I assume it would, but they recommend disabling charge mode to use it as a power supply or it will do both and I'm sure it's a strain on the unit. I'm not sure as I would need it to be honest, my thinking is that whatever 12v is used while on shore power would be replaced by the charger. I guess the other option would be to put the converter (only) and the separate charger on a circuit connected to the shore side of the transfer switch.
First RV upgrade 30A 5th wheel
- Thread starter Scycle
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Thanks for the info. The fanless aspect was intriguing as my inverter charger is a bit noisy.
Instead of chasing a 40 amp mega fuse you could run a small sub fuse panel with AMI/midi fuses that go as low as 30 amps. Run the appropriate fuse/wire to the sub panel from the Lynx and have all you DC charging coming into that. The lynx are a bit annoying for "medium" current loads.
That how I power the medium loads. But im on 24v so none of my solar or DC to DC is over 20 amps. I have a 100 amp capable sub panel with blade fuses up to 30 amps.
Just a thought, it certainly adds cost. Might be tough to fit 8 gauge in to the 100/20 SCC.
That how I power the medium loads. But im on 24v so none of my solar or DC to DC is over 20 amps. I have a 100 amp capable sub panel with blade fuses up to 30 amps.
Just a thought, it certainly adds cost. Might be tough to fit 8 gauge in to the 100/20 SCC.
I have thought about a sub panel or use a MRBF fuse which will go as low as 30A also. I'll need to change wire size for both SCC to 6AWG for the 100|30 and 10AWG for the 100|20 according to Victron specs. Maybe have both SCC the same as not much cost difference.
It's been over a year and finally going to start this except the solar and dc/dc charger will be added later, but forgot what little I learned so looking at this I have questions. First I need to add 12V lines from the lynx/battery back to the rv power panel that are not on the drawing but already exist in the camper.
1. Will the 12V 6AWG lines from the charger to lynx backfeed from lynx to charger and cause damage?
2. Seems like I should disconnect the charger in the rv power panel instead of the converter? This is confusing to me.
I see the system working like this:
On shore power AC out of transfer switch to rv panel for 120v items, 12v will come from battery and AC also out to new battery charger.
Off shore power battery will run inverter sending AC through transfer switch then to rv control panel for 120v items and 12v will come from battery.
1. Will the 12V 6AWG lines from the charger to lynx backfeed from lynx to charger and cause damage?
2. Seems like I should disconnect the charger in the rv power panel instead of the converter? This is confusing to me.
I see the system working like this:
On shore power AC out of transfer switch to rv panel for 120v items, 12v will come from battery and AC also out to new battery charger.
Off shore power battery will run inverter sending AC through transfer switch then to rv control panel for 120v items and 12v will come from battery.
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DVD
New member and getting older
I see nothing inherently wrong with your approach.
Just a couple thoughts…
1) If your battery to inverter distance is reasonably short, you can get by with 2/0 (or even smaller) instead of 4/0. A quick line loss check can confirm.
2) Your converter might be suitable for LFP batteries without needing a charger. I can’t identify the brand/model from the thumbnail. Many converters from 2010 and newer have an LI setting, or AGM (which is pretty close to LI from a practical point of view)
Many RV forums such as Lance Owners of America and Airstream have a lot of discussion about solar/lithium/TVcharging etc.
Add some of the solar first .... that way you can eliminate the need to use a new charger
keep the existing converter and move the 120v converter wiring to the shorepower side of the transfer switch
thus converter is only ON while on shorepower
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solar can keep the batteries happy
the money saved can be used to increase your solar to 800 -1000w
upgrade the solar controller to 50 or 60amps then add panels as your budget allows.
doing the solar first will give you more camping options ,
older type converter can still be used to put power back into the battery
converter also powers 12v stuff as it charges battery average converter is probably 50amp
and while on shore power battery won't get discharged...
depending on your converter you may be able to just change out the main board to make it a lifepo4
you can buy a stand alone converter for the price of a victron 30amp charger
keep the existing converter and move the 120v converter wiring to the shorepower side of the transfer switch
thus converter is only ON while on shorepower
-
solar can keep the batteries happy
the money saved can be used to increase your solar to 800 -1000w
upgrade the solar controller to 50 or 60amps then add panels as your budget allows.
doing the solar first will give you more camping options ,
older type converter can still be used to put power back into the battery
converter also powers 12v stuff as it charges battery average converter is probably 50amp
and while on shore power battery won't get discharged...
depending on your converter you may be able to just change out the main board to make it a lifepo4
you can buy a stand alone converter for the price of a victron 30amp charger
I have to check the peak on the inverter again, but recall I figured for that or maybe later an upgrade to 3000W, but seems everyone suggests to oversize although 2/0 would be much easier to work with.
My converter is a PD4045 with a jumper for LA or GEL, but no LI, and the manual doesn't seem to differentiate between the two charge profiles. Many say to only charge with correct Li profile. I considered the direct replacement for my power center but Progressive uses a constant 14.6 on that model.
I did think about solar first, but have had all the other parts except batteries for a year-no time, but I've updated drawing so I would start with some portable solar.
My converter is a PD4045 and thought I would create a junction box to connect a wire from shore lugs in transfer switch to converter so charger and 12V will only work on shore power. The wire from transfer switch to control panel will only feed 120V whether on shore or inverter.
I've looked at converter/charger and some have just one output so I don't understand how it can charge with the varied voltage profile and supply 12v to the rv side. One brand had two outputs, one for charge and one for rv 12v power. Do you recommend a 45A converter/charger?
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DVD
New member and getting older
Again, doing the line loss calculations will give you a much better insight into how your system can be expected to perform.
I’m running a 3kVA inverter with 2/0 lines to the furthest batteries (22’ round trip) and #2 to the nearest ones (5’ round trip). I’m using welding wire which has a much higher insulation temperature rating than THHN so cable heating (NEC ampacity ratings) is not an issue even under max load.
I can’t recall if you incorporated a battery monitor in your setup. Highly recommended. Victron Smart Shunt is a decent choice. I use it for the overall system, and a Renogy for the second pair of LFPs that I retrofitted. That way I can see how my unbalanced battery arrangement is performing. As expected under heavy loads, 60% comes from the nearer batteries and 40% from the more distant pair.
Revised diagram-again. I think I'm going in circles and seems I'm getting close but I don't know enough about it to figure it out. My final concern (I hope) is the 12v lines from the lynx/battery will supply power to 12v side of panel when using inverter for 120VAC, but what about when on shore powering the converter to get 12vdc at panel? Is 12vdc going to the lynx/battery even though the charger is disconnected? Is 12v in the rv panel usually separated in to a charging line and 12v supply line?
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DVD
New member and getting older
Your diagram looks correct. I see the monitor shunt. 
Your converter, when supplied AC from shore power will provide the 12 vdc to the distribution panel (and charge the battery).
Your converter, when supplied AC from shore power will provide the 12 vdc to the distribution panel (and charge the battery).
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The 4045 set for LA is perfectly fine for LFP battery. Could be a little slow charging if running a generator but perfectly fine on utility power.
The RV components run fine on 11.0 to 15.0 volts.
Thanks, but I have a mental block when it comes to the PD4045 distribution panel regarding the charger which is not lithium compatible although some agree it is fine on LA profile. I'm torn between 2 options:Your diagram looks correct. I see the monitor shunt.
Your converter, when supplied AC from shore power will provide the 12 vdc to the distribution panel (and charge the battery).
1. As drawn, disconnecting charger in panel and use external lithium charger but not sure if converter can be connected to supply coach 12v but not charge.
2. Install new lithium converter/charger (disconnect existing conv/charge) (remove victron external charger) put in place of junction box (shown) and run 12v output to 12v rv dist. panel then AC would run as shown to AC side of distribution only. Will 12v out from dist. to batteries also bring power from batteries when running inverter?
DVD
New member and getting older
I’d leave it like shown. If you don’t like the LA profile (unlikely), then upgrade the converter to LI compatible. The upgrade modules allow for a swap out of just the converter, leaving all DC wiring intact (less work).
So all I need to do is disconnect the converter wire from the AC side of the rv panel and run as shown? Seems to simple, but I overthink things. The converter upgrade for my distribution panel is a constant 14.6 but progressive is going to change it to a 2-stage in the future, otherwise they have a stand alone model with 3 or 4 stage lithium profile.
I'm going with this as you suggested, thanks.
I have things laid out very close so my run from the Lynx to inverter is 6' at most and I used the calculator on Explorist Life and planning on a 3000W inverter when this 2200W dies and came up with 2/0 cable. I'm getting the cable, lugs & heat shrink from Temco. I figured 250A in the calculator and I believe it figures 120% for cable and fuse which I will use 300A fuse. Sound about right?
I'm going with 2/0 cable for inverter. I need to change the camper battery cables because they're too short, they are currently 6 awg but I have a bunch of 4 awg, so my question is if that would be an issue using the 4?Your diagram looks correct. I see the monitor shunt.
Your converter, when supplied AC from shore power will provide the 12 vdc to the distribution panel (and charge the battery).
I've changed the batteries and cables with the inverter connected but nothing running off it and it's been hooked to shore power for a couple weeks and the batteries are down to 80% on the stock rv LA converter. If that's the most that converter will maintain the batteries, it seems I'm losing potential power that a lithium charger would give me.
The stock converter should initially hold 13.6 volts and will charge to 100% after a day.
Some do drop to 13.2 volts after a few days as the converter figures this is long term storage or float. This is perfectly good for LFP even if not at 100% 24/7. Cycle the power if heading out the next day to travel and arrive at 100%.
Virtually all the 'lithium' converters charge at the absolute max 14.60 volts. This frequently will trip the BMS protection if the cells are not in perfect balance. Some even hold 14.60 volts indefinitely and is not good for long term use especially in summer heat.
Lithium converters are a bit overrated IMO.
Agreed. If charging from shore power or a generator I would rather use a programmable inverter/charger.
I'll try that we're leaving Sunday for a few days, but be on shore at the campground.
As Boondocker states, maybe I'll look for a programable charger (don't need the inverter part).
Didn't end up going camping, but did cycle the power-no change. My monitor now reads 65% @ 13.2V, I isolated the batteries and they are at 13.2 as well as getting 13.2 from the RV converter. I then connected the lithium charger I bought with the batteries and it shows charged and didn't come on. I guess I don't understand how lithium works because it seems that 65% when connected to shore power should be closer to 80% or better even with the FLA converter.
