This question is about leaving to go to work for 8hr and a full battery bank. What do you do, leave the stereo on? The panels still make power And has no where to go. So how would you deal with not needing power and yet still producing? This is more for r.v. Boondocking Than a home site
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John Frum
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What solar charge controller do you have.
Better solar charge controllers will detect that the battery bank is full and switch to float mode.
None. I am looking at a system that can run a full wood shop out of a r.v. Work all week then at wood shop on weekends. So most of the time will be low consumption.
John Frum
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You need some device between the pv panels and the system.
That device is a solar charge controller.
In your case it might be part of an all-in-one unit like this https://www.mppsolar.com/v3/110v-120v-low-voltage-series-2/
I can't help you without more information.
I am looking at a growatt 6K LF split phase.i believe this would have a float mode.
John Frum
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Devil is in the details.
Check the manual.
If it does not, binging an all in one, is it possible to use an external device?
John Frum
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Yes that would be discrete solar charge controller.
A functional overlap but it can be done.
Thank you, this has removed some of the fog I’m in.
Ok now if one would want to start off with panels, all in one inverter( mpp, growatt....) that can achieve a wood shop but can only get two 100ah lfp battery Instead of 8lfp battery’s and wants to eventually get to a 48v lfp battery bank. I.e. does size matter? Not a pun
John Frum
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Sorry, not sure what you are asking.
Hedges
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To size your system, determine how many Wh of consumption you expect while the sun shines, and how many Wh you need after dark.
This makes all the difference in battery bank size (cost).
Also the ratings of the largest motor you want to run. That determines wattage (and voltage) of inverter (typically has to be 5x label rating of motor in order to start it.) If you want to run commercial 3-phase equipment, you can either set up an inverter for that, or use a VFD.
This makes all the difference in battery bank size (cost).
Also the ratings of the largest motor you want to run. That determines wattage (and voltage) of inverter (typically has to be 5x label rating of motor in order to start it.) If you want to run commercial 3-phase equipment, you can either set up an inverter for that, or use a VFD.
Will do ty
SolarQueen
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The Growatt 6k inverter is likely a 48V battery bank system. You cannot field change it. Assuming you are talking about 12V batteries, you need at least 4 in series to start with. It helps a heck of a lot if you are more specific with what models of all of the equipment you are looking at, otherwise we are just guessing.
Yes it is a 48v. Listed as model spf6000dv us. Split phase low frequency they compare it to a mpp 5048. Growatt claims an 18k surge. Thank you for the battery answer. Looks like i will start off with a 4 bank.
I just noticed, the red dwarf. Nice
Ok now if one was to put up 8-300w panels and wants to use an all in one inverter (growatt 6K)(Pv 145v/60a) would a combiner box be good,bad,ugly? Using the all in one you have amps/volts limits on your Pv input. Will the combiner box help/do this, assuming you stay with in the combiner box limits, or do you still need to group your panels in sets of two in order meet the amp/volt requirements of the all in one. I do know my 300w panels produce a volt/amp numbers higher than my all in one is rated for so I am doing 4 groups of 2 unless the combiner box negates this.
Hedges
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The combiner box is just a bunch of fuses.
Your PV strings have to be configured to meet Voc limit of charge controller or all-in-one. Also any Isc limit.
But you can adjust Isc by aiming some strings in different directions. That gives you more hours of production, lower peak, so you can over-panel by perhaps 50% and not clip production. (many allow more watts/amps available than they actually make use of)
Only something like an optimizer adjusts what peak voltage is produced.
