Heat without electricity recommendations.

[Johneb]

Efficiency is often interchanged (inaccurately) for expense. But it does indicate with some imagination and understanding that the wood costs so little per BTU that it is remarkably inexpensive.

In most northern regions the cost/btu of using propane is virtually the same as heating with grid electricity. Propane can be convenient but dollar efficiency is only in the price per gallon versus heating oil.

I know a lot of people in northern Vermont that have, too. But then there’s that spiderweb or buildup of dust or something and the burn gets some yellow and people die- especially after insulation upgrades.

I WOULD NOT DO THAT EVER​

The air is already moving - convectively. That’s what makes them spin. I think those are a waste of money to satisfy the minds of the uninformed that need the visual comfort.

That has some attractive features, but…

Have you considered the 40k-BTU draft-induced pellet stoves? Cheaper than oil and way cheaper than propane or electricity per BTU. They offer an in-plenum water heating tube that will thermocyle to a storage tank and permit using a 12V circulator to transport some heat to other rooms or for domestic hot water.

This still makes one dependent on supply chain fuel (unlike wood) but- depending on region- offer 50% to 80% less cost per btu than propane and electric heating. AND IT RUNS WITH ZERO ELECTRICITY, is UL approved, and EPA compliant.

That’s what I would do, and will someday.
You can buy a small-volume pellet press for <$1000 that you can use to make your own pellets from blended hardwood/softwood chips from loggers and mix in brush, hay, dry field grasses for a ‘free’ component.

But straight up using pellets bought by the pallet is a huge savings over propane. And no electricity required.

Do you have a link to this kind of pellet stove?

 

[12VoltInstalls]

you have a link

US Stove is even on Amazon

 

[nycamper62]

I'm a huge fan of the diesel "Parking Heaters" at my cabin. Ducting gets the heat to where I want, they heat up the place quick, sip diesel, and run on 12v which makes them solar friendly. I have 3 so far, 2 installed and 1 spare in a box that I can rotate out if it gets sooted up from running low loads for long periods.

While I know some people that have installed these outside and piped the heat in, I think the pump ticking noise would drive me nuts. Same reason I don't have a ticking clock in my apt. or camp.

 

[Rednecktek]

The big pink pump cover and careful mounting take about 90% of that noise away, but yes OMG THE TICKING!!!

 

[12VoltInstalls]

OMG THE TICKING

I’ll have to figure that out I guess

Same reason I don't have a ticking clock in my apt. or camp

that wouldn’t bother me, don’t even hear it as it’s ‘environmental noise.’ Like some people run a fan for white noise, or use an app.
My parents (in their 80’s) have my great grandmother’s wedding present from the late 1800’s running in their living room. It was present in my childhood home, as well. Have to wind it every few days. It’s a comforting, incessant sound if I even hear it at all?

 

[Rednecktek]

The nice thing is that because that pump is positive displacement you can stick it pretty much anywhere that the tubing reaches to. Definitely get one of the pump silencers, it makes a HUGE difference. Getting the pump off a wall even an inch with some rubber pads or hanging it from zip ties will make a big difference as well.

 

[OffGridForGood]

Problem(s): low PV electrical supply during winter, heat.
Solution: Co-generation. Run a generator (pick your fuel) to make heat and power a few hours per day.
Just need to work out how to set this up so it is quiet safe and automated...ok I will leave that to others.

 

[LeoThomson]

Solution: Co-generation. Run a generator (pick your fuel) to make heat and power a few hours per day.

Excess solar might well be cheaper than the cost of fuel. same with massive insulation, ground source heat pump, etc. But that depends on the situation and will be different depending on the location..

 

[OffGridForGood]

Excess solar might well be cheaper than the cost of fuel.

OP says he lacks solar, ergo no 'excess' unless they can store from summer to winter. (if we crack that nut, I have a lot of summer solar I could sure use during Nov to Jan every year!)

 

[LeoThomson]

OP says he lacks solar, ergo no 'excess' unless they can store from summer to winter. (if we crack that nut, I have a lot of summer solar I could sure use during Nov to Jan every year!)

Sorry, I don't think I made myself clear.

Increasing the installed kWh of solar panels would improve winter production, depending on the location, that might or might not be more cost effective than a generator.

In my location solar production is so low during winter (dark cloudy days for weeks on end), even adding more insulation and solar would not be enough. In other places it could be.

 

[OffGridForGood]

I assume the OP has already considered and rejected 'more solar PV' due to local conditions, and thus lead to the posting looking for heating alternatives that do not rely on electrical input, as they stated.
If they had access to nat. gas a small residential sized co-gen CHP would seem like a near ideal solution to the low PV winter months. AFAIK these are not (yet) available in a suitable size for a single residence. I have thought about using 3-way valve to a generator rad system to pull heat for hydronic heating, never tried it though. I am sure if not already out there, it is coming.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

adding more insulation

Heating in the northern climes is definitely something that one has to factor heavily into planning when living here there. Insulation is a particularly important area to attend to perhaps not as much for cost savings as much as for livability; comfort is almost secondary.
Insulating, however, is often misunderstood by many professionals and diy-ers alike. “Tight” building envelopes have to managed for air quality and moisture- people sometimes (maybe often) know this, but more importantly is the longevity of the structure- the indoor air quality doesn’t matter much if the structure begins having paint failure, structural issues, or develops mold. Air exchangers waste a lot of heating dollars, but you sorta get that back with the benefits of housing longevity and overall increased energy efficiency.
One trend on the local-to-me chart is super-insulated structures most often with foam but often with fiberglass or “rock wool.” Typically modern techy “hippies” or out of staters or younger educated move in and build this rube goldberg house with 2x10” walls and R30 fiberglass or thick spray-in foam (thick foam cracks in winter).
Funny thing is there is a falling curve on the installed effectiveness of insulation as it gains “R Value.” More isn’t specifically better; some more can be beneficial while a lot more is only fractional more insulating in practice than “some” more of a lesser thickness, but at a cost that is roughly doubled.
Choices regarding windows, doors, and life habits will save more in heating BTUs than doubling expense on doubling insulation values.

The air exchange factor is such an important detail and I don’t claim to fully understand but I’ve been aware of insulation values and air quality since the (1979?) experimental house builds by UNH with input from MIT. I saw the houses frequently as I lived not far and The Journal Of Light Construction published on the subject.
More insulation can be an improvement but more effective insulation is better, and the house’s health and human health are two benefits. If a particular approach saves, say, $200/year on heating cost but what should be a 15-20-year paint job begins failing early requiring maintenance ….the ten-year cost savings (10x$200) of $2000 pales in comparison to the cost of repainting when decent paint alone is $55/gallon and labor could be $40-$150/hr depending on where you live.

 

[hwy17]

I used a Williams Direct Vent 30k for years. I liked that it uses outside combustion air, so no inside air gets vented. Sure the 60% efficiency isn't great, and neither is my 60% efficient propane water heater, but that's worth it to me for the fact they don't depend on any electric connection at all.

 

[Supervstech]

I used a Williams Direct Vent 30k for years. I liked that it uses outside combustion air, so no inside air gets vented. Sure the 60% efficiency isn't great, and neither is my 60% efficient propane water heater, but that's worth it to me for the fact they don't depend on any electric connection at all.

I have converter several of them to spark ignition. Likely could use a gas log ignitor and make one battery relight. Bump the efficiency up to 72% and not use any fuel when not heating…

 

[OffGridForGood]

Sure the 60% efficiency isn't great, and neither is my 60% efficient propane water heater, but that's worth it to me for the fact they don't depend on any electric connection at all.

Time for an upgrade? -use solar to provide the electric to run high(er) efficiency units?
For Santa Cruz CA, as long as you have enough PV for Dec/Jan the rest of the year is no issue?

 

[hwy17]

I have converter several of them to spark ignition. Likely could use a gas log ignitor and make one battery relight. Bump the efficiency up to 72% and not use any fuel when not heating…

Yeah we used to turn the pilot out in summer. By my calculation that thing could burn like $20 a month at our high propane prices.

 

[hwy17]

Time for an upgrade? -use solar to provide the electric to run high(er) efficiency units?
For Santa Cruz CA, as long as you have enough PV for Dec/Jan the rest of the year is no issue?

We do have heat pumps now but primarily burn wood in winter. Working on the solar but our house is uninsulated with single pane windows and it takes a disgusting amount of BTU's to keep toasty.

 

[mvonw]

My nighttime solution:
1) 12 volt electric heating mattress cover
2) This Artic version..

 

[Supervstech]

We do have heat pumps now but primarily burn wood in winter. Working on the solar but our house is uninsulated with single pane windows and it takes a disgusting amount of BTU's to keep toasty.

I have discovered SEALING wire and plumbing wall penetrations to be amazing at reducing energy loss.
Commercial sprayfoam guns with replacement refills work amazingly.
Sealing all seams and penetrations attic and crawlspace work to improve insulation value tremendously

 

[S610]

These two sided propane furnaces look very nice; they heat two rooms and function without electricity except for optional fan/thermostat.

I also want a small wood stove for heat/cooking just in case the propane runs out.