Thank you! that helps because that site also had a data sheet. A lot of the ones I found said they are 32v. The one you found says 80vdc which is great and I have seen that fuse holder here in uk. So I now know that’s fine. Surely the fuse is the bit that matters the holder should be able to take the volts? I already ordered that fuse but didn’t order that holder because it didn’t have a cover. I ordered another holder and I’m hoping that will be fine or I just send it back get the one you found and see if I can get some sort of cover for it. Thanks for the help.This 80v 400 amp fuse from Victron may be designed to work in their Lynx system. But also on that page is a link to a Victron fuse holder.
It may be able to but I haven’t found anything definite. The other problem with the lynx system is that I read the power in can only take a 22 mm cable where the fuses go. That isn’t big enough to take my inverter cable 50mm . So I’m attaching it to the bus bars at the ends that stick out and having a separate fuse and holder in the cable.This 80v 400 amp fuse from Victron may be designed to work in their Lynx system. But also on that page is a link to a Victron fuse holder.
I had a similar question and searched 60V breakers online for my16s lifepo4 system. They do exist but my local solar supplier assured me they've been using these 48v rated DC breakers for years. Granted lead acid banks might only run about 52 volts but still...having said that the most important thing is that it's a dc breaker,(completely diff from ac) second that the amperage matches the maximum inverter draw and is 25% over the conductor rating, thirdly is voltage. Also a lot of dc breakers I saw online are rated 0-150vdc.I haven't seen any formal write up, but anything that says it's rated for 48v may not be laracceptable for a 16s battery system. The charge voltage can get up to 58 volts, which exceeds the 48 volt rating enough to be a concern. I think it's Blue Sea Systems that is going to make a change to their ratings such that an item rated for 48 volts now would only be rated for 32v or something like that so that it's clear it shouldn't be used in a 48 volt system.
Next is the 125% requirement in 210.19(A)(1) and 215.2(A)(1): “The minimum feeder circuit conductor size,before the application of any adjustment or correction factor,shall have an allowable ampacity not less than the noncontinuous loads plus 125 percent of the continuous loads” (emphasis added). This requirement ensures that conductors and overcurrent devices are not operated continuously at over 80% of ratingI doubt the plastic of a fuse holder would break down at 80V vs. 48V. Difference is likely covers to keep fingers off the conductors, for safety reasons.
As you say, the fuse is was matters as far as performance vs. voltage.
DC breakers - and then there is polarity. If polarized, when breaking at full load, or dead-short overload, they only function if current is going the right direction.
Both fuses and breakers, AIC rating. That's going to matter more at higher voltages and with Lithium Batteries. So I'm using class T.
Nerd Penguin - I think you're mixing up a couple. Breaker amperage should be 25% over inverter draw, but not over conductor rating.
I suggest considerably more than inverter rating (and then conductor sufficient to fit this higher rating.)
Running at 100% rated output the inverter will be at some lower efficiency, so drawing more watts. Battery approaching low-voltage disconnect, so more amps to deliver those watts. Current draw from battery won't be DC, it will have a high ripple current on it, possibly swinging almost zero to 2x average. Those current pulses have a higher RMS than DC would have, which heats breaker more.
Yeah I have added a 48v isolation switch between my power inns. Now this is where it gets tricky and I’m going to ask this question which is similar to yours somewhere else on this forum.I haven't seen any formal write up, but anything that says it's rated for 48v may not be acceptable for a 16s battery system. The charge voltage can get up to 58 volts, which exceeds the 48 volt rating enough to be a concern. I think it's Blue Sea Systems that is going to make a change to their ratings such that an item rated for 48 volts now would only be rated for 32v or something like that so that it's clear it shouldn't be used in a 48 volt system.
If i want my fuse to blow in under 10s at 150A, i need a 80A fuse, not a 150A one.
It will also mean that i can not stay at 120A for more then 1000s.
To be honest ... i decided myself that 10s under overload is not normal .. so .. the circuit should be opened, all my devices should not draw more then 150A... and even that amount will likely never met. If it ever goes over 150A .. then something is wrong .. better cut the circuit, the faster the better. Now i've chosen 10s cause it also give me 1000s at 120A (120A which would eventually be met in real use, but not for 1000s, just burst for some secs).Why do you need it to blow in just 10 seconds at 150A?
I don't think thermal fuses or breakers can reliably hit short trip times at modest currents. They can do so fast enough to avoid overheating wires.
Magnetic trip or electronic trip might work for such controlled times.
Thermal OCP, breakers at least, seem to age and trip at lower current later. Extra margin in rating could avoid nuisance trips.
Loads don't necessarily draw a DC current or AC sine wave, so have higher RMS than the delivered power would suggest.
Interesting, they are pretty fast... !Yes, I meant a remote-trip circuit breaker controlled by a measurement circuit.
Most common for large breakers.
I've tested a few thermal-magnetic QO breakers. At 50% overload, 10 minutes or so. Or fast trip at about 5x rated current.
I've been contemplating magnetic/hydraulic breakers lately (Midnight sells some, but I want other values.)
I think those will give the trip times you want. Most are about 1 second for modest overload.
Ho and i competly forgot, my BMS got a Short Current Protection security and a Short Curent Protection time setting... not sure what it is, i suppose it's the maximum time the BMS would stay on with this "short" (dunno how it detect the short, maybe when it's over Peak Discharge witch is 300A) before disconnecting ... but ... i can't imagine the bms to sustain a fast increase of current. I dunno.Yes, I meant a remote-trip circuit breaker controlled by a measurement circuit.
Most common for large breakers.
I've tested a few thermal-magnetic QO breakers. At 50% overload, 10 minutes or so. Or fast trip at about 5x rated current.
I've been contemplating magnetic/hydraulic breakers lately (Midnight sells some, but I want other values.)
I think those will give the trip times you want. Most are about 1 second for modest overload.