Daly (?) 200a 12v 4s Smart BMS (with Bluetooth) from Ali...

[RyanNicholas]

Help! This is the BMS that I ordered with my cells from Alibaba. I was told it was Daly brand, but I don't see their name on it anywhere. It didn't come with an instruction manual. When I Google "Daly R05W-FL22", I get nothing. I really need to assemble this battery today... Does anyone have the instructions for this? I know I can go off the numerous videos online with similar models, but since this is my first run, I'd really like to actually have instructions.

If nobody has a link to the manual, then maybe someone could tell me about the Bluetooth. First of all, it's a 6-pin connector and there are 2 6-pin ports... One that says UART (unsure what that is) and the other next to the "monitor" port. Also, where do I get the software to connect via Bluetooth from my phone?

Thanks for any assistance here!

 

[kl3vr]

mine's the same, they say its a daly chip/board just unbranded. the limited Daly manual applies. your supplier should be able to send you the manuals or google "daly smart bms manual"

 

[RyanNicholas]

mine's the same, they say its a daly chip/board just unbranded. the limited Daly manual applies. your supplier should be able to send you the manuals or google "daly smart bms manual"

So you have the same model? Is yours working properly? I'm not entirely sure which of the two 6-pin ports to plug the Bluetooth into.. Right now it's in the UART port. Is that right? I'm not seeing it show up on my phone's BT scan...

Also, how do I know if the thing is working? There's no power indicator or light (although maybe I'm an idiot and there isn't supposed to be? Lol)... I don't want to plug it into a power source if it's not working right. I'm a real newbie here.

 

[kl3vr]

I get the trepidation. Theres no indicator light, probably to reduce standby current. the UART port is right for the BT adapter. You should follow the procedure in the manual for connecting everything. I'm no expert, my first BMS as well, but here is what I did:

Batteries should be charged up, top balanced, and now assembled into the configuration you want.
Connect the balance wires to the battery.
Check each balance lead at the connector for the expected voltage. ex. 0v black, then 3.3v, 6.6v, 9.9v, 13.2v for each lead moving away from the black wire. I initially screwed up mine and was glad I checked the order.
Connect the B- to battery.
Connect the balance leads to the BMS
Check resistance from P- to B-, should be 0 ohms
Short the "key" pins to wake up the BMS. The "key" is on the other opposite side of the BMS to the UART connector, look for a 2 pin connector.
Check for voltage from B+ to P-, should be full battery voltage.
After a minute check in your Smart BMS app for a new bluetooth device. it wont show in your phone's bluetooth settings, only in the app.

 

[kl3vr]

here's what was provided to me

 

[RyanNicholas]

I get the trepidation. Theres no indicator light, probably to reduce standby current. the UART port is right for the BT adapter. You should follow the procedure in the manual for connecting everything. I'm no expert, my first BMS as well, but here is what I did:

Batteries should be charged up, top balanced, and now assembled into the configuration you want.
Connect the balance wires to the battery.
Check each balance lead at the connector for the expected voltage. ex. 0v black, then 3.3v, 6.6v, 9.9v, 13.2v for each lead moving away from the black wire. I initially screwed up mine and was glad I checked the order.
Connect the B- to battery.
Connect the balance leads to the BMS
Check resistance from P- to B-, should be 0 ohms
Short the "key" pins to wake up the BMS. The "key" is on the other opposite side of the BMS to the UART connector, look for a 2 pin connector.
Check for voltage from B+ to P-, should be full battery voltage.
After a minute check in your Smart BMS app for a new bluetooth device. it wont show in your phone's bluetooth settings, only in the app.

My problem, though, is that they are not at full charge. I only have a 5 amp charging unit and I've only had a couple of days to try and get my act together before hitting the road again. I tried charging each cell with my 5 amp bench power supply at 3.6 volts, but it was taking so long on each one that I finally gave up and decided to take the other route others have recommended which is to assemble the battery fully in series so I can then plug it into a stronger 12 volt charger and allow the BMS to stop the charge when first cell tops out (and then reconnect the cells in parallel overnight so they can top balance). But now I feel stuck because according to the same documents I received, the battery has to be fully charged in order to activate the BMS. So it seems I'm in a bit of a catch-22 about the whole thing. Or maybe you can clarify what you mean about shorting the key pins? I don't understand that part.

Just to clarify, after attempting to charge the cells individually I did go back to connecting them all in parallel with the bench unit connected to the - and + (on the first and last cell, respectively) overnight, to establish the best cell balance I could before connecting them in series.

Since I'm about to drive down into Mexico, I've considered maybe just connecting the alternator isolator kit thing I have to this newly built battery to fully charge it. Or I could just take it to an auto parts store and have them plug it overnight into a stronger battery charger. But with either of these options, I need to know the BMS is fully functional so the so with the highest charge doesn't get damaged. I'm pretty new to all this but from what I've learned so far, these are the details I understand to be important.

Thank you for engaging with the thread and let's please keep it going!

 

[kl3vr]

I had never heard that my battery needed to be fully charged to activate my bms... so I just went ahead and hooked everything up (series) to do my first charge, then disassembled to put in parallel with 3.6v charger to top balance, then re-assembled in series for final install. again, not an expert, but I would also take chinese translated manuals with a grain of salt and pay more attention to knowledgeable DIY'ers like Will's videos and that was not a detail I ever recall hearing him say. they could be just saying the battery needs to have some charge? like the cells cant be already below the cutoff voltage?

I had to short the 2 pins to turn on the BMS, it didnt turn on on its own and I was getting no voltage through until I touched the pins with a screwdriver. Post

 

[RyanNicholas]

OK so in the next to last sentence in my last full paragraph, I meant to say "so the *cell* with the highest charge doesn't get damaged".

^^&that's still my big concern was trying to charge these in series before top balancing, without any indication from the BMS that it's active and functioning. Maybe I should try shorting those two pins, but I admit I feel a bit wary about that.

 

[kl3vr]

those two pins are there for this reason. when you get the BT turned on and can see the settings through the app, you'll get a bit more confidence in the BMS.

 

[Just John]

I didn't have to short pins to wake mine up. Make sure balance leads are connected correctly and plug them in last (they supply power to the BMS). UART (universal asynchronous receiver transmitter) is the correct port for the Bluetooth adapter, I had mine connected when I plugged in the balance leads, that may or may not make a difference. On Android, look for "Smart BMS" by Daly, install, open it up and look for a random device name to connect to.

 

[kl3vr]

I didn't have to short pins to wake mine up. Make sure balance leads are connected correctly and plug them in last (they supply power to the BMS). UART (universal asynchronous receiver transmitter) is the correct port for the Bluetooth adapter, I had mine connected when I plugged in the balance leads, that may or may not make a difference. On Android, look for "Smart BMS" by Daly, install, open it up and look for a random device name to connect to.

View attachment 35723

is that SOC accurate John? mine shows 70% at fully charged still.

 

[Just John]

is that SOC accurate John? mine shows 70% at fully charged still.

No, it's not accurate and I haven't figured out how to set it correctly. It is also off on amps drawn/charged by about 10%. The low voltage disconnect and high voltage disconnect work, as does the temperature disconnect (just remember that Daly appears to set temperature to dangerous values, and voltages to values I would not use). I don't plan on using the SOC from the BMS anyway, I will use a shunt based meter.

 

[kl3vr]

yea, I've ordered a Juntek shunt meter but kind of a bummer the app's SOC doesnt work. Glad I'm not the only one having this issue though.

 

[RyanNicholas]

here's what was provided to me

Thank you for responding with these! Since I posted this original thread, the Ali dealer actually did get back to me with the same documents.

At this point I'm waiting to get out of this snow storm and head further south before I finish figuring out this BMS thing. So far, my BMS app still hasn't recognized the Bluetooth, but at least I could try shorting the pins to activate it. I'll keep you posted!

 

[RyanNicholas]

Hey hey hey... just got down to a warmer spot and touched a small piece of copper wire to those two pins. The device pops right up in the smart BMS app! Now I could probably use a little bit of sage advice on what the best parameter settings are for this battery setup... thanks to everyone for engaging here!

 

[RyanNicholas]

Akkk! I just got this when I tried to change a parameter... No idea about any password ???

 

[Just John]

Akkk! I just got this when I tried to change a parameter... No idea about any password ???

123456

 

[Just John]

Hey hey hey... just got down to a warmer spot and touched a small piece of copper wire to those two pins. The device pops right up in the smart BMS app! Now I could probably use a little bit of sage advice on what the best parameter settings are for this battery setup... thanks to everyone for engaging here!

Certainly the first thing I did was change the cell volt high protect from 3.75 to 3.65, and cell low volt protect from 2.2 to 2.5.
Chg low temp protect from -40°C to 5°C.

 

[RyanNicholas]

Certainly the first thing I did was change the cell volt high protect from 3.75 to 3.65, and cell low volt protect from 2.2 to 2.5.
Chg low temp protect from -40°C to 5°C.

Yes, those were the first things I did too. And I thought to try 123456 too, and it worked. Thank you ?

For some reason it's letting me change various parameters but when I try to set a change on the 'sum volt high protect', it won't change it (from 14.6 to 14.5) no matter how many times I press the set button. Weird. But anyway, I'm very curious what the best advice is on the other parameters as well.

 

[RyanNicholas]

For example, what's the ideal discharge temperature range? And the maximum current for charge / discharge?