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Is This Normal Behavior For EG4 6500 and Other EG4 Inverters.

robby

Photon Vampire
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May 1, 2021
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I know this guy must be a member on the forum, but I am wondering is this kind of constant Grid Power consumption normal when in this mode of operation.


 
Yes, in SUB mode.
The grid and inverter output are basically grid-tied.
It constantly pulls 300 to 500 watts from the grid to make sure that it doesn't export. This is how it handles variable load changes. So that it has time to adjust.
 
Yes, in SUB mode.
The grid and inverter output are basically grid-tied.
It constantly pulls 300 to 500 watts from the grid to make sure that it doesn't export. This is how it handles variable load changes. So that it has time to adjust.
Wow, that really gives a hit to the overall monthly efficiency.
If I use generous time periods of daylight, lets say 7 hours in the summer, he is wasting between 2KW and 3.5KW of Grid power daily when he really does not need to. Yes it's being pumped into the battery but if your battery bank is sized to small or just right then it's just wasted energy.
That is about 100KWh per month. That would be a 25% increase on my Grid energy usage each month if I just switched Inverters and used his.
 
It's only because of SUB mode.
I only used it, when I didn't have batteries.
At that time I was just reducing my utility consumption. So, it wasn't really a loss.
But, other than batteryless operations. It's not very efficient at all.
 
Wow, that really gives a hit to the overall monthly efficiency.
If I use generous time periods of daylight, lets say 7 hours in the summer, he is wasting between 2KW and 3.5KW of Grid power daily when he really does not need to. Yes it's being pumped into the battery but if your battery bank is sized to small or just right then it's just wasted energy.
That is about 100KWh per month. That would be a 25% increase on my Grid energy usage each month if I just switched Inverters and used his.
The issue I see is the battery bank is not large enough and PV is not large enough for the loads.

Either reduce the overnight loads (which might mean using grid power for those items) or add batteries and PV.

No free lunch, if you want to have a small system for load reduction, the trade off is grid usage to enable SUB as Tim mentions.
 
SUB mode is a budget friendly way to get into solar.
Once you get serious about your system. SUB mode is just a memory.
My system could operate right now in SUB mode, it's all ready to go on that end. Still building the battery bank, and ordering more cells soon. The big battery box is coming along, it's been here over a year now. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/house-system-battery-box-hoffman.32305/

Wife asked when I was moving the big blue box into the house and I said I'm not moving a big blue box in but rather a big white box. So after I get this all assembled, I have to tear it down and paint it.

I spent yesterday nickel plating all the large busbars (48 inches long) that run down each side of the cabinet and those that run from T fuses to those busbars, then from batteries to T fuses. 4 batteries of 280Ah in that cabinet with compression using one end of the cabinet as the endplate. Originally was 2 280Ah batteries, then it became 3, now it's become 4 as why not, it's only a few dollars more and I was already fabricating it to add more battery capacity later? :)

Back to topic, I have no desire to run in SUB mode at this point, I just don't see the objective.
 
I have no desire to run in SUB mode at this point, I just don't see the objective.
If you are paying the utility company for all of your electricity, currently. And you already have solar installed. Lowering your utility bill would be the objective. This is how my system started. As soon as I had the solar and inverter installed. I began enjoying my ROI.
 
Actually it is not just SUB, it does it in SBU too once it switches to grid. I cannot set it to not charge the battery. I can only reduce it to 2amp per inverter when in Grid mode. It constantly uses more grid than it should. Totally disappointed. Sorry only when in SBU mode does it do this, so it doesn't pull grid all the time. Still disappointed. Better off just using a transfer switch but really inconvenient.
 
Actually it is not just SUB, it does it in SBU too once it switches to grid. I cannot set it to not charge the battery. I can only reduce it to 2amp per inverter when in Grid mode. It constantly uses more grid than it should. Totally disappointed.
You have to set it to solar only charging, instead of solar and utility.
Setting #16 I think.
 
You have to set it to solar only charging, instead of solar and utility.
Setting #16 I think.
I have tried that and it does not work as intended. It will use grid no matter what setting when in sbu and after it switches to grid.
 
I meant to say it will charge the battery with grid no matter what setting...solar only, both etc.
 
I meant to say it will charge the battery with grid no matter what setting...solar only, both etc.
It shouldn't.
Not sure why yours is.
Maybe there's another setting overriding it.
I'm not familiar with all of the settings on those.
 
The SBU setting does keep an "idle" load on the grid if you have it on. My understanding is this is to keep the inverter synced to the grid and to be prepared for a changeover.

If you don't want this draw, just monitor your battery manually and flip the breakers in your grid panel off until you need it to bump your batteries with the grid.

This is a necessary evil if your system is not capable of generating enough power to be full offgrid.
 
SUB mode is a budget friendly way to get into solar.
Once you get serious about your system. SUB mode is just a memory.
I also use SUB mode when severe weather is expected. To maximize battery. Those are the times most likely to produce a grid down event here.
 
I have tried that and it does not work as intended. It will use grid no matter what setting when in sbu and after it switches to grid.
It needs this buffer current to be able to react to load changes. (At least that's how I'm justifying it to myself)
I like this 2 amp 'leakage current', lack of a better term. When my batteries are discharged to the 'back to grid' setting in my inverters, they are low. So then my system switches over to grid and my batteries otherwise just sit there depleted. But this leakage current charges them off the bottom through the night till the sun comes back up and my 'back to battery' voltage is reached.
I don't believe you can totally reduce this to zero.
Except with switches.
Edit to add... I mean, you're already on grid for your loads. It's only adding 1.5 or 1.6 amps beyond your loads. And that is a net charge for the battery.
 
In SBU.
And the effect on current into the battery and SOC.
 

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It needs this buffer current to be able to react to load changes. (At least that's how I'm justifying it to myself)
I like this 2 amp 'leakage current', lack of a better term. When my batteries are discharged to the 'back to grid' setting in my inverters, they are low. So then my system switches over to grid and my batteries otherwise just sit there depleted. But this leakage current charges them off the bottom through the night till the sun comes back up and my 'back to battery' voltage is reached.
I don't believe you can totally reduce this to zero.
Except with switches.
Edit to add... I mean, you're already on grid for your loads. It's only adding 1.5 or 1.6 amps beyond your loads. And that is a net charge for the battery.
With my particular off grid inverter the idle power for operation is drawn from the battery which can lead to a dead battery. No leakage current from the AC side. My solution is I am installing a 3 amp battery charger with a timer on the AC in side so the it can be set to run during nighttime hours. Because I will not want this every night I plan to just unplug it when not faced with Winter and multiple days of poor weather.
 
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