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EVSE to Sigineer to Charge Home Batteries

JoeMartinMVC

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Aug 5, 2021
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All right, so I’ve got a dumb thing I’m trying to do, and trying to not blow things up in the process.

Current setup:
Sigineer 15kw 48V Inverter

Hooked to 48v Tesla battery packs.
~11kwh of solar panels

However I live in Florida where sometimes it rains for a week.

I’m still grid tied, but primarily use battery power, and I have access to reduced electricity costs during certain hours.

I’m wanting to use an EVSE to charge my batteries on occasion to prevent swapping over to the grid whenever my batteries get too low.

I tried connecting this SUSUTOO J1772 adapter to the EVSE, then a danger plug from the adapter to the Sigineer AC input, but when the Sigineer went to ramp up itd surge and cause the EVSE to give a GFI error, or straight up trip the 60 amp breaker it’s on.


Has anyone done something similar and can give some advice? Or does anyone know how much power the Sigineer is trying to pull whenever it begins trying to pull power from the charger? I have the charging input potentiometer dialed all the way down, but no way to measure what it’s trying to pull.
 
Did you set the charging current limit in the inverter? Looks like 50-60A would be upper limit.
 
I refuse to charge my batteries via my inverter's charger
I only use the inverter to power AC from DC



I have tesla model S batteries AND chargeverters

 
I’m wanting to use an EVSE to charge my batteries on occasion to prevent swapping over to the grid whenever my batteries get too low.
Dumb question, but isn't the EVSE connected to . . . the grid?
 
Dumb question, but isn't the EVSE connected to . . . the grid?
Not a dumb question, and one I expected to come up a few times.
The cheaper rates are only available through the EVSE. The plan would be to charge the batteries via the EVSE on days when I don’t get any sun if I need it.
 
I refuse to charge my batteries via my inverter's charger
I only use the inverter to power AC from DC



I have tesla model S batteries AND chargeverters

Definitely fascinating from what I’ve read so far.

Does the chargeverter have any method that you know of for connecting a j1772 connection to it?
The plug I posted should only be capable of 3.5kw, and if I could have something that would pass through the full amount that the chargeverter can handle would be even better.
 
Not a dumb question, and one I expected to come up a few times.
The cheaper rates are only available through the EVSE. The plan would be to charge the batteries via the EVSE on days when I don’t get any sun if I need it.
Is the EVSE on your house?
 
Definitely fascinating from what I’ve read so far.

Does the chargeverter have any method that you know of for connecting a j1772 connection to it?

I do not know the internals of the j1772 wiring nor communication protocols

The plug I posted should only be capable of 3.5kw, and if I could have something that would pass through the full amount that the chargeverter can handle would be even better.
 
out of curiosity I found the following Theory of Operation


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Understanding EVSE's​


Many people do not fully understand the process of how an EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment) communicates with their Electric Vehicle.

The Tesla UMC, Wall Connector, and Destination chargers are all considered as EVSE's.

First thing to note is that there is no charger in the EVSE and that it just supplies power to the on-board charger in your electric vehicle.

There are two signals that the Tesla and J-1772 charging protocol uses to communicate between an EVSE and every electric vehicle including Tesla.

Steps in Charging:

1. The charging process begins when you plug the connector from the EVSE into our adapter or your car.

2. The EVSE sends out a signal (duty cycle) on the pilot pin that informs the vehicle what the MAXIMUM amount of power is available at the EVSE. This is to stop the car from pulling to much power and blowing the circuit breaker that feeds power to the EVSE.

3. Once the car sees this signal and it decides that the available power is above the MINIMUM required by the on board charger it will modify the voltage on the pilot pin to inform the EVSE that it wants to activate the contactor (switch) and start feeding power into the onboard charger.

Notes:

So if you have a Wall Connector or Destination charger that is set for 80 AMPS it will never send that much power to the car because the on-board charger will never be able to accept that amount of power. If you are going to charge continuously (over 3 hours) the National Electrical Code (NEC) rule states that you will need to make sure that whatever connectors you use will need to be rated at 120% of the maximum power that will be traversing the connector.
 
It has a potentiometer that doesn’t seem to work for the life of it. I adjusted it as low as it could go though.
It appears the charger has PFC so there is likely a big inrush current. You could try a soft starter or variac to ramp up the voltage slowly.
 
You need something like this to tell the EVSE to close it's internal relay and provide power.
Then you could plug the chargeverter or whatever into the outlet at the end to charge the house bank.


EXACTLY = great find

that is what I was searching for



also, btw I found in the manual what I also was concerned about
This inverter was one of the ones I investigated as using.


DO NOT connect the Neutral of Inverter to the incoming power in anyway. It is a NON-common neutral

page 27 of manual


For split phase models, AC input neutral is not required in wiring. Never
Connect Input Neutral to Ground or to Output Neutral. Damage will result
which is not covered under warranty.
The output voltage of this unit must never be connected in its input AC terminal,
overload or damage may result.
Always switch on the inverter before plugging in any appliance.
Damages caused by AC wiring mistakes are not covered under warranty.
 

Attachments

  • 15000-watt-24V-48V-Inverter-Charger-Manual.pdf
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