Zapper77
Renaissance Man
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- Jul 23, 2022
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I figured it was a combination of low voltage and long distance.
You should inspect all of the DC connections for heat when you are running the dryer. Maybe a connection is loose.
EG4 6000XP Released, ordered. Let's Go!
- Thread starter solarenvy
- Start date
You should inspect all of the DC connections for heat when you are running the dryer. Maybe a connection is loose.
AZ Solar Junkie
Maricopa, AZ
Yeah checked them all and they are all normal and consistent (~79 F). Even after bumping the discharge current back to the default value of 125ADC, I haven't managed to repeat that one-time event. When I start and stop the dryer or see the load spike when the heating element switches on during the cycle, everything is functioning normally - the most battery discharge current I can measure is about 118 amps @~53 volts which only lasts a second or two before the unit switches to bypass with no more issues with tripping the battery breaker. Even starting the dryer with the heat and other options maxed out doesn't cause me any issues anymore. Hopefully that one-time event remains a one-time event, because trying everything I can think of I just have not been able to repeat it.
AZ Solar Junkie
Maricopa, AZ
Wow - just did all I could think of to make it fail. I maxed out the loads on the inverter up to ~95% of the capacity, with the solar cut off so the only power it had available was battery and grid. At 95% the inverter was still running purely off the battery power. Then I kicked on the dryer which pulls ~5500 watts. I saw the surge get to over 11,000 watts before it switched to pass-thru from the grid after about 1.5 seconds - all without a glitch in the output and no trip of the battery breaker. I can't seem to break it. Good problem to have 
Zapper77
Renaissance Man
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I've been impressed with the unit.Wow - just did all I could think of to make it fail. I maxed out the loads on the inverter up to ~95% of the capacity, with the solar cut off so the only power it had available was battery and grid. At 95% the inverter was still running purely off the battery power. Then I kicked on the dryer which pulls ~5500 watts. I saw the surge get to over 11,000 watts before it switched to pass-thru from the grid after about 1.5 seconds - all without a glitch in the output and no trip of the battery breaker. I can't seem to break it. Good problem to have
Still waiting for a reply from sales/support to my email, hopefully they are able to get to it soon.
Let's see who wins, just emailed current connected as well, signature solar had a 5 day head start though. Shipping is a bit cheaper with current connected for me too.
Last edited:
SignatureSolarJess
Customer Experience Excellence Ambassador
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- Nov 21, 2022
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- 558
Good morning! I have sales sending you a design form to complete as your email suggests your questions are more appropriate for their department. Once completed, we have an associate that will be reaching out to you to assist with your system
Form completed, thanks.Good morning! I have sales sending you a design form to complete as your email suggests your questions are more appropriate for their department. Once completed, we have an associate that will be reaching out to you to assist with your system
AZ Solar Junkie
Maricopa, AZ
When monitoring the 6000xp with SA, I'm curious as to what it identified as MPPT 3. It never has any current or power, but it does show up with voltages - on mine it ranges from ~380 to ~425 volts. Any ideas what that device might be? In looking at the charts it seems like it roughly is the sum of the voltages of the real MPPT's, but at night when there are no voltages on the real MPPT's, MPPT 3 shows voltages around 420 volts. It's not that important of a question but just curious about this "phantom" device that shows up in SA if anyone has any ideas.
timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
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- 19,670
It could be DC bus voltage.
Zapper77
Renaissance Man
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You can report it to SA and they will remove the data from the reports. Or if you know what it is maybe they can update it to reflect the actual name. I suspect it's the internal bus voltage
Quattrohead
Solar Wizard
Can you align the voltages you are seeing in sa with the voltages that get reported to the inverter portal and look and see what that column is titled.
AZ Solar Junkie
Maricopa, AZ
So far I haven't found any data being reported to the EG4 monitoring portal with numbers that seem to correspond to what SA is identifying as MPPT 3, but I'll keep poking around.
bryansifsof44
New Member
With a 1500W heater load on inverter the Solar output watts is reading 220W (bad solar day in the north) on the inverter screen and app. Without the load it is reading right at 100W. I confirmed with a clamp on ammeter it is reading 85 watts (340v x .25A) with and without load running. Just wandering why my readings are off? I could see the 15W but being 135W off with load running it is giving me higher solar output than actual. I will have to try this test on a better sun day but it has been consistent at these lower Solar output days, load vs no load. I have a small solar array at 1.53KW. This array is basically a test bed, so I could size my permanent array.
I see you have a charge inverter in your list of equipment. Do you charge the batteries with it using grid power to keep your inverters grid/wire free?
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
Yes. I'm configured "off-grid", an automatic transfer switch will throw me back on-grid if the inverter shuts down. The CV is connected to the main grid panel, and I played with it to throw power at the batteries to keep the SOC up overnight for winter TOU peak which is 0500-0900 (and 1700-2100). Then I got another 30KWH of batteries, which made it pointless, besides TOU is 0.07/0.10 in the winter months. Frankly, it's not worth the hassle, so now I would just let it flip when the batteries hit 3%, which hasn't happened in a month. EV charging is really the issue, I have ATS/relays that I can control, and now with a smart EVSE, I've got a daemon running on a control box, that monitors SOC on my batteries and won't let the EVSE light up unless my SOC is within a desired range (dynamic by hour). Since I implemented this, I've not flipped over to the grid.
I have a feed wire from the grid panel to only one of my inverters behind a small breaker. Since it's only on one the inverters do not allow it to be used, but it syncronizes the grid sine wave to the inverter. This is desirable when the inverter kicks off as it eliminates the phase shift on transfer which can be rather abrupt in the summer if the AC is cranking. I'm hoping a firmware upgrade does not eliminate this "feature".
rmassuser
New Member
I am trying to understand the placement of the CCA and the TAP with respect to the inverter. I have all three and I must select an inverter location that allows my shut off button to work properly without running crazy wires everywhere. Also I am confused as to whether the CCA is powered from the inverter or direct from any AC circuit or the big 50A circuit that will be connected to my inverter.
My placement of panels will be on opposite sides of the house, so my understanding is that I must put the TAP in the back yard, on the corner of the house, so it will have line of sight with the 2 different solar arrays for wireless communication with the TS4 units. One array will be 15 feet away going mostly vertical, and the other will be 30 feet away going south with no elevation change.
Also there must be a physical wire between the CCA and the TAP. The distance I need to cover is about 20 feet, so what kind of wire would I need?
Thanks.... I have mostly TS4-A-S units but I will use the TS4-A-O units for the string that is going to get more shading.
My placement of panels will be on opposite sides of the house, so my understanding is that I must put the TAP in the back yard, on the corner of the house, so it will have line of sight with the 2 different solar arrays for wireless communication with the TS4 units. One array will be 15 feet away going mostly vertical, and the other will be 30 feet away going south with no elevation change.
Also there must be a physical wire between the CCA and the TAP. The distance I need to cover is about 20 feet, so what kind of wire would I need?
Thanks.... I have mostly TS4-A-S units but I will use the TS4-A-O units for the string that is going to get more shading.
bryansifsof44
New Member
Got a good sunny cold day for an update. With the Clamp on meter I got 744W (361V x 2.06A) PV, both with and without 1500W heater load.
With no load the app and screen report 794W, while with a 1500 watt load the app was telling me I was producing 863W PV. The app is falsely reporting a higher PV production with a load on it then it is actually producing.
Zapper77
Renaissance Man
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Welcome to winter. On a perfect day I top out at 50% of rated capacity.
Zapper77
Renaissance Man
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2022
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The app only updates once every 5 minutes and I have no idea if that 5 minute update is an average or a snapshot.
AZ Solar Junkie
Maricopa, AZ
Another reason so stick with SA ? - though there are settings you can access with the EG4 app that you can’t with SA.
Well I got my 2 units installed last night, this morning I double checked everything and then fired them up. They seem to be working flawlessly, I just ran a load of laundry through the washer and had zero issues. My LVX6048'S power really gave my washing machine a problem. I had zero dimming of the lights during the wash cycle with the 6000xp's, no problem with turning the microwave on during the cycle, which is on the same breaker as the washer.
I do get a small flicker when the oven kicks on.
LIKES:
the noise level seems to be pretty low, even when I was running 11kw through them. (Dryer, oven, 2 top burners running, plus miscellaneous small loads)
The manual is nicely written and normally sized, 8.5x11 paper size.
DISLIKES:
The screws to take off the front panels are ridiculously tight and very easy to strip, be very careful.
It seems if you have a DIY LifeP04 battery you can't use the lithium battery setting on the inverter, I had to use the lead acid setting because my bms doesn't have a communication port that's compatible. Not a huge problem.
The mounting hardware is lacking, don't drill the holes too deep for the anchors or the bolt wants to disappear in the wall.
One negative about the manual is the parallel directions, they show you how to hook 4 of them, or 1 of them up and that's it. But if you put the parallel cable for 2 of them on like Will Prowse has in his 12k diagram for these units, it works.
I can't say much about the PV input because it is very cloudy here today, but it is working at low light levels.
The units are considerably bigger than the LVX 6048, so if you are replacing them and your install location is tight, you'll have to plan accordingly.
Overall I am very pleased.
I do get a small flicker when the oven kicks on.
LIKES:
the noise level seems to be pretty low, even when I was running 11kw through them. (Dryer, oven, 2 top burners running, plus miscellaneous small loads)
The manual is nicely written and normally sized, 8.5x11 paper size.
DISLIKES:
The screws to take off the front panels are ridiculously tight and very easy to strip, be very careful.
It seems if you have a DIY LifeP04 battery you can't use the lithium battery setting on the inverter, I had to use the lead acid setting because my bms doesn't have a communication port that's compatible. Not a huge problem.
The mounting hardware is lacking, don't drill the holes too deep for the anchors or the bolt wants to disappear in the wall.
One negative about the manual is the parallel directions, they show you how to hook 4 of them, or 1 of them up and that's it. But if you put the parallel cable for 2 of them on like Will Prowse has in his 12k diagram for these units, it works.
I can't say much about the PV input because it is very cloudy here today, but it is working at low light levels.
The units are considerably bigger than the LVX 6048, so if you are replacing them and your install location is tight, you'll have to plan accordingly.
Overall I am very pleased.
Is there a BMS that works with diy batteries and the 6000XP? I have a pallet of batteries for diy packs I will be building and have not bought a BMS yet. I have 3 6000XP's ordered I am going to be using the batteries with.
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