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New 10kw NHX AIO From Watts247

Kornbread said:
When considering a luxpower 12k, it was stated that the eg4 18kpv updates would work on the luxpower12k. YMMV

IIRC, Watts has been working on refining the software on these units for a ~year. It would leave me a bit miffed if someone with no skin in the game came along, used what I had built for their own profit, and stole sales.
Click to expand...

I would buy it from him if I could buy it off Amazon. I don't believe he lists it on Amazon.

I've brought it up with many of the vendors here before, and they don't like Amazon's abusive treatment and extra expense incurred for putting stuff on there.

I don't like the return, shipping and warranty procedures in place at many of the vendors favored here.. so I don't buy from them unless it is absolutely necessary.

I actually like dealing with Amazon's faceless, dead in the eyes, no soul having sales system as a buyer. You know where you stand. Everybody is treated equally, like garbage possibly, but equally. I'll never have to, or get to, talk to anybody on the phone with Amazon. That's a huge plus to me, I deal with enough people on the phone everyday as it is.:ROFLMAO:
 
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The problem with re-badged hardware is that the original device is certified but the badged one is not seen as certified.
So if I show a re-badged version of something to my power company for approval, they immediately say no because it's not on their list.

This could mean lots of potential lost sales which makes me wonder why the industry is doing that, it seems very stupid.

I'm putting this post together to try and help myself and others trying to swim through this mess of what's what.
 
diWhy said:
The problem with re-badged hardware is that the original device is certified but the badged one is not seen as certified.
So if I show a re-badged version of something to my power company for approval, they immediately say no because it's not on their list.

This could mean lots of potential lost sales which makes me wonder why the industry is doing that, it seems very stupid.

I'm putting this post together to try and help myself and others trying to swim through this mess of what's what.
Click to expand...
Not true, you need to read thru this thread. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/e...-in-cali-as-of-aug-28-2023.72365/post-1015818 As I stated, looking at a list is outdated, you need to use the interactive system shown in the thread I linked.
 
diWhy said:
The problem with re-badged hardware is that the original device is certified but the badged one is not seen as certified.
So if I show a re-badged version of something to my power company for approval, they immediately say no because it's not on their list.

This could mean lots of potential lost sales which makes me wonder why the industry is doing that, it seems very stupid.

I'm putting this post together to try and help myself and others trying to swim through this mess of what's what.
Click to expand...
The manufacturer's model number is on the side of the inverter and in the box are the ul certs.
 
Kornbread said:
For LCD updates, Ian recommends a 4-8g, class4 sd card and usb adapter. Never found a 4-8g sd card. Settled on a 16g. LCD update was successful with the 16g. It is noted that larger sd cards and any card not class4, may not read correctly.

Firmware updates to the inverter take the 'hybrid' software downloaded from Watts247, usb male-a to male micro, and a computer. Not absolutely sure about the small end of the usb cable ... I 'think' it's a micro.

After the update, both the 'home loads' and 'inverter' page report the same, or nearly the same power output, which is nice because those reported numbers are now within my margin of error when using a clamp meter and measuring the actual inverter output at the sub-panel feed.

Oddly enough, battery+load╪pv in SolarAssistant's dashboard. There is a missing ~500w.

Also appears there is a new American Standard Classification settings under the grid tab.

Old firmware.
View attachment 222243
New firmware
View attachment 222244

New options under grid tab.
View attachment 222245
Click to expand...
Where did you find the file exactly?
 
I am in the club.

Random observations;

It's quiet but when it's working it gets pretty loud. I think it's all those tiny fans.

I live close enough to watt247 that I just drove down there and bought it in person. I asked him about warranty support. He said it goes through him. Very nice assuming he stays in business.

PV power is lower than my last inverter which was an ip6048. Perhaps it was lying to me.

The CTs... really that's all I need to do for zero export? Find the internal CT, cut it out and run a wire to the mainboard?

So far so good but here's my big problem so far; I don't have enough of the settings exposed to automate this properly with SA.

SA can change the basic modes, battery, self consumption etc. It cannot change the advanced modes.

In basic mode the max charge current setting covers both the solar charging and the AC charging. Advanced mode has different switches for both but SA can't do advanced mode.

I'm hoping that SA will expose more functionality soon. As it is I have to manually make a few changes over the course of the day.
 
Hey - just wanted to post back to the forum some hopefully helpful information... I have not seen anyone talk about or report experience with AC coupling a grid tie inverter to the output of the NHX. I had spoken with Ian a while back, and he said that it will indeed handle that. Since the NHX doesn't do frequency shifting like Solark or Victron, it doesn't handle making the grid tie inverters that are connected to it throttle back in an off-grid setup.

I hooked up a Growatt 3000 TL-X grid tie inverter with 6 - 350watt Rec Solar panels to the 2nd output of the NHX. I ran the following tests:
- Grid connected, more power coming in from GT than being consumed - charged the batteries and offset the loads
- Grid disconnected, no loads on the output of the NHX. It just charged the batteries.

There are two cautions using the system this way:
- If Grid is not connected and battery is full, or GT power exceeds your allowed charge current, bus voltage will go up and likely cause a vbus fault
- If Grid is connected, and you don't want to feed power back into the grid (self-consumption), you will need to have a means of shutting off the GT inverters or throttling them back. You could likely use the dry contact relay on the NHX to control this. Or you could simply dedicate the 2nd output port of the NHX, and program it to shut off when the battery SOC gets to 90% or something like that.

The Growatt GT I have works with an energy meter and will throttle back to near zero export, if set up to do so. I plan on utilizing this to feed power from my garage, where I have solar panels set up, by no convenient way to run PV wire to the house where my batteries are with the NHX.

One other thing I have done, in my setup which is kind of unrelated is - I used 3 wires to hook up two parallel strings of panels. Its 10 ga, and I am running only about 9 amps per string, so having a common negative wire is not a problem for the current rating of the wire. I did some research before doing this, and found it is not unheard of. I only did it to get around a temporary issue with my wiring setup. Have been running this way two days, without issue. Wire is still running 10 amps below its rated ampacity, so all's good.
 
CuriousJohn said:
Hey - just wanted to post back to the forum some hopefully helpful information... I have not seen anyone talk about or report experience with AC coupling a grid tie inverter to the output of the NHX. I had spoken with Ian a while back, and he said that it will indeed handle that. Since the NHX doesn't do frequency shifting like Solark or Victron, it doesn't handle making the grid tie inverters that are connected to it throttle back in an off-grid setup.

I hooked up a Growatt 3000 TL-X grid tie inverter with 6 - 350watt Rec Solar panels to the 2nd output of the NHX. I ran the following tests:
- Grid connected, more power coming in from GT than being consumed - charged the batteries and offset the loads
- Grid disconnected, no loads on the output of the NHX. It just charged the batteries.

There are two cautions using the system this way:
- If Grid is not connected and battery is full, or GT power exceeds your allowed charge current, bus voltage will go up and likely cause a vbus fault
- If Grid is connected, and you don't want to feed power back into the grid (self-consumption), you will need to have a means of shutting off the GT inverters or throttling them back. You could likely use the dry contact relay on the NHX to control this. Or you could simply dedicate the 2nd output port of the NHX, and program it to shut off when the battery SOC gets to 90% or something like that.

The Growatt GT I have works with an energy meter and will throttle back to near zero export, if set up to do so. I plan on utilizing this to feed power from my garage, where I have solar panels set up, by no convenient way to run PV wire to the house where my batteries are with the NHX.

One other thing I have done, in my setup which is kind of unrelated is - I used 3 wires to hook up two parallel strings of panels. Its 10 ga, and I am running only about 9 amps per string, so having a common negative wire is not a problem for the current rating of the wire. I did some research before doing this, and found it is not unheard of. I only did it to get around a temporary issue with my wiring setup. Have been running this way two days, without issue. Wire is still running 10 amps below its rated ampacity, so all's good.
Click to expand...
Oh yeah - the only other thing I didn't like about the GT setup, is that the power fed in via GT does not show up anywhere as power produced. It shows up as a reduced load on the inverter and battery charging. If you wanted to track that production, you'd need to have an independent meter to aggregate that power into the total.
 
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