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Heavy Duty Rated Battery Disconnect from SunFunKits

Amazon has the same ones, all the same under different names. When sizing amperage, consider what the max discharge and charge of the battery, not necessary the battery amperage. Usually depending on the brand is 1/2 or so of the battery total amperage. If exceed it, the bms shut down. So, the 250a will handle for example SFK 300 amp no problem, using on 12 vdc system and higher.

What brand are you using for inverter, solar, etc. We went all victron here. In our case, we only have 300 amp/12vdc for each bank, as we are using the lynx power in as a bus bar with 4 circuits, but each one has their own fuse (mod added fuse just as the distributor lynx 1000) and the 250a switch for each battery using 2/0. We can go 2 gauge. The four cable will be of equal lenght (5 feet max)
 
I can recommend these.

ASI NDB1-125C125-2, Miniature Circuit Breaker,DIN Rail Mount High Current Circuit Breaker, 125A, 2 Pole, 240Vac, 60 Vdc, C Trip Curve https://a.co/d/6QjAZJc
we have two ac breaker for the multiplus, one for incoming ac and one for out going ac. We do have 300 amp dc breakers and may replace our switches with it. The breaker would strickly be a switch not for current protection, as our lynx power in modified with 4 circuit and a fuse for each bank. Decided at this time not to use it, as switching dc on and off may shorten the life of these small breakers. Plus 2/0 cable is a bit too big for terminals but can fit. Your link look like DC breakers.. good... Never use AC breaker for DC cicruits. Spark city is what you may end up
 
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Smart question. I don't see polarity markings on the breaker, but then I don't even see markings to show it is good for DC. Amazon listing says 60 V DC.

You need to locate a manufacturer data sheet to determine.

Otherwise, look for a well known name that does have DC ratings, and indicates polarized or not. Midnight sells some CBI and some Carlingtech breakers. Schneider has some DC breakers.

Separately, and maybe this is what you meant by direction, breakers for AC might be intended for line on one side, load on the other. This breaker is marked "Line". Not sure, might have better protection from arcing across the two lines, except I think the poles have insulator between them. Wire connection terminals also have to have clearance (airgap) and creepage (over the surface) between them, and these UL 1077 supplementary protectors don't provide as much as UL 489 breakers.

Most reference I find refer to GFCI.

This mentions breakers suitable vs. backfed or not, but I still don't know the technical reason. A couple comments were given.


"ALL molded case breakers are suitable for back feed use UNLESS marked line and load."

"The line and load issue has to do with energized and de-energized parts when the cover of the breaker is opened and its internal parts are exposed"

"As far as I know, thermal overload mechanism is located near the load side of the CB (in a normal position), if the overheating (due to loose connection) occurs on the load side, the heat will immediately reach the TOM and will cause a trip."
 
Smart question. I don't see polarity markings on the breaker, but then I don't even see markings to show it is good for DC. Amazon listing says 60 V DC.

You need to locate a manufacturer data sheet to determine.

Otherwise, look for a well known name that does have DC ratings, and indicates polarized or not. Midnight sells some CBI and some Carlingtech breakers. Schneider has some DC breakers.

Separately, and maybe this is what you meant by direction, breakers for AC might be intended for line on one side, load on the other. This breaker is marked "Line". Not sure, might have better protection from arcing across the two lines, except I think the poles have insulator between them. Wire connection terminals also have to have clearance (airgap) and creepage (over the surface) between them, and these UL 1077 supplementary protectors don't provide as much as UL 489 breakers.

Most reference I find refer to GFCI.

This mentions breakers suitable vs. backfed or not, but I still don't know the technical reason. A couple comments were given.


"ALL molded case breakers are suitable for back feed use UNLESS marked line and load."

"The line and load issue has to do with energized and de-energized parts when the cover of the breaker is opened and its internal parts are exposed"

"As far as I know, thermal overload mechanism is located near the load side of the CB (in a normal position), if the overheating (due to loose connection) occurs on the load side, the heat will immediately reach the TOM and will cause a trip."
Ok thanks. I am sure I used the wrong term, by bi-directional I meant is it able to have current traveling in both directions (ie 1 direction during charge and 1 direction during discharge of batteries). I'll check out midnight and see if they have something that works. I really just need a disconnect for a 48v battery and going with a din mounted breaker seemed like a good idea, except for the issue on direction of current. Thanks again for your response.
 
Dumb question but are these bi-directional? I assumed circuit breakers were meant for 1 direction. Thanks.
Not polarized.
But have line and load markings. Probably doesn't matter. But I can only recommend following any labeling. (Battery should connect to line)
 
"4 Main technical parameters ●
Electrical parameters
○ Rated voltage (Ue): AC230/240V(1P ); AC400/415V(2P;3P;4P): DC60/80V(1P);DC80/125V(2P)
○ Rated current (In): 50A, 63A, 80A, 100A, 125A
○ Rated breaking capacity (Icn): 10kA
○ Impulse voltage endurance: 6kV"

Sounds pretty good.
 
I meant is it able to have current traveling in both directions (ie 1 direction during charge and 1 direction during discharge of batteries).
Yes
But since the battery holds the most instantaneous available current. It should be connected to the line side.
 
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