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Are these LF280k? & How many amps are stock bus bars rated for?

interestingfellow

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I am not new by any means, but I did just buy 16 of these sells and I don't keep up with the Jone's when it comes to what the new stuff is.
I'm just making sure I got what I thought I ordered (which I think I did). Ordered from Dongguan Belifine

Also, how many amps are the stock bus bars actually rated for?

On my last eve280 bank I used some 1/4x1" copper because I wanted to know my bars were absolutely going to be safe with plenty of overhead for a 300a fuse.
My eve280 cells had sockets and not studs, so I was able to order appropriately long studs to install, and I can't do that with these new cells which is OK, but I want to understand what to expect.
 

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THose are fine. Most likely NOS (New Old Stock) or B Cells IF EVE LF-280K.
Originally, they came tapped for M6 Screws, then everyone upgraded to welded posts as they caused less issues, were easier and solved other quirks. Nw the Version 3 Cells have a welded on block with 2 holes ea, for optimal connection.

The "default" busbars are pure copper & tin or nickle plated, they can handle the battery pack output just fine. Some vendors have an option for flexible (laminated" busbars OR copper mesh flexible busbars. Both of those types also work just fine.

If these are EVE LF-280's the QR Code will tell the story. There is a QRCode reader for Android Phones. Link below.

NOTE that EVE marks a big B on the QR Code if they are B-Grade. Some vendors redo & re-lazer QR Codes... so it's best to scan & check what you got and keep the details handy.
 
THose are fine. Most likely NOS (New Old Stock) or B Cells IF EVE LF-280K.
Originally, they came tapped for M6 Screws, then everyone upgraded to welded posts as they caused less issues, were easier and solved other quirks. Nw the Version 3 Cells have a welded on block with 2 holes ea, for optimal connection.

The "default" busbars are pure copper & tin or nickle plated, they can handle the battery pack output just fine. Some vendors have an option for flexible (laminated" busbars OR copper mesh flexible busbars. Both of those types also work just fine.

If these are EVE LF-280's the QR Code will tell the story. There is a QRCode reader for Android Phones. Link below.

NOTE that EVE marks a big B on the QR Code if they are B-Grade. Some vendors redo & re-lazer QR Codes... so it's best to scan & check what you got and keep the details handy.
I scanned 1 cell with my camera earlier and it just brought up an alphanumeric string.

EDIT Yep! I just decoded it at power gobel or wherever and it looks right.

Very cool.

THANKS Y'ALL FOR THE CONFIDENCE!!!!
 
Let's assume nickle plated copper

Are those good enough for 280a?

I'm running my full time camper off a multiplus 24/3000. That should only be 150a sustained, but if I forget and run the microwave and ac and water heater etc then I have pulled 250a out of my existing 2p8s pack
 
I am not new by any means, but I did just buy 16 of these sells and I don't keep up with the Jone's when it comes to what the new stuff is.
I'm just making sure I got what I thought I ordered (which I think I did). Ordered from Dongguan Belifine

Also, how many amps are the stock bus bars actually rated for?

On my last eve280 bank I used some 1/4x1" copper because I wanted to know my bars were absolutely going to be safe with plenty of overhead for a 300a fuse.
My eve280 cells had sockets and not studs, so I was able to order appropriately long studs to install, and I can't do that with these new cells which is OK, but I want to understand what to expect.

?Ding ?Ding?Ding !

You got fake QR codes, those have been re-lasered. The seller took a grade B cell, than over lasered it hiding the original QR code you can look at the background of the qr code and see how it does not match at all with the rest of the cell, if you remove the black cover you can see this more easily.

see example of a botch re-laser job and also how a grade B cell looks like before it is re-lasered.
 

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Don’t think the OP was ever questioning what “grade” cells he bought.

But I’m sure he got a “test report” for the cells too ?
 
?Ding ?Ding?Ding !

You got fake QR codes, those have been re-lasered. The seller took a grade B cell, than over lasered it hiding the original QR code you can look at the background of the qr code and see how it does not match at all with the rest of the cell, if you remove the black cover you can see this more easily.

see example of a botch re-laser job and also how a grade B cell looks like before it is re-lasered.
Please explain what specifically lead you to that conclusion. I am asking sincerily.

I see your pic of the fake qr code.
How do you know mine are fake <i have edited this question>(i am also about to go try to peel/investigste mine rn)

I see octagonal terminals on your b grade example pics. Those B grade you show are the newest lfk cells (v3?)
Older lfk cells had round w post, no?
 
Frour picture, you can see the qr code area is a different color than the metal around it. That shouldn't be the case.

Please explain what specifically lead you to that conclusion. I am asking sincerily.

I see your pic of the fake qr code.
How do you know mine are fake <i have edited this question>(i am also about to go try to peel/investigste mine rn)

I see octagonal terminals on your b grade example pics. Those B grade you show are the newest lfk cells (v3?)
Older lfk cells had round w post, no?
-How do I know that the black plastic on top or the qr code was just not %100 centered?

It doesn't appear as though my qr code is ontop of another/previous qr code

-The laser etching feels right, to me.
-The color around the qr code is just the aluminum that it's etched into


If I challange the seller on this I want to be sure that I can back up my claim.


I have the battery in a warm room with me now and will peel the black plastic off to see what's under it, but I don't know that will show me much.

I appreciate y'alls help
 
When they laser the code, they only laser the text on original batteries. So the background of the text is the metal. When you see a color around the text that isn't the same as the metal color, that means they lasered the text and background. The only reason to do that is to cover up the old QR code.
 
When they laser the code, they only laser the text on original batteries. So the background of the text is the metal. When you see a color around the text that isn't the same as the metal color, that means they lasered the text and background. The only reason to do that is to cover up the old QR code.
Thank you, this is what I was asking for
 
We have a laser at work. We put part numbers on various metal parts. It takes a lot longer to fill an area than just put text on, so it's not economical to do that. You can vary the color of the markings to a degree by changing intensity, passes, frequency, etc. Sometimes a wrong number gets put on. We either sand it off and do it again, or white it out with a solid pattern then put the text back on.
 
Well, I have x16 of these.
I'm going to compare between them amd do some more reading

Thank you for helping and getting me started
 
Look at these original qr codes:

Yours will not be this way, they are going to be altered because the seller wants to hide the fact they are grade B so they have them re lasered to hide this fact. Some sellers will also sand and relaser but apparently that takes too much effort so they are now lazy relasering because they can't be bothered to take off the black cover, sand, reglue.

I would say I feel bad, but I don't because you should have asked here first before buying not afterwards.
 
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