diy solar

diy solar

Hybrid LV 6048 inverter "IN" and "OUT" markings should not be mis-connected. What does this mean?

w8dev said:
What's your ultimate goal in using the solar system? Just as a backup in case the grid goes down or to get you using less grid power?
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1)The goal is to not put any power back into the grid. 2) …While also saving money.

I’m starting to think that unless I get a solark 15K and tie the main two power leads from the grid to the inverter, and then take the output leads back into the main panel. (Expensive as it is)… I would NOT NEED a sub panel. And it would even be dumb to get one.

Also, even if I got a megarev/EG4-8K (sol-ark clone) to offset the consumption, there would be no guarantee that the CT measurements would even engage or disengage the inverter to offset the consumption. (Settings seem like a hassle to configure and set up), so I would HAVE TO get a sub panel.

Would my assumption be correct on this?
 
You need a sub panel no matter which one you choose.
You can turn your existing main panel into the sub panel (requires modifying of neutral and grounding) . And add a main disconnecting means between the meter and hybrid AIO.
 
timselectric said:
You need a sub panel no matter which one you choose.
You can turn your existing main panel into the sub panel (requires modifying of neutral and grounding) . And add a main disconnecting means between the meter and hybrid AIO.
Click to expand...
For the solark 15K, isn’t it possibly to simply add a single breaker next to the inverter and connect L1,L2, N and G straight from the utility to the inverter? Is a sub panel really needed?

And then output L1,L2, N and G straight to the main breaker?

Or do you need to mess with the Neutral and grounding bond to prevent amps running through ground?

Assuming that I would want all appliances to be hooked up to the main panel… and not allocate anything to a sub panel? I’m not a fan of hidden sub panels…
 
LasseH said:
For the solark 15K, isn’t it possibly to simply add a single breaker next to the inverter and connect L1,L2, N and G straight from the utility to the inverter? Is a sub panel really needed?

And then output L1,L2, N and G straight to the main breaker?

Or do you need to mess with the Neutral and grounding bond to prevent amps running through ground?

Assuming that I would want all appliances to be hooked up to the main panel… and not allocate anything to a sub panel? I’m not a fan of hidden sub panels…
Click to expand...
If you DO NOT want grid-down operation, you can backfeed into the main. With appropriate addition of CT to regulate export.

If you DO want grid-down operation, you either need to have main (converted to subpanel) or new critical load subpanel downstream of hybrid. OR you pick a hybrid/ESS that will disconnect main from utility. This requires however putting an ATS/autotransformer in front of the main, and most likely conversion of main to a subpanel.

The reason for paragraph 2 is that you need some kind of transfer switch to disconnect grid when grid down before you are allowed to form an island. The two subcases are different ways to achieve this.
 
LasseH said:
For the solark 15K, isn’t it possibly to simply add a single breaker next to the inverter and connect L1,L2, N and G straight from the utility to the inverter? Is a sub panel really needed?

And then output L1,L2, N and G straight to the main breaker?

Or do you need to mess with the Neutral and grounding bond to prevent amps running through ground?

Assuming that I would want all appliances to be hooked up to the main panel… and not allocate anything to a sub panel? I’m not a fan of hidden sub panels…
Click to expand...
As I said. You can convert your existing main panel into a sub panel. And add a disconnecting means (this could be a fusible disconnect or a single breaker enclosure) between the meter and the hybrid AIO(Sol-Ark). N/G bonding would be at the first means of disconnect. And the loads (sub) panel would have neutral and ground separated.
To clarify: any panel after the first means of disconnect is a sub panel. (Per NEC)
 
I’m not sure why you’re so apposed to installing a critical loads panel. It’s actually not too difficult. And honestly it isn’t near as costly as some of the other implements.
 
timselectric said:
As I said. You can convert your existing main panel into a sub panel. And add a disconnecting means (this could be a fusible disconnect or a single breaker enclosure) between the meter and the hybrid AIO(Sol-Ark). N/G bonding would be at the first means of disconnect. And the loads (sub) panel would have neutral and ground separated.
To clarify: any panel after the first means of disconnect is a sub panel. (Per NEC)
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7134ABB5-9D8B-45AA-8432-F8B04E1AB6DC.jpeg

Looks pretty simple to me..
They don’t say anything about a sub panel.. ?

Edit: basically what you mean is the the 200A fusible disconnect is the main panel, even if it is just a single enclosed breaker/fusefolder. (Not connected to ground)

I’m sure Sol-Ark keep the name: Main breaker panel, to not cause any confusion…
 
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Gavin Stone said:
I’m not sure why you’re so apposed to installing a critical loads panel. It’s actually not too difficult. And honestly it isn’t near as costly as some of the other implements.
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Maybe I’m biased…I’m just opposed to the idea of having appliances in two different locations because it adds complexity to the system.

If I wanted to shut off certain appliances, I would just keep it off and not use/rely on these appliances at all. (Turning off breakers in the main panel)

Maybe I fail to see how having only fridge and HVAC to a sub panel because the rest of the appliances is “luxury”..

But to me.. those are the appliances that use up most of the power anyways.. the rest of my house is fairly low power anyways… So why seperate it?
 
LasseH said:
Maybe I’m biased…I’m just opposed to the idea of having appliances in two different locations because it adds complexity to the system.

If I wanted to shut off certain appliances, I would just keep it off and not use/rely on these appliances at all. (Turning off breakers in the main panel)

Maybe I fail to see how having only fridge and HVAC to a sub panel because the rest of the appliances is “luxury”..

But to me.. those are the appliances that use up most of the power anyways.. the rest of my house is fairly low power anyways… So why seperate it?
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You don't have to separate anything. If the Sol-Ark is capable of powering all of your loads.
 
But, someone needs to tell Sol-Ark to correct their drawing. They really messed it up on the 15k.
I just checked the 12k manual, and it's right.
I guess that I have never seen the 15k drawing. Or I would have caught it sooner.
 
@robby If you're still in contact with someone from Sol-Ark. Could you let them know that their drawing for the 15k is wrong? They have the N/G bonding in the sub panel.
 
timselectric said:
@robby If you're still in contact with someone from Sol-Ark. Could you let them know that their drawing for the 15k is wrong? They have the N/G bonding in the sub panel.
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I’ll be curious to hear their reasoning of the diagram (unless it’s just a copy/paste issue). Was trying to figure out how that would pass an inspection.
 
LasseH said:
Awesome, thanks for the clarification. ?
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You can follow that drawing with the exception of the grounding. All available main grounds (driven,water, Uffer,gas) and N/G bond should be moved to the disconnect before the Sol-Ark.
Hopefully Sol-Ark will put out a corrected drawing, quickly. I'm sure that it was just an oversight.
 
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w8dev said:
I’ll be curious to hear their reasoning of the diagram (unless it’s just a copy/paste issue). Was trying to figure out how that would pass an inspection.
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It wouldn't.
Unless, you managed to get an ignorant inspector. Which is highly possible these days.
I spend more time explaining the code to inspectors than asking for advice, these days.
 
All of the older, experienced inspectors were taken out by covid. This industry is screwed for several years to come.
 
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