4 Circuit Manual Transfer Switch (Goal Zero, Reliance)

[dmholmes]

Is there a difference between the Goal Zero Home Integration Kit and the Reliance manual transfer switch? It looks to just be rebranded.

 

[MurphyGuy]

Wow.. that's an expensive circuit breaker box..

 

[Bob142]

Is there a difference between the Goal Zero Home Integration Kit and the Reliance manual transfer switch? It looks to just be rebranded.

No difference at all, except that GZ soaks you for a lot more money just to add a 14 AWG extension cord.

I just bought and installed the one you linked to. Works great. alt-electric ships fast too.

 

[dmholmes]

No difference at all, except that GZ soaks you for a lot more money just to add a 14 AWG extension cord.

I just bought and installed the one you linked to. Works great. alt-electric ships fast too.

Thank you!

I didn't mention it but I will be using it with a portable generator and DIY battery/inverter setup. Neither will exceed the 15 amps/1875 watt limit.

But I noticed in a review video (0:30 mark) that the info panel on the box lists the maximum watts at 3750. Do you know why that is?

 

[Bob142]

Thank you!

I didn't mention it but I will be using it with a portable generator and DIY battery/inverter setup. Neither will exceed the 15 amps/1875 watt limit.

But I noticed in a review video (0:30 mark) that the info panel on the box lists the maximum watts at 3750. Do you know why that is?

Yeah that's exactly my use case as well.

The thing limiting the overall unit is the NEMA 5-15 inlet. Inside the box there are two circuits (A & B) that have 10 AWG wires and two (C & D) with 12 AWG wires. Pretty sure that'll handle a lot more juice than what you can pass through the 5-15. I'm certainly not an NEC expert so I don't know if you can up the inlet to a 5-20 or an L5-30 etc. and still be compliant.

Maybe someone like @Supervstech can help on that point.

 

[dmholmes]

Yeah that's exactly my use case as well.

The thing limiting the overall unit is the NEMA 5-15 inlet. Inside the box there are two circuits (A & B) that have 10 AWG wires and two (C & D) with 12 AWG wires. Pretty sure that'll handle a lot more juice than what you can pass through the 5-15. I'm certainly not an NEC expert so I don't know if you can up the inlet to a 5-20 or an L5-30 etc. and still be compliant.

Maybe someone like @Supervstech can help on that point.

Thanks for the follow up. No worries on the limit, I was just curious.

 

[Supervstech]

Yeah that's exactly my use case as well.

The thing limiting the overall unit is the NEMA 5-15 inlet. Inside the box there are two circuits (A & B) that have 10 AWG wires and two (C & D) with 12 AWG wires. Pretty sure that'll handle a lot more juice than what you can pass through the 5-15. I'm certainly not an NEC expert so I don't know if you can up the inlet to a 5-20 or an L5-30 etc. and still be compliant.

Maybe someone like @Supervstech can help on that point.

Correct.
The 5\15 input cord limits what the GZ can send to the switch box.

the breakers are capable of 6000W... the transfer switches must be too weak to flow over 3750W... the transfer wiring is overkill for the 15A breakers, but the panel data plate indicates 30 and 20 amp abilities.

 

[dmholmes]

The thing limiting the overall unit is the NEMA 5-15 inlet. Inside the box there are two circuits (A & B) that have 10 AWG wires and two (C & D) with 12 AWG wires. Pretty sure that'll handle a lot more juice than what you can pass through the 5-15. I'm certainly not an NEC expert so I don't know if you can up the inlet to a 5-20 or an L5-30 etc. and still be compliant.

Do you think it is worth moving up to the Reliance R206A with a 5-15P to L14-20R adapter to get the wattage meter? From the manual it looks like the 240v circuits don't have to be wired.

 

[Bob142]

Do you think it is worth moving up to the Reliance R206A with a 5-15P to L14-20R adapter to get the wattage meter? From the manual it looks like the 240v circuits don't have to be wired.

I'd take a look at the 306A1 model instead. It's cheaper and it has the watt meter, 6 15A breakers, and a 120V L5-30 inlet. Use a 5-15P to L5-30R adapter.

Reliance 306A1 Indoor Transfer Switch (30A-120V)

Reliance Controls ProTran 306A1 Indoor 120V Manual Transfer Switch safely provides power from your generator for up to 6 circuits in your existing load center. LOW pricing & FAST installation.

www.steadypower.com

 

[dmholmes]

I'd take a look at the 306A1 model instead. It's cheaper and it has the watt meter, 6 15A breakers, and a 120V L5-30 inlet. Use a 5-15P to L5-30R adapter.

Thanks so much, looks good. I still need to check the house and see if we need 4 or 6 circuits for critical load.

Our refrigerator is currently on a 20A circuit breaker. Is that a problem with the 15A circuit breaker in the manual transfer switch? Should the breaker in the main panel be replaced with a 15A breaker? The refrigerator runs fine with our 15A generator and 15A inverter.

 

[Bob142]

Thanks so much, looks good. I still need to check the house and see if we need 4 or 6 circuits for critical load.

Our refrigerator is currently on a 20A circuit breaker. Is that a problem with the 15A circuit breaker in the manual transfer switch? Should the breaker in the main panel be replaced with a 15A breaker? The refrigerator runs fine with our 15A generator and 15A inverter.

You should be fine to run the fridge with the 15A breaker in the transfer switch (I do it without issue). You can protect a 20A circuit with a 15A breaker, just not the other way around. Don't change the breaker in your main panel.

Some other things for you to think about: the 4 circuit and 6 circuit transfer switch panels are exactly the same size and use the same flush mount kit. So you aren't giving up any extra wall real estate going with the 6 over the 4. When deciding between the 4 and 6, don't forget about things like lights in bathrooms and stairways/hallways during power outages. I made sure to add one of my bathrooms to my transfer panel cuz fumbling around in the dark or with a flashlight/lantern in that room can be annoying.

 

[dmholmes]

Some other things for you to think about: the 4 circuit and 6 circuit transfer switch panels are exactly the same size and use the same flush mount kit.

I noticed that, very glad

So you aren't giving up any extra wall real estate going with the 6 over the 4. When deciding between the 4 and 6, don't forget about things like lights in bathrooms and stairways/hallways during power outages. I made sure to add one of my bathrooms to my transfer panel cuz fumbling around in the dark or with a flashlight/lantern in that room can be annoying.

Will do, thanks. With the 4 circuit option I was going to do one for each bedroom (3) and the refrigerator. I think some of the plugs are on the same circuits as lights but I haven't verified that yet. I was thinking worse case that at least a lamp could be plugged in if we can only get 1 plug in each bedroom. 6 circuits will be even better of course. Is an interlock and inlet a better choice in certain cases?

 

[Bob142]

I noticed that, very glad



Will do, thanks. With the 4 circuit option I was going to do one for each bedroom (3) and the refrigerator. I think some of the plugs are on the same circuits as lights but I haven't verified that yet. I was thinking worse case that at least a lamp could be plugged in if we can only get 1 plug in each bedroom. 6 circuits will be even better of course. Is an interlock and inlet a better choice in certain cases?

For some people the interlock and inlet is the best solution because they want to have everything potentially available in an emergency, especially if they have big generators and lots of available fuel. I've gone the small transfer panel route since I know there are only a few vital things I want to power during outages (fridge, boiler, coffee maker, some lights - yes coffee maker is vital) and I have limited battery (and now solar) capacity. I've had my battery backup since 2012 and it's worked great. Would I like to power everything? Sure. Do I need to? No.

FYI: Part of my solution is also a couple small portable power stations (Jackery 240s - I'd buy the 300 now if starting over) and small solar panels for running floor lamps (with LED bulbs, of course). They work out great because they don't take up circuits in the transfer panel and don't draw down my main battery bank. Plus they can be recharged independently and easily with portable panels, have USB ports etc. for charging phones etc. and are useful as portable power for other things I do outside of emergencies.

Bottom line: it's personal preference for what works best for your use cases. Good luck deciding, I know it can be a pain to figure out what's best.

 

[dmholmes]

For some people the interlock and inlet is the best solution because they want to have everything potentially available in an emergency, especially if they have big generators and lots of available fuel.

I think for me the advantage of the interlock was more due to not needing to rewire if we decide we want a different circuit than we picked for the transfer switch. But the switch means I can try out and test loads without shutting off the main breaker, that's a bonus.

How does the inlet get wired in the interlock scenario? It's input can't handle the 240v circuits on the main panel, but is there something to block it from attempting to if you turned on a 240v circuit breaker?

I've gone the small transfer panel route since I know there are only a few vital things I want to power during outages (fridge, boiler, coffee maker, some lights - yes coffee maker is vital) and I have limited battery (and now solar) capacity. I've had my battery backup since 2012 and it's worked great. Would I like to power everything? Sure. Do I need to? No.

Same here, we don't need much but we lost quite a bit of food in the refrigerator/freezer from Hurricane Harvey. Mostly looking to avoid that again.

FYI: Part of my solution is also a couple small portable power stations (Jackery 240s - I'd buy the 300 now if starting over) and small solar panels for running floor lamps (with LED bulbs, of course). They work out great because they don't take up circuits in the transfer panel and don't draw down my main battery bank. Plus they can be recharged independently and easily with portable panels, have USB ports etc. for charging phones etc. and are useful as portable power for other things I do outside of emergencies.

Bottom line: it's personal preference for what works best for your use cases. Good luck deciding, I know it can be a pain to figure out what's best.

I like that approach too. I have the Jackery 160, might add another Jackery or Bluetti AC50S. I looked at the kits that have panels that directly charged phones but I already have the Jackery and a couple of panels, seems like a better option.

 

[Bob142]

How does the inlet get wired in the interlock scenario?

Sorry, I can't help on that front. I considered it for only a brief time before deciding it wasn't a good fit so I have no practical experience. I just know secondhand from a couple friends who went that route.

 

[Hedges]

Thanks so much, looks good. I still need to check the house and see if we need 4 or 6 circuits for critical load.

Get a box with at least one spare circuit.
Then you can wire it back to an interlocked breaker in the main panel, flip switches and power anything in the house you want.

Of course, you're always going to want more in the future, so get the biggest you can fit and afford.

 

[dmholmes]

If you set the switches to Gen and feed this manual transfer switch with an automatic switching inverter that takes grid power (like an MPP Solar) does it essentially transfer automatically to solar/battery if grid is down?

 

[GLC]

This is the transfer box I used on mine but it is a 10 circuit. Designed for generator but use it for solar. Still planning to do an interlock switch to have a generator backup but haven't done it as of yet.

Amazon.com

 

[Hedges]

This is the transfer box I used on mine but it is a 10 circuit. Designed for generator but use it for solar. Still planning to do an interlock switch to have a generator backup but haven't done it as of yet.

Amazon.com

Is that a water-cooled switch?

Don't let an inspector see it.
Swept bends are easier to pull wires through. For right angles, we use "L" or "T" conduit fittings.

 

[GLC]

Is that a water-cooled switch?

Don't let an inspector see it.
Swept bends are easier to pull wires through. For right angles, we use "L" or "T" conduit fittings.

Yep water cooler. At the moment it was all i had. I have it pretty well finished now and will be changing it out pretty soon. Still have to wire in some outside disconnects on PV and AC feed. Will change out the PVC at the same time