diy solar

diy solar

Dc mini breaker confusion

After several days of the system being off.
I can verify the breaker is working properly.
I have 150ish volts coming into the breaker.
0v leaving the other end of the breaker.
This is what I was trying to accomplish the whole time.
I want to be able to stop power going into my unit at any given time.
The 50v I was reading previously was backfed from the growatt itself.
 

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Of course caps can hold voltage. I watch mine discharge, relatively fast. I think that is designed in as a safety feature.
Off-brands maybe not.

Yeah a good designed should have a 5k or 10k resistor across the cap terminals to drain them when powered off.
But that is probably too much of an expense in many controllers :ROFLMAO:
 
If your voltage 'drained' somehow or another, you don't have anything to worry about other than to remember that just because you've flipped the breaker off doesn't mean there is instantly 0 volts on the other side. You either need to measure and wait until it drops to a safe level before touching it, or just come back later. It would help to measure the voltage 'rate of change' at least once just so you can ballpark how long you have to leave it alone before it drops to a low enough voltage to stop worrying about it.

And check both AC and DC volts to be safe. Arguably 50v DC is already unlikely to hurt you, but i still avoid touching it and there is a thread going on elsewhere where someone recently recounted some slight nerve damage in a finger gotten from a ~48v system. But there could be AC volts on there too, so just check both, establish a rough timeline of how long you need to let it 'drain' until you're comfortable touching it, and then use that info for all future occasions that you have to work on it. And preferably still verify with a meter anyway, because everything works the way it usually does, until it doesn't. ?
 
Transformerless grid-tie inverters are capable of coupling AC onto the PV wires.
They are supposed to disconnect when not operating, but that is just transistors, and relays controlled by electronics. Not something you should trust your life to, so disconnect AC sources.

When transformerless GT PV inverter is connected to split-phase (e.g. 120/240V), no AC is seen. When connected to single phase (e.g. 277V or 230V L to N), or two legs of 3-phase (e.g. 208V), the PV wires will have a fairly constant DC between them, but will move with AC relatively to ground/neutral.
 
If your voltage 'drained' somehow or another, you don't have anything to worry about other than to remember that just because you've flipped the breaker off doesn't mean there is instantly 0 volts on the other side. You either need to measure and wait until it drops to a safe level before touching it, or just come back later. It would help to measure the voltage 'rate of change' at least once just so you can ballpark how long you have to leave it alone before it drops to a low enough voltage to stop worrying about it.

And check both AC and DC volts to be safe. Arguably 50v DC is already unlikely to hurt you, but i still avoid touching it and there is a thread going on elsewhere where someone recently recounted some slight nerve damage in a finger gotten from a ~48v system. But there could be AC volts on there too, so just check both, establish a rough timeline of how long you need to let it 'drain' until you're comfortable touching it, and then use that info for all future occasions that you have to work on it. And preferably still verify with a meter anyway, because everything works the way it usually does, until it doesn't. ?
That’s actually a great test and idea. I’m going to test that next time I power down the system. Thankyou very much.
 
Hopefully I can use these mc4 kits as I hoped lol it was a whole 30ish dollars spent.
Depends on the brand.

I personally proved the cheapies leak water and corrode inside with multiple replacements.

One cheapie brand that worked for me (over a year later and no failures) was Bouge RV. I bought a gazillion pairs and changed every one. Because I also proved mixing ‘brands’ also leak and the cheap brands have even been ferrous (magnet proves it).

Use a proper ‘B’ crimper and you’ll be fine.
Still don't have proper tool for MC4,
That really surprised me!
 
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One cheapie brand that worked for me (over a year later and no failures) was Bouge RV. I bought a gazillion pairs and changed every one. Because I also proved mixing ‘brands’ also leak and the cheap brands have even been ferrous (magnet proves it).
As I did. The key is to keep all connectors the same brand and check them at least yearly.
Although MC4 connectors are supposed to be compatible I've found them not to be.
It might have taken a year but after seeing PV production drop I opened up the connectors and all the "mismatched" MC4s (original panel connectors to Bouge RV) had corroded to some extent, some pretty badly.
 
Use a proper ‘B’ crimper and you’ll be fine.
(Still don't have proper tool for MC4)

That really surprised me!

Actually, I've never crimped an MC4. I bought a batch of MC3, because someone had cut all the connectors off a lot of panels.
It was from my experience with them that I said, "Make sure pins are correct size for the wire, and boots correct size for insulation.)

All the rest of my MC connections, whether 3 or 4, are either with pre-made extension cables or with pre-made cables I cut in half to make pigtails coming out of boxes. So I'm subject to component and assembly quality of whoever made them. I was working on stuff before it was figured out that MC4 doesn't mate to all MC4 reliably, and UL Listing required tested pairs of brands, and PV panel labels reflected that.

I preferred MC3. Nice machined pins. MC4 looks like the cheapest rolled sheetmetal contacts possible, suitable for Molex connectors inside an appliance. I think quality contacts would be something like hardened and tempered beryllium copper. But even those sometimes aren't manufactured correctly, as figured out from field failures. Contacts have a spec for range (tolerance) of pin sizes they accept, and how much they spring back.

I may yet experience overheated or corroded MC connectors, but hasn't happened so far. Relatively mild weather here. In a place like my mountain property where everything rusts, could be different.

I have ratchet crimper with many other die types, and Harbor Freight hydraulic for larger cables. Need to get a ferrule crimper.

It might have taken a year but after seeing PV production drop I opened up the connectors and all the "mismatched" MC4s (original panel connectors to Bouge RV) had corroded to some extent, some pretty badly.

Maybe dielectric grease between boot and insulation, and mating surface of boots, is the thing to do.

But certainly don't want ferrous contacts, and drop in production must mean severe heating of connectors (or else some strings completely open).
 
Depends on the brand.

I personally proved the cheapies leak water and corrode inside with multiple replacements.

One cheapie brand that worked for me (over a year later and no failures) was Bouge RV. I bought a gazillion pairs and changed every one. Because I also proved mixing ‘brands’ also leak and the cheap brands have even been ferrous (magnet proves it).

Use a proper ‘B’ crimper and you’ll be fine.

That really surprised me!
I’m using bougerv lol that’s funny
 
Maybe dielectric grease between boot and insulation, and mating surface of boots, is the thing to do.
I figured out the water ingress problem I had was the rubber compression sleeves do not necessarily pass their claimed IP67
I resorted to squirting lexel into the cable-end of the MC4s and than screwing down the collet/nut which produced squeeze out. No problems with the Bouge after sealing them; their o-ring side works fine.
But certainly don't want ferrous contacts, and drop in production must mean severe heating of connectors (or else some strings completely open).
Ya, Bouge was less money than the plated steel MC4s but they neither leak nor attract pesky magnets
 
Corrosive is optional
That’s probably not at the local hardware store LOL

I’m wondering- since it is also labeled, “adhesive”- if it stays stuck nicely. I may buy some for fun.

The typical hardware store and builder’s ‘silicone’ is incredibly undependable in my experience. Caulking that survives 20 years of Vermont weather or works well below the waterline on boats is sorta my criteria.

Hardware store silicone has failed to perform for me too often; I don’t think I’ve bought any in 20 years or more other than as bedding for glass or hard plastic (not for waterproofing anything). Lexel is a quick-fix that works well, sticks to wet surfaces, and sticks really well. Polyurethane caulking might as well be considered ‘permanent.’
 
That’s probably not at the local hardware store LOL

I’m wondering- since it is also labeled, “adhesive”- if it stays stuck nicely. I may buy some for fun.

The typical hardware store and builder’s ‘silicone’ is incredibly undependable in my experience. Caulking that survives 20 years of Vermont weather or works well below the waterline on boats is sorta my criteria.

Hardware store silicone has failed to perform for me too often; I don’t think I’ve bought any in 20 years or more other than as bedding for glass or hard plastic (not for waterproofing anything). Lexel is a quick-fix that works well, sticks to wet surfaces, and sticks really well. Polyurethane caulking might as well be considered ‘permanent.’
I use lexel for glueing down retaining wall blocks. That stuff is great.
 
Caulking that survives 20 years of Vermont weather or works well below the waterline on boats is sorta my criteria.
I tried some 3M 5200 adhesive sealant one time (never worked on boats or been to Vermont) and it was tenacious and impressive. Also so sticky and messy it was a real double-edged sword to use. :ROFLMAO:

But.. get this. I drilled a hole into a carburetor body to get to an internal check ball that was stuck and i couldn't get the pressed in plug over it out non-destructively, so i drilled into the housing from the other direction, got the ball free, and plugged that hole with the 5200. That hole sees fuel 100% of the time.. and it's been holding up for years.
 
I tried some 3M 5200 adhesive sealant one time (never worked on boats or been to Vermont) and it was tenacious and impressive. Also so sticky and messy it was a real double-edged sword to use. :ROFLMAO:

But.. get this. I drilled a hole into a carburetor body to get to an internal check ball that was stuck and i couldn't get the pressed in plug over it out non-destructively, so i drilled into the housing from the other direction, got the ball free, and plugged that hole with the 5200. That hole sees fuel 100% of the time.. and it's been holding up for years.
Woah lol that is impressive. I know 3m makes decent products but this blew my mind.
 
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