Help with tripping WFCO tripping
- Thread starter rhinosun
- Start date
Your big red wire nut, OTOH, looks crazy and wrong (apparently interconnecting a black "hot" wire with a bunch of different neutral wires - neutral wires which must never be connected together, because they are possibly out-of-phase with each other.) Can you please explain this wire nut?
It just looks like that. I had a double take also.
Well, I do want to power my 110 items with the battery. I want to be able to use my electrical plugs when on battery and disconnected from shore. I do not want to use extension cords from the inverter. So, that's what I am working on.
So, are you saying instead of just turning off the converter breaker, just get a bigger inverter?
Here is a video with the WFCO converter breaker on. What you will hear and see is the transfer switch flipping to 12v, the WFCO fan kicks on, then the TV gets power, and then the invertor goes into a fault mode. This all works however if I turn off the WFCO converter breaker.
Side note - I swapped out the breakers to 15 AMP on the WFCO converter.
Side note - I swapped out the breakers to 15 AMP on the WFCO converter.
John Frum
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30 amps@120 volts = 3600 watts.
That requires a big inverter and a big battery bank.
Big is expensive.
How much power do you actually need?
You have a power loop and bigger hardware will not fix that issue in and of itself.
The simple solution is to wire the converter directly off of the transfer switch as shown in post #5.
That way the converter only runs when you are connected to shore power.
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That post 5 is not my transfer switch. Post 18 is. Just for clarification.
So, back to my original question is turning off the main breaker for the converter "fixing" the issue? Everything seems to work when I am in this state.
Just because I have that much available watts doesn't mean I actually have to use it does it?
No. Just turn off the breaker.
That's what I am finally gathering in my thick skull now, haha. Turn the breaker off to the converter (WFCO).
John Frum
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Yes but you can wire your model in the same way.
Your converter just needs to be connected to shore power in parallel with the transfer switch.
That solution relies on the operator not making a mistake.
Its a workaround but not a fix.
Of course not.
Yes but you can wire your model in the same way.
Your converter just needs to be connected to shore power in parallel with the transfer switch.
That solution relies on the operator not making a mistake.
Its a workaround but not a fix.
Of course not.
haha, that is always the problem, operator error.
Let me think about the shore power in parallel with the transfer switch. The limits of my knowledge where passed a long time ago.
Thanks all........
John Frum
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That drawing makes it look harder than it is.
Those snazzy orange connectors are from a company named Wago
The series is 221 and the version is 612.
The 2 at the end indicates that it connects 2 wires.
The 3 wire version ends in 3.
Go get some of the 221-613s and connect your converter to the shore power supply.
Amazon.com: Wago 221-613 LEVER-NUTS 10AWG 3 Conductor Compact Wire Connectors 30 PK: Home Improvement
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And replace those wire nuts.
They tweak my OCD
These are good to have https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Cutter-Stripper-Stranded/dp/B00080DPNQ
You will also want to include a fuse or breaker upstream of the converter.
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Ohhhhhhhhhh! I got it now. Just in case of operator error (not flipping the switch), having the converter connected to shore power will insure there are no issues.
So, I was creating a power loop with the Samlex inverter.
Got it. You all have been extremely helpful. This winter project trailer build is done.
Now, its time to build a back deck on the trailer and install a AC roof top unit.
So, I was creating a power loop with the Samlex inverter.
Got it. You all have been extremely helpful. This winter project trailer build is done.
Now, its time to build a back deck on the trailer and install a AC roof top unit.
John Frum
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That inverter will not even come close to running an air conditioner.
Just saying.
Yea, that will be just for shore power or the generator. I think I would need the mate though for the Honda generator.
Somewhere here on the forum, I saw an automatic transfer switch that had a power out circuit that could be used to power a converter so that the converter isn't in the AC loop (of the main panel). What you need is an ATS with two output circuits.
John Frum
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Well you could do that or you could just replace 2 of the 2 position lever nuts with 3 position lever nuts.
And some over-current protection for the converter.
Code:
This is what you have {
wago_221_612_1 {
|<->mains_hot
|<->ats_hot
}
wago_221_612_2 {
|<->mains_neutral
|<->ats_neutral
}
ats_ground_bar {
|<->mains_ground
|<->ats_ground
}
}
This is what you want {
wago_221_613_1 {
|<->mains_hot
|<->ats_hot
|<->fuse_or_breaker<->converter_hot
}
wago_221_613_2 {
|<->mains_neutral
|<->ats_neutral
|<->converter_neutral
}
ats_ground_bar {
|<->mains_ground
|<->ats_ground
|<->converter_ground
}
}Here is a (cheesy) drawing of what smoothJoey is suggesting (sort of). In the drawing, the assumption is that the 120Vac from shore/generator goes through the inverter, which doesn't always happen.
John Frum
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The inverter is one of the inputs to the ATS.
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