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How about Using a 1-Phase 120V to 3-Phase 240V Converter Instead of Parallel Inverters?

That I cannot tell you. One horsepower pump needs 750 watts to run but needs 3 to 4 times that to startup
I just meant, assuming the inverter has enough power to handle the startup surge and then some, are there any other hurdles to getting something like a split-phase 120V/240V inverter to run a single-phase 240V pump? I am specifically considering the MPP LV6548, which seems like it ought to have enough power with 6.5kW output.
 
Seems like or ought to have are meaningless variables in physics. Do you know the start up Amps of your pump?
PenTek tech support said 19.6A to start (without soft start) and 4.9A to run it, but there is some question about the exact model. We originally believed it was a 3-phase motor (per the installer) but since it runs from our single-phase generator, it appears to be a single-phase pump. So if it's a PSC 2-wire motor, it could be as high as 7.9/9.1 (full/max-SF) load. If its a 3-wire motor, then it could be as high as 8.4/8.4/0 (Y/B/R, Full Load) or 9.7/9.7/0 (Y/B/R, Max-SF Load). That's all from the spec sheet.

That said, I worded my question poorly. Although I said that the inverter should handle the load, that was an aside. The real question is, assuming an inverter has enough power, are there any incompatibilities or problems running a single phase 240V well pump from a split-phase 120/240 AIO?
 
any incompatibilities or problems running a single phase 240V well pump from a split-phase 120/240 AIO?
Earlier answers suggest the motor should run fine on 240 volts Nine Amps (2.2kW) startup sounds like it is not too much for a 6kW inverter
 
Earlier answers suggest the motor should run fine on 240 volts Nine Amps (2.2kW) startup sounds like it is not too much for a 6kW inverter
Thanks for the feedback. Forgive my ignorance, but I'm trying to figure out where surge amps come into the picture. For example, the PenTek model P42B0010A2 is a 1HP 0.75kW 230V pump, which is listed at 7.9A "Full Load" and 9.1A "Max/SF Load". I don't know what those numbers indicate, but I've heard people say that surge/start draw is 3-5 times running draw. Which number, then, would I triple or quintuple, and shouldn't that be the number to measure against the inverter?
 
I don't know what to tell you? Maybe what you told me about startup Amps is wrong. I had assumed startup and surge were the same. I am not going to be much help because I cannot read your mind nor do I have the pump in front of me. Apparently it is at the bottom of your well.
 
I don't know what to tell you? Maybe what you told me about startup Amps is wrong. I had assumed startup and surge were the same. I am not going to be much help because I cannot read your mind nor do I have the pump in front of me. Apparently it is at the bottom of your well.
I initially told you 19.6A startup. My understanding is that startup and surge are the same. That's why I didn't follow you when you said 9A.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Forgive my ignorance, but I'm trying to figure out where surge amps come into the picture. For example, the PenTek model P42B0010A2 is a 1HP 0.75kW 230V pump, which is listed at 7.9A "Full Load" and 9.1A "Max/SF Load". I don't know what those numbers indicate, but I've heard people say that surge/start draw is 3-5 times running draw. Which number, then, would I triple or quintuple, and shouldn't that be the number to measure against the inverter?
Full load amps are your normal running amps, SF amps are slightly overloaded amps, and Surge amps are called Locked rotor amps
 
Well, a 19Amp start is consistent with a 5 Amp load to run it but now you are saying 9 Amps to run it? It is a guessing game and my suggestion is you pull the pump to verify what it is or get a good Clamp on Ammeter to verify the assumptions. Sorry about my initial mistake.
 
Well, a 19Amp start is consistent with a 5 Amp load to run it but now you are saying 9 Amps to run it? It is a guessing game and my suggestion is you pull the pump to verify what it is or get a good Clamp on Ammeter to verify the assumptions. Sorry about my initial mistake.
I have reached out to the installer and asked him to find his invoice from the manufacturer with the exact model number.
 
Full load amps are your normal running amps, SF amps are slightly overloaded amps, and Surge amps are called Locked rotor amps
The spec sheet has a "Rotor Amps" coluimn but no "Locked Rotor Amps." Same thing?
 
If about 5x the running amps, then yes.

I bought the Harbor Freight $100 1000A AC/DC clamp meter to reach PV string current, battery current, motor starting current. (It has surge feature.)
 
Ok, so I'm an EE but my training is in microelectronics and satellites, so some of this stuff doesn't come naturally to me.

I get split-phase 120V/240V, but I thought 3 phase in the US was considered to be 208V, and assumed it was because of the 120° phase shift between the three lines. I guess I should read up on this...

I guess I'm a little bit skeptical that @forbin actually has a 3 phase 240V well pump. Not many homes have 3-phase at all. It seems more likely that he has a 240V well pump, and the solution is much simpler than we are all making it.
I like this reference: https://ctlsys.com/support/electrical_service_types_and_voltages/
 
I just meant, assuming the inverter has enough power to handle the startup surge and then some, are there any other hurdles to getting something like a split-phase 120V/240V inverter to run a single-phase 240V pump? I am specifically considering the MPP LV6548, which seems like it ought to have enough power with 6.5kW output.
That inverter only outputs 120V, you need two of them for 240V split phase output.
 
Or an auto-transformer (or isolation transformer)
 
Yes, but the spec sheet states that it can generate 120 or 240 with only one 1 unit without paralleling. That's a big difference between it and the LV6548.
It has a low-frequency center tap transformer, and is the model I like the best of MPP right now, but it does have higher idle power usage than all the rest of their models, FWIW.
 
It has a low-frequency center tap transformer, and is the model I like the best of MPP right now, but it does have higher idle power usage than all the rest of their models, FWIW.
Idle consumption is a big deal for me right now. Later, when my array is bigger, I won't care as much, but I'm starting with just 3 panels due to space limitations. Idle consumption has the potential to consume 30% of my daily power production. Also, it's hard to string together 3 panels and keep the array Voc high enough to avoid the cutoff when it gets a little overcast. I don't want to waste money on buying a unit now that I'll replace later when I have more panels. So I have quite the challenge: low idle consumption (like 25-30W) low minimum Voc (like 60-90W), 240V split phase without paralleling, 7000W array input power for when I have more panels, and enough output power to run my well pump. It's a tall order. Any ideas?
 
I'm not an expert, but from what I've seen here the AIO's seem to have higher idle consumption than the separate inverter/chargers. My 6 year old Schneider SW4024 has an idle load of only 26W, which is pretty good. The SW4048 (for 48V systems) uses only 27W. Mine's a low freq inverter too, which handles high inrush current loads a bit better than the high frequency inverters.
 
So I have quite the challenge: low idle consumption (like 25-30W) low minimum Voc (like 60-90W), 240V split phase without paralleling, 7000W array input power for when I have more panels, and enough output power to run my well pump. It's a tall order. Any ideas?
Not so big a challenge. Just get a Schneider XWPro and a Midnight controller. It has run my well-pump flawlessly for years now. The XW has an idle consumption of ~30W/hr.

You first need to understand better what you are feeding into your battery bank. A Voc of 60V will NOT work. A Voc of ~60V means the Vmp will be ~48V. 48V will NOT charge a 48V battery!

You really need to slow down here, and do a bit more study and research before you are ready to start making purchases. The worst mistake you can make is going out and buying stuff first, then trying to figure out how to make it work. The way you keep ping-ponging from one idea to the next suggests to me that you don't yet have a clear understanding of what is needed to accomplish what you want.

Please go back to the questions I made in post #13 and please answer those first before going further. I would suggest you STOP using manufacturer specifications which might be for the wrong pump. I would suggest you emperically determine what the numbers are yourself using a clamp meter with "inrush current" capability. Once you have determined the numbers for your pump, then, and only then are you ready to proceed to the design phase.

BTW, I have several clamp meters, including a very expensive Fluke. It doesn't give me numbers different from an far cheaper imported meter called the Uni-T 216C. I suggest you get one before proceeding.
 
I'm not an expert, but from what I've seen here the AIO's seem to have higher idle consumption than the separate inverter/chargers. My 6 year old Schneider SW4024 has an idle load of only 26W, which is pretty good. The SW4048 (for 48V systems) uses only 27W. Mine's a low freq inverter too, which handles high inrush current loads a bit better than the high frequency inverters.
My LV5048 was pretty similar, I measured an idle draw of 25W when only on battery. People are reporting a ~120W idle draw for the LVX6048, which does seem rather excessive. My Growatt 12000t took ~132W, and my Deye 8k takes about 60W.
 
Not so big a challenge. Just get a Schneider XWPro and a Midnight controller. It has run my well-pump flawlessly for years now. The XW has an idle consumption of ~30W/hr.

You first need to understand better what you are feeding into your battery bank. A Voc of 60V will NOT work. A Voc of ~60V means the Vmp will be ~48V. 48V will NOT charge a 48V battery!

You really need to slow down here, and do a bit more study and research before you are ready to start making purchases. The worst mistake you can make is going out and buying stuff first, then trying to figure out how to make it work. The way you keep ping-ponging from one idea to the next suggests to me that you don't yet have a clear understanding of what is needed to accomplish what you want.

Please go back to the questions I made in post #13 and please answer those first before going further. I would suggest you STOP using manufacturer specifications which might be for the wrong pump. I would suggest you emperically determine what the numbers are yourself using a clamp meter with "inrush current" capability. Once you have determined the numbers for your pump, then, and only then are you ready to proceed to the design phase.

BTW, I have several clamp meters, including a very expensive Fluke. It doesn't give me numbers different from an far cheaper imported meter called the Uni-T 216C. I suggest you get one before proceeding.
I know it is a PenTek XE Series 1HP pump. The manufacturer only makes 6 different models of XE Series Single-Phase 1 HP pumps. 4 of them show Locked Rotor Amps of 41A. The other two show 21A and 24A respectively. My cheap Meterk clamp meter does not measure inrush amps, but I measured running amps at 7A. The typical rule of thumb is that inrush amps should be 3-5 times running amps, which would put it at 21-35A. That means I probably have the PenTek P42B0010A2, which is listed at 21.7 inrush amps. However, just to be safe, I'll use the highest number on the spec sheet and assume the inrush is 42A, which works out to ~10,000 W. So it seems that an inverter that can handle 10,000 W for a few seconds once a week should do the trick.

Oh, and I forgot to mention one other data point in my challenge. I want to do it with equipment from MPP, Growatt, EG4, or another vendor of similar quality. I cannot afford Schneider, Sol-Ark, or the other big boys who are, shall we say, very proud of their equipment. No doubt they have great reasons for their pricing, but their reasons do not put extra money in my bank account.
 
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No doubt they have great reasons for their pricing, but their reasons do not put extra money in my bank account.
I would guess one of the,"reasons " is the cost of. UL listing which, I agree, does not put money in your bank account but for some, makes permitting easier.
 

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