diy solar

diy solar

JK 4S 200A BMS

Horsefly said:
My heating system uses a bit over 1A and keeps my 8S 230Ah battery between 50°F and 60°F when the ambient temperature is below freezing. Oh, and it only stays on for about 3-4 hours per 24 hour day.
Click to expand...
Agreed... that is what I am seing also.... about 100 watts of heating per day
 
Gette said:
The JBD does have a screen option as well (at least some of their models do).
Has optional BT, Screen (UART or rs485 versions available) and Rs485 module.

BUT I don't think you can't use them all. lol
In my case I don't think I can use the screen. As I will use the BT (which connects to UART port), and the rs485 port going to Victron VenusOS (CerboGX, Venus or Rasp Pi). LCD screen is available for the UART port or the rs485 port (different screen for different port).

JIABAIDA-Accessories-Bluetooth-Module-UART-RS485-LCD-Displayer-For-Lithium-Battery-Smart-BMS-3S-20S-With.jpg_Q90.jpg_.webp
Click to expand...
I could not get the RS485 display to work
I think i got a unit that was mislabeled.
I put a scope on data lines and looks like RS232
2.5v swing
 
rickst29 said:
Hi. I'm happy to add more words, but a photo of my setup would be impossible to understand (including dozens of irrelevant wires doing other things). My THREE heater pads run around 2.4A each (varying according to supply voltage). With just one of those heater pads, the pad "-" could connect directly to the JK multi-wire heater interface cord, with "+" permanently connected to the "12v" bus (or optionally connected through a switch as well).

In my own "12v" case the current through all 3 pads is too much for the JK interface (about 70W maximum at high voltage, it's also limited to 3.0 Amps as an absolute maximum current value). Only the the coil "-" is connected to the JK interface. (This is the automotive coil, "Bosch" type also sometimes listed as 'JL9214', I left the 5th pin unconnected.) The RELAY COIL draws only a tiny bit of current through the JK interface when JK-BMS enables that ground connection internally. "Coil +" is connected the 12v supply, in my case through a separate enabling switch (a very small one).

On the Relay switched power circuit connections, one side gets +12v from the main power bus (in my own case, with multiple batteries attached). the other side goes through a 4-way connector to reach the 3 "+" power terminals on the heater pads. (A wiring nut is adequate, although I nvere use those for so many wires within my vibrating travel trailer.)

From a later message in the Thread, you will see that the BMS passed the "single heater pad" test with no issues at all (A+). Following subsequent instllation into my travel trailer, the JK-BMS has also controlled the Relay circuit (and all 3 heater pads) PERFECTLY in a chiller induced test. That resulted in about 100 watts of total power through the heater pads.
Click to expand...

I remember your tests, and I understand quite clearly your description, as I have used this arrangement for other purposes in the past, but... I'm not understanding JK's instructions on the heating pad! :(

I've just received a brand new JK-B2A8S20P-H

AliExpress instructions:

1667256641506.png

Provided cable
1667256717113.png


Provided Instructions

1667256768043.png


Would you please help me making some sense out of this?
I don't think @Steve_S has this model in his powerhouse... right? :unsure:

Thanks in advance!
 
The individual red and black wires do not serve a purpose in heating use, and should not be stripped or connected to anything at this time. They may be usable with an un-released "smart charger" product in the future. Connect only the green bundle (as "ground for the heater pad, or "coil -" for a switching power relay).

The picture is good, with you taking note that the "heavy black" connection P2 to the heating pad is the green bundle of the interface cord.
 
Last edited:
SolaroSsaurius said:
I remember your tests, and I understand quite clearly your description, as I have used this arrangement for other purposes in the past, but... I'm not understanding JK's instructions on the heating pad! :(

I've just received a brand new JK-B2A8S20P-H

AliExpress instructions:
..
Provided cable
..
Provided Instructions
..
Would you please help me making some sense out of this?
I don't think @Steve_S has this model in his powerhouse... right? :unsure:

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
I do not use the Heater Capable Models, my Powerhouse is heated to 50F as it also contains my 50 gallon water pressure tank and well head on the other half of the building.
 
rickst29 said:
The individual red and black wires do not serve a purpose in heating use, and should not be stripped or connected to anything at this time. They may be usable with an un-released "smart charger" product in the future. Connect only the green bundle (as "ground for the heater pad, or "coil -" for a switching power relay).

The picture is good, with you taking note that the "heavy black" connection P2 to the heating pad is the green bundle of the interface cord.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot!!
Totally understood!
It's incredible how included instructions don't pair up with the product , not even the marketing material... it's only good people like you and the ones in the forum that make all this work.
Again, thanks!
 
rickst29 said:
I am uncertain whether the output CURRENT and POWER limits (which have already been documented for this interface interface), can be protected from an over-current configuration by the BMS itself. To create such a test (for slightly more than 3.0A), I can a 2nd resistor in parallel with this heater pad. I will await confirmation from Nami (regarding the presence "3A" over-current protection within the BMS itself) before doing that.
Click to expand...
Have you meanwhile received confirmation from Nami or otherwise regarding the presence of "3A" over-current protection within the BMS itself).
Knowing this reliably would be very helpful for me, as I am just about to build such a system.
 
Hilmar said:
Have you meanwhile received confirmation from Nami or otherwise regarding the presence of "3A" over-current protection within the BMS itself).
Knowing this reliably would be very helpful for me, as I am just about to build such a system.
Click to expand...
I was strongly encouraged to use my relay-based configuration instead. If you fry the internal circuit, it apparently can't be fixed.
 
rickst29 said:
I was strongly encouraged to use my relay-based configuration instead. If you fry the internal circuit, it apparently can't be fixed.
Click to expand...
It also does not have very good programming logic. It only turns on heat when the BMS turns off charging and vise versa. I would rather see it come on just a bit before low temp cutoff so that the charging does not cut off. I would also take the power from the charge source rather than the battery so that you are only producing heat when you have the power to do so AND the need. If you do not have a charge source available, you do not need to heat the battery because it can be discharged down to -20ºC but cannot be charged below 0ºC.
 
rickst29 said:
I was strongly encouraged to use my relay-based configuration instead. If you fry the internal circuit, it apparently can't be fixed.
Click to expand...
This means that there is no 3A over-current protection within the BMS itself.
Do I get that right?
 
Hilmar said:
This means that there is no 3A over-current protection within the BMS itself.
Do I get that right?
Click to expand...
I think that is correct. Your heater pad configuration (if used directly) not exceed the 70w nor 3A limits. If you use an automotive relay to control the heater pads, as I do, then the load on on the BMS heater control circuit is only the relay coil - virtually nothing at all.
 
Hey all - does anyone have the JK BMS app APK that was functional on at least Android 9 that they could provide me?

I am primarily an iPhone user and have only a few older Android devices for a few simple tasks, but my newest device is still running Android 9.

Long story short I want to factory reset my JK 200A BMS as I'm having continued problems with the unit not wanting to calibrate itself correctly so far as SOC display. So I'm going to try a full factory reset. I see the factory reset procedure was mentioned earlier in this thread, however, it seems like only the Android version of the app has the "Factory reset" option, and the iPhone versions of the app do not.

But the latest and greatest version of the App in the Google Play Store refuses to install on Android 9.
 
Wow 19 pages, I need this BMS to replace and older 100 amp. Who is a good source for a genuine JK 4S 200 amp
 
Last edited:
pau1phi11ips said:
Does anyone know where to get the cable that connects to the heater port? There wasn't one in the box and can't find it on AliExpress.
Click to expand...
The suffix 'H' on BMS represents the built-in heating chip, and BMS will also be equipped with free heating cables,
If it is a standard BMS, the heating function is not supported.
 
Nami said:
The suffix 'H' on BMS represents the built-in heating chip, and BMS will also be equipped with free heating cables,
If it is a standard BMS, the heating function is not supported.
Click to expand...
It states it has the heater function on the specs but I'll check the part code. Thanks!
 
pau1phi11ips said:
Does anyone know where to get the cable that connects to the heater port? There wasn't one in the box and can't find it on AliExpress.
Click to expand...
I have the same issue, ordered the H-version of the JK-BMS but the cable for the heater port was not included. I've been chatting with the supplier about it without any success so far, so I'm also trying to find a place where I can buy the cable.
 
Mcfille said:
I have the same issue, ordered the H-version of the JK-BMS but the cable for the heater port was not included. I've been chatting with the supplier about it without any success so far, so I'm also trying to find a place where I can buy the cable.
Click to expand...

You don't have the heater port or just the cable? My BMS definitely has the socket attached but I think I've been sold the version with the heater circuit.

I've found the cable, it's a JST - GH 1.25mm 7 pin Plug. I've ordered a connector off eBay and will give it a go with my BMS anyway
www.ebay.co.uk

GH 1.25mm Plug + Crimps 2-12p Crimp Connector B2W (JST GH Style) | eBay

Compatible with JST GH series connectors. GH Series Crimp Connectors. GH-125 connectors are a series of board-to-wire crimp connectors. Crimp MaterialPhosphor bronze, Tin (plating). Other Crimp Connectors.
www.ebay.co.uk
 
I currently have a 4S 12v setup using the JBD SP04S028 as my BMS. I am planning on building two more of the exact same battery pack with the same BMS and would parallel the 3 battery packs. So i would be a 4S3P setup with a total capacity of 840ah, with each pack having its own BMS. From the spec sheet I should be able to do this as long as the 3 packs are at the same SOC / similar voltages?

Anyone done this? Any concerns or issues? Would you recommend a different setup? Thanks in advance!
 
McDavid403 said:
I currently have a 4S 12v setup using the JBD SP04S028 as my BMS. I am planning on building two more of the exact same battery pack with the same BMS and would parallel the 3 battery packs. So i would be a 4S3P setup with a total capacity of 840ah, with each pack having its own BMS. From the spec sheet I should be able to do this as long as the 3 packs are at the same SOC / similar voltages?

Anyone done this? Any concerns or issues? Would you recommend a different setup? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
I have a 4s2p working this way and it works good.
Should also work with 4s3p.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
Single JK BMS Active Balance two 4S Packs
Replies
0
Views
297
fastknight
F
V
Best 12v BMS
Replies
11
Views
720
Rednecktek
Rednecktek
S
SEPLOS MASON 3.0 BMS (2A) VS JK INV BMS 200A WITH 2A
Replies
2
Views
843
a619
a619
K
JK bms edge socket type ?
Replies
9
Views
606
kdiver58
K
Scoob
SOLD: JK BMS 12-24 200 amp
Replies
0
Views
288
Scoob
Scoob

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top