diy solar

diy solar

Beginner needs to buy components before going to Mexico

I’m not sure if the op is grid tied or not , but I think he is not .
I’m off grid with out back and it work great but I’m in NY in the Mountains think cold/snowy / pretty much worst weather imaginable.? ?
It is a bit expensive stuff but it delivers the only quality i trusrt down south the border at the pacific coast.
BUT my o my the documentation how to configure your system is just terible over complicated it need rewriting and a couple of example instaltions with configuration.
I´m an engineer and have read a ton of documentations but even this one was a pain n the neck for me .
 
midnite solar makes great equipment , i think this must be a rebranded Chinese system
But Arazona wind and sun is selling it , if they sell you a system there are guys standing in there
store that can help you if you have a issue . Most every one is very knowledgeable.
If you need some hand holding , you can get a real live engineer to help
If I had internet or solid phone service they could peek into my system on line and trouble shoot it .
all this diy stuff is well and good but with no experience It’s a lot of guessing going on.
I was on the forms for a year trying to figure this out .
In the end I called arazona Wind And Sun told the guy what I wanted to do and In 24 hours I had a quote
in my hand .
4 days latter my system was sitting in my yard . It wasn’t cheep , but it was easy . View attachment 62918
That’s great. I’ll be driving through AZ on my way. Thanks for the tip. I did get a little more info from Dad. He’s 81. We have 8 6 volt L16 batteries hooked up in series. I think that’s right, the negative on one battery goes to the positive of the next. Is that the most efficient way to use them? And couldn’t that system be 24 or 48 volts? I’ve been digging through the FAQ’s and other sites but can’t seem to land on how to convert 12v to 24 or 48 or if I even need to go down that road. If 12v has worked for 30 years I should probably leave well enough alone.
midnite solar makes great equipment , i think this must be a rebranded Chinese system
But Arazona wind and sun is selling it , if they sell you a system there are guys standing in there
store that can help you if you have a issue . Most every one is very knowledgeable.
If you need some hand holding , you can get a real live engineer to help
If I had internet or solid phone service they could peek into my system on line and trouble shoot it .
all this diy stuff is well and good but with no experience It’s a lot of guessing going on.
I was on the forms for a year trying to figure this out .
In the end I called arazona Wind And Sun told the guy what I wanted to do and In 24 hours I had a quote
in my hand .
4 days latter my system was sitting in my yard . It wasn’t cheep , but it was easy . View attachment 62918
 
Thanks, I’ll be going through AZ on my way. Thanks for the tip. I did get a little more info from Dad. He’s 81. We have 8-6 volt L16 batteries hooked up in series. I think that’s right, the negative on one battery goes to the positive of the next. Is that the most efficient way to use them? Also, the fridge is rated at 350-750 watts and the TV is 160 watts. Couldn’t that system be 24 or 48 volts? I’ve been digging through the FAQ’s and other sites but can’t seem to land on how to convert 12v to 24 or 48 or if I even need to go down that road. If 12v has worked for 30 years I should probably leave well enough alone.
 
The most important thing you have to watch is that your inverter can handle the grid in Mexico it is official 127 volts +/- 10 % !!!!!!!
The frequency is also not to stabil.
Your inverter must be able to have a selling voltage a way above the standart max 132 V for inverters.
As far i know only Outback delever top quality inverters suitable for Latin America , i have my max selling voltgae set at 140 V !! my grid is around 133 V !!
Al circuit board must be coated with sealer due huminidity and al kind of bugs .
Outback has that all and even a fully closed inverter of 4000 watt , go to a 48 volt instalation, lot less amp and you save a lot on cabeling.
Use the special solar panel cable due loacation and enviroment .
If you want to know more please feel free to ask.
Thanks for the tip. Where we are there are no power lines, we’re completely off grid. You’re right about the heat and humidity. The inverter that died was all sealed up and still had sand in it. The local solar guy took it apart and got it somewhat going. Does Outback make an all in one unit? I’m sure I need a new charge controller too if I’m going to add more panels.
 
Thanks for the tip. Where we are there are no power lines, we’re completely off grid. You’re right about the heat and humidity. The inverter that died was all sealed up and still had sand in it. The local solar guy took it apart and got it somewhat going. Does Outback make an all in one unit? I’m sure I need a new charge controller too if I’m going to add more panels.
Yep, but sit down for the price , but top quality cost a lot , https://www.outbackpower.com/products
But in Mexico you need the best , there is no service around for repairs, transportation cost are high and o my customs papers and clearance a nightmare !
I bought my Outback stuff by ERDM
You are not grid tied, go for a much cheaper solution, you can spray the circuit boards by yourself with special lack you can by that by Amazon i think, buy some filter material with velcro tape and you keep most of the dust and bugs out .
 
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OK gents, we have pictures of the equipment in Mexico. I hope it’s useful to see what’s there now. This is in the battery room and probably needs attention. BE5C51EC-A9DF-4AF2-BB04-B9487D04C0EA.jpeg640BC72E-7674-4370-8155-AD04814200DD.jpeg51F6608F-B87E-4AFB-97A0-C2934EFAA140.jpeg
 
OK gents, we have pictures of the equipment in Mexico. I hope it’s useful to see what’s there now. This is in the battery room and probably needs attention. View attachment 63018View attachment 63019View attachment 63017

Yes. That is helpful.

Question: Do you know what the 'pulse' device under the inverter is? A fuse? Some kind of RF Filter?

TriStar Controller.
This is an mppt controller. As such, it is important to try to match the voltage from the panels to the voltage range of the batteries. With the 12V system, that means trying to keep the voltage in the 15-19 Volt range. If the PV voltage gets above that the efficiency of the energy capture will drop off rapidly. This means your existing panels *should* all be 12V class panels and *should* all be wired in parallel.

I assume the two large cables going 'up' from the tri-star are going to the solar panels. Those look like #2 cables. That is pretty big.

Question: Do you have any idea of there are any fuses where all the panels are tied together?
Question: Did you get any more info on the panels and how they are wired?



We have 8-6 volt L16 batteries hooked up in series. I think that’s right, the negative on one battery goes to the positive of the next. Is that the most efficient way to use them?
If all 8 batteries are in series, then it is already a 48 volt system. However, given the size of the cables in the picture, I doubt it is a 48V system. My guess is the batteries are wired 2 series x 4 parallel.

1630714601294.png

There is little difference in the battery efficiency on how you wire them, but the rest of the system is typically more efficient when it is designed around higher voltage battery systems.

Trace inverter/charger.

It looks like there were 12V, 24V, 36V, and 48V, models of that inverter. I can't tell from the picture what model you have but I'll assume it is the 12V model. (The battery cables are pretty large and that supports that it is a 12V system) Is there any chance we can get the actual model number on the inverter or pics of the batteries and how they are wired?

Also, the fridge is rated at 350-750 watts and the TV is 160 watts.
It sounds like the total power is in the 1200W range....particularly if all your lights are converted to LEDs. Unless you are planning on expanding the loads you might put on it, I would say to go from your current 1500W to around 2000W. That would give you a bit of room for growth but keep the size more manageable than a 4K or 6K system.

Couldn’t that system be 24 or 48 volts? I’ve been digging through the FAQ’s and other sites but can’t seem to land on how to convert 12v to 24 or 48 or if I even need to go down that road. If 12v has worked for 30 years I should probably leave well enough alone.
If you keep it to a 2000W or smaller inverter, staying at 12V is a viable option. If you go with higher wattage inverters, you really should consider 24 or 48V.

It is not really a 'conversion' to 24 or 48V. It is more like a rebuild to 24 or 48V.
When you select your new inverter, you will select the voltage the system is going to run at (12, 24 or 48V). Based on that selection, you will arrange your 8 batteries to create the selected voltage.
For a 12V inverter, you should arrange them as shown above.
For a 48 Volt inverter you will put all 8 batteries in series.
1630716238824.png
For a 24 volt inverter, you will have two strings of 4 in series:
1630716367553.png
 
Out back flex power one mine came from AWS I think it was under 3 k maybe only 2800 $ now with coved money aged on 3800 the last I looked .
I could definitely recommend it
I don’t think you will be sorry I’m not
There are all kinds of reasons to move away from 12 volt but you could just replace the inverter there are a few on eBay I think
I like filter guys pics they rock .
I would call aws they can really fill you in on the systems available they may or may not have every thing you need if you just drive buy .
68860360-7D08-4EFF-B19B-5C399E197958.jpeg
 
sounds like the total power is in the 1200W range....particularly if all your lights are converted to LEDs. Unless you are planning on expanding the loads you might put on it, I would say to go from your current 1500W to around 2000W. That would give you a bit of room for growth but keep the size more manageable than a 4K or 6K system.
The 2000W makes sense- even with good equipment I’m not a fan of intentionally using over 85% of nominal capacity on a regular basis. Don’t get ocd on that: Under 75% I suppose one could say is ‘better’ but that’s extreme/ocd and not necessary; the point is headroom (and a hair dryer lol)
If you keep it to a 2000W or smaller inverter, staying at 12V is a viable option. If you go with higher wattage inverters, you really should consider 24 or 48V
OP made the comment about it working for thirty years why mess with it. There is some validity in that imho like filterguy alludes to.
if the inverter supports it 24V has some advantages for the mppt and you could experiment with that - if you wanted.
The other thing is 12V inverters are probably more readily available if something goes down in your resource-starved location.
I’ve been digging through the FAQ’s and other sites but can’t seem to land on how to convert 12v to 24 or 48 or if I even need to go down that road. If 12v has worked for 30 years I should probably leave well enough alone.
First, your existing system is more ‘quality’ and at a level above what I was imagining (assuming?). If it’s 12V and working it will continue. True.

For educational purposes:

series: 8 6v batteries in series is connected like this:
1st batt neg (-) to 2nd batt pos(+),2nd batt neg to 3rd batt pos, 3rd batt neg to 4th batt pos, 4th batt neg to 5th pos, 5th neg to 6th pos, 6th neg to 7th pos, 7th neg to 8th pos... 1st batt pos(+) is the inverter + cable, 8th neg is the inverter (-). Can be drawn out in a row as above. Voltage is #batts times single battery voltage. In this case 8 * 6V is 48V
That is series. All 8 in series is called 8S
In series the voltage is multiplied:
If you had only two of your batteries in series (not using the others for this example) it would be 2 batts times 6V = 12V called 2S. If four in series it would be 4*6V = 24V or 4S

Parallel arrangements leave the voltage the same as the single batteries or strings of batteries. If you placed your 8 batteries in a row with all the positive(+) terminals connected and all negative terminals connected (8P) the voltage would be six volts. Even 3 connected parallel (3P) would be 6V.

If you connected 4 of your 6V batteries in a series arrangement (4S) you would have 24V.

If you connected the other four in series they would be 24V. 4S.

if you connected the positive terminals together of the first batteries in the two strings of 4S 6V batteries and connected the last negatives of the two strings together it will be 24V because parallel connections do not increase voltage. We would call this example 4S2P as in 2 parallel connected strings of four batteries in series.

A 2S4P arrangement- four parallel connected strings of two 6V batteries in series- is 12V. The series connection multiplies volts; 2 times 6V batteries in series is 12V. You then have four 2-battery 12V strings which are then connected in parallel- parallel connections do not change voltage- to yield full Amp hours at 12V

Does this show how you can manipulate storage battery bank voltage to suite your needs?

I’m on a phone so can’t draw this but hopefully it was useful
 
Out back flex power one mine came from AWS I think it was under 3 k maybe only 2800 $ now with coved money aged on 3800 the last I looked .
I could definitely recommend it
I don’t think you will be sorry I’m not
There are all kinds of reasons to move away from 12 volt but you could just replace the inverter there are a few on eBay I think
I like filter guys pics they rock .
I would call aws they can really fill you in on the systems available they may or may not have every thing you need if you just drive buy .
View attachment 63036
That is quality, very nice
 
Sounds like we’ve got 75% of what we need. Since we figured out how to get pictures from Mexico let’s see if I can get some of the batteries.
To answer a couple of questions. The thing below the inverter is a large fuse. The only thing I see about the inverter model is it’s a DR series.
 
As for cables and size. Can I just use what’s there or are new ones needed? If at all possible I’d love to keep this as simple as possible.
Cables that work for 1000W at 12v should work fine for 4000W at 48v.
You should check that fuses and breakers are rated for 48v.

I highly recommend bringing cable, lugs, heat shrink, hydraulic crimper with you. Otherwise you are almost surely going to be waiting for it to be delivered.
If you are going 48v, you will almost certainly need to be rewiring the solar strings, so bring plenty of 10 gauge photovoltaic wire, way more MC-4 connectors than you think you'll need, crimp tool for the connectors, etc.
 
That’s great. I’ll be driving through AZ on my way. Thanks for the tip. I did get a little more info from Dad. He’s 81. We have 8 6 volt L16 batteries hooked up in series. I think that’s right, the negative on one battery goes to the positive of the next. Is that the most efficient way to use them? And couldn’t that system be 24 or 48 volts? I’ve been digging through the FAQ’s and other sites but can’t seem to land on how to convert 12v to 24 or 48 or if I even need to go down that road. If 12v has worked for 30 years I should probably leave well enough alone.
You might stop by Santan solar and pick up some panels if you have a truck.

If it is 12v system, then almost certainly those eight 6v batteries are 4 parallel, two serial. For 48v, you would place all eight in series.
 
Ok sounds like I need to stick with 12v on this trip considering the variables of breaker ratings, wire size, and reconfiguring the panels and/or the batteries. That being said, I’ll get a 2000 watt inverter and an 80 amp controller. If there’s a good AIO would you go that route? If not what would you recommend? It also appears like there’s an extra “monitor” on the top left?
I believe the Pulse item is just a shelf that the cable runs through but I may be wrong. The Outback products are out of my price range. I’m still working on getting battery wiring pictures. Can’t thank y’all enough.
 
Something like this and a separate controller? This way if I go to a 48v system later I’ll just need a new inverter.
 
Something like this and a separate controller? This way if I go to a 48v system later I’ll just need a new inverter.
That inverter is junk
check out Sam Alex VIO inverter / charger 12 volt 2000watts
Midnite solar makes a good inverter
 
That inverter is junk
check out Sam Alex VIO inverter / charger 12 volt 2000watts
Midnite solar makes a good inverter
Isn't that just a re-badged Sigineer?
Is it your opinion that Sigineer is junk?
 
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