More DALY smart BMS issues

[curiouscarbon]

Yes 65535 this is a magic Number to disable the sleep timer, the only working one... Never put 0 in. You can not wake up again Your BMS...
.

it sounds like you observed this behavior first hand ?

very good to know do not use 0

 

[Deleted member 9967]

this 65535 is it some sort of a magic number?..or you just need to enter a random huge number...i put a 6 digit random number in mine...no issues so far..2nd day running

Yeah, I just picked it out of the air like everyone else that read the manual did.

 

[Berseker]

Yeah, I just picked it out of the air like everyone else that read the manual did.

hahahahahahahhha, mine didnt ship with a manual. just winged it after reading comments on the web. luckily have sen the manual on this forum. will review my settings once more

 

[Deleted member 9967]

hahahahahahahhha, mine didnt ship with a manual. just winged it after reading comments on the web. luckily have sen the manual on this forum. will review my settings once more

Neither did mine. I had to go search for the manual like everyone else here.

 

[Berseker]

this 65535 is it some sort of a magic number?..or you just need to enter a random huge number...i put a 6 digit random number in mine...no issues so far..2nd day running

it sounds like you observed this behavior first hand ?

very good to know do not use 0

SO was informed that the inverter has shutdown. am guessing the random 6 or 7 digit number i put in the sleep setting has counted down and the bms entered sleep mode??..

can someone confirm if my theory is correct. ...charge controller and inverter are hooked up through the bms, and no light switch...any idea how i can wake up the bms?...am quite far from the setup so need to relay instructions to someone there

 

[ereams65]

You can apply voltage with a desktop power supply

 

[Berseker]

You can apply voltage with a desktop power supply

ITS A 16S SETUP...SO NEED IN EXCESS OF 52V?....does the desktop power supply produce such high voltage?
..since the positive terminal of the charge controller is connected to the general busbar where the inverter is connected, can i simply take a short piece of cable n jump between the battery pack negative and the general ground busbar where the bms and charge controller negative terminals are also connected...................would this work???..instead of disconnecting the charge controller terminals and hooking it up briefly to the battery pack negative terminal?

 

[ereams65]

ITS A 16S SETUP...SO NEED IN EXCESS OF 52V?....does the desktop power supply produce such high voltage?
..since the positive terminal of the charge controller is connected to the general busbar where the inverter is connected, can i simply take a short piece of cable n jump between the battery pack negative and the general ground busbar where the bms and charge controller negative terminals are also connected...................would this work???..instead of disconnecting the charge controller terminals and hooking it up briefly to the battery pack negative terminal?

Yes, As long as you have a desktop capable. I wouldn’t try the jumper because you might trigger an short circuit in the BMS.

 

[rickst29]

so Daly looked at the screen shot I took of the BMS and they said it was due to a high voltage event. I am guessing the inrush to charge the inverter but who knows. got a couple more o play with and I am done with Daly looking at the chargery system as we speak, but will give the DALY one last chance. it was working fine prior to unhooking it to move the battery bank and the BMS wires... guess I get the chance to tear apart a daly to look inside to see where the magik smoke leaked from.

Inverter inrush would create a high CURRENT event, and generally be recoverable. High voltage would be connecting to a "bad" charger, and would be unrecoverable (and such a charger would be likely to kill a JDB as well).

I'd disconnect the main terminals and BMS sensor/balance from the Battery pack, and check the voltage on individual cells (voltage on the individual bus bars). I'd top balance any low cells, carefully, and then check the output voltage of your "big" power supply before replacing the BMS and re-installing the battery.

If you want to retry the Daly, be sure to Install BMS in the correct order of things: #1, sensor/balancing wires to the battery cells/bus bars (do NOT yet plug the connector into the BMS). #2, connect BTS. #3 connect B-. #4, connect Battery "+". #5, NOW connect the sensor balance wire connector. #6, connect "P-". #7, connect the light board to turn it on. But they're saying it's been killed by high voltage from a mis-connected "charger", and they're probably right.

 

[curiouscarbon]

"ATX desktop computer power supply unit (PSU)"



"Benchtop/Desktop DC power supply"

usually devices looking like the top one provide fixed voltage rails such as -12V, -5V, 3.3V, 5V, 12V

usually devices looking like the bottom one provide variable voltage rail between 0-X volts where X is usually greater than 10.
(the one in the image is X=18)

 

[Berseker]

IN THE EVENT OF A BMS LVD, would a lightboard be able to turn the bms on?

 

[Daddy Tanuki]

Inverter inrush would create a high CURRENT event, and generally be recoverable. High voltage would be connecting to a "bad" charger, and would be unrecoverable (and such a charger would be likely to kill a JDB as well).

I'd disconnect the main terminals and BMS sensor/balance from the Battery pack, and check the voltage on individual cells (voltage on the individual bus bars). I'd top balance any low cells, carefully, and then check the output voltage of your "big" power supply before replacing the BMS and re-installing the battery.

If you want to retry the Daly, be sure to Install BMS in the correct order of things: #1, sensor/balancing wires to the battery cells/bus bars (do NOT yet plug the connector into the BMS). #2, connect BTS. #3 connect B-. #4, connect Battery "+". #5, NOW connect the sensor balance wire connector. #6, connect "P-". #7, connect the light board to turn it on. But they're saying it's been killed by high voltage from a mis-connected "charger", and they're probably right.

to clear me on this one, it was all about the inrush/reconnect. I cannot prove it at this point. The last Daly I have has been fine for the time since I last posted in its regards. I have had a few disconnects but when it happened I just used a resistor and no magik blue smoke has appeared.

 

[Just John]

IN THE EVENT OF A BMS LVD, would a lightboard be able to turn the bms on?

If you mean wake it up, yes. If you mean turn on discharge, no.

 

[rickst29]

to clear me on this one, it was all about the inrush/reconnect. I cannot prove it at this point. The last Daly I have has been fine for the time since I last posted in its regards. I have had a few disconnects but when it happened I just used a resistor and no magik blue smoke has appeared.

Pure SWAG on my part: Maybe the capacitor charging "inrush" on the inverter approached the so-called "sparkle current" of the now-dead Daly, I understand "sparkle current" to be a fatal value (though I might be wrong about that). If Daly support can't tell the difference between a fatal "high-voltage" spike versus a fatal "high current" spike, they simply guessed wrong in trying to tell you "why" it was ruined.

 

[John Frum]

"sparkle current"

Always makes me chuckle.
Its like angry pixies with glitter.

 

[Zwy]

Pure SWAG on my part: Maybe the capacitor charging "inrush" on the inverter approached the so-called "sparkle current" of the now-dead Daly, I understand "sparkle current" to be a fatal value (though I might be wrong about that). If Daly support can't tell the difference between a fatal "high-voltage" spike versus a fatal "high current" spike, they simply guessed wrong in trying to tell you "why" it was ruined.

Many think they can connect an inverter without any precharge circuit but considering the cost to install one I don't see any reason not to have it. I put mine right by the main power switch.

 

[Berseker]

SO JUST A HEADS UP..IF YOU HAVE THE NEW DALY BLUETOOTH DONGLE. YOU CAN RESET THE BMS OR TURN IT ON BY PRESSING THE SMALL dot on the dongle..at the end of the bluetooth.

Many think they can connect an inverter without any precharge circuit but considering the cost to install one I don't see any reason not to have it. I put mine right by the main power switch.

cool..how did you wire it up?..a capacitor behind the push button?...or you bought it already preassembled?

 

[Zwy]

SO JUST A HEADS UP..IF YOU HAVE THE NEW DALY BLUETOOTH DONGLE. YOU CAN RESET THE BMS OR TURN IT ON BY PRESSING THE SMALL dot on the dongle..at the end of the bluetooth.


cool..how did you wire it up?..a capacitor behind the push button?...or you bought it already preassembled?

My Push Button Pre-Charger Install for the SW 4024 Inverter

Up until Last week I had never heard of pre-charging a larger inverter before connecting the battery cables. I just lived with the spark. But I was watching a "Will" video about a DIY LFP build and saw that he used a resistor before connecting the Positive Terminal. This peaked my...

diysolarforum.com

Same resistor and same button. Be sure to fuse the circuit.

 

[Just John]

SO JUST A HEADS UP..IF YOU HAVE THE NEW DALY BLUETOOTH DONGLE. YOU CAN RESET THE BMS OR TURN IT ON BY PRESSING THE SMALL dot on the dongle..at the end of the bluetooth.

Just as an FYI, when Daly came out with the dongle with a reset, they were shipping it with BMS that didn't support it. If you have one you should certainly try it.

cool..how did you wire it up?..a capacitor behind the push button?...or you bought it already preassembled?

It is a resistor. Search the resources here, @FilterGuy has a diagram.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

IN THE EVENT OF A BMS LVD, would a lightboard be able to turn the bms on?

Mine did. But apparently this does not work for everyone.

 

[Berseker]

Was able to turn mine on using the small dot on the bluetooth dongle, after the bms shut down cos of LVD

 

[ym58]

I am using an 'old' 4S smart-BMS (no 2-pin reset connector), only UART and Monitor plus attached NTC (solid, no connector)
The only way I could wake it up was to connect it to a 'non'-intelligent 14.6V bench P/S and it now works fine.
However, as I wanted to reset the sleep timer to 65535 to make sure it never go to sleep again, I realized that the user interface does not allow me to make any change to the sleep setting.
I've been able to change the battery capacity to 111Ah as shown below but I found no way to change 9600sec to 65535sec ... (nor could I change the SOC from 100% to whatever my batt SOC currently is !)
Any clue ?

 

[york]

Lots of information here.

 

[Just John]

Lots of information here. Just also setting up mine and both BMS on both blue carbon 48v 200ah and 100ah are crab and you could not see anything that happens to the battery one was daly and none of them were a smart BMS. Daly was fried after 3 weeks and the other one shut off to early. What I see in the forum many were not reading correct when they ordered a BMS for what setting they will use it (daly states its either or Charge activation or lightboard activation) and go from one problem to the next. Good help I think is the time/sleep setting. but as the last post shows about inrush current it seems not clear that you can set almost all MPPT and hybrid controller as in max charging current and also max voltage for the batttery. The chemistry Lifepo4 or Lithium-ion or else are not new but it seems MPPT's are not understood. I ripped out both BMS and driving both batteries without a BMS at least for the next days. I am in the Philippines so I am well aware of the ignorance that asians can have. But I see also completly different descriptions from those that I read here in this forum on websites for example on Lazada. Anyway I have set my MPPT to max 54volt on 48 volt batteries and restricted current to 50a for the big battery and if the small battery gets warm I restrict to 40a. Inrush current on a MPPT if set correct is only some volt maybe +/- 1 or 2, so this is not destroying a BMS (its clearly the charge current). If your not familiar with MPPT please read on your system and change voltage down to 53v for a 48v or less depending if you run on 12 or 24v also restrict your current. Charge your battery without BMS works the same. I watched lots of videos checking for 15mv etc on disbalance. Well we had normal batteries in series and nobody checked this in the last 50 years. Anyway I am ordering some new BMS's but will not waste my time on left right hit me here and there just for 1-20mv on disbalance. When I checked my batteries in charged state with a multimeter they were all fine at 3.4xx volt and directly after I use them for the night and next day same. Anway you can fire all systems back up without a BMS - no truck has a BMS. The BMS is for playing with lots of things and many apllication need it ...but later when I suck 10-20a out of it,,, the battery does not care and same for charging. So charge activation and connection I see different explained in Lazada - read the descriptions and you will see the same.

Running LFP without a BMS is like driving a car without brakes. Good luck.

 

[RV10flyer]

All 4 of my Daly's so far have been junk. The only one I will buy from now on are JK 200A with 2.0A bal current. At least as long as their BMS's keep going good. Seplos requires a laptop to get mine going or set parameters, so they are a no go from now on.