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EAsun MLV 3KW-U hybrid off grid solar inverter 1st week review and updated for 1 year of usage.

Mattb4

Solar Wizard
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NW AR
EAsun MLV 3KW-U Off grid Hybrid review. 3000W, 120vAC output at either 50 or 60hz. Maximum 100VDc input to 60a MPPT controller. 1400W total Solar. Max 80a AC charging.

I bought this inverter off EAsun’s website under the USA tab at $449 with a 10% off plus free shipping. They did not charge me sales tax. It arrived at my home in just 3 days. So no problem with order or shipping.

Installed it Aug 7th 2022. The setup at the beginning of my trial was:

6-100w solar panels wired 2S3P for around 45Voc
2-100ah AGM batteries wired in series for 24vDC
20a, 120vAC circuit from house system
AC out was to a sub-panel feeding selected loads.

My loads are a 12 cuft upright freezer (no defrost) that has ~70w when running with about 1.4kwh/day
My computer and LTE router setup at about 50w. (It gets turned off after 10 pm back on at 6 am)
The EAsun itself consumes 50w to 100w from what I can figure.
Misc LED lights that get switched on briefly during daytime. Plus alarm clock and security camera video recorder. Probably not more than 30w.
Based on the output panel of the EAsun it seems to run about 1.2 to 1.3 amps at 120vAC

My settings are SBU (Solar →Battery →Utility) for daytime and I manually switch to UTI (utility power preferred - UPS function) about 6-8 pm, I turn the unit back to SBU in the morning about 6 am. I have set my max charge current at 30 amps , and charge from utility at 35 amps. I adopted this practice to minimize battery cycles from nighttime draw.

Because of my forested and south slope location I do not get any appreciable Solar power until about 10 am. This time of year at about 6 pm is the end of watt gathering for the day.

Running in SBU I find that my battery drops to 50% SOC after about 6-8 hours if it is the only supply. It takes most of a full sun day to recharge it while supplying loads. Due to this I tried out just the SOL (solar preferred → utility) setting for a day. I found it resulted in too much switching between utility and solar as things like clouds interrupted production. I can not run the SBU setting overnight without having the battery reach low enough that utility power would have to start charging it. I don’t want the extra battery cycles or the loading on AC.

Some things I found problematic were the display screens of usage and various outputs. They give many outputs in kW instead of watts. Since it only displays two decimal place (0.00kW) it clips off anything less than 10 watts. There is no AC output reading in watts just kVA nor is there any cumulative watts in versus out type display. Would be handy to have a total watt-hr from solar as displayed item. Having to cycle through several screens to get information that should be combined is not the best design.

I also found that I could not set the "Low battery voltage" switch to utility power (#4) to what I wanted using the EAsun “Set” button. It was stuck at 21.8vDC. I had to download a monitor program for my computer from SRNE v1.6 and figure out how to get it setup and connected before I was able to set my desired voltage (24.2v but had to used 12.1v (it doubles) in the program because of how it handles battery settings). I find that the software monitor program is not worth bothering with otherwise. It does not tell me anything in a way I find useful. Not to mention the power needed to keep it operating. (1/28/23 update: Number 4 setting is a pain since it will revert to lower voltage if you change any voltage parameter in the other settings and can not be altered without the external software program.)

Another issue found is LED light flicker when running off of inverter. Did not notice it at first (I was not looking for it) but once I did it is unmistakable. Minor annoyance. Though perhaps major to some people.

Improvements that I made after a few days was to change my solar panel array to 3S2P for higher voltage. (67Voc) This seemed to give more delivered wattage for longer during the day and a higher overall wattage. This Easun MPPT just seems to like a higher input voltage. It does say in the specs that minimum input is 30vDC. With this new arrangement I observed 470w at peak solar time. Whereas with the initial array voltage setup I maxed out at 400w.

I tried running more charging current to the battery from a second MPPT (Makeskyblue) 30a controller connected up to another 2-100w panels and wired to the battery. This caused the EAsun unit to lose MPPT lock and cycle up and down wattage output to zero repeatedly plus give an alarm beep every few seconds*. I discontinued that promptly. If I need more battery charging current from solar I will have to add more panels to the array.

One improvement I would truly love to have in an off grid hybrid AIO would be a system clock with timer settings where you could set it to change from SBU to UTI morning and evening. This would make sense for how solar is generated. Strange that this is not a standard feature for AIO’s. Heck being able to set when the batteries could be charged by utility would help those folks that have a reduced kwh price at certain times of the day.

Overall I am not dissatisfied with how it works. Especially at the price point. I would however consider going to a better quality unit if any of them put in programmable timing. Seems any of the better quality off grid AIO’s are all high KW output and 48vDC which makes them expensive and unnecessary for those that needs that can be handled with less. As to will it last? Time will tell.

* The alarm beep seems to be from the unit detecting solar input and losing it in the early morning. Not noticeable when the Voc was wired lower since it took later in the day to get enough voltage from the sun to engage.

8/14/22 Edit:
Another observation is case fans will run continuously whenever there is a greater than 200w solar input is occurring. It does not seem to matter the temperature.
 
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Made a change in battery today at approaching the 3 week period of using this inverter. I have added an 80ah 24vDC LiFePO4 to replace my previous 100ah AGM batteries. I had charged the Li battery up before hand and shutdown and isolated the EAsun from all sources (panels switch off, AC supply breaker off, Solar panel breaker off (PV) and than disconnected the lead batteries. After connecting in the Li and regaining all the other sources I changed the programing for battery type to lithium (L08) and adjusted charging parameters. All seemed good but being morning there was no PV input.

As the sun starting hitting the panels an abnormality was presented on the display panel. There was no indicated incoming wattage (Solar volts stayed at Voc). Not sure if this was a problem but I tried cycling off and on the PV input and it would not draw any solar power. At this point I decide to wait a bit later in the morning to see if more sunlight would change things. It did not.

My final try was to de-energise the entire inverter and disconnect the Li battery . I then waited for several minutes to allow things to stabilize before re-connecting the battery, turn on the inverter, PV and AC input breakers. At this point the LCD display came up and PV power began to flow as it should.

It now seems to be working OK. Not sure what the situation was that stopped PV being used.

ETA: I also changed the Solar array to 3S3P a couple of days back.

Further edit: As the battery approached and reached full charge. I noted that the PV output would cycle on and off. After awhile I again lost indication that PV was supplying wattage and all the inverter displays again is the battery supplying the load. Hard to tell if this is normal behavior or not since it did not work this way when using the AGM batteries. I guess I will needs to monitor it for awhile to figure out if something is messed up or not.

Final edit: Doing my research I found that this is not abnormal behavior. A great help was this Thread https://diysolarforum.com/threads/growatt-odd-behavior.22696/

Seems that the SCC unit is programmed to shutoff after charging lithium batteries to protect against overcharge. AGM batteries can be maintained with a trickle charge so that some current can always be sent from the SCC to them to keep it on.

9/2/22: Several of the voltage settings in the inverter can only be altered through the SRNE monitoring program running on external Windows computer. Changes made at the inverter do not stick. To get the most out of this thing you need to tweak the various voltages.

9/3/22: The unit inaccurately reports current both to the battery (usually off by 4 or more amps high) and the PV current which is off 1/3rd high. I got to wondering when my panels were claiming to be putting out over 90w (hit 830w with 9-100w panels) each when in previous usage I never exceeded 80w and more commonly 70-75w ea. Once I put on the clamp on meter I got readings more in line with past performance.
 
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The good:

1. It was the lowest cost off grid AIO inverter out there with a price just at the $400 point that meet US 120vAC 60hz standard and at 3000w it is adequate for my loads. With the issue that sometimes combined loads starting at the same time can momentarily cause it to go into AC bypass. At the present configuration I figure 5-6 hours solar on a sunny day, 6-8 hours battery and the remainder of the day is Utility AC.
2. It is fairly basic in terms of operation and does not need additional equipment to use beyond the normal wire/breakers/fuses/batteries/solar panels.
3. Seems to have a fairly good AC output but not perfect.
4. The unit’s SCC does a good job of pulling watts from the panels better than some stand alone units I have used. I have seen a high of 85+ watts per panel (measured via shunt) during max sun insolation periods.

The bad:

1. The ability to change some of the voltage parameters does not work at the units LCD control and have to be changed with an external software program run on a computer. There is no supplied USB cable for the connection. EAsun linked software does not work and had to grab SRNE software to do this.
2. The AC output does cause a small flicker in LED lighting. I added another 5cuft chest freezer to the loads and I noticed a strange phenomenon. Sometimes when the chest freezer cycles on or off my security camera’s monitor turns off for a few moments. It does it even when I isolate the recorder and monitor behind a computers UPS. The unit does not reboot just the monitor goes black. Funny but there is no effect on my regular computer monitor nor any UPS brief switching. A head scratcher.
3. Self consumption of the unit varies from about 50w up to over a 100w depending on load.
4. Displayed wattage/amperage is not accurate. Wattage from solar reads high but seems to be most noticeable at lower solar power panel production. Anywhere from 100w+ down to 20-40w+ at high solar levels.
4. Fans noise might bother a person. They run a lot especially over 200w solar input.
5. Default Charge profile for lithium batteries does not allow for max solar production.

9/25/22 Update: Was awakened at 2:30am with a insistent beeping from the inverter. It was displaying fault code 01 (low batt voltage alarm). The previous day had been a mostly cloudy day and I had got almost no recharge into the battery. Therefore it had switched to utility power in the early evening versus sometime in the early morning (usually around 5am). Evidently the idle draw on the battery drove it down from the transfer to Utility at 25.0vDC to the alarm setpoint I have at 24.6vDC. I had to change from OSO to SNU to get some charging from utility to clear the alarm. My conclusion is I will ahve to manually go to UTI instead just leaving the inverter at SBU during periods of low solar output and also monitor the battery voltage to prevent a low voltage situation.

10/06/22 Update: Added another 80ah battery in parallel on 10/04 after going through 2 solar charging days and nights it has carried the load without need of AC Bypass operation. Yesterday it manged a full charge by 3:30pm even with it being hazy in the afternoon. The batteries indicated after night time and before sun rise about 30-40% charge remaining. So Sucess!! I am Off grid for my critical load panel.

10/08/22 Update: Added another 3 -100w panels so that I now have 3S4P This should help as Winter cuts into the charging hours. Might consider going to 4S3P though that would be pushing the Voc to around 90v only 10v less than the inverters max.


* I have seen some people get upset with the use of hybrid to designate a non grid tie with battery backup setup. Since both house AC and the solar/battery are used as power sources, like a hybrid car that has a gas engine as well as an electric motor, I think they should go suck a lemon.
 
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Was not going to create a new post just to bump up this thread into the New posting range but I think the results today deserved it.

This morning I added another string of 3-100w panels bringing my array up to 1200w max. This is below the 1400w max the EAsun 3KW-U is rated to handle. However with the day being cool (60F) and there being some wispy thin clouds I observed during peak time the panel output hit slightly over 1100w. (measured with PV input shunt as well as at inverter control panel indication) When it did so the cooling fan on the EAsun sounding like a jet taking off. I would really hesitate to have this thing running with 1400w of panels. I think there is every chance it would be too much.

If you are considering this AIO down rate both the total PV input (1000-1200w )and also limit your AC output into the 2000-2200w range. Otherwise it might not last for very long.

ETA: one other thing. The unit quit charging from solar and would not start again. I had to totally power down before it reset. Looking through the manual I suspect what happened is the Battery over voltage set point was hit during the end of charge stage. I had noticed that battery voltages briefly spike higher than the 28.6v setting. I suspect it topped the 30v max and created the fault condition. There is no user adjustment for battery over voltage other than Battery boost voltage. I have dropped mine back to 28.4v and will see if the issue is resolved.

As an addendum to the chest freezer cycling off and causing security camera monitor to cycle off. The chest freezer seems to put quite a kick into the system when it cycles off. It will cycle the monitor even in AC pass through mode.
 
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EAsun is now offering 15% off on this inverter with free shipping. I went ahead and bought one as a spare since getting it for $382.49 is a hard to beat price.

As an update my orginal unit has been functioning flawlessly since tweaking things to my liking.
 
Got the spare EAsun AIO in yesterday and am testing it today. I had a couple of extra 12v 100ah SLD batteries to create the 24v and a couple of 200w solar panels wired in series for 44Voc. There is no AC for the AC bypass but not really needed for system check. Ac out is wired to a triple outlet cord. It is one of those with a power indication light.

Doing some testing after unit is energized I note that NG does bond* in Bypass inverter operating mode. I also did resistance checks before attaching anything. Here is the results:
N in and N out are connected
G in and G case are connected
No NG bond

Unit operating in Bypass on the inverter:
L1 to N = 120vac
L1 to G = 87vac
N to G = fractional voltage

*I am not sure why L1 to G is not 120vac. It is on my original unit that is wired up with AC in
When I use my little 3 light polarity plug it shows proper lights lit although the ground light is slightly dimmer and has a flicker to it.

If I was going to use this new unit as a strictly Off grid (no utility AC in) I would want to establish a ground via ground rod or tied to house ground.

I will update this as it goes through solar charging.

Update: Charging works good. Looks like I have a good unit to keep as spare if the main one goes down. Or perhaps create a new power source for other uses. BTW when running in power save mode the cords power indicator light stays off but pulses on briefly every 30secs. Turning on a load of a 400w heater it takes up to 30 seconds for output to come on. And after shutoff a couple of minutes for the output to go away.

11/30/22 Running the spare EAsun in power saving mode confirmed the ~50w idle draw that is in the specs. One comment I will make concerning this. With 1.2kwh needed each day to break even my 400w worth of panels and the two 12v 100ah batteries are in effect treading water. Any loading on top of this is unsustainable. So the bare minimum to make this AIO worthwhile would be twice the PV that I have it set up with. Oh BTW I made a plug to get ground from my home and wired it to the inverter. I now have L1 120v to ground.

12/2/22 The sun has reached low enough in the Horizon that my system can barely charge the batteries in a sunny day. It looks like from now until February that I will be back on grid more. Not bad results for my switch to a AIO type of platform. I used to believe that it was better to have separate components for an off grid setup. My opinion has changed in this regard. The versatility that a off grid AIO brings to the equation can not be matched although the quality and longevity is still up to time to tell.
 
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Hi,

It was interesting to read your comments. I own an EAsun SMX II 5.6kW 230V (48V) which is also an AIO produced by SRNE model HF4850S80-H. Same manual, same dimensions, weight, characteristic, protocol, location of connections. The only thing that differs is that the SRNE is announced for 5000VA and mine for 5600VA and it is surely a figure that has been inflated by EAsun. The screen of the EAsun SMX has been placed in the center for the rest they are identical.

Here is a table provided by Solar Assistant ?

1673425278518.png

So we must have an AIO that looks a bit similar even if the battery / MPPT / AC voltages are different (I'm in Europe).
Your model would be SRNE 24V HF2430U60-100.

So far mine is working fine.

Edited : 17/01/2023 - the idle consumption of the inverter is :
1673976196086.png

I connected my EAsun to Solar Assistant and I can control it remotely via MQTT commands, so I could automate switching from SBU to UTI mode automatically based on a schedule.

Concerning the parameters of the tensions, there are certain parameters which must be >= than others and it is necessary to change them of a precise order.

If I had to give a negative point: the SCC MPPT is stable from 150W to recharge the battery. On the other hand, without a charging process and only to supply the inverter, the SCC MPPT is stable much faster from a few watts. (see graph that I posted in the topics below).


Below are two posts where I give more information about my various tests :

Here is a very interesting diagram that helped me understand why charging the battery takes more power than running the inverter.
That said, for me, 200W from the PVs charges 179W in the battery, but below 150W from the PVs the charging is not stable.

High Frequency Hybrid Inverter.png

Here is my config :

Off-Grid PV system Visio.png
 
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Solar Assistant does not list my model of inverter as supported. Which is OK with me as I am not big on needing a monitor program. Your model seems to have much less idle current than mine.

Just got done this morning adding an additional battery and hooking up a 3a charger on a din rail timer control. I also added a Make Sky Blue 30a MPPT controller with another 400w of solar panels. Will see how things work together. I have previously ran a 12a charger in parallel with the AIO and it seemed to not be an issue.

The 3a charger will be used to overcome nighttime idle loss during Winter and bad weather times of operation.
 
If your AIO works with the iPower application then it is an SRNE.

iPower 2.1.2.0

It would therefore be compatible with Solar Assistant by choosing the SRNE protocol ;)

1673448934661.png
 
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Your post on your easun unit persuaded me to buy the SRNE inverter(s) as an acceptable starting AIO system. Almost cheaper than buying a 3000watt 24v inverter alone. After a couple of days I'm pretty happy. Thanks for posting about non-victron, MPP or Growatt equipment.
 
Your post on your easun unit persuaded me to buy the SRNE inverter(s) as an acceptable starting AIO system. Almost cheaper than buying a 3000watt 24v inverter alone. After a couple of days I'm pretty happy. Thanks for posting about non-victron, MPP or Growatt equipment.
What model did you buy?
 
Your post on your easun unit persuaded me to buy the SRNE inverter(s) as an acceptable starting AIO system. Almost cheaper than buying a 3000watt 24v inverter alone. After a couple of days I'm pretty happy. Thanks for posting about non-victron, MPP or Growatt equipment.
Not sure I would want to totaly rely on the EAsun if it was my only source of power and for those that need to have UL certification it would be a no go. But for a way to learn about using an off grid AIO it is hard to beat the price point of the EAsun unit.

Hope your unit exceeds your expectations.
 
Personally, I will buy a small backup inverter of 1000W or less because on an isolated site it is necessary to have a plan B. I will look for an inverter with very low no-load consumption, I could connect it to the input AC IN of the AIO. In winter, this allows the AIO to be used in bypass mode (inverter off) to reduce consumption if necessary and to operate with reduced consumption. To test...
 
Not sure I would want to totaly rely on the EAsun if it was my only source of power and for those that need to have UL certification it would be a no go. But for a way to learn about using an off grid AIO it is hard to beat the price point of the EAsun unit.

Hope your unit exceeds your expectations.
I believe mine are you well approved they're not EA son but made by srne. Also I have three of them. I only planed to have two. Price was good enough that I bought a third plus I have an 1800 watt inverter and a couple solar charge controllers as even more backup capability plus a different lower-powered all in one that I'm not certain if I'm keeping or selling
 
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Personally, I will buy a small backup inverter of 1000W or less because on an isolated site it is necessary to have a plan B. I will look for an inverter with very low no-load consumption, I could connect it to the input AC IN of the AIO. In winter, this allows the AIO to be used in bypass mode (inverter off) to reduce consumption if necessary and to operate with reduced consumption. To test...
Yeah if you're completely off grid and isolated you need many backup choices. I personally intended to only have two of these units but the price was low enough that I bought a third with my girlfriend pushing me plus I have an 1800 Watt inverter and other charge controllers plus a small 2K all in one that I can use as backups and this is at a fixed location at my house in the city. We will always have grid power we just don't want to rely completely on it plus by moving loads off of the grid we're going to lower our electric bill
 
I just noticed that JK BMS was not very accurate on low load measurement. It is necessary to calibrate it. The other measurements from 10A are correct.

So... I redid the self consumption (from battery) measurements of my EAsun SMX II 5.6kW with two different multimeters and unfortunately it consumes more than I thought. ?

SBU idle or low load: 50W
UTI bypass mode: 30W

I edited my post above.

So we have the same results with 1.2kW per day in SBU mode which is huge but probably the norm for a 5600VA inverter.

I also made some interesting discoveries regarding AC IN consumption in bypass mode. Always with a low load so at night the power factor is really very low.

Currently at home :
AC 240V
1.8A
49W
240V*1.8A=432VA
Power factor of 11.5%

Fortunately it is the Watts and not the VA that are billed.

The power factor increases and becomes better with greater load.

Charging the batteries from AC with 10A or 20A gives a power factor of 95%. For that it is OK.

This also means that I completely forget the idea of connecting a small 1200VA inverter to the AC IN input of the EAsun in bypass mode to reduce consumption at night because:

1) the bypass continues to consume 30Wh on the batteries
2) it takes 432VA for 49W load

The best will be to have two separate circuits with a little Victron Phoenix 800VA or 1200VA inverter (low idle consumption).

During the winter it will probably be necessary to switch off the EAsun during the night so as not to lose 50Wh.
 
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With your EAsun / SRNE, is it possible to charge the batteries when the inverter button is OFF and it is powered only from the PV?

For me it didn't work during my first tests, maybe there wasn't enough power to start a charge. However, the screen was on.

I know that on Voltronic inverters it is possible to use only the SCC MPPT part with the inverter OFF.
 
Consumption of Victron Phoenix inverter :

24V 3000VA : 20W
48V 800VA : 9,5W
48V 1200VA : 10W
48V 3000VA : 25W
48V 5000VA : 35W

Victron Multi RS Solar 48V 6000VA (hybrid inverter) : 20W ?
 
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