mib
New Member
as I understand it, you make changes in the morning and evening uti/sol-sbu
Do you only use a computer now?
Do you only use a computer now?
EAsun MLV 3KW-U hybrid off grid solar inverter 1st week review and updated for 1 year of usage.
- Thread starter Mattb4
- Start date
Since my increase in both solar panels and total battery bank capacity, plus the addition of a 3a battery charger on a timing circuit, I no longer switch between SBU and UTI and simply stay in SBU. I only use the SRNE software on the computer when a change to settings can not be made from the AIO control panel.
Been over 8 months now running this AIO. Several updates done to the system and additional loads added.
The setup is 2 PV arrays now, the one feeding the EAsun is 1200w consisting of 12 - 100w panels in a 3S4P arrangement to a combiner box and then to AIO. The other array is 4-200w in 2S2P panels wired to a 30a Makeskyblue SCC and than to the batteries.
The batteries are 4- 24vDC 80ah LiFePO4 wired in parallel. They can carry me easily running in SBU mode most days and nights unless a couple of days of no sun happen. At that point I usually plug in a small amperage battery charger that is wired ahead of the AIO on a timing circuit running overnight to help maintain enough charge to prevent switching to grid.
By adding a manual switching transfer control panel of my own making to the houses Main panel I have been able to add loads beyond my back bedroom and computer room that had the two freezers. My first setup was a sub panel that fed that.
The additional loads are my home lights, a refrigerator, TV and stereo system, house water pump, kitchen outlets and also outlets for other 120vAC items such as pellet stove if needed and window A/C units. Many of the kitchen appliances such as toaster, microwave, inductive cooktop, George Foreman grill, pizza oven and air fryer have all been used now to prepare my meals running off the AIO.
As a example of using the inductive cooktop I am cooking my dinner right now (started at 10:15am my time) of a large pot of turkey soup. It took 25 minutes running at around 1500w to bring to boil the 12 cups water and all the vegetables, plus cold meat, and now it is simmering at around 500w (cycles up down) for 90 minutes. When I started it off the batteries were at around 40% charge, the PV was only producing about 200w (rising as sun was coming out). The PV has risen to over 1000w by halfway through the cooking cycle which means the battery is getting charged as the PV carries the home loads. (ETA: Finished simmering my soup at 12:10pm and made myself a toasted cheese sandwich for lunch using the toaster and mw. The PV is now charging the batteries back with household loads at about 150w running and PV in at 1400w)
I have been very impressed with how the EAsun is handling my loads ( managed carefully) though I do worry about pushing it much beyond 2000w range for long periods. Its duty cycle and max rating is such that it could easily reach the straw point. In the old, "Straw the broke the camel's back", sort of thing.
I will say it has been fun to cook my foods with solar power, watch my tv shows, light my home and not need grid to do so.
The setup is 2 PV arrays now, the one feeding the EAsun is 1200w consisting of 12 - 100w panels in a 3S4P arrangement to a combiner box and then to AIO. The other array is 4-200w in 2S2P panels wired to a 30a Makeskyblue SCC and than to the batteries.
The batteries are 4- 24vDC 80ah LiFePO4 wired in parallel. They can carry me easily running in SBU mode most days and nights unless a couple of days of no sun happen. At that point I usually plug in a small amperage battery charger that is wired ahead of the AIO on a timing circuit running overnight to help maintain enough charge to prevent switching to grid.
By adding a manual switching transfer control panel of my own making to the houses Main panel I have been able to add loads beyond my back bedroom and computer room that had the two freezers. My first setup was a sub panel that fed that.
The additional loads are my home lights, a refrigerator, TV and stereo system, house water pump, kitchen outlets and also outlets for other 120vAC items such as pellet stove if needed and window A/C units. Many of the kitchen appliances such as toaster, microwave, inductive cooktop, George Foreman grill, pizza oven and air fryer have all been used now to prepare my meals running off the AIO.
As a example of using the inductive cooktop I am cooking my dinner right now (started at 10:15am my time) of a large pot of turkey soup. It took 25 minutes running at around 1500w to bring to boil the 12 cups water and all the vegetables, plus cold meat, and now it is simmering at around 500w (cycles up down) for 90 minutes. When I started it off the batteries were at around 40% charge, the PV was only producing about 200w (rising as sun was coming out). The PV has risen to over 1000w by halfway through the cooking cycle which means the battery is getting charged as the PV carries the home loads. (ETA: Finished simmering my soup at 12:10pm and made myself a toasted cheese sandwich for lunch using the toaster and mw. The PV is now charging the batteries back with household loads at about 150w running and PV in at 1400w)
I have been very impressed with how the EAsun is handling my loads ( managed carefully) though I do worry about pushing it much beyond 2000w range for long periods. Its duty cycle and max rating is such that it could easily reach the straw point. In the old, "Straw the broke the camel's back", sort of thing.
I will say it has been fun to cook my foods with solar power, watch my tv shows, light my home and not need grid to do so.
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Stress test of the unit today. I have added several more house 120vAC circuits to the output of this AIO. (see attached photo of my transfer box). Today I tested adding in my Samsung Front loading VRT washing machine and 1/2hp water pump into the mix while carrying the other loads (mostly dormant).
At the start of the test PV was generating 1000w, the DC bus was at 27.1v and the house base load was 110w.
During Washing machine operation the house water pump would come on during refill cycles at which point the machine was not drawing much current. Wattage during full spin was ~250-300w (bit hard to separate out house loads to be entirely accurate) with spikes up to 1000w when water pump ran.
I was impressed everything seem to operate great. I left on a couple of LED lights to see if I noticed any strobing or flickering effect that might have been caused by the Washing machine (It uses interesting electronics to operate back and forth and spin up cycles) but none was observed although during water pump start a brief momentary dim happened.
Since it was lunch time I tossed a couple of slices of pizza in the 900w microwave and nuked them for a minute during one of the spin cycles. House loading jumped up to 1900w but it did not faze the AIO in any way.
At the end of the test PV was at 1300w and DC bus was at 27.3v house load dropped back down to ~200w. One thing I think I am going to do is wire in my spare EAsun AIO to feed the houses Main and keep the original AIO just feeding the Critical load panel. This would give me the second MPPT SCC (60a so I could grow my second PV array in future) instead of using the MakeSkyBlue SCC 30a one as I have presently setup.
Pretty cool how effective this dirt cheap AIO is proving to be. My first laundry load from solar!
ETA: Just as something of interest. I have found many appliances to use power in ways not what I would expect based on just ratings. For instance my pizza oven (used the last night) would draw full wattage during initial warm up but then dropped down low once oven internal temperature reached set point. It than cycled as needed to maintain temp. Thus over the baking time of 18 minutes (plus 10 minutes of warm up) it only used around 2/3rds of full wattage would have been. Calculations based strictly on wattage and run time may not give you the full story if you do not run the thing.
At the start of the test PV was generating 1000w, the DC bus was at 27.1v and the house base load was 110w.
During Washing machine operation the house water pump would come on during refill cycles at which point the machine was not drawing much current. Wattage during full spin was ~250-300w (bit hard to separate out house loads to be entirely accurate) with spikes up to 1000w when water pump ran.
I was impressed everything seem to operate great. I left on a couple of LED lights to see if I noticed any strobing or flickering effect that might have been caused by the Washing machine (It uses interesting electronics to operate back and forth and spin up cycles) but none was observed although during water pump start a brief momentary dim happened.
Since it was lunch time I tossed a couple of slices of pizza in the 900w microwave and nuked them for a minute during one of the spin cycles. House loading jumped up to 1900w but it did not faze the AIO in any way.
At the end of the test PV was at 1300w and DC bus was at 27.3v house load dropped back down to ~200w. One thing I think I am going to do is wire in my spare EAsun AIO to feed the houses Main and keep the original AIO just feeding the Critical load panel. This would give me the second MPPT SCC (60a so I could grow my second PV array in future) instead of using the MakeSkyBlue SCC 30a one as I have presently setup.
Pretty cool how effective this dirt cheap AIO is proving to be. My first laundry load from solar!
ETA: Just as something of interest. I have found many appliances to use power in ways not what I would expect based on just ratings. For instance my pizza oven (used the last night) would draw full wattage during initial warm up but then dropped down low once oven internal temperature reached set point. It than cycled as needed to maintain temp. Thus over the baking time of 18 minutes (plus 10 minutes of warm up) it only used around 2/3rds of full wattage would have been. Calculations based strictly on wattage and run time may not give you the full story if you do not run the thing.
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Sleeper85
Sunday handyman
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2022
- Messages
- 421
I've also been using my EAsun SMX II 5.6KW (SRNE) AIO to power the whole house since early February. I use it for everything, fridge, freezer, dishwasher, washing machine, induction hob and also to cook chicken and fries with a continuous draw of 4000W for almost 30 minutes. Everything is fine for now.
Quite a draw. Not detailed in my review here but in the Up in smoke Forum I found that when I started really loading down the AIO for the first time (boiling spaghetti noodles on my induction burner) that I had insufficient battery cables for the task. I had thought they were 1 awg but in fact they were much smaller, more like 4 awg. They were replaced with 1-0awg.
One of these days I will have to learn how to put in superscript numbers from my keyboard so I can designate square or cubed. it would be handy for wire sizes since a lot of them are now metric. 6mm2 is bigger than 10 awg (act. size 5.26mm2) but often claimed to be the same for wiring purposes.
It has been an interesting year of running this Easun (SRNE built, Voltronic patent holder and licensing) off-grid AIO. When I first started with it I did not have much expectation for it. It was not a Tier 1 product with glowing testimonials around having it. In fact there was almost nothing in the way of reviews, I expect due to the fact it was not a common product that many run into. People have mostly bought MPP and Growatts in this item category. It has proven to be of real use though and my system with it has grown considerably since my first post in this review. I will say it is amazing how many companies are now selling this same AIO under their name and label.*
My system as it exists now consists of 2 Easun 3KwU-60 AIO’s (not in parallel) The original one is carrying my bedroom/office loads (with 2 deep freezers) plus bathroom lights. The 2nd one carries loads from my Main electrical panel of pretty much everything else that is 120vAC in my home. Between them my grid load has dropped down considerably. I have been able to run not only a 8000btu A/C for 7 hours during hot days (10am -5pm) but also do that while running my water pump, the kitchen refrigerator and my clothes washer. Never expected this AIO to handle that.
I now have 2 PV arrays (Array #1 is 1600w and array #2 is 1200w) each serving their own Easun AIO with the second array switchable to a stand alone MPPT 80a to the shared 400ah 24vDC LiFePO4 battery bank. This is for turning off #2 AIO during periods of poor sun but still using #2 array for battery charging.
I have 2 manual transfer multi circuit control boxes for switching loads between grid and inverters at either the Main panel or the sub panel feeding the office. Between the outputs of #1 and #2 AIO is a MTS for switching out the #2 AIO from the main panel and turning it off for reducing idle loading. I also have a 12a LiFePO4 24vDC charger wired in to a din rail time switch for overnight charging if needed.
Pretty much everything I have thrown at these AIO’s within their specifications they have handled without a problem. If the item’s plug is 120vAC this inverter powers it. I was fairly amazed that I could run an 8000btu A/C unit and still power items like my water pump or microwave. Now the only question left is longevity. Since the price of these is so low it will not take more than 2 years to be a great deal.
The change of July 11&12th is replacing my original #1 EAsun 3kw-U AIO with a new similar (PowMR label but just another SRNE) rated one that has a higher PV voltage range (up to 450vDC) and 80a charge versus the 60a charge. My original #1 EAsun unit is now a spare. I bought and received the new PowMr back in beginning of July for $481 with tax and shipped.
As a quick review of the PowMr. While looking the same, and having much the same setup, the PowMr has some additional features and settings beyond the EAsun unit. It allows battery communication for one and it also features a hybrid setting. This hybrid setting allows PV to charge battery, perhaps operate batteryless and then supply AC out alongside AC grid to load while the AIO is in UTI mode. Supposedly while not sending power back to the grid. However I never intend to make use of it because even a small grid back feed could cause me trouble with my CO-Op. There are a few other differences that makes it a whole different AIO. Such as it has 27.5a inverter output vs the 25a of the EAsun. and it weighs in at 8kg vs 6.8kg.
Probably will start another Thread reviewing the PowMR and only update this one if my EAsun #2 has any issues go forward.
The PoMr required me to rewire #1 PV array as 8S2P (1600w) in order to get the voltage up over the 150vDC startup level. Since I was doing that I replaced all PV wire with Temco 10 awg
One thing I noticed after near a year running the first EAsun, when I started the swap out, is that it was quite dusty inside. It is at the point it needed cleaned out. Not something I had thought about since it is not in a dusty location but I guess just like a Tower computer the internal cooling fans bring in the crud.
* Midnite solar DIY, PowMr, SunGold, Chins, Renogy, Eco-Worthy, Powland, Vevor, Y&H, plus others.
My system as it exists now consists of 2 Easun 3KwU-60 AIO’s (not in parallel) The original one is carrying my bedroom/office loads (with 2 deep freezers) plus bathroom lights. The 2nd one carries loads from my Main electrical panel of pretty much everything else that is 120vAC in my home. Between them my grid load has dropped down considerably. I have been able to run not only a 8000btu A/C for 7 hours during hot days (10am -5pm) but also do that while running my water pump, the kitchen refrigerator and my clothes washer. Never expected this AIO to handle that.
I now have 2 PV arrays (Array #1 is 1600w and array #2 is 1200w) each serving their own Easun AIO with the second array switchable to a stand alone MPPT 80a to the shared 400ah 24vDC LiFePO4 battery bank. This is for turning off #2 AIO during periods of poor sun but still using #2 array for battery charging.
I have 2 manual transfer multi circuit control boxes for switching loads between grid and inverters at either the Main panel or the sub panel feeding the office. Between the outputs of #1 and #2 AIO is a MTS for switching out the #2 AIO from the main panel and turning it off for reducing idle loading. I also have a 12a LiFePO4 24vDC charger wired in to a din rail time switch for overnight charging if needed.
Pretty much everything I have thrown at these AIO’s within their specifications they have handled without a problem. If the item’s plug is 120vAC this inverter powers it. I was fairly amazed that I could run an 8000btu A/C unit and still power items like my water pump or microwave. Now the only question left is longevity. Since the price of these is so low it will not take more than 2 years to be a great deal.
The change of July 11&12th is replacing my original #1 EAsun 3kw-U AIO with a new similar (PowMR label but just another SRNE) rated one that has a higher PV voltage range (up to 450vDC) and 80a charge versus the 60a charge. My original #1 EAsun unit is now a spare. I bought and received the new PowMr back in beginning of July for $481 with tax and shipped.
As a quick review of the PowMr. While looking the same, and having much the same setup, the PowMr has some additional features and settings beyond the EAsun unit. It allows battery communication for one and it also features a hybrid setting. This hybrid setting allows PV to charge battery, perhaps operate batteryless and then supply AC out alongside AC grid to load while the AIO is in UTI mode. Supposedly while not sending power back to the grid. However I never intend to make use of it because even a small grid back feed could cause me trouble with my CO-Op. There are a few other differences that makes it a whole different AIO. Such as it has 27.5a inverter output vs the 25a of the EAsun. and it weighs in at 8kg vs 6.8kg.
Probably will start another Thread reviewing the PowMR and only update this one if my EAsun #2 has any issues go forward.
The PoMr required me to rewire #1 PV array as 8S2P (1600w) in order to get the voltage up over the 150vDC startup level. Since I was doing that I replaced all PV wire with Temco 10 awg
One thing I noticed after near a year running the first EAsun, when I started the swap out, is that it was quite dusty inside. It is at the point it needed cleaned out. Not something I had thought about since it is not in a dusty location but I guess just like a Tower computer the internal cooling fans bring in the crud.
* Midnite solar DIY, PowMr, SunGold, Chins, Renogy, Eco-Worthy, Powland, Vevor, Y&H, plus others.
Sleeper85
Sunday handyman
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2022
- Messages
- 421
I agree with you, cheap and does the job very well, I had no problems with mine after 6 months of use including 4 months to power my house at 100%.
That said, I replaced my EAsun SMX II 5.6kVA today...
I present to you my new toy
still Chinese but a level above (also sold under the name of SunSynk or Sol-Ark in the USA).
Deye SUN-6K-SG03LP1-EU
Deye 6K vs EAsun 5.6K (SRNE)
That said, I replaced my EAsun SMX II 5.6kVA today...
I present to you my new toy
still Chinese but a level above (also sold under the name of SunSynk or Sol-Ark in the USA).Deye SUN-6K-SG03LP1-EU
Deye 6K vs EAsun 5.6K (SRNE)
There are two iterations of these SRNE based 24vDC 120vAC 3kw AIO's. The older one was limited to 100Voc and 60a charge. The newer model is 450Voc and 80a charge. The board number inside my new PowMr is HF2430S80H PowMr call it Pow-LVM3K-24V-H as their model.
I think some of the printed specs on the newest ones have not caught up to everything and were carried over from the older model.
I also bet that some of the re-branders are going to turn off some of the available settings like we saw with the earlier ones.
I think some of the printed specs on the newest ones have not caught up to everything and were carried over from the older model.
I also bet that some of the re-branders are going to turn off some of the available settings like we saw with the earlier ones.
73powerstroke
Solar Enthusiast
Im not able to get the powmr 3k24v to do this
73powerstroke
Solar Enthusiast
Is this possibly the same thing also? I want one to match the powmr for split 240
3000W Solar Charge Inverter 24V DC to 110V/120V AC, Off-Grid Soalr Inverter Pure Sine Wave Built-in 60A MPPT Charge Controller Support Parallel for 24V Lead Acid and Lithium Battery https://a.co/d/2qUnfAQ
3000W Solar Charge Inverter 24V DC to 110V/120V AC, Off-Grid Soalr Inverter Pure Sine Wave Built-in 60A MPPT Charge Controller Support Parallel for 24V Lead Acid and Lithium Battery https://a.co/d/2qUnfAQ
Yes, that is the same one. There are many of them out there. They are pretty basic and do not allow stacking for split phase nor can you parallel them. You can see that mentioned in your link in the description area.
Cascade1911
New Member
I have the Chins badged unit. Up until now I’ve only connected to pv. I just set up a line to charge off a generator. With pv disconnected the unit says it’s feeding the inverter and charging the batteries but (with no load on inverter) the batteries actually discharge about .8 amps each. Two 12v in series each reporting about 13.2 volts. I figure I’ve munged a setting somewhere but I haven’t found it. I set charging to mains priority but no help. Any thoughts?
Is your unit operating in utility bypass?
