DIYrich
Solar Wizard
2137 is output watts (watts to the battery). The AC/DC conversion is about 90% efficient, so you will need about 2,375 watts of input (Honda Output), or 19.8 amps at 120v.
EG4 Chargeverter
- Thread starter thepartyhound
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mikeyoungvcu89
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Right now my chargeverter is still in the box. I probably wont have time to install until next weekend. Think of the Battery BMS as a failsafe. You set the chargeverter to charge to a certain point, it should be less than the battery built in BMS. Your autostart (if you have one) using the dry contacts from the Inverter should be set to trigger well prior to the battery built in low voltage disconnect. If the battery BMS does a low voltage disconnect, in my experience you get a 6P code on the EG4 and it will not reconnect automatically, you have to reset the battery. This may be different if you are using the battery communication cables.
Using the chargeverter in my understanding solves a couple important problems. First, you have isolated the ac in from the generator the ac in is probably the weakest point of the inverter since it typically runs at the most current. Second, most generators are bonded ground/neutral I had allot of weird problems and some that were potentially dangerous when using the generator, including current where there should be none and GFCI breakers that would not work. I guess I could have removed the bond in the generator and maybe that would have solved it but there was also some issue with charging and powering loads at the same time. It just seems to me that running a separate charger and taking the job of ac based charging off the inverter was the logical move. Its what SS recommends for what its worth. This way the inverter is always running the loads off the battery - no bypass.
Using the chargeverter in my understanding solves a couple important problems. First, you have isolated the ac in from the generator the ac in is probably the weakest point of the inverter since it typically runs at the most current. Second, most generators are bonded ground/neutral I had allot of weird problems and some that were potentially dangerous when using the generator, including current where there should be none and GFCI breakers that would not work. I guess I could have removed the bond in the generator and maybe that would have solved it but there was also some issue with charging and powering loads at the same time. It just seems to me that running a separate charger and taking the job of ac based charging off the inverter was the logical move. Its what SS recommends for what its worth. This way the inverter is always running the loads off the battery - no bypass.
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This is a DIY forum Jennifer ?
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Yea, “Do It Y’all” ?This is a DIY forum Jennifer ?
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But thanks for the Victron color code, sweeeet… “Hey Maaco I found it, start masking the car!!!!!!”
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you're planning a simple off-grid setup for your remote property, but have some questions about using the EG4 Chargeverter to charge your batteries using a diesel generator. I can try my best to help answer your questions!
you are correct that the Chargeverter plugs into the generator on the input side, then attaches to the bus bars that your batteries are connected to on the 48V DC output side. In terms of how the charger knows when to stop charging, you are also correct that there is a communication link between the batteries and the inverter/charger. This link is established through the BMS (Battery Management System), which monitors the state of charge of the batteries and communicates with the Chargeverter to tell it when the batteries are full, and when to stop charging.
Regarding the issue with equalizing the cells in a LiFePo4 battery, I would recommend checking with the manufacturer of the Chargeverter and your batteries to see if they are compatible. It may be that you need to use a different charger or charging method to properly equalize the cells in your battery.
As for whether you can use the system without any solar panels attached, it is possible to do so, but it may not be the most efficient use of the system. While your usage may be minimal, having some solar input can help keep your batteries charged and extend the life of the batteries. Without any solar input, you may need to run your generator more frequently to keep the batteries charged.
I would recommend reaching out to the manufacturer of the Chargeverter and your batteries for more specific guidance on how to properly set up and use your system. They may be able to provide more detailed information on how to optimize the performance and longevity of your equipment.
you are correct that the Chargeverter plugs into the generator on the input side, then attaches to the bus bars that your batteries are connected to on the 48V DC output side. In terms of how the charger knows when to stop charging, you are also correct that there is a communication link between the batteries and the inverter/charger. This link is established through the BMS (Battery Management System), which monitors the state of charge of the batteries and communicates with the Chargeverter to tell it when the batteries are full, and when to stop charging.
Regarding the issue with equalizing the cells in a LiFePo4 battery, I would recommend checking with the manufacturer of the Chargeverter and your batteries to see if they are compatible. It may be that you need to use a different charger or charging method to properly equalize the cells in your battery.
As for whether you can use the system without any solar panels attached, it is possible to do so, but it may not be the most efficient use of the system. While your usage may be minimal, having some solar input can help keep your batteries charged and extend the life of the batteries. Without any solar input, you may need to run your generator more frequently to keep the batteries charged.
I would recommend reaching out to the manufacturer of the Chargeverter and your batteries for more specific guidance on how to properly set up and use your system. They may be able to provide more detailed information on how to optimize the performance and longevity of your equipment.
For what it’s worth, the “input side”of a generator is called it’s fuel tank or propane source which makes it hard to “plug any chargers into it” Were it possible, it would have limited functionality, unless they were fuel based chargers which by definition would be ‘generators‘ and the circle starts all over again. ?
Sorry, couldn’t resist.
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SignatureSolarJames
Try Solar, the Grid will always take you back
Don’t you worry, I’ll be standing at the gate waiting for FedEx with my drop sheet, disposable coveralls and spray bombs ready for action. (Kidding, it’s a pretty yellow, I’m not going to lose it, that’s for damn sure… you can see it from space)…@Jennifer You will go to generator heaven even if it's yellow
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yes, 240v mode uses L1, L2 and ground
TT-30 P 120v plug needs to have neutral go to L1, L go to L2 and ground to ground
ImAnIdiotPleaseBePatient
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Exactly what I was thinking. This could solve a lot of people ground/neutral bonding issues with growatts/6500EX's.
It doesn't "switch". It can take any input from 90v to 260v and convert it to DC.
The converter is probably about 90% efficient so 2137/.9 = 2374 / 120 = 19.8 amps at the generator.
That doesn’t make sense??
for the t-30p the manual shows that the blue wire connects to neutral, and brown wire is line. Ground is ground. L1 is brown
Where did you get that picture from? The bottom is cut off.
im still not clear. What color is the neutral wire if I buy this chargeverter and want to connect it to a generator? (120)
signiture guy said something that doesn’t make sense.
when looking at the “pin out” in the chargeverter manual am I looking as if I’m staring at the metal prongs?( and have to flip 180 degrees to plug in) or am I looking at the plug as if I’m plugging it into the generator?
the,third,example isn’t applicable?? The neutral isn’t used (terminal directly across from ground)
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
You should use the pin mapping in the manual.
I’m,trying to. It’s contradicting what the SS dude said. Or I’m not understanding. The “pin out” am I looking at it as if I’m staring at the yellow pins? Or the back of the plug.
from the manual I get neutral is blue , but SS guy says neutral is brown?
