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Midnite classic 150

Bluedog225

Texas
Joined
Nov 18, 2019
Messages
2,917
I’m thinking of buying a Midnite 150. I’ll use it for a little 12 volt system for a while (lighting) and then incorporate it into my full meal deal later. It will give me some redundancy later, and it will also help me decide between Midnite and all Victron.

I had two questions. First, do the Classic 150s have the nuance to properly keep a LiFePO4 happy in terms of charge regulation? Either for my 12 volt 200 ah SOK or my 48 volt SOK rack batteries? I read somewhere that they were more geared towards lead acid. But that may be old info.

The other question relates to understanding the difference between the Classic 150 and the Classic 150 SL. Specifically, why would I want to give up the arc-fault protection. Seems important.

And one more follow-up question. Will I find ethernet helpful? What for?

The price difference between the classic 150 asd the 150 SL is only about $50.

Thanks in advance.
 
Hi Bluedog,

I have not used my Classics with LiFePO4 batteries, BUT, many users do use Classics with these batteries.

Here is a Comparison Chart of standard Classics, vs Classic SLs:

The SL also lacks the Ethernet port, which will limit its ability to remotely monitor via the Local App, as well as via the MidNite Logging site -- MyMidnite.

To me, SLs make more sense as a second/third Classic on a single battery system, where the lack of its reporting ability would be less-missed.

IMO, but will add, we have been running three Classics since early 2011, and they all are still going strong. AND, the Classics have the widest array of abilities to control/monitor external devices as opportunity loads, etc, as well as great MidNite USA Support, the MidNite Solar User Forum, plus many other advantages. FWIW, Luke.
 
I’m thinking of buying a Midnite 150. I’ll use it for a little 12 volt system for a while (lighting) and then incorporate it into my full meal deal later. It will give me some redundancy later, and it will also help me decide between Midnite and all Victron.

I had two questions. First, do the Classic 150s have the nuance to properly keep a LiFePO4 happy in terms of charge regulation? Either for my 12 volt 200 ah SOK or my 48 volt SOK rack batteries? I read somewhere that they were more geared towards lead acid. But that may be old info.
I think it is bad info that's been spread around. The classic only reads voltage to the tenths place (12.1 not 12.001)
So depending on how precisely and how far you are pushing the pack it may be a limitation for you, I don't think it should be for most.
The other question relates to understanding the difference between the Classic 150 and the Classic 150 SL. Specifically, why would I want to give up the arc-fault protection. Seems important.
Agree, I think that price is the only reason to go with the SL.
And one more follow-up question. Will I find ethernet helpful? What for?
Monitoring, that's what I use it for
The price difference between the classic 150 asd the 150 SL is only about $50.
Makes it an easy decision to get the full fat classic!
Thanks in advance.
 
Thanks for the helpful info.

I’m a computer illiterate. Does the Ethernet capability require Wi-Fi? I’m completely off grid. Thanks
 
How about this, how do (or do you) monitor your other solar equipment? Do you go look at the tiny screen on the unit? Or do you grab something else to check the system?
 
Been using Classic ‘150‘s since Midnight introduced them, both of mine are full Classic 150’s with all the bells and whistles. Even if everything else is down I have full system monitoring and control from the front panel display. I do use the built in port for accessing my system from local network. The classic does not support wi-fi built in, it is a 10 base T network which can have a wi-fi port attached externally.

I use both large format Flooded Lead Acid ( Rolls-Surette S-530) and LFP banks (super diy pouch cells as well as prismatic cells) and have no difficulty charging either banks.

I download a script from my monitoring PC to change charge profiles

One of my “must haves” is 24/7/365 power with no fail.....everything has a shadow device which can be switched in in minutes....
 
Do you use your Midnights directly to the batteries and bypass your Inverter?
Yes, very old school.....The Midnight controllers all connect to battery sets directly, I have two sets of FLA L-16 batteries @426 a.h. each set, they are not an exact match so are charged seperately one controller to each bank as one set are Rolls-Surette house-lighting batteries and the other are Interstate traction batteries. The sets are paralled when running large loads from the low freq. Magnasine MS4024AE inverter such as shop or deep well use. the smaller Midnight controllers are Kidd controllers and each connects to one type lithium battery which run the ultra clean Exeltech inverters, a XP-1100 for small household use and an Exeltech XP-600 for dedicated medical use (totally isolated for minimum EMI/RFI )
Add to the mix a total of 4 Trace C-40 PWM controllers which are setup as diversion controllers which divert excess solar power to low voltage hot water heating...

and way more stuff in sort of experimental mode.....home built electric bike using Tesla 20700 cells NMC chemistry....
 
Thanks for the helpful info.

I’m a computer illiterate. Does the Ethernet capability require Wi-Fi? I’m completely off grid. Thanks
I have 3 x Classic 150s. They have old fashioned internet jack / wire and you can assign a static IP address for you're local network or use DHCP
1672470115310.png.

There is software you can install to view/change settings over the internet. They have a published specification - you can write you're own code to get/set values if you wish.

Voltage wise - they have software settable voltage 'offsets' you can set to achieve pretty accurate voltage readings if you care to measure/make the adjustments. I use them with a Lithium-ion DIY powerwall.
1672470147378.png

Mine are 4+ years old and working perfectly. Have provided 68,538Kwh(s) of PV power to date.
 
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I use the calibrate function with a Fluke 87 and get very accurate voltage settings, my 2 Classic 150 are at least 10 y.o. now, nary a hitch, they just work
 
I use a Classic-200 with 2100W of Panel with a 24V LFP Bank and it provides 79A Charge in full sun.
Works very well without many issues other than the initial tweaking when I switched from FLA to LFP but I did run LFP & FLA concurrently for almost 2 years.
I have the Ethernet Port directly connected to my router and use the Midnight Solar Status panel to monitor & adjust settings.
The only issue with regards to NON-Lead Acid is that the WizBangJr (their smartshunt) is only 1 Decimal Place Accurate as mentioned above so it is not as accurate as it could be but with LFP being 99% Efficient it is actually pretty close.

There is a wee Gotcha one must get used to though. The Voltage Offset settings within the classic are a GREAT Function to make sure you are reading voltages with drop accounted for and corrected. The gotcha, is that when the SCC is charging and you set the offset (difference between what is seen at Batt Terminals & the SCC Terminals) it is accurate BUT the moment the SCC is no longer outputting power the offset changes. Ideally, there should be Two Offset Settings, one for when Charging & one for when not charging but it is just a minor thing.

Santa brought me a new Classic-150 with 6 QCell-395W Panels which will produce 94A Charge. This will be installed in Parallel with the 200 taking on Master role in Follow Me mode which allows for unified configuration & monitoring.

BTW: An amazing Deal on Classics:
Midnite Solar CLASSIC 150 MPPT Charge Controller $669.98


There is also 3rd party software that can interact with Midnight Classics and some DIY Rolled software with NodeRed and other programming languages like Python & Java.

NOTE on Classics
They do not come with the Shunt & WizBangJr, these have to be purchased separately. The default Shunt is a Deltec 500A/50mv (Top Quality product). This Smartshunt only works with the Classic's and has no other external output.
 
I think it is bad info that's been spread around. The classic only reads voltage to the tenths place (12.1 not 12.001)
So depending on how precisely and how far you are pushing the pack it may be a limitation for you, I don't think it should be for most.

Agree, I think that price is the only reason to go with the SL.

Monitoring, that's what I use it for

Makes it an easy decision to get the full fat classic!
My 12k settings are the same. They work great together.
 
NOTE on Classics
They do not come with the Shunt & WizBangJr, these have to be purchased separately. The default Shunt is a Deltec 500A/50mv (Top Quality product). This Smartshunt only works with the Classic's and has no other external output.
What's the benefit of the Shunt and Whizbang Jr?
I've been running my classic 150 for a few months without it.
 
What's the benefit of the Shunt and Whizbang Jr?
I've been running my classic 150 for a few months without it.
It's their Smartshunt, reads the voltage in/out and is far more accurate for SOC/DOD and also enables the use of EndAmps with regards to charging and that is quite an important value to use when charging Lithium Based batteries.
 
The WbJr and a 500A, 50mV Shunt is a very accurate Ah counter, from which, SOC, DOD, Remaining Ah is calculated by the Classic.

For me, the Net Ah is the most important output from the Wb.

Here's the WbJr Manual:

AND, the Wb is surprisingly inexpensive:

Shunt;

FWIW, Luke
 
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This may be a factor in whether or not to buy a midnite classic. The tech support guy isn't very Patient/friendly. When I need to replace mine, I will find a different company.
 
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