diy solar

diy solar

Best practice for cleaning and protecting connections?

Just remember, a little dab will do you. (Now, name the product that ad was for!)

Seriously, don't slather on the paste. It doesn't take much. I use a little tiny paint brush to put it on and sometimes use a no-lint towel to wipe off most of it. A thin layer is all you need.
 
Just remember, a little dab will do you. (Now, name the product that ad was for!)

Seriously, don't slather on the paste. It doesn't take much. I use a little tiny paint brush to put it on and sometimes use a no-lint towel to wipe off most of it. A thin layer is all you need.
Brylcreem "grooms without gumming"?
 
Ok, I am going to assemble a cable to a battery which has a bolt/screw.
Is the proper assembly sequence, A or B?

(A)
brush to remove any oxidization on a surface,
clean the surface to remove any debris,
coat lightly with an appropriate Anti-Oxidant,
assemble components,
remove excess Anti-Oxidant

(B)
brush to remove any oxidization on a surface,
clean the surface to remove any debris,
assemble components,
coat lightly with an appropriate Anti-Oxidant,
remove excess Anti-Oxidant
 
Sounds good. Anything on the threads could have a negative affect on properly torquing.

Yes, but you would have to be pretty sloppy to get the paste on the thread. I use a very small paintbrush, like 1/8" wide, to put the paste on.

I'm on-board with option A. The idea being that you want to prevent the conductive surfaces of the terminal and cable lug from forming oxides. Putting the paste on after the components are assembled is like shutting the barn door after the cows have gotten out.
 
Yes, but you would have to be pretty sloppy to get the paste on the thread. I use a very small paintbrush, like 1/8" wide, to put the paste on.

I'm on-board with option A. The idea being that you want to prevent the conductive surfaces of the terminal and cable lug from forming oxides. Putting the paste on after the components are assembled is like shutting the barn door after the cows have gotten out.
Alright, I get the 1/8" paintbrush and being careful.

My brain doesn't want my fingers to paint between the battery terminal and the cable lug.
Can you convince my knoggin that the compound won't create resistance?
 
It's a coating to keep oxygen from oxidizing aluminum. Oxygen cannot get in between the connections. Coating the outside, is all that is needed.
 
Can you convince my knoggin that the compound won't create resistance?

 
Not sure what that product is. We were discussing oxide inhibitors.
 
That test appears to be done on tin plated copper.
I don't think that either of those metals are highly susceptible to oxidation.
 
I don't think that either of those metals are highly susceptible to oxidation.

The idea was to show that 847 can improve connection. Reason for doing it on plated copper is to take oxidation out of the equation for this. The compound (847) is a corrosion inhibitor as well and suitable for use on aluminium contacts for example.
 
The idea was to show that 847 can improve connection. Reason for doing it on plated copper is to take oxidation out of the equation for this. The compound (847) is a corrosion inhibitor as well and suitable for use on aluminium contacts for example.
Thanks, I'm not familiar with that product.
 
The idea was to show that 847 can improve connection. Reason for doing it on plated copper is to take oxidation out of the equation for this. The compound (847) is a corrosion inhibitor as well and suitable for use on aluminium contacts for example.
Application of an Anti-Oxidizer on threads is inappropriate until AFTER proper torque is achieved.
Unless you strongly disagree with the above statement, please do not address the comment as I am almost unconfused.

So @upnorthandpersonal would you conclude, considering your experience and research, that 847 outperforms No-ox-ID, Noalox, Ox-Gard or De-Ox under normal (dry to humid) solar system electrical environments because it is an anti-oxidizer and more conductive?
I'm not trying to split hairs, just curious.

Here is some information I found worth noting "from the manufacturers" about the aforementioned products.
MG Chemicals 847
CARBON CONDUCTIVE ASSEMBLY PASTE, Date: 04 March 2020 / Ver. 1.04, Safety Data Sheet
Toxic to: Algae, daphnia magna (largest (5mm) of the fresh water crustacean genus daphina) and Fish (n)

NO-OX-ID A There are 17 different kinds of "NO-OX-ID"
SAFETY DATA SHEET, NO-OX-ID A, Product Code : 5000-N
Toxic to: Algae, Daphnia (fresh water crustaceans) and Fish (n)

Noalox Contains Zinc powder, which is conductive and toxic to Algae, daphina and fish.(n)
Safety Data Sheet, OSHA Hazard Communication Standard, 29 CFR 1910.1200. Prepared to GHS Rev 3. Revision: C, Date of issue: 08-07-18:
Avoid conditions of moisture or high humidity.

This is the product I have in hand.
OX-GARD While not claiming to be conductive, the manufacturer does state "enhances electrical and thermal conductivity".
OX-400N_TCHDAT_SDS.pdf, Ox-Gard Anti-oxidant Compound
Incompatible Products: Acids. Oxidizing agents
Possibility of Hazardous Reactions: Mixture reacts slowly with water resulting in evolution of hydrogen
Toxic to: Algae, daphnia magna (largest (5mm) of the fresh water crustacean genus daphina) and Fish (n)
Contains Zinc powder, which is mentioned numerous times in the SDS.

De-Ox This may or may not be the product mentioned by timselectric.
ILSCO X-1000, Safety Data Sheet
May cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.(n)
 
Howdy UE, welcome to the party.

That will work great on my vehicle batteries which are Lead-Acid but if I ever need to do that to a LiFePO4, you will see a grown man cry.
They joined the forum 30 minutes ago. Evidently, just to drum up customers.
 
Back
Top