here that I saw for JK has been @Nami. Apparently logs on all here all the time (last night even) yet hasn't responded to anything since Aug 25th. And there are a lot of threads and posts with issues and asking for help.

Same with reports of users contacting the reseller and even then manufacturer direct.

Sounds like nothing but crickets unfortunately.

Enough for me to cross that off the list. lol
 
Yes they have certainly done themselves a dis-service by not addressing problems to start with! It all started with a faulty BMS and not getting a timely response then unfavourable things are said and then they use that as an excuse to say they are not going to give service to people who complain which then makes more people upset and bag them out even more. I don't know how many sales they are loosing now but surely its alot more than if they had of done the right thing to start with! Lucky for me it forced me to find another solution which has ended up being cheaper and way better which I would not have investigated if it wasn't for their poor service! Thanks Nami/Hankzor
 
Gette said:
Thank you so much for your input @Horsefly , @Alltron , and @tim0shel.
Shame about JK because they seemed to be heading in a good direction as far as adding functionality and their built-in active balancers.

I am buying JBDs newer version with heat. Connected-Current and OverKillSolar support them and have a lot of helpful docs, tips and setup info.

I am going to try the JDM with adding Heltec 5A active balancers like @Alltron has had success with (check a few posts back).
Click to expand...
I'm also going to try the JDM route which I will have the JK incoming but I need two BMS's anyways so guess I will try both. I think the one think I was liking on the JK was option for the screen. I like having this for my systems are portable ish and having that display on the outside helps with the stats.
 
tim0shel said:
I'm also going to try the JDM route which I will have the JK incoming but I need two BMS's anyways so guess I will try both. I think the one think I was liking on the JK was option for the screen. I like having this for my systems are portable ish and having that display on the outside helps with the stats.
Click to expand...
The JBD does have a screen option as well (at least some of their models do).
Has optional BT, Screen (UART or rs485 versions available) and Rs485 module.

BUT I don't think you can use them all. lol
In my case I don't think I can use the screen. As I will use the BT (which connects to UART port), and the rs485 port going to Victron VenusOS (CerboGX, Venus or Rasp Pi). LCD screen is available for the UART port or the rs485 port (different screen for different port).

JIABAIDA-Accessories-Bluetooth-Module-UART-RS485-LCD-Displayer-For-Lithium-Battery-Smart-BMS-3S-20S-With.jpg_Q90.jpg_.webp
 
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Alltron said:
I still have not heard from them !!

I have been experimenting over the last month and have found that using a normal JBD bms and hooking up a Heltec 5A active balancer is not only cheaper but works soooo much better than JK !! I had a pack with a JK and it would never ever actually balance or get close but after installing the Heltec and giving it a few days the pack is now balanced and stays balanced ! The JK could not even come close to it in performance!!

I have give up on JK BMS's they are not worth the trouble! I know they sound like they should be good but when you put them to the real test they can't pull their weight anyway let alone the BACKUP SERVICE that DOESN'T EXIST! when they fail!
Click to expand...

@Alltron I am planning a similar setup with JBD and the Heltec and was hoping to pick you brain.
But I posted in a more related thread as to not hijack this one and possible help others by making it easy to find and comment on.
If/when you get a moment if you can take a peak as I am interested in your testing and settings.

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/active-balancer-ok-to-use-with-bms.46573/

Thank you!
 
I was just getting ready to order two of the B2A8S20P from Hankzor store. They were in my cart ready to go, decided to do some reading first and found these threads. Between this one and a few others with a buzzing sound on the inverters time to sit back and see how things go. Guess I will start looking into the JBD 4s 200a BMS-SP04S034 for the time being.
 
rickst29 said:
The 5-wire "main cord" is shown as a switched grounding connection in Nami's previous diagrams.

If heating pad current will be below 3A, and total power also below the limit on an 8S "25.8V" battery pack, the heating pad "ground" can be wired directly to the bundled 'main cord' of green wires. The black and red wires ARE NOT currently used at all: They are only present on the connector for a possible future power supply, to be designed JK. The heating pad "hot" connection, and any heating pad switch, should be left enabled at all times. The JK will enable the "main cord" grounding connection whenever the detected battery pack temperature has fallen below the 'minimum charging voltage' temperature setting of the BMS.
In my upcoming test configuration, using a single 4S battery of adequate size, I will be testing two ways. First, with a single "12v" heater pad connected directly from the +12v bus to this grounding cord. That test will run at slightly over 2A.

Then I will re-wire, using this switched grounding connection as the "coil" ground of a normally off (NO) automotive-type mechanical Relay. This Relay will have a "12V" coil (matching my 4S battery pack), although automotive-type Relays with "24V" coil voltage are readily available as well. An 8S "24v" battery pack would use one of those instead. In this configuration, the Relay "Load" terminals interrupt the permanently connected "hot" wire, which is driving two parallel heating pads @ 2A each, 4A total current. (The pads are permanently connected to the main grounding bus, outside of the BMS.) Use of the Relay supports higher current to the pads, through the Relay's "load" terminals, while using hardly any current at all to activate the coil. In my production configuration, I will have 3 heater pads.

Will your heater pad consume more than 3A? And, was this "verbal diagram" sufficient for you?
Click to expand...
For me a picture is worth a 1000 words.... was one ever produced (to connect a heating pad)
 
Paul.Barrette said:
For me a picture is worth a 1000 words.... was one ever produced (to connect a heating pad)
Click to expand...
Hi. I'm happy to add more words, but a photo of my setup would be impossible to understand (including dozens of irrelevant wires doing other things). My THREE heater pads run around 2.4A each (varying according to supply voltage). With just one of those heater pads, the pad "-" could connect directly to the JK multi-wire heater interface cord, with "+" permanently connected to the "12v" bus (or optionally connected through a switch as well).

In my own "12v" case the current through all 3 pads is too much for the JK interface (about 70W maximum at high voltage, it's also limited to 3.0 Amps as an absolute maximum current value). Only the the coil "-" is connected to the JK interface. (This is the automotive coil, "Bosch" type also sometimes listed as 'JL9214', I left the 5th pin unconnected.) The RELAY COIL draws only a tiny bit of current through the JK interface when JK-BMS enables that ground connection internally. "Coil +" is connected the 12v supply, in my case through a separate enabling switch (a very small one).

On the Relay switched power circuit connections, one side gets +12v from the main power bus (in my own case, with multiple batteries attached). the other side goes through a 4-way connector to reach the 3 "+" power terminals on the heater pads. (A wiring nut is adequate, although I nvere use those for so many wires within my vibrating travel trailer.)

From a later message in the Thread, you will see that the BMS passed the "single heater pad" test with no issues at all (A+). Following subsequent instllation into my travel trailer, the JK-BMS has also controlled the Relay circuit (and all 3 heater pads) PERFECTLY in a chiller induced test. That resulted in about 100 watts of total power through the heater pads.
 
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rickst29 said:
Hi. I'm happy to add more words, but a photo of my setup would be impossible to understand (including dozens of irrelevant wires doing other things). My THREE heater pads run around 2.4A each (varying according to supply voltage). With just one of those heater pads, the pad "-" could connect directly to the JK multi-wire heater interface cord, with "+" permanently connected to the "12v" bus (or optionally connected through a switch as well).

In my own "12v" case the current through all 3 pads is too much for the JK interface (about 70W maximum at high voltage, it's also limited to 3.0 Amps as an absolute maximum current value). Only the the coil "-" is connected to the JK interface. (This is the automotive coil, "Bosch" type also sometimes listed as 'JL9214', I left the 5th pin unconnected.) The RELAY COIL draws only a tiny bit of current through the JK interface when JK-BMS enables that ground connection internally. "Coil +" is connected the 12v supply, in my case through a separate enabling switch (a very small one).

On the Relay switched power circuit connections, one side gets +12v from the main power bus (in my own case, with multiple batteries attached). the other side goes through a 4-way connector to reach the 3 "+" power terminals on the heater pads. (A wiring nut is adequate, although I nvere use those for so many wires within my vibrating travel trailer.)

From a later message in the Thread, you will see that the BMS passed the "single heater pad" test with no issues at all (A+). Following subsequent instllation into my travel trailer, the JK-BMS has also controlled the Relay circuit (and all 3 heater pads) PERFECTLY in a chiller induced test. That resulted in about 100 watts of total power through the heater pads.
Click to expand...
Do you absolutely need a relay or you can wire the heater pad (that has the right amperage and voltage ratting) DIRECTLY to the JK without a relay? I think I am reading that I do not need one
 
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Paul.Barrette said:
Do you absolutely need a relay or you can wire the heater pad (that has the right amperage and voltage ratting) DIRECTLY to the JK without a relay? I think I am reading that I do not need one
Click to expand...
If less than 3A (AND total watts below 70w in the case of a high-voltage heater connection with low amperage), you can connect direct. That test passed with flying colors.
 
rickst29 said:
If less than 3A (AND total watts below 70w in the case of a high-voltage heater connection with low amperage), you can connect direct. That test passed with flying colors.
Click to expand...

Alkaline said:
3A is not enough, should be upped to 10A.
Click to expand...
Bah! I think it is more than enough. If your battery is in an isolated environment (insulated box)... that is more than enough to keep it over freezing using very little power. My opinion and real life experience
 
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