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Avoiding efficiency losses on the 6000xp

AZ Solar Junkie

Maricopa, AZ
Joined
Sep 26, 2023
Messages
508
Location
Maricopa, AZ
Hey guys - thought I would share something I discovered on the 6000xp that's saving me money.

Over the summer/fall months I was running the EG4 3000EHV with 3 of the LL V2 batteries. I would almost always get more solar energy than I could actually use with the loads I'm running off the system - never needing to actually let the system pull any power from the grid. Well, actually the system would ALWAYS draw about 40 watts from the grid any time I actually had it connected. In any case, I would leave the system configured to start charging from the grid if the batteries got down to 20%, which only happened after a rare string of bad weather days here in Arizona.

I upgraded to the 6000xp several weeks ago and set up the configuration in the same fashion. In my case I only have the small-ish backyard on the north side of the house as an option to have my solar arrays, and with the low angle of the sun this time of year they are almost always shaded by the house, so my solar production is down like more than 90% versus the rest of the year. Leaving it in this configuration, where it's running off the inverter pulling most of the power from the batteries, and letting it pull from the grid when the batteries get low - what I found in looking at all the numbers is that I was actually pulling MORE from the grid than the total load output due to the pitiful amount of solar power coming in, the internal consumption of the unit and the efficiency losses in the AC to DC conversion and the charging/discharging of the batteries, etc.

I considered just shutting down the system for now and running off my loads off the grid, because I'm using more power by having it on than I'm getting from the solar, but I discovered some things about the 6000xp that I thought I would pass along that is allowing me now to still reduce my grid usage a bit using this setup in spite of the low solar power.

The first thing I discovered is that as opposed to the 3000 EHV which always pulls ~40 watts from the grid when it's connected, the 6000XP pulls virtually NO POWER from the grid when it's powering the loads from the inverter with battery and/or PV power. I'm sure it's not absolutely zero, but it's close enough to it that the emporia Vue CT sensors don't detect any current at all.

The next thing I discovered is that if you enable the battery ECO mode (setting 20), then once the batteries get down to the EOD Battery Discharge Cutoff level (setting 12), the system switches to bypass mode and stays in that mode - only charging the batteries from whatever PV power is coming in - until the batteries get up to 90%. I can't find a setting that allows that 90% threshold to be changed. It's not the AC End SOC setting - it always seems to be 90%. I'm guessing that's just defined as part of enabling the battery ECO mode.

In any case, the important thing I found is that while the system is running in bypass mode, the power it is drawing from the grid virtually identically matches the power draw of the loads - even at night when there is no PV power coming in. Apparently the unit is only sipping a tiny amount of power to keep the internals and monitoring going, but the difference in the total power coming into the grid input and the total power going out to the loads is almost undetectable. In any case it is a totally inconsequential amount of power. I confirmed it's certainly not drawing anything from the batteries either. No current detected and after 14+ hours of no solar with the system in bypass mode the battery SOC did not change even 1%.

So I've settled on this combination of settings for anyone who might find them useful:
  • Setting 20 - battery ECO mode ENABLED
  • AC Charge Setting (setting 14) - Start SOC - 20%, End SOC - 24% - just to prevent the batteries from running down further
  • Setting 12 - End of Discharge Cutoff SOC - 22%
Maybe someone can improve on this, but it is functioning wonderfully for me, because the net effect - say starting from a fully charges battery rack:
  • The system runs the loads off the inverter, pulling battery and/or PV only and no power from the grid
  • Once the batteries get down to my EOD Cutoff SOC setting of 22%, the system switches to bypass, no longer drawing any power from the batteries, and with virtually no detectable additional overhead draw on the grid vs. the loads. There must be SOME overhead, but it's small enough I pretty much can't even detect it.
  • Each day, the batteries will charge with the sorry amount of PV power coming in - depending on the day it may only increase the battery bank SOC by 2% or on a good day lately maybe 5-10%.
  • Eventually the batteries get to 90% and switches to the inverter and drains the batteries back down to the 22% threshold. That's my ONE day of grid usage savings ;)
  • Then it repeats the whole cycle.
The biggest surprise in all this for me is the grid input and the load output power being virtually identical. I expected the 6000xp to need more power to run itself, but apparently not when in bypass mode. The only major efficiency loss I see during the cycle is on the MPPT. Depending on the power coming in, there is about a 50-100 watt difference between the solar power coming in and the power going to the batteries - but that's "free" power anyway.

In the below screenshot from SA, you can see the first part of this particular day when the system was powering the loads from the batteries/PV using the inverter, and then switched to bypass mode. After that you can see no difference at all between the load and grid, and that's not just how it's being reported but confirmed by external clamp meter and CT sensors.

1702752976546.png
 
Hey guys - thought I would share something I discovered on the 6000xp that's saving me money.

Over the summer/fall months I was running the EG4 3000EHV with 3 of the LL V2 batteries. I would almost always get more solar energy than I could actually use with the loads I'm running off the system - never needing to actually let the system pull any power from the grid. Well, actually the system would ALWAYS draw about 40 watts from the grid any time I actually had it connected. In any case, I would leave the system configured to start charging from the grid if the batteries got down to 20%, which only happened after a rare string of bad weather days here in Arizona.

I upgraded to the 6000xp several weeks ago and set up the configuration in the same fashion. In my case I only have the small-ish backyard on the north side of the house as an option to have my solar arrays, and with the low angle of the sun this time of year they are almost always shaded by the house, so my solar production is down like more than 90% versus the rest of the year. Leaving it in this configuration, where it's running off the inverter pulling most of the power from the batteries, and letting it pull from the grid when the batteries get low - what I found in looking at all the numbers is that I was actually pulling MORE from the grid than the total load output due to the pitiful amount of solar power coming in, the internal consumption of the unit and the efficiency losses in the AC to DC conversion and the charging/discharging of the batteries, etc.

I considered just shutting down the system for now and running off my loads off the grid, because I'm using more power by having it on than I'm getting from the solar, but I discovered some things about the 6000xp that I thought I would pass along that is allowing me now to still reduce my grid usage a bit using this setup in spite of the low solar power.

The first thing I discovered is that as opposed to the 3000 EHV which always pulls ~40 watts from the grid when it's connected, the 6000XP pulls virtually NO POWER from the grid when it's powering the loads from the inverter with battery and/or PV power. I'm sure it's not absolutely zero, but it's close enough to it that the emporia Vue CT sensors don't detect any current at all.

The next thing I discovered is that if you enable the battery ECO mode (setting 20), then once the batteries get down to the EOD Battery Discharge Cutoff level (setting 12), the system switches to bypass mode and stays in that mode - only charging the batteries from whatever PV power is coming in - until the batteries get up to 90%. I can't find a setting that allows that 90% threshold to be changed. It's not the AC End SOC setting - it always seems to be 90%. I'm guessing that's just defined as part of enabling the battery ECO mode.

In any case, the important thing I found is that while the system is running in bypass mode, the power it is drawing from the grid virtually identically matches the power draw of the loads - even at night when there is no PV power coming in. Apparently the unit is only sipping a tiny amount of power to keep the internals and monitoring going, but the difference in the total power coming into the grid input and the total power going out to the loads is almost undetectable. In any case it is a totally inconsequential amount of power. I confirmed it's certainly not drawing anything from the batteries either. No current detected and after 14+ hours of no solar with the system in bypass mode the battery SOC did not change even 1%.

So I've settled on this combination of settings for anyone who might find them useful:
  • Setting 20 - battery ECO mode ENABLED
  • AC Charge Setting (setting 14) - Start SOC - 20%, End SOC - 24% - just to prevent the batteries from running down further
  • Setting 12 - End of Discharge Cutoff SOC - 22%
Maybe someone can improve on this, but it is functioning wonderfully for me, because the net effect - say starting from a fully charges battery rack:
  • The system runs the loads off the inverter, pulling battery and/or PV only and no power from the grid
  • Once the batteries get down to my EOD Cutoff SOC setting of 22%, the system switches to bypass, no longer drawing any power from the batteries, and with virtually no detectable additional overhead draw on the grid vs. the loads. There must be SOME overhead, but it's small enough I pretty much can't even detect it.
  • Each day, the batteries will charge with the sorry amount of PV power coming in - depending on the day it may only increase the battery bank SOC by 2% or on a good day lately maybe 5-10%.
  • Eventually the batteries get to 90% and switches to the inverter and drains the batteries back down to the 22% threshold. That's my ONE day of grid usage savings ;)
  • Then it repeats the whole cycle.
The biggest surprise in all this for me is the grid input and the load output power being virtually identical. I expected the 6000xp to need more power to run itself, but apparently not when in bypass mode. The only major efficiency loss I see during the cycle is on the MPPT. Depending on the power coming in, there is about a 50-100 watt difference between the solar power coming in and the power going to the batteries - but that's "free" power anyway.

In the below screenshot from SA, you can see the first part of this particular day when the system was powering the loads from the batteries/PV using the inverter, and then switched to bypass mode. After that you can see no difference at all between the load and grid, and that's not just how it's being reported but confirmed by external clamp meter and CT sensors.

View attachment 183367
Actually I just discovered I was mistaken about the On Grid EOD SOC setting and the point where the 6000xp automatically switches from bypass back to using the inverter. It seems to not be the 90% I thought it was, but rather 10% above whatever you set the On Grid EOD SOC setting to.
 
I just received my 6000XP, what is a good starting point for setting the charge settings?
I'm not sure what to tell you there. It depends on so many factors that would be unique to your needs. Obviously the default settings are a good baseline and then start tweaking it as needed for how you want it to work for you.
 
On setting 14, I chose SOC & enable.
Start charge 20% end charge 100%
Didn’t set any times. Hope this works.
If Setting 12 - End of Discharge Cutoff SOC is set to <20% then your settings should keep the system running on the inverter with battery and solar power. If the batteries get down to 20% then it will start pulling AC grid power enough to both power the loads and charge the batteries at the AC amp charging rate until the batteries are fully charged. Then it will stop pulling any AC grid power until/if the batteries get down to 20% again.
 
Understood, thanks. A good starting point for me.
Alternatively, if you set Setting 12 - End of Discharge Cutoff SOC is set to >20% / greater than the AC start charge and enable the battery ECO mode, then when it gets to your End of Discharge Cutoff SOC threshold it will instead just bypass the inverter and pull only enough AC to power the loads until the solar charges the batteries to 10% higher. This is what I’m doing to avoid pulling more grid power than necessary.
 
Alternatively, if you set Setting 12 - End of Discharge Cutoff SOC is set to >20% / greater than the AC start charge and enable the battery ECO mode, then when it gets to your End of Discharge Cutoff SOC threshold it will instead just bypass the inverter and pull only enough AC to power the loads until the solar charges the batteries to 10% higher. This is what I’m doing to avoid pulling more grid power than necessary.
Do I need to enter anything other than all the 00:00’s in the time slots P1,P2,or P3?
 
Its working as you described, thanks so much! I will experiment with the ECO mode after I get familiar with the system. The wifi dongle is not working yet (different issue) so I am operating without much data unless I sit in front of it. Lol. Having a blast with thing, trying different loads.
 
Its working as you described, thanks so much! I will experiment with the ECO mode after I get familiar with the system. The wifi dongle is not working yet (different issue) so I am operating without much data unless I sit in front of it. Lol. Having a blast with thing, trying different loads.
Great to hear that it’s working well. Once you get the WiFi dongle working I highly recommend monitoring it with solar assistant. The EG4 monitoring app and portal are okay, but it only updates the data every five minutes. Solar Assistant gives you data updated every second and has a much more straightforward reporting interface.
 
Hey guys - thought I would share something I discovered on the 6000xp that's saving me money.

Over the summer/fall months I was running the EG4 3000EHV with 3 of the LL V2 batteries. I would almost always get more solar energy than I could actually use with the loads I'm running off the system - never needing to actually let the system pull any power from the grid. Well, actually the system would ALWAYS draw about 40 watts from the grid any time I actually had it connected. In any case, I would leave the system configured to start charging from the grid if the batteries got down to 20%, which only happened after a rare string of bad weather days here in Arizona.

I upgraded to the 6000xp several weeks ago and set up the configuration in the same fashion. In my case I only have the small-ish backyard on the north side of the house as an option to have my solar arrays, and with the low angle of the sun this time of year they are almost always shaded by the house, so my solar production is down like more than 90% versus the rest of the year. Leaving it in this configuration, where it's running off the inverter pulling most of the power from the batteries, and letting it pull from the grid when the batteries get low - what I found in looking at all the numbers is that I was actually pulling MORE from the grid than the total load output due to the pitiful amount of solar power coming in, the internal consumption of the unit and the efficiency losses in the AC to DC conversion and the charging/discharging of the batteries, etc.

I considered just shutting down the system for now and running off my loads off the grid, because I'm using more power by having it on than I'm getting from the solar, but I discovered some things about the 6000xp that I thought I would pass along that is allowing me now to still reduce my grid usage a bit using this setup in spite of the low solar power.

The first thing I discovered is that as opposed to the 3000 EHV which always pulls ~40 watts from the grid when it's connected, the 6000XP pulls virtually NO POWER from the grid when it's powering the loads from the inverter with battery and/or PV power. I'm sure it's not absolutely zero, but it's close enough to it that the emporia Vue CT sensors don't detect any current at all.

The next thing I discovered is that if you enable the battery ECO mode (setting 20), then once the batteries get down to the EOD Battery Discharge Cutoff level (setting 12), the system switches to bypass mode and stays in that mode - only charging the batteries from whatever PV power is coming in - until the batteries get up to 90%. I can't find a setting that allows that 90% threshold to be changed. It's not the AC End SOC setting - it always seems to be 90%. I'm guessing that's just defined as part of enabling the battery ECO mode.

In any case, the important thing I found is that while the system is running in bypass mode, the power it is drawing from the grid virtually identically matches the power draw of the loads - even at night when there is no PV power coming in. Apparently the unit is only sipping a tiny amount of power to keep the internals and monitoring going, but the difference in the total power coming into the grid input and the total power going out to the loads is almost undetectable. In any case it is a totally inconsequential amount of power. I confirmed it's certainly not drawing anything from the batteries either. No current detected and after 14+ hours of no solar with the system in bypass mode the battery SOC did not change even 1%.

So I've settled on this combination of settings for anyone who might find them useful:
  • Setting 20 - battery ECO mode ENABLED
  • AC Charge Setting (setting 14) - Start SOC - 20%, End SOC - 24% - just to prevent the batteries from running down further
  • Setting 12 - End of Discharge Cutoff SOC - 22%
Maybe someone can improve on this, but it is functioning wonderfully for me, because the net effect - say starting from a fully charges battery rack:
  • The system runs the loads off the inverter, pulling battery and/or PV only and no power from the grid
  • Once the batteries get down to my EOD Cutoff SOC setting of 22%, the system switches to bypass, no longer drawing any power from the batteries, and with virtually no detectable additional overhead draw on the grid vs. the loads. There must be SOME overhead, but it's small enough I pretty much can't even detect it.
  • Each day, the batteries will charge with the sorry amount of PV power coming in - depending on the day it may only increase the battery bank SOC by 2% or on a good day lately maybe 5-10%.
  • Eventually the batteries get to 90% and switches to the inverter and drains the batteries back down to the 22% threshold. That's my ONE day of grid usage savings ;)
  • Then it repeats the whole cycle.
The biggest surprise in all this for me is the grid input and the load output power being virtually identical. I expected the 6000xp to need more power to run itself, but apparently not when in bypass mode. The only major efficiency loss I see during the cycle is on the MPPT. Depending on the power coming in, there is about a 50-100 watt difference between the solar power coming in and the power going to the batteries - but that's "free" power anyway.

In the below screenshot from SA, you can see the first part of this particular day when the system was powering the loads from the batteries/PV using the inverter, and then switched to bypass mode. After that you can see no difference at all between the load and grid, and that's not just how it's being reported but confirmed by external clamp meter and CT sensors.

View attachment 183367
Great post thanks.

I also discovered that charging my battery from the grid costs me about an additional 10% of power from the grid-very expensive. So in my system(not a 6000xp) when the battery gets low I turn on the grid to pass through to the loads but set it to not charge the battery.

There is no hit passing grid power to loads
 
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The only downside I have found on the 6000 XP when in Eco mode is that if the grid goes down it can take 6 to 8 seconds before the inverter starts to power the load. There is a hidden value that you can force to show up by messing around with, the Bluetooth local connect during that eight seconds, and you might be able to change it or you might be able to ask eg4 to change it
 
The only downside I have found on the 6000 XP when in Eco mode is that if the grid goes down it can take 6 to 8 seconds before the inverter starts to power the load. There is a hidden value that you can force to show up by messing around with, the Bluetooth local connect during that eight seconds, and you might be able to change it or you might be able to ask eg4 to change it
I assume the scenario you are referring to would be enabling the battery Eco Mode and the inverter being in bypass mode because the batteries got down to your on grid EOD threshold? Yeah I can see how that would take some seconds since it’s also placing the batteries in standby mode. Fortunately it’s only a few months out of the year for me that the batteries get down to every trigger switching to bypass (and our grid service is very reliable anyway).
 
Question for you OP - what is the specs of your solar array? VOC and Watts.

I too am in Maricopa and am specing out a system.
 
Question for you OP - what is the specs of your solar array? VOC and Watts.

I too am in Maricopa and am specing out a system.

Wow - howdy neighbor - the world is indeed small. If you'd like to get together to collaborate or work on stuff sometime, just let me know.

I have 2 series strings - one to each MPPT. One string is 2400 watts @ 275 volts VoC. The other is 3330 watts @ 369 volts VoC. Combined, on a clear sunny day they produce about 4800 watts. On partly cloudy days when the panels aren't getting so hot and I'm sure the "cloud edge effects", they actually produce more when the sun breaks through - to over 6000 watts sometimes - which is more than their theoretical output.
 
Nice - on a typical day, how much you bringing in in total?
My total production is currently limited because I don’t have enough load consumption. Even if my batteries are getting low by morning, my 15kWh battery bank is fully charged by noon on most days, and of course once that happens there’s nowhere for PV energy to go but to power my loads so the array power drops way off down to a bit more than my loads. So currently my daily solar production is only 20-25 kWh. Once I put in the pro tran transfer switch and get more loads on the system I expect to be able to pull in about twice that. In a few weeks I’ll give you another update on the results after the transfer switch gets installed.
 
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