More DALY smart BMS issues

[MnM]

Yes, that sounds like a defective BMS. Daly customer service sucks, so be prepared for a problem. I hope you used a credit card, otherwise they have little incentive to replace it, and will try the "jump through hoops" until they hope you give up.

This is so sad. I ordered the BMS mid feb. and now waited for the Light-Board for another month. I saw that you also had a 24V 8s 250Amp Daly. But yours is called R32w-FL08. Mine is called R32w-GA29. Do you know what the last 4 letters/numbers are?

 

[Just John]

This is so sad. I ordered the BMS mid feb. and now waited for the Light-Board for another month. I saw that you also had a 24V 8s 250Amp Daly. But yours is called R32w-FL08. Mine is called R32w-GA29. Do you know what the last 4 letters/numbers are?

No, so far I haven't been able to figure out their model naming scheme. They really need to get their act together, simplify, and standardize, otherwise another vendor will come in and take their market share.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

I have looked again at the connections for both the temp-sense, the light-board and the Bluetooth (UART) and they are as far in as I can push them with a tiny screw-driver. And the balance-lead-connector is also tripple-checked.
I can also add that I did a "Conductivity Test" for all the leads. As done in this Video:

And that looks good as well.

The only methods I know of are the following.
Plug in the sense wires.
Short the bms at B- and P-.
Press the button on the light board.
If all of the wires work and they are fully pushed in then I don't know where to go from there sorry.
Maybe someone else knows a fourth way.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

Just a thought. But a guy named Steve makes Overkill. I joined his reddit for a while to watch him and he works tirelessly to help people.
Never seen that before on any of the products here on the forum or elsewhere.
I know it sucks but you might want to look into his stuff.

 

[MnM]

The only methods I know of are the following.
Plug in the sense wires.
Short the bms at B- and P-.
Press the button on the light board.
If all of the wires work and they are fully pushed in then I don't know where to go from there sorry.
Maybe someone else knows a fourth way.

Thanks for your input.
When you say "short the bms B- and P-" is the B- connected to the most negative pole of the battery-pack at that stage or is that irrelevant?

 

[MnM]

Just a thought. But a guy named Steve makes Overkill. I joined his reddit for a while to watch him and he works tirelessly to help people.
Never seen that before on any of the products here on the forum or elsewhere.
I know it sucks but you might want to look into his stuff.

I have read a lot of good things about Overkill and I have had a look at the BMS´s from Overkill.
The 24V 8s model can only handle 100Amp discharge though. The Daly that I have can handle 250Amp discharge.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

Thanks for your input.
When you say "short the bms B- and P-" is the B- connected to the most negative pole of the battery-pack at that stage or is that irrelevant?

It states on every BMS I have ever seen B- and also a P-.
If yours does not have that then I don't know what to say sorry.

EDIT: ALSO by short it out I mean like less than a second. Don't hold it there a long time.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

I have read a lot of good things about Overkill and I have had a look at the BMS´s from Overkill.
The 24V 8s model can only handle 100Amp discharge though. The Daly that I have can handle 250Amp discharge.

Ah ok. I did not know that. Maybe ask him if he can make a 250 amp one for you then.

 

[MnM]

It states on every BMS I have ever seen B- and also a P-.
If yours does not have that then I don't know what to say sorry.

EDIT: ALSO by short it out I mean like less than a second. Don't hold it there a long time.

Yes mine have B- and P- very clear printed on the cables.
My question was if it is necessary to have the B- connected to the battery most negative when the short is made?
Or does it have the same effect to just short B- and P- without the B- connected to the most negative on the battery?

 

[Deleted member 9967]

Yes mine have B- and P- very clear printed on the cables.
My question was if it is necessary to have the B- connected to the battery most negative when the short is made?
Or does it have the same effect to just short B- and P- without the B- connected to the most negative on the battery?

Well the sense wires won't work if everything is not set up and connected.
Also the BMS is useless if everything is not already setup.
At least this is how I have done it.
Lastly, if the B- is not connected. Then WHAT are you shorting out? If there is no power going through everything?

As for shorting out. I have always [and only] ever seen it done on the BMS itself.

 

[TouchHarder]

Just wanted to say thank you. Shorting the pins worked. Was really not having a good day before i read this. Thought I had a defect BMS.

 

[ereams65]

Since the "LightBoard" was on it´s way I decided to wait for it to arrive. And today it did.
So I plugged it in and pushed the button. Nothing. Nothing lights up on the board and nothing happens when I push the button on the lightboard. So when I measure all the 8 leads I get 3,33V and that is the same as when I measure each cell. When I measure from the most positive to the most negative on the battery I get 26,7V. When I measure from the most positive to P- (with B- connected to the most negative on the battery) I get 26,3V. So when measuring over the BMS I seem to lose 0,4V. What can be wrong? Is there anything more I can test or di different?

That .4v difference is more than likely a calibration issue between your MM and the BMS, i.e. not a problem. Just adjust for it when you set your parameters and you should be fine.

 

[MnM]

That .4v difference is more than likely a calibration issue between your MM and the BMS, i.e. not a problem. Just adjust for it when you set your parameters and you should be fine.

Thanks for your input. My biggest problem right now is that the BMS won’t start and Daly support is so sloooow. :-(

 

[ereams65]

Thanks for your input. My biggest problem right now is that the BMS won’t start and Daly support is so sloooow. :-(

What I learned was it takes a smidgeon of charge to wake it up. I use my Benchtop power supply set for charging pack voltage. The second it senses the charge, I can open it in the app. One other thing, when you do get it awake; go into the settings and change the "Sleep" time. I think it's factory set at 3600 and it was recommended to me to change that to something like 65600 (I'm not home so I'm guessing here) and that solved the connection issue going forward.

 

[ultrakiev]

What I learned was it takes a smidgeon of charge to wake it up. I use my Benchtop power supply set for charging pack voltage. The second it senses the charge, I can open it in the app. One other thing, when you do get it awake; go into the settings and change the "Sleep" time. I think it's factory set at 3600 and it was recommended to me to change that to something like 65600 (I'm not home so I'm guessing here) and that solved the connection issue going forward.

To 15300S

 

[MnM]

I have a 24V battery so I would then need a PowerSupply/Charger that can do 30V or so, right? I don’t have a charger. I borrowed one that coul charge 15V by 30A when top balancing. But I guess that a charger of 15V can not wake up a 24V battery? The instruction videos say that you should be able to wake up the BMS with the light board or with a charger. The light board does not work for me so I suspect that my BMS is broken.

 

[ultrakiev]

I have a 24V battery so I would then need a PowerSupply/Charger that can do 30V or so, right? I don’t have a charger. I borrowed one that coul charge 15V by 30A when top balancing. But I guess that a charger of 15V can not wake up a 24V battery? The instruction videos say that you should be able to wake up the BMS with the light board or with a charger. The light board does not work for me so I suspect that my BMS is broken.

Get 28V charger!
Take a picture of your BMS. Is it's smart one? I recently had issue with my 60Amp 4S smart BMS. Double checked wiring no issues. Until I opened my diagram and checked wiring 3rd time and "BOOM" done.
So make sure you wiring is correct even if you so confident.
I found on different forums, guys plugged USB cable ( for computer hookup) plugged to power bank. This method worked for me. I had only 8V between P- and battery + .

 

[MnM]

Get 28V charger!
Take a picture of your BMS. Is it's smart one? I recently had issue with my 60Amp 4S smart BMS. Double checked wiring no issues. Until I opened my diagram and checked wiring 3rd time and "BOOM" done.
So make sure you wiring is correct even if you so confident.
I found on different forums, guys plugged USB cable ( for computer hookup) plugged to power bank. This method worked for me. I had only 8V between P- and battery + .

Yes, it’s a smart BMS. I have both PC and Bluetooth input cables. I have measured my balance leads so many times I have lost count. They all measure 3.3V. The power bank sounds interesting. If you find that forum thread please drop it here. And thanks again for your input and comments.

 

[ultrakiev]

Yes, it’s a smart BMS. I have both PC and Bluetooth input cables. I have measured my balance leads so many times I have lost count. They all measure 3.3V. The power bank sounds interesting. If you find that forum thread please drop it here. And thanks again for your input and comments.wirin from

Yes, it’s a smart BMS. I have both PC and Bluetooth input cables. I have measured my balance leads so many times I have lost count. They all measure 3.3V. The power bank sounds interesting. If you find that forum thread please drop it here. And thanks again for your input and comments.

I definitely won't find the thread. But you can try plugging in your bms in a power bank.
Again are you sure about your red wires from bms to the cells

 

[Deleted member 9967]

What I learned was it takes a smidgeon of charge to wake it up. I use my Benchtop power supply set for charging pack voltage. The second it senses the charge, I can open it in the app. One other thing, when you do get it awake; go into the settings and change the "Sleep" time. I think it's factory set at 3600 and it was recommended to me to change that to something like 65600 (I'm not home so I'm guessing here) and that solved the connection issue going forward.

I mentioned this all ready in post number 38.
Will repeat it here though.

I always use the lightboard now. But since resetting the sleep timer I do not need it.
Once you have the bluetooth working on your phone. Under parameter settings is something called
"sleep waiting time"
Punch in the number 65535
then click "set"
The password [if needed] is
123456
The S will appear on its own.
This will set the sleep time to forever on.

 

[MnM]

I mentioned this all ready in post number 38.
Will repeat it here though.

I always use the lightboard now. But since resetting the sleep timer I do not need it.
Once you have the bluetooth working on your phone. Under parameter settings is something called
"sleep waiting time"
Punch in the number 65535
then click "set"
The password [if needed] is
123456
The S will appear on its own.
This will set the sleep time to forever on.

This is what I will try next (on Monday):
-Check the balance leads again so they are wired correctly
-Test to connect a Powerbank to the PC cable
It that does not work I will try to hock up the battery-pack including BMS to my MPPT that is connected to 1kw solar panels. Do you think the MPPT will sense the correct battery voltage and start?
When I connect the battery-pack + BMS to my 24V inverter it does not start.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

This is what I will try next (on Monday):
-Check the balance leads again so they are wired correctly
-Test to connect a Powerbank to the PC cable
It that does not work I will try to hock up the battery-pack including BMS to my MPPT that is connected to 1kw solar panels. Do you think the MPPT will sense the correct battery voltage and start?
When I connect the battery-pack + BMS to my 24V inverter it does not start.

I don't know about MPPT's sorry.
I have never used one.
I use the Daly BMS with the super charged 280 Ah mobility scooter I have.

 

[geokatsipo]

8s 24V LiFePO4 DALY problem 100A , with BT commont port R16A-GC05
i have 4 different DALY's but this new one has a problem. I connected OK and while measuring B+ and B- = 26,7V , B+ and P- = 26,3V !!!! and it doesnt kick in the inverter. When I connect the inverter cables, it drops to 3,4V. any idea? should I open dispute in AliExpress??

 

[isslandboy]

Once every now and then I have to short out the B- and P-. I do it momentarily. A fraction of a second with a wire.
This has helped to "start" the BMS for me when nothing else will.
Hope this helps.

Hi, I have a dumb daly bms, It doesn't seem to want to activate. I wired in a keyless socket and a 110 bulb to the pack. When I touch the B- and P- I get the BMS activated, but it won't stay on, any thoughts?

 

[Deleted member 9967]

Have you changed the sleep time on the app on your phone?

Like I said above and repeat here for your convienience.

Once you have the bluetooth working on your phone. Under parameter settings is something called
"sleep waiting time"
Punch in the number 65535
then click "set"
The password [if needed] is
123456
The S will appear on its own.
This will set the sleep time to forever on.


Try it and see if that helps.