diy solar

diy solar

Dongguan Lighting: Purchase 280AH LiFePo4 cells. Purchase & Review

Igor, my understanding is the same as Gazoo's on these points. BLS is a seller of batteries, not a manufacturer.

A few general notes about grey market sellers:
- It is somewhat common for sellers to represent themselves as manufacturers or factories or at least hint at it, the vast majority do not produce anything.
- It is common for sellers to represent non-grade A cells as grade A cells to the point that the term is not a very useful indicator in most cases.
- It is common for resellers to represent cells as "matched" usually this means they take a minute or two to check the voltage and internal resistance with a meter. It is not the same as what the industry means when they discuss 'matched cells'.
- Language and cultural barriers/differences also play a role in confusion / misleading info.
 
Last edited:
no insult: but you need to do a lot more studying
Same here!!

Cells are to be used during charge to maximal 4.2 v
That is, at 0.5 C rate charging.
I hope I don't have to explain the difference between charging voltage and voltage being charged.

After disconnect, voltage will drop quickly, in a few days down to 3.45v.
Yes, under the 3.65, still 100% charged.

Why does everyone advise to stop at 3.65?

If you ever witnessed the rapid increase in voltage after the reached 3.5v you know why.
Up to 3.5v takes hours, beyond minutes to reach 3.65 and over.

Will you damage your cell by charging above 3.65?
No. Not directly. You can stretch up to 4.2v before damage occurs.

Yet, charging to 100% is already destructive for the cell.
Best to stay around 90%


Bottom Balance
Most BMS stop at 2.5v.
Like they stop at 3.65v
Doesn't mean it's damaging to go little under or over!!

For LiFePO4 it's 2.0 as bottom, not 2.5v
Again, if you ever have witnessed how fast the voltage drops under 2.8v (or even 3v) ..

There is "no" additional charge beyond 3.65, and "no" additional discharge beyond 2.5v
"No" is not nothing.
Perhaps 0.5Ah if you stretch/squeeze it.

Having your LiFePO4 cells at 2.0v is just as damaging as having then at 2.5v.
LiFePO4 doesn't like fully charge or discharge.
There is no additional damage at 2.0 or 2.5v

For the people who aren't watching like a hawk their cells when doing initial Balance, the first balancing action to get your new, or already used cells in line to start building your pack..

If you are active member of the forum long enough you know how many users damaged their cells (bloating) during the top Balance...
Most users don't have special lithium charger capable of 3.65v.
Or BMS that handled 1 cell.

Yet, to balance the initial pack, it's going to be one long row in parallel.
Like one massive "3.2v" (nominal voltage) cell.

With this, one is "asking for trouble" and often getting it!

Alternative of top Balance is bottom Balance.
Discharge. Resistor, lightbulb, you name it what is available for you to use.

Funny fact, going below 2.8 goes slower then charging above 3.51.
With the same charge or discharge you have more hours time to stop after that "elbow"
Most people have work or sleep at night, they don't have time to look every few minutes.
That means that the cells will be unattended for hours and hours.

And that is where the trouble start.

For the initial balance, bottom balancing is a lot safer then top balancing.
To many users already have the scars to proof this.

For normal usage, yes I stay between 10 and 90%.
And I don't even need to top/bottom balance at all!
With my active balancer it's always being corrected without much loss.
Moving energy always cost.
Few watts a day. Still.. cost :)
Any BMS will cost also, most probably more.
For me, that is the best way to go.
After the initial balance to get the cells in the same line.
And that initial balance best can be bottom balance, what is a lot safer for your cells then top balancing.
Unless you spend $$$ for special charger to use 1 time and special BMS to use 1 time.
Most people aren't building may battery array's :)
 
@Gazoo and @ dzl,
Thank you for your replays.
I saw some advertisements on alibaba from a seller that stated in there specs that BLS was the manufacturer.
Also one add from a seller EVE.

If i go on Aliexpress the links BLS provided are cheap one page sites, and yes they have also different price ranges.
My apologies, i wrote in thick letters "are", yes that is somewhat confusing:
----They have the same manufacturer or are the same manufacturer.----
To all, i recently discovered that EVE and BLS have or are the same manufacturer...Both sell what they discripe: new, A grade or A grade or otherwise....


Second apologizes: yes the posts are somewhat dated, i had to pay more attention.
In my defense: this is to interesting for me because i really would like to buy some.
(just compare me with a puppy that is glad that his owner is coming home)

I am aware of the facts that most "grey" (re) sellers are dealing in old and even second hand cells.
They could be very good.
In my understanding if the IR still matches the factory IR or is not much off (max 10%) they will be good.
In my understanding the IR and the capacity are connected to each other.
If the cells where: at a new capacity of 300ah with a sertain (?) IR and the IR would be just 5% higher, i would not mind, same for the capacity.
It would imply ~285ah left from the original capacity, 95% soh.
Little bit short sited, but this is what i found out after testing 10.000plus li ion 18650 cells.
Cheap has its reasons.
Thanks for the answers, with best.
 
Same here!!

Cells are to be used during charge to maximal 4.2 v
That is, at 0.5 C rate charging.
I hope I don't have to explain the difference between charging voltage and voltage being charged.

After disconnect, voltage will drop quickly, in a few days down to 3.45v.
Yes, under the 3.65, still 100% charged.

Why does everyone advise to stop at 3.65?

If you ever witnessed the rapid increase in voltage after the reached 3.5v you know why.
Up to 3.5v takes hours, beyond minutes to reach 3.65 and over.

Will you damage your cell by charging above 3.65?
No. Not directly. You can stretch up to 4.2v before damage occurs.

Yet, charging to 100% is already destructive for the cell.
Best to stay around 90%


Bottom Balance
Most BMS stop at 2.5v.
Like they stop at 3.65v
Doesn't mean it's damaging to go little under or over!!

For LiFePO4 it's 2.0 as bottom, not 2.5v
Again, if you ever have witnessed how fast the voltage drops under 2.8v (or even 3v) ..

There is "no" additional charge beyond 3.65, and "no" additional discharge beyond 2.5v
"No" is not nothing.
Perhaps 0.5Ah if you stretch/squeeze it.

Having your LiFePO4 cells at 2.0v is just as damaging as having then at 2.5v.
LiFePO4 doesn't like fully charge or discharge.
There is no additional damage at 2.0 or 2.5v

For the people who aren't watching like a hawk their cells when doing initial Balance, the first balancing action to get your new, or already used cells in line to start building your pack..

If you are active member of the forum long enough you know how many users damaged their cells (bloating) during the top Balance...
Most users don't have special lithium charger capable of 3.65v.
Or BMS that handled 1 cell.

Yet, to balance the initial pack, it's going to be one long row in parallel.
Like one massive "3.2v" (nominal voltage) cell.

With this, one is "asking for trouble" and often getting it!

Alternative of top Balance is bottom Balance.
Discharge. Resistor, lightbulb, you name it what is available for you to use.

Funny fact, going below 2.8 goes slower then charging above 3.51.
With the same charge or discharge you have more hours time to stop after that "elbow"
Most people have work or sleep at night, they don't have time to look every few minutes.
That means that the cells will be unattended for hours and hours.

And that is where the trouble start.

For the initial balance, bottom balancing is a lot safer then top balancing.
To many users already have the scars to proof this.

For normal usage, yes I stay between 10 and 90%.
And I don't even need to top/bottom balance at all!
With my active balancer it's always being corrected without much loss.
Moving energy always cost.
Few watts a day. Still.. cost :)
Any BMS will cost also, most probably more.
For me, that is the best way to go.
After the initial balance to get the cells in the same line.
And that initial balance best can be bottom balance, what is a lot safer for your cells then top balancing.
Unless you spend $$$ for special charger to use 1 time and special BMS to use 1 time.
Most people aren't building may battery array's :)
Exactly where are you getting the statement that LiFePO4 cells are designed to be charged to 4.2V?
That goes against every data sheet I have seen for them.

Li-Ion batteries like 18650s are designed to be charged to 4.2V, but they are not the same as LFP cells/batteries.
 
Exactly where are you getting the statement that LiFePO4 cells are designed to be charged to 4.2V?
That goes against every data sheet I have seen for them.

Li-Ion batteries like 18650s are designed to be charged to 4.2V, but they are not the same as LFP cells/batteries.
maybe he needs to watch this
 
Hi,

Just received this from "Don Juan":

Hello friend,

This is Hayley here from Dongguan Lightning Energy Technology Co.,Ltd. We are specialized in exported Lithium battery like 18650/21700/LTO/lifepo4 battery .

For now our company have a cash back activity is that if you buy the batteries from us and some conditional are satisfied we
will return some cash to you . If this product meet your demand,please contact us for further information.We sure that your any
inquiry or requirement will get prompt attention.

Can’t wait to received your reply

Best regards.​



H0b86f29e486246c08392b399edbf3206E.jpg
Free Shipping 8pcs/pack 3.2V Prismatic Lifepo4 Lishen 272Ah 280Ah Backup Power Solar Battery for DIY 12V 24V 48V Battery Pack

16 Piece(s) US $ 75​

Total Price: US $ 1200​

Sounds pretty good.

dRdoS7
 
Hi,

Just received this from "Don Juan":



Sounds pretty good.

dRdoS7
Hello,
I order this cells pack (16 cells/280Ah) from this supplier on Alibaba store. Same contact (Hayley, very carefull and customer helpful), very clear and helpful contact, good communication.
More than 2,5 months for being delivered from China to France (mainly due to Covid-19 alert), good cells, well balanced (0,017v voltage difference at delivery).
Only screwing issue as the screwing thread is not s much long inside the cell, after 3 or 4 complete screwing/unscrewing on 1 cell, the thread is damaged and need to be more carefuuly screwed inside.
Most competitiv price I had on Alibaba store (14 supplier answer for this king of cells pack - 16S/280Ah).
 
Hi,

Only screwing issue as the screwing thread is not s much long inside the cell, after 3 or 4 complete screwing/unscrewing on 1 cell, the thread is damaged and need to be more carefuuly screwed inside.

You should probably change to long grub screws/studs & nuts.

dRdoS7
 
So, after working through this entire thread in a continued effort to learn what I need to learn in order to build my own 24v, 280ah bank for my Sprinter build, I feel confident I want to do this top balancing of my (yet to be purchased) cells. I gather that I need a "charger" and/or a "power supply" as well as a fairly good quality multi-meter. Can anyone point me towards a source for these and recommendations for someone who's only goal is to get this thing built and built right.... in other words I don't need top of the line and if it is possible to rent/borrow the more expensive tools needed, I'd gladly do that. However, I suspect that with the build I plan to do the multi-meter might see more use than I'm imagining right now. This thread, while my eyes did glaze over a few times, was immensely helpful!
 
Hi,



You should probably change to long grub screws/studs & nuts.

dRdoS7
In fact it is not the crew/studs which is KO, it is the thread inside the cell, so I try to make carefully another bigger thread and use a M8 screw in place of n M6 screw
 
Hi,

In fact it is not the crew/studs which is KO, it is the thread inside the cell, so I try to make carefully another bigger thread and use a M8 screw in place of n M6 screw

It would, hopefully, prevent more getting damaged. The grub screws/studs go further into the terminal, so there's a bit more thread being used.

dRdoS7
 
Anyone knows what happened with the prices ?
I bought my 17 pcs 280Ah pack for $1950 (DDP to EU) in November.
And now a 16pcs pack costs $2650 ?!
 
Yes, battery prices creep up and Shipping rates went up 2-3 times since November.
Some suppliers have become less reliable and so try to make more $$ on the fewer number of cells they do have.
 
I see ... cell prize from $90 to $125.
4 pcs $500 + delivery, or with DDP delivery to EU $762
Even now with 13% discount the $2305 prize is +25% since November.
Toyota promises solid state batteries ... that will bring down LFP prices.
 
Back
Top