Few questions for 6500ex/Lifepower4 rack setup/startup?

[jfharper]

1. I don't connect AC ground to AC output...only AC input..correct?
2. For 6500ex's shipped after Feb 2023, the n-g screw is removed...just to confirm.
3. I will be running two 6500ex split phase. My main panel has N-G bonded and is fed by utility, 6500ex will be fed after the main with AC, I'm a little confused if I need a certain firmware update or setting adjustment regarding the n-g bypass or ? I keep getting lost in the n-g bond eg4 video.
4. Is it best to have the batt bank switched off at two breakers first, and power the AIO's first with PV, so I can set them up as split phase (master one/slave other) and eg4 battery setting and SBU setting?
5. If so, I guess after this I turn off the PV, then switch the batt bank breakers on following eg4 startup procedure, then on batt's one at a time, then turn inverters on.
6. Do I need to check the voltages of the lifepower4's beforehand and charge them up somehow, to get them charged within .1v of each other before doing the above procedure...I have a couple batts that have sat for months but still have 3 SOC lights showing?

 

[Adam De Lay]

1. I don't connect AC ground to AC output...only AC input..correct?

The AC IN/Out grounds are all connected together, so you should only need to connect to one inside the inverter.

2. For 6500ex's shipped after Feb 2023, the n-g screw is removed...just to confirm.

As far as I know, they never added the screws back in. Using a meter, you can check for continuity between AC Out Ground and Neutral with the system off. If there's no continuity, there's no screw.

3. I will be running two 6500ex split phase. My main panel has N-G bonded and is fed by utility, 6500ex will be fed after the main with AC, I'm a little confused if I need a certain firmware update or setting adjustment regarding the n-g bypass or ? I keep getting lost in the n-g bond eg4 video.

Trust me, you're not the only one. If you're using AC IN and you have a g/n bond in your main panel already, you'll want to make sure you're on 79.71 and set option 42 to Ena.

4. Is it best to have the batt bank switched off at two breakers first, and power the AIO's first with PV, so I can set them up as split phase (master one/slave other) and eg4 battery setting and SBU setting?

Ultimately it doesn't matter which power source you use. If you have PV and your inverters are "turned off" (standby mode), pv will just charge the batteries and also let you make changes to certain settings that you cannot change while you're inverters are turned on.

5. If so, I guess after this I turn off the PV, then switch the batt bank breakers on following eg4 startup procedure, then on batt's one at a time, then turn inverters on.

You would want to follow the battery startup procedure exactly, and you would not want to turn the inverters on. That will keep the inverters in standby mode.

6. Do I need to check the voltages of the lifepower4's beforehand and charge them up somehow, to get them charged within .1v of each other before doing the above procedure...I have a couple batts that have sat for months but still have 3 SOC lights showing?

The easiest way to make sure your batteries are all at the same SOC is to charge them all up to 100%. If you connect them as-is, it will take a while for your different batteries to synchronize together.

 

[jfharper]

Thanks.

I don't have a chargeverter, but I could use my RD6006P with the 60V 6A power supply, I guess I just figure what voltage to charge at, might be a bit slow, but I think it should work just for the two that need the initial charge.. Anyone know what voltage I should set?

Also, is it better to determine 100% SOC from a windows system running the bms test software or are the SOC lights good enough to determine 100% with all four lights lit.

Found the voltage from the lifepower4 spec sheet manual:

Charging Voltage (Bulk/Absorb) 56.2V (+/- 0.2V)

 

[Adam De Lay]

Not sure on the voltage. Check if the manual gives you any specifics.

Windows software would be better.
As far as the SOC lights on the battery, those lights aren't super specific. They signify that your battery is within a specific SOC range. I wana say the first light is anywhere from 0-25%, second one is 26-50% etc.

Jeff did a good job of explaining it:

 

[jfharper]

If you're using AC IN and you have a g/n bond in your main panel already, you'll want to make sure you're on 79.71 and set option 42 to Ena.

Thanks Adam...OK, so something I'm still getting hung up upon...when we talk Stationary and Mobile...it's discussed, for Mobile, the inverter switches between AC mode and Battery mode (or something like that)...isn't that what is going on anyway in Stationary mode? The inverter switches between solar, battery, or ac mode? I must be misunderstanding Mobile mode.

Just to simplify this, as you stated, because I have the g/n bond in my main panel, and these two inverters downstream of that main panel, I will set 42 to Ena (and have FW 79.71). This will always make sure the g/n bond in my main panel is passed thru regardless of what the inverter is using for power...solar, battery or utility...please tell me I have this right? ...and thanks again for your help and videos.

 

[Adam De Lay]

Thanks Adam...OK, so something I'm still getting hung up upon...when we talk Stationary and Mobile...it's discussed, for Mobile, the inverter switches between AC mode and Battery mode (or something like that)...isn't that what is going on anyway in Stationary mode? The inverter switches between solar, battery, or ac mode? I must be misunderstanding Mobile mode.

So in regards to Mobile vs Stationary, at the beginning of 2023, EG4 split their firmware into two versions (Mobile and Stationary) to attempt to resolve the ground/neutral bond issue in the inverters. Stationary would disable the g/n bond relay (assuming you would already have one in your MSP) and mobile would enable the g/n bond relay. When the relay is enabled, a g/n bond is created when you’re in battery mode. As soon as you switch over to grid-bypass mode (using AC In), the bond would be disabled.

I wana say around March/April, they realized they could simplify things and make it an option in the menu, so they did away with the different versions of the firmware in favor of 79.71 which created option 42.

Just to simplify this, as you stated, because I have the g/n bond in my main panel, and these two inverters downstream of that main panel, I will set 42 to Ena (and have FW 79.71). This will always make sure the g/n bond in my main panel is passed thru regardless of what the inverter is using for power...solar, battery or utility...please tell me I have this right?

Correct. ENA disables the relay and creates a common neutral which passes the g/n bond through all the time from your AC In connection. That’s exactly how I had mine set up as well.

...and thanks again for your help and videos.

Not a problem. Glad to be able to help out.

 

[jfharper]

As far as I know, they never added the screws back in. Using a meter, you can check for continuity between AC Out Ground and Neutral with the system off. If there's no continuity, there's no screw.

Almost ready to turn these on...so one of them (dated 10/2022) does NOT have continuity between AC Out Ground and Neutral with the system off...the other one does read continuity (dated 9/2022). The date sticker appears to be covering a screw to open it. Does it void the warranty if I break that sticker to open it up and remove the screw? Also, I'm assuming I need to remove that screw.

 

[Adam De Lay]

Almost ready to turn these on...so one of them (dated 10/2022) does NOT have continuity between AC Out Ground and Neutral with the system off...the other one does read continuity (dated 9/2022). The date sticker appears to be covering a screw to open it. Does it void the warranty if I break that sticker to open it up and remove the screw? Also, I'm assuming I need to remove that screw.

Actually if you update the firmware to the latest version (79.71), there's a new option 42 which controls the G/N relay in the inverter. No more having to mess with screws inside the inverter.

 

[jfharper]

Actually if you update the firmware to the latest version (79.71), there's a new option 42 which controls the G/N relay in the inverter. No more having to mess with screws inside the inverter.

Thank you, I got a little confused, thought the firmware needed updating AND the G/N bond needed to be removed, now it makes sense.

 

[Adam De Lay]

Thank you, I got a little confused, thought the firmware needed updating AND the G/N bond needed to be removed, now it makes sense.

In fact, there's been comments where having the screw put back in (for those who have removed it) resolves other issues the system may experience...

 

[jfharper]

In fact, there's been comments where having the screw put back in (for those who have removed it) resolves other issues the system may experience...

Interesting...I hate to make you type it out, but what issues?

 

[Adam De Lay]

Interesting...I hate to make you type it out, but what issues?

According to Markus from EG4, adding the NG Bond screw back to the inverters has resolved alot of problems like random shutdowns, F80s, and PV dropping in and out.

 

[SignatureSolarJess]

In fact, there's been comments where having the screw put back in (for those who have removed it) resolves other issues the system may experience...

If you haven't removed it yourself, we can mail out new ones to you!