EG4 6000EX firmware cable fails to connect

[Bfreemannh]

Hi Folks,
I am trying to update my 6000ex inverter but getting an error.
I am using the supplied black two wire USB to RJ45 cable. The rj45 jack is plugged into the far-right computer port on the inverter.
When I insert the USB cable port 3 or port 4 is assigned depending on what USB port I use. The update tool always defaults to the right port. When I press update it claims to open the port, then fails to connect, and then closes the port.
This is using a fresh win11 build with nothing installed and no other connections but Wi-Fi.
What am I doing wrong

 

[Adam De Lay]

Are you trying to use the black cable from this post? If so, that seems to be the battery cable and you need to use the other cable.

Eg4 6500ex can't update firmware

Hi all, I'm having trouble updating the firmware on my 6500. I know the port is correct, but can't get my computer to connect. Using cable that came with inverter--direct USB to rj45. I keep getting errors with both the inverter and the display panel update. Any guidance? TIA.

diysolarforum.com

 

[Bfreemannh]

My bad! Just realizing that the supplied cable may only be intended for updating the batteries and not the inverter.

 

[Adam De Lay]

My bad! Just realizing that the supplied cable may only be intended for updating the batteries and not the inverter.

No worries. I did the same thing as that was the only cable included in one of my inverter boxes.

 

[dcg9381]

My bad! Just realizing that the supplied cable may only be intended for updating the batteries and not the inverter.

Same thing here.

 

[SkyMo]

Same thing here.

Did that fix it??

 

[LydMekk]

Btw. Windows 11 is normally NOT a friend of older software for updating inverters and batteries, just sayin'
If you have access to an older machine its normally easier to get it to work.

 

[dcg9381]

Did that fix it??

You have to use USB to serial for firmware. I assumed that the USB to RJ45 would work as well - it does not for firmware. You need to have a "serial" port. Worked fine after that.

 

[SkyMo]

I'm not following you... Are you saying that to flash the firmware you need a different cable than what is provided? I got a USB to serial converter and a serial cable DB9 to RJ45 that plugs into it. Also a black battery to inverter connection cable.

 

[dcg9381]

I'm not following you... Are you saying that to flash the firmware you need a different cable than what is provided? I got a USB to serial converter and a serial cable DB9 to RJ45 that plugs into it. Also a black battery to inverter connection cable.

Being specific, my inverters and batteries came with a USB to RJ45. I assumed that could be used. I was incorrect. That's used for BMS.
I bought a USB to serial converter and then used the DB9 to RJ45 that came with the inverters. That worked for me.

 

[SkyMo]

I see what you are saying now. I just received mine last week and it came with the USB to Serial converter and the DB9 to RJ45. I am still going back and forth with support, but I suspect they are going to want me to flash mine pretty quick. It has the "drop AC for 4 seconds" issue.

 

[dcg9381]

I see what you are saying now. I just received mine last week and it came with the USB to Serial converter and the DB9 to RJ45. I am still going back and forth with support, but I suspect they are going to want me to flash mine pretty quick. It has the "drop AC for 4 seconds" issue.

Nice. We've bought 4 inverters and 6 batteries, still waiting on the other 2 inverters, but I didn't get USB to serial.

I don't know that particular issue (I've had my own). But I updated our firmware from EG-4s site - display firmware first, then inverter firmware. My use case is "mobile" (there are two sets of firmware). Wasn't bad once I figured out that I needed to use that DB9 to RJ45.

 

[SkyMo]

There are a couple other people on this site with the issue. For me at least, it happens every day after the batteries are fully charged from the nights drawdown, the inverter just shuts off the AC w/o warning or errors for 4 seconds. I assume "Mobile" meant the inverters were installed in a van or something, does it really mean "off-grid" as that's what I am, fully off grid. Just batteries and solar. I have two 6000's and I will need to power a irrigation pump here soon. I have a solar well pump from RPS that handles the day to day water. Its is one product I am very very happy with. It's been running for years and only had one issue (a wire broke to the solar panel) and the RPS people answered the phone right away and helped me troubleshoot it live.

 

[dcg9381]

There are a couple other people on this site with the issue. For me at least, it happens every day after the batteries are fully charged from the nights drawdown, the inverter just shuts off the AC w/o warning or errors for 4 seconds.

I haven't monitored solid uptime for 24 hours. Interesting and obviously that's a problem for a lot of use cases.

I assume "Mobile" meant the inverters were installed in a van or something, does it really mean "off-grid" as that's what I am, fully off grid. Just batteries and solar. I have two 6000's and I will need to power a irrigation pump here soon. I have a solar well pump from RPS that handles the day to day water. Its is one product I am very very happy with. It's been running for years and only had one issue (a wire broke to the solar panel) and the RPS people answered the phone right away and helped me troubleshoot it live.

It's in context with grounding and neutral/ground bonding. If you're charging from the grid, the grid has a neutral/ground bond usually at the main panel. You should check if your inverters are neutral/ground bonded. With the inverter not wired to anything, just see if there is continuity between the N/G lugs on the AC output. If so, your inverters have a ground screw.

Out of the box inverters, original firmware, I had "ground sensitive" equipment that would fault on battery power. It was faulting as there was no neutral ground bond. It likely made GFCI protection impossible. Signature solar made a video on use cases for N/G bonding.

Apparently EG-4 6500EX were shipped with a ground screw at one time. On or around 2/2023, they started shipping without. Depending on who you talk to at SS support, they give different answers if they are shipped bonded now, so it's best to check. I'm still waiting on a call back as we just ordered more inverters.

This is my "understanding" and it is not definitive advice for your case - I am not acting as an engineer or electrician:
Because you have no grid tie, you're likely unbonded if you have inverters sold after 2/2023. One of your inverters needs a bond screw installed (2.5mm x 10mm) in the case where you are operating in 240V split phase. I do NOT believe you need the mobile firmware if you will NEVER charge from the grid. Mobile firmware is used in the "van case" and alters the bonding when there is a grid tie source, like when an RV plugs into the grid.

 

[SkyMo]

That clears it up for me. As the nearest grid is a good 10 miles away, I don't think I will ever be connected to it. I don't think I will ever want to open up the system and attach a bonding point like I read in other posts. But then, it's not like these really have a warranty and support is via this forum. I guess if you are Will and doing a video you can call up and talk to an engineer in real time.

 

[Zwy]

That clears it up for me. As the nearest grid is a good 10 miles away, I don't think I will ever be connected to it. I don't think I will ever want to open up the system and attach a bonding point like I read in other posts. But then, it's not like these really have a warranty and support is via this forum. I guess if you are Will and doing a video you can call up and talk to an engineer in real time.

Without any grid connection, just bond the breaker panel. No need to open up the units.

 

[SkyMo]

I have a nice heavy ground wire between the GND on the inverters, my breaker panels and a ground rod driven into the earth. Was the easiest part of this whole thing.

 

[Zwy]

I have a nice heavy ground wire between the GND on the inverters, my breaker panels and a ground rod driven into the earth. Was the easiest part of this whole thing.

That will not provide ground fault protection if the inverter does not bond N and G. What you are referring to is the ground wire which is the EGC (equipment grounding conductor). What I am referring to is bonding of N-G for ground fault protection. Ground fault protection is extremely important. The system needs to have proper ground fault protection in order to trip a breaker if a ground fault occurs.

If you do not have proper ground fault protection, your system can kill you or anyone in contact with your system or severely injure people. It can also cause your system/structures to start a fire and burn down.

I can not emphasize this enough, you need to have N-G bonded at one point in the system and only one point.

First thing, when was the inverter purchased? Second, can you remove any connections to the inverter and measure for continuity between N-G with the inverter off? Third, what does the documentation say?

 

[SkyMo]

It's a pair of EG4 6000ex inverters purchased from signature solar. The docs are pretty sparse on the subject. Ill pose the question to support and see what they say...

 

[dcg9381]

That clears it up for me. As the nearest grid is a good 10 miles away, I don't think I will ever be connected to it. I don't think I will ever want to open up the system and attach a bonding point like I read in other posts.

I'm not sure that it's clear. EG-4 hardware has changed before without much notification. I was told that these ship bonded 2 days ago (by support), but that answer changed to "will get back to you" when pointing to the SS video.

If you never grid tie, you still need a bond. If you're off grid (cabin, stationary) likely what you need is an EGC (just like any other structure - a ground bar to earth) AND an appropriate N/G bond.

It's a pair of EG4 6000ex inverters purchased from signature solar. The docs are pretty sparse on the subject. Ill pose the question to support and see what they say...

I can tell you to do the following:

<CHECK YOURSELF>

It's a simple continuity test on the output side. Don't do it right and your GFI protections won't work and some devices that are ground fault sensitive may drive you crazy.

SS actually did a pretty good video on the subject, but does not really address the configuration of the all the devices they sell. So someone over there knows what they are talking about: