Good afternoon folks! I have 12 445 panels 6S2P into a new EG4 3000 SCC. Finally “flipped the switch”. 2 EG4 LL batteries at 72% charge. Array is facing 190° with 20° pitch (not ideal but that’s what my 4:12 roof provides. Beautiful 80° day with no clouds. Wattage ramped up in early morning but seemed to settle at 3.3KW at 11:00 am. Unfortunately I had to head back south so didn’t monitor afternoon sun. However, once it hit 3.3KW it held there for over an hour. For my pole barn and camper this is plenty for me BUT, like everyone, want to feel I am getting best performance possible. Thanks in advance for your input.
Am I getting the most from my panels? New install.
- Thread starter Funion
- Start date
Samsonite801
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2020
- Messages
- 2,994
What is your geographic location? What is the model of the panels?
Just to note, that your PV controller will clip output at 18a, so panel configuration is important, you might need more strung in series (not to go over on max PV input Voc of course) to optimize and get max watts possible (while staying under the 18a).
Just to note, that your PV controller will clip output at 18a, so panel configuration is important, you might need more strung in series (not to go over on max PV input Voc of course) to optimize and get max watts possible (while staying under the 18a).
Last edited:
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
This one?
Without knowing your panel Vmp and Imp, I can't answer conclusively.
You have 5340W of panels.
However, you are also limmited by battery votlage/MPPT output, 80A.
80A * 56.8V = 4,544W - you'll NEVER get more than this.
Additionally, if your 2P array exceeds 18A, the Inverter will chop off anything above that.
I suspect you array performance is inhibited by the 18A limit as I suspect your panels are around 10A Imp and you're losing 11% right off the bat.
Without knowing your panel Vmp and Imp, I can't answer conclusively.
You have 5340W of panels.
However, you are also limmited by battery votlage/MPPT output, 80A.
80A * 56.8V = 4,544W - you'll NEVER get more than this.
Additionally, if your 2P array exceeds 18A, the Inverter will chop off anything above that.
I suspect you array performance is inhibited by the 18A limit as I suspect your panels are around 10A Imp and you're losing 11% right off the bat.
pollenface
Solar Addict
It would help to know you're location, usually fitting panels at the same pitch as your roof is not ideal for solar output, just the easy/practical method for installation.
Probably only a few times a year does my grid-tied system reach the maximum output of the inverter (super bright days in the middle of summer).
Probably only a few times a year does my grid-tied system reach the maximum output of the inverter (super bright days in the middle of summer).
Last edited:
That’s for the replies folks. The panels are brand new Solarever USA panels. VOC 49.86 and 10.81 Imp. When I was monitoring the inverter it sat around 260v at 12-13 amp and held pretty steady. The battery voltage to charging amps is new intel for me so thank you for that! Each battery was getting about 27.8 amps so that makes total sense. Again, it’s plenty but want to be sure I don’t have any issues before leaving it unattended.
One additional thing. I ordered highly rated copper 10awg from Amazon but by the looks of the wire it’s surely aluminum. Any correlation with the charge current?
One additional thing. I ordered highly rated copper 10awg from Amazon but by the looks of the wire it’s surely aluminum. Any correlation with the charge current?
Sorry. It’s located in Ohio.
Samsonite801
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2020
- Messages
- 2,994
You didn't mention how long is your wire run... And is this for the PV run I assume? Could yours be tinned copper wire?
Try this calculator (you can check aluminum or copper voltage drop):
Voltage Drop Calculator
This free voltage drop calculator estimates the voltage drop of an electrical circuit based on the wire size, distance, and anticipated load current.
www.calculator.net
Last edited:
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
EG4 BMS may also inhibit peak charge current. A good way to test if the battery is the limiting factor is by pulling loads near the rating of the inverter.
You can simulate your array for your exact location here:
pvwatts.nrel.gov
It factors in "average" weather over the last 30 years.
You can simulate your array for your exact location here:
PVWatts
Estimates the energy production and cost of energy of grid-connected photovoltaic (PV) energy systems throughout the world. It allows homeowners, small building owners, installers and manufacturers to easily develop estimates of the performance of potential PV installations
It factors in "average" weather over the last 30 years.
You are correct. Tinned copper. Is that an issue? Again, I’m happy with my install. Just want to know I’m getting max results.You didn't mention how long is your wire run... And is this for the PV run I assume? Could yours be tinned copper wire?
Try this calculator (you can check aluminum or copper voltage drop):
Voltage Drop Calculator
This free voltage drop calculator estimates the voltage drop of an electrical circuit based on the wire size, distance, and anticipated load current.
25’
Samsonite801
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2020
- Messages
- 2,994
Tinned is fine, they just offer that more for humid environments since bare copper oxidizes more easily. It's used in a lot of marine applications, like in a moist bilge / engine bay, and boats being around salt water, etc...
The voltage drop looks pretty good (below even 2% which is great).
Another option would be to shut off one battery, see if the other battery takes the full PV charging current or if it’s limited.EG4 BMS may also inhibit peak charge current. A good way to test if the battery is the limiting factor is by pulling loads near the rating of the inverter.
You can simulate your array for your exact location here:
PVWatts
Estimates the energy production and cost of energy of grid-connected photovoltaic (PV) energy systems throughout the world. It allows homeowners, small building owners, installers and manufacturers to easily develop estimates of the performance of potential PV installations
It factors in "average" weather over the last 30 years.
I suspect the OP is just seeing typical real world losses of panels plus a non ideal angle. Both add up quite a bit.
Another good check is not peak KW values but total KWhr for a given day.
OzSolar
Whatever you did, that's what you planned.
Lots of good answers on this thread but one thing I've not seen mentioned specifically is that the real world output at NOCT of the panels is rarely much above 80% of the STC ratings.
EG: 100 watts turns into ~80 watts before it even has a chance to get off of your roof. That's before any losses in the wiring, limits imposed by the mppt or the batteries themselves.
Last edited:
Similar threads
