Charging Lithium batter with LA charger (WFCO-8635P_

[cheapBatteryLover]

I read a bunch of threads on this already. But want to confirm if what I plan to do will work.

1. I am planning to buy a 230AH Li Battery for my RV. I usually camp off-grid only for a day or two for now, but might go for longer trips later.
2. I don't want to upgrade my converter for now - want to leave the Lead Acid converter (WFCO 8735P) as is.
3. I will buy a Victron charger for Li batteries and will charge them at home to 100% before I leave, instead of using the converter
4. In the future, I plan to add Solar - and connect the solar directly to the batter with a solar charge controller (probably victron). SO when I am offgrid the solar can top-it off.

Questions:
- Would this plan work? Would i hurt the battery in any way by using a Lead Acid Converter?
- Any gotchas I need to look out for?

 

[MisterSandals]

Any gotchas I need to look out for?

It there is an equalization cycle i would disable that if possible.

1. I will buy a Victron charger for Li batteries and will charge them at home to 100% before I leave, instead of using the converter

Why not just get a big cheap panel and quality charger like a viltron 100/30 and charge in your back yard and learn about solar at the same time. Its VERY similar to using a plugin charger.

 

[mikefitz]

Would i hurt the battery in any way by using a Lead Acid Converter?

No, it will charge the new lithium with the lead profile. There is no equilization. The charge profile is 14.4 charge, 13.6 float and 13.2 maintaining. Most of the time the converter will be at 13.6 volts powering the RV circuits, this should be no problem for the battery.

If you select a battery that has Bluetooth communication so you can, via the app, monitor cell and battery status, this will give confidence that all is well with the battery. Do not purchace a Renogy battery, they are causing many problems
If the battery will be exposed to freezing conditions ensure it has low temperature protection to prevent charging at low temperatures, or consider 'self heating batteries ' .

 

[cheapBatteryLover]

Why not just get a big cheap panel and quality charger like a viltron 100/30 and charge in your back yard and learn about solar at the same time. Its VERY similar to using a plugin charger.

On #2 - you mean get a solar panel + converter instead of a Victron charger? That is actually a good idea that I hadn't thought about. I am not sure if I can dependably charge the battery every time. That is the point I need to think about.

 

[cheapBatteryLover]

It there is an equalization cycle i would disable that if possible.

You mean, there is an equalization cycle in the convertor?

 

[12vDC]

Answer: You wont hurt the battery.

But also: You mentioned not wanting to update the converter, which intimates youre going to use a (the) generator. I couldnt even find any documentation on the model converter you listed and so I would presume it has inferior charging specifications. By not upgrading to a lithium capable converter youre doing yourself a disservice.

Solar charging is always a good idea until there is no sun. My advice would be to upgrade your converter anyways. Then you would not be limited to "one or two days" preparation.

 

[MisterSandals]

On #2 - you mean get a solar panel + converter instead of a Victron charger? That is actually a good idea that I hadn't thought about. I am not sure if I can dependably charge the battery every time. That is the point I need to think about.

There is not much difference between a Victron grid powered charger and a Victron solar charger other than the power source.
In your location, (US), there are lots of big cheap panels you could use.

Why wouldn't you be able to dependably charge the battery from solar as opposed to from grid? Lack of sun or a place to put a panel are about the only differences and limitations.

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One of these:

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One of these:


And some wiring is all you need to start.

 

[cheapBatteryLover]

Answer: You wont hurt the battery.

But also: You mentioned not wanting to update the converter, which intimates youre going to use a (the) generator. I couldnt even find any documentation on the model converter you listed and so I would presume it has inferior charging specifications. By not upgrading to a lithium capable converter youre doing yourself a disservice.

Solar charging is always a good idea until there is no sun. My advice would be to upgrade your converter anyways. Then you would not be limited to "one or two days" preparation.

Sorry, I posted the wrong number. it is WFCO 8735P. Can you check the charging specifications of this converter?

Updating the converter involves a lot of wiring changes hahah. I am a little nervous of mucking it up. Otherwise will replace with the WFCO-8735AD(auto detect) or progressive dynamics. Maybe I should just suck up to it.

 

[12vDC]

Sorry, I posted the wrong number. it is WFCO 8735P. Can you check the charging specifications of this converter?

Updating the converter involves a lot of wiring changes hahah. I am a little nervous of mucking it up. Otherwise will replace with the WFCO-8735AD(auto detect) or progressive dynamics. Maybe I should just suck up to it.

35A model? It might be old phraseology however that unit describes the Bulk “mode” as Boost, and Absorption as a nominal mode at 13.6V with charge and load. Float is 13.2V.

Im thinking this unit operates at 13.6V and will not bring your battery to full charge. (My system floats at 13.6V)

My buddy is having the same issue with his RV and old converter. He runs and runs the generator and is puzzled when the system goes down on low voltage.

It shouldnt be too much to just swap units? Im asking - IDK
Unless you need to upgrade the cables for higher amperage as well. But that shouldnt be too difficult either.

Yeah man just suck it up

 

[cheapBatteryLover]

One of these:
View attachment 192849

In the PNW, the Sun is the hardest to get hahah

 

[cheapBatteryLover]

35A model? It might be old phraseology however that unit describes the Bulk “mode” as Boost, and Absorption as a nominal mode at 13.6V with charge and load. Float is 13.2V.

Im thinking this unit operates at 13.6V and will not bring your battery to full charge. (My system floats at 13.6V)

My buddy is having the same issue with his RV and old converter. He runs and runs the generator and is puzzled when the system goes down on low voltage.

It shouldnt be too much to just swap units? Im asking - IDK
Unless you need to upgrade the cables for higher amperage as well. But that shouldnt be too difficult either.

Yeah man just suck it up

Yeah that is fair. I don't think it is very difficult to change it. Maybe I should just suck it up like you said! I am wondering about what happens in this scenario:

- RV's existing converter tries to charge battery at 13.6 volts
- I use an external Victron charger to charge at 14.4 volts

Would the battery just charge up at 14.4 and ignore the RV's converter?

 

[12vDC]

Check out the “Similar threads” below. Might give ideas on swapping units.

You can charge with two devices if they are not making AC-DC conversions from the same source.

 

[time2roll]

There are plenty of "lithium" converters with a worse profile. The 8735P should not be an issue.
Post the replacement charger before spending money.

Get out and use it as is. Track the voltage and charge level to see how well it works and meets your expectations.

 

[cheapBatteryLover]

Check out the “Similar threads” below. Might give ideas on swapping units.

You can charge with two devices if they are not making AC-DC conversions from the same source.

Ah interesting. I was thinking about just that lol.

- Connect RV to shore power at campsites
- RV charges the battery at 13.6
- Then I hook up a Victron Li charger to the AC outlet of the RV (which is on the AC side of the converter) and use it to charge the battery

So that would cause issues? I thought the AC and DC lines will be separate. Sorry for the noob questions.

 

[time2roll]

If you are mostly plugged in there is no need for the Victron. Going to 100% is overrated. 97% on 13.6 is fine. The obsession with 100% is a hangover from required lead-acid maintenance.

The usual issue is how fast can the battery be charged to minimize generator run time.

 

[cheapBatteryLover]

If you are mostly plugged in there is no need for the Victron. Going to 100% is overrated. 97% on 13.6 is fine. The obsession with 100% is a hangover from required lead-acid maintenance.

The usual issue is how fast can the battery be charged to minimize generator run time.

WHen you mean generator, you mean shore power here? I don't have a generator and don't plan to use one. Might add solar later.

 

[12vDC]

If you are mostly plugged in there is no need for the Victron. Going to 100% is overrated. 97% on 13.6 is fine. The obsession with 100% is a hangover from required lead-acid maintenance.

The usual issue is how fast can the battery be charged to minimize generator run time.

When you mean 13.6 is fine, you mean for Lithium? The OP is asking about a 230Ah Li battery.

 

[time2roll]

By 'generator' I mean one of those loud fume emitting rattle boxes.

No rush to charge with utility power available.

 

[time2roll]

Yes 13.6 is fine for Lithium on utility power. Too low for lead-acid. Although the older 8735 from what I hear actually has a better chance to enter boost mode (14.4v) if the lithium is rather low.

Otherwise waiting for a trip report from the OP.

 

[cheapBatteryLover]

Yes 13.6 is fine for Lithium on utility power. Too low for lead-acid. Although the older 8735 from what I hear actually has a better chance to enter boost mode (14.4v) if the lithium is rather low.

Otherwise waiting for a trip report from the OP.

Yeah fair point. Gonna put the 230Ah Li battery and go for a trip for a while.