So I must have lucked into wiring my 4 correctly? 50% chance. Makes no sense at all, 240v is 240v.
No, you were not losing your mind. I think the thread got confused and . . .
I don't know why you're so focused on correcting me rather than looking at what I'm talking about. Are you defending this 120v L14-30P pinout?
The pinning is exactly the same as a 240->120 EVSE gender bender plug adapter.
It doesn't use neutral, so if you want to run 120v you need to tie the 120 volts to L1/L2. Oddly enough Most of the 240v EVSE's are NEMA 14-50, but are happy to allow 120v charging, you just have to make the exact same pin to pin as the chargeverter to get the power on the L1/L2 pins of the 14-50 plug, and your power/wattage is of course halved.
The picture is showing how you would bastardize wire an L14-30 socket
which is for a 240v split phase connection, to a 120v feed that would work with the Chargeverter. The Chargeverter like an EVSE is dirt simple. I would use an EVSE gender bender adaptor for occasional use, or replace the pigtail end for a permanent 120v install.
Hi All, My Chargeverter is run through an Intermatic 240v timer... *polarity matters*... one way, the unit will not deliver power...
so if you're doing something similar, and the readout shows 0A, try reversing the brown & blue...
This comment was concerning. Something must be seriously missing here as well. As Tim states, and B-Mod chimes in, AC has no polarity. If you want to get happy this is TRIVIAL to test without blowing yourself up! Grab a 110v 3 wire extension cord and a power strip. Cut the socket off the extension cord, and strip back the wires connect the ground firmly to the hooked prong with a clip, or electrical tape, next firmly attach each of the other two wires to the adjacent hooked prong (Not the smaller one opposite the ground). Now plug it into a power strip and turn the power strip on. The chargeverter will light up. Now turn it off and swap the two hot wires, leave the ground alone. Plug it in, hit the switch the chargeverter will light up.
You could take it one step farther and set the settings very low and charge a battery for a few seconds. This thing is about the same as an old car charger with a rotary switch for current and 6v/12v switch for voltage just with a little more adjustment and a fancier display. You really don't need to overthink it, but the confusion is they are giving you a non-standard wiring method to feed 120v to it via a 240v socket because the unit is fairly agnostic when it comes to voltage. It works fine with anything up to about 250v.
If you think your chargeverter only works when you have the 'Polarity' correct with 240v and you swapped the L1/L2 at a timer and it started working, then I would re-check EVERYTHING, because something was definitely not wired the way you thought. In order for the CV to work plugged into an L14-30 socket, you will need to read the desired voltage between the L1/L2 holes in the socket. Period. That should be the holes adjacent / on either side of the hooked ground pin. Trivial to test with a meter, in fact you'd be remiss if you did not.
That is not the NEMA L14-30 I know. More like this:
G - Ground
L - L1
N - L2
not used - Neutral.
Have you put a meter to it? Would seem L1 to Neutral should give 120v
Your not supposed to really wire an L14-30 socket for 120v this way because it's effing confusing, and your statement is even more confusing because your are not clear. This is the way an EVSE adapter would be wired, but your last line says "
L1 (2nd Column) to not used - (Neutral 2n column) should give 120v." L-N = 120v L1-L2 on the socket = 120v Neutral on the socket is not used, but that is NOT the NEMA L14-30 I know. Standard is:
Line - Socket
G - Ground (hooked
L1 - L1
L2 - L2
N - N
So L1-N = 120v, L2-N - 120v, L1-L2 = 240v
A 120v RV pigtail will generally pull L1 and N to get 120v, but there is no "standard" for only picking up 120v from a 240v split phase socket.