diy solar

diy solar

Grounding question

Victron forgot to put in their manual, that every time you stop to park your RV, you should pull out your 6ft copper ground rod and sledge hammer, pound the rod in, and ground your solar gear for safety/lightning strike, and when you leave use your slide-hammer to pull it back out (or it can get expensive to leave the rods there)...

I think best practices have improved since then, I just keep my vehicle chassis tethered to my home's ground rod with a 1000' 4/0 copper tether. I'm somewhat limited in where I can travel now (and I cant make more than 2 turns in a single direction, other drivers find the tether problematic, but you can't put a price on safety. I'm saving up to buy a 10,000 foot tether so I can commute across town safely ;)
 
I don't see a ground on the 100/50 or chasis ground off batteries.....in this schematic.

An omission on the part of Victron for the former. A trip to the optometrist is in order on the latter. The ground is there on the negative bus bar, at the top of the bus bar, represented by faint yellow and green.

My Victron 100/50 does have a ground screw and the instructions were quite clear that it was to be used. The Victron manual is a bit confusing about solar panel grounds. The wording makes it sound like Victron doesn't want the panels directly grounded.
 
I think best practices have improved since then, I just keep my vehicle chassis tethered to my home's ground rod with a 1000' 4/0 copper tether. I'm somewhat limited in where I can travel now (and I cant make more than 2 turns in a single direction, other drivers find the tether problematic, but you can't put a price on safety. I'm saving up to buy a 10,000 foot tether so I can commute across town safely ;)

I'm holding out for a wireless ground tether.
 
I think best practices have improved since then, I just keep my vehicle chassis tethered to my home's ground rod with a 1000' 4/0 copper tether. I'm somewhat limited in where I can travel now (and I cant make more than 2 turns in a single direction, other drivers find the tether problematic, but you can't put a price on safety. I'm saving up to buy a 10,000 foot tether so I can commute across town safely ;)

Maybe Samsung or someone will come out with wireless grounding next, where the receptacle just has to be placed near the ground. Then you wouldn't have to spend so much on cable and all that extra fuss hehe...
 
Maybe Samsung or someone will come out with wireless grounding next, where the receptacle just has to be placed near the ground. Then you wouldn't have to spend so much on cable and all that extra fuss hehe...
I'm holding out for a wireless ground tether.

At apple we specialize in not fixing problems you have, and fixing problems you don't have.
If you own all the latest apple devices consider purchasing our latest, the I-earth. Now you can carry your earth-ground with you wherever you go. Its a sleekly packaged 7.4mm thick, ultralight space-grey magnesium container of true-earth-ground material sourced from the Peruvian Andes, With a Retina grade gorilla glass 4 viewing window allowing full true-vision HD viewing of your earth material. It contains over 200mL of the highest quality true-earth-ground that can be sourced.

Thank Apple for solving another problem that definitely needed solving. We know none of you complained about a headphone jack, and none of you want to pay $150 for headphones which used to cost $10, but we fixed it for you anyways. We know nobody in the history of computing has ever said 'I have too many USB ports, I wish my laptop had only one USB-C port, and I wish i couldn't use it when my laptop is plugged in' but we solved that for you too. Continuing in that tradition we have introduced the I-earth, the I-earth pro, and the I-earth cloud.

The I-earth starts at only $999 for the 200mL version or you can upgrade to the pro version for an additional $500 if you require 400mL of true-earth-ground. You must use apples proprietary ground cables which are not compatible with non-apple devices and are not compatible with older (or newer) apple devices. Each I-ground-cable starts at only $49, or you can upgrade to the $99 dollar cable if you need more than 12 inches. Or step into the modern era with the I-earth cloud. For $99 a month, apple will store upto 200mL of true-earth-ground in one of their iCloud datacenters. Use your apple ID to wirelessly ground your devices the modern way without the bulk or pesky wires. *additional data charges may apply, grounding only available on 4G LTE networks. For an addional $100 you can personalize your I-Earth with our proprietary formulations of true-earth-ground material. Choose from Vibrant Utah Red, Hawaiian Black, Sahara Sand, or Bahama White to really express your personality.

With the I-earth, ground wiring is a thing of the past, reserve yours today.
 
I started to feel bad for contributing to taking this discussion on grounding off topic on a humorous tangent and derailing the discussion.. I went back to the original post to figure out who OP (original poster) was so I could PM them and apologize and ask if they wanted the off topic posts removed. Turns out I am the OP and I've been responding to my own thread from 8 months ago without even realizing it.... :rolleyes:
 
At apple we specialize in not fixing problems you have, and fixing problems you don't have.
If you own all the latest apple devices consider purchasing our latest, the I-earth. Now you can carry your earth-ground with you wherever you go. Its a sleekly packaged 7.4mm thick, ultralight space-grey magnesium container of true-earth-ground material sourced from the Peruvian Andes, With a Retina grade gorilla glass 4 viewing window allowing full true-vision HD viewing of your earth material. It contains over 200mL of the highest quality true-earth-ground that can be sourced.

Thank Apple for solving another problem that definitely needed solving. We know none of you complained about a headphone jack, and none of you want to pay $150 for headphones which used to cost $10, but we fixed it for you anyways. We know nobody in the history of computing has ever said 'I have too many USB ports, I wish my laptop had only one USB-C port, and I wish i couldn't use it when my laptop is plugged in' but we solved that for you too. Continuing in that tradition we have introduced the I-earth, the I-earth pro, and the I-earth cloud.

The I-earth starts at only $999 for the 200mL version or you can upgrade to the pro version for an additional $500 if you require 400mL of true-earth-ground. You must use apples proprietary ground cables which are not compatible with non-apple devices and are not compatible with older (or newer) apple devices. Each I-ground-cable starts at only $49, or you can upgrade to the $99 dollar cable if you need more than 12 inches. Or step into the modern era with the I-earth cloud. For $99 a month, apple will store upto 200mL of true-earth-ground in one of their iCloud datacenters. Use your apple ID to wirelessly ground your devices the modern way without the bulk or pesky wires. *additional data charges may apply, grounding only available on 4G LTE networks. For an addional $100 you can personalize your I-Earth with our proprietary formulations of true-earth-ground material. Choose from Vibrant Utah Red, Hawaiian Black, Sahara Sand, or Bahama White to really express your personality.

With the I-earth, ground wiring is a thing of the past, reserve yours today.

I wonder if they will come out I-earth cordless anti-static ESD wrist straps for working on servers in the datacenter? That cable is annoying and always gets in the way...
 
An inverter charger designed for mobile/marine applications (UL 458) will handle this internally. When in 'inverting mode' I believe neutral is bonded to the inverter chassis.
I have an understanding of the neutral ground switching that is built within inverter chargers. In fact there are inverter chargers that have the relays built in to the switching that are not UL 458 listed. And your post makes a good distinction between equipment grounding and system grounding. I read about that in the other thread this was discussed but it's good to be reminded of it :)

What I don't understand is why the ground lug on inverters used in mobile applications is needed. I understand why it is needed in non mobile applications where that lug is used for an earth ground.

In a mobile application the inverter ground lug is supposed to be tied to chassis ground. Chassis ground is tied to the battery negative. So what is the purpose of using the inverters ground lug? Isn't it tied to the inverters negative terminal?

As you know I am planning on getting an inverter charger. When I had a UPS I would unplug it during severe storms for fear it would get hit with lightning. I would like to be able to do the same thing with an inverter charger. When it is on grid power, we know it's safely grounded. But what happens when I unplug it from the grid? What can I do to prevent myself from being shocked? Would connecting the inverters ground lug to battery negative suffice? This is where I am confused.
 
Turns out I am the OP and I've been responding to my own thread from 8 months ago without even realizing it.... :rolleyes:
Been there, done that type of thing as you know. If you find yourself PM'ing yourself to apologize then you know you have a problem....:LOL:
 
I have an understanding of the neutral ground switching that is built within inverter chargers. In fact there are inverter chargers that have the relays built in to the switching that are not UL 458 listed. And your post makes a good distinction between equipment grounding and system grounding. I read about that in the other thread this was discussed but it's good to be reminded of it :)

What I don't understand is why the ground lug on inverters used in mobile applications is needed. I understand why it is needed in non mobile applications where that lug is used for an earth ground.

In a mobile application the inverter ground lug is supposed to be tied to chassis ground. Chassis ground is tied to the battery negative. So what is the purpose of using the inverters ground lug? Isn't it tied to the inverters negative terminal?
I think you might be misunderstanding to some extent the purpose of the inverter case ground lug, and also potentially the nature of earth-ground but that is a separate convo (or maybe I am misunderstanding you).

My understanding is that it is part of the equipment grounding system. The equipment grounding system gives current an alternate path back to the source, if there is a fault that energizes the conductive casing of a component like the inverter. This (1) should hopefully allow enough current to flow to trip the OCP and clear the fault (de-energize the circuit (2) ensure there is a much lower resistance path than any human that might come into contact with the energized case and accidentally complete the circuit.

Consider a situation where a DC current carrying conductor inside the inverter comes lose and makes contact with the inverter case. The circuit has been broken, without an EGC (or other path back to the source), no current flows , consequently no overcurrent protection is triggered to de-energize the circuit and the fault condition is still present, potentially unnoticed, and a threat, until something happens to complete the circuit.

The way I understand it, the goal of the EGC is to clear the fault and minimize the chances of current flowing through things it shouldn't.

This is one of the simplest examples, this example could apply to other components as well, not just the inverter. I think there may be other more complex scenarios with an inverter as well. I stuck to the DC side for simplicity.

Untitled Diagram.png


In my understanding,
  • The normal current flow in this circuit would be: Battery Pos --> fuse --> Pos Bus --> inverter DC Pos --> Inverter DC Neg --> Neg Bus -- Battery Neg
  • If there were an internal fault inside the inverter: Battery Pos --> fuse --> Pos Bus --> inverter DC Pos --> Inverter Case --> Case GND -- Equipment ground wire --> Neg Bus --> Battery Neg
  • And if there were an internal fault and the system works as designed (as in the above bullet point) the Overcurrent protection would quickly blow and there would be no current path.
It is my understanding that this basic scenario would work essentially the same if chassis-ground in the diagram above were replaced with earth-ground and everything else remained the same.


One final and separate consideration, going back to the neutral and ground bonding, consider that in inverting mode, the relay bonds neutral to the inverters case ground (or at least that's my understanding). But if you haven't actually connected the case ground to anything, have you bonded neutral and ground? I wouldn't think so, but I haven't thought this through yet.


*As with all my posts on grounding (and pretty much everything else of consequence ;)) my usual disclaimer applies. My understanding is incomplete and still evolving, and I might get some things wrong. Its a complicated topic and I have at best a rudimentary understanding.
 
Some great explanations here. I would like to add that without grounding, fuses and circuit breakers might not work. It would be possible for the insulation of a positive cable to wear down and make contact with the van chassis, when that happens the fuse wouldn't blow. When this happens to a second cable, the maximum current flow could be the combined fuse ratings and that could start a fire. You could solve that by having a fuse in both the positive and the negative wires, but it is more cost effective and simpler to have a common ground. (Although less likely, that problem could still happen if two positive wires connected though)

Everything we do is a balance between risk and money. And if there was any doubt, Covid19 has shown us that we can not agree on what is an acceptable risk.
 
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Victron forgot to put in their manual, that every time you stop to park your RV, you should pull out your 6ft copper ground rod and sledge hammer, pound the rod in, and ground your solar gear for safety/lightning strike, and when you leave use your slide-hammer to pull it back out (or it can get expensive to leave the rods there)...

You should also have an anti-static strap just for extra safety:
View attachment 28768


:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
That is just too funny. But we did use vehicle ground straps dragging on the ground and a separate ground clip on the delivery hose on our gasoline delivery trucks.
 
S&B power from the mains. Two hot lines and one divided between them for a neutral. But it is not a neutral until connected to good old mother earth. Then there is a fourth wire a good old mother earth connection at the power plant and transformers through the grid. The codes restrict the S&B to one cross connection of the neutral and the earth ground. It can only be at the power entry point to the S&B. It cannot be at any sub-panel.
My point is AC from the grid has a connection to the real mother earth, called ground. Obvious reason, I guess.
Some how we started calling vehicle chassis, & negative, ground. But Dc current in a vehicle does not have any reference to mother earth. If we connect our negative battery to the vehicle chassis, the chassis becomes the reference to negative through out the vehicle. Please note I do not recommend using the chassis negative return for any but low ampere, non-critical circuits. My inverter, charging devices, communication devices, refrigerator, and safety devices are all wired with two wires. Positive and negative from the battery, through buss bars. All negative buss bars are also connected to the vehicle chassis. The English with their positive chassis connections called theirs earth. Just more confusion.
 
Some of it depends on if the device is an isolated or a non-isolated grounding device (meaning the device negative lead could be internally using the same as the device chassis ground, or the input negative and output negative are commonly grounded together, or isolated non-common grounds), but grounding a chassis is just a good measure on all equipment if especially if you're getting noise problems through the stereo or other equipment. When we used to build car stereos with lots of amps, EQs, bandpass filters, yada, yada, noise was a big problem on certain applications (and sometimes adding in ground-loop isolators on RCA cables was the solution).

Grounding is also a best practice to ensure controlling potential static ESD from building up on a particular device chassis in relation to a chassis of another device in the system... You can treat the entire vehicle like it's an Earth, and ground the crap out of everything, and it's fine. And if you want you can add the 6ft-pole ground pole thing when you park, you can't have too many grounds, you just have as many as you find practical...
 
The vehical DC electrical system, that includes the AC produced by an inverter, has no reference to mother earth. There is no benefit to having an earth ground rod. It will do nothing for the DC system. A dragging wire, chain, or belt could help with static if you have that problem. But it would be better if you connected yourself with a static ground reference. That is why most foil-hats do not work. The wearers overlook the ground wire.
 
The vehical DC electrical system, that includes the AC produced by an inverter, has no reference to mother earth. There is no benefit to having an earth ground rod. It will do nothing for the DC system. A dragging wire, chain, or belt could help with static if you have that problem. But it would be better if you connected yourself with a static ground reference. That is why most foil-hats do not work. The wearers overlook the ground wire.
I was going to add to this that there is a potential benefit in having a ground connection to the chassis of the PV panels, in case they’re hit by lightning, but then I realised that unless you ground them with sufficiently thick wire to carry a lightning bolt to ground, you may find your ground wire burns out and the lightning finds a route through your system wiring to the charge controller. Maybe not worth doing then?
 
I think best practices have improved since then, I just keep my vehicle chassis tethered to my home's ground rod with a 1000' 4/0 copper tether. I'm somewhat limited in where I can travel now (and I cant make more than 2 turns in a single direction, other drivers find the tether problematic, but you can't put a price on safety. I'm saving up to buy a 10,000 foot tether so I can commute across town safely ;)
I don’t have to worry here as my electrical is in a 87 Westy ?
 
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