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New Sol-Ark 15K and SOK rack of batteries.

Z

zack6736

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Had two MPPT 6548 solar inverters which I am replacing with a Sol-Ark 15K, while skimming through the manual it states if you are hooking up more than 2-3 batteries, they must be run through a busbar before the inverter. The SOK rack has 5 SOK batteries (no busbar) and just have them hooked up in parallel with the positive lead coming off the top battery and negative lead off the bottom battery. For those with more knowledge with these two systems, can you explain why or even IF it really is necessary with the SOK batteries.
Thank you, z
 
zack6736 said:
Had two MPPT 6548 solar inverters which I am replacing with a Sol-Ark 15K, while skimming through the manual it states if you are hooking up more than 2-3 batteries, they must be run through a busbar before the inverter. The SOK rack has 5 SOK batteries (no busbar) and just have them hooked up in parallel with the positive lead coming off the top battery and negative lead off the bottom battery. For those with more knowledge with these two systems, can you explain why or even IF it really is necessary with the SOK batteries.
Thank you, z
Click to expand...
Probably to take advantage of the two terminals, each on a separate 200A breaker. More than 2 batteries is maybe for equal balancing/loading? If you’re only running one wire from your battery bank, you can either jumper it to the other stud, use a busbar/distribution block, or use a Polaris type connection.

The 15K reaches a max of 275A of battery charge/discharge if using both sets of battery terminals. If using one set of terminals, the max battery charge/discharge is 160A.

Edit, from manual:

Optional Battery Installation Method: Multi-Terminal Installation
The battery terminals parallel batteries to ensure a common connection. If 275A charge/discharge rate is needed, connect batteries to both terminals; If using 3 or more batteries, use a busbar for + and - battery connections. Only connect batteries of the same brand, model, and chemistry to both terminals.
Click to expand...
 
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Thank you Danke. What is a Polaris type connection for the battery connection you mentioned? Don't recall reading about one before.
 
I wouldn’t use a polaris connector. A busbar is simple. Just make sure to find something with the correct amperage. Technically the current connected bus bars would be just enough to cover it with 300 amps. But if you wanted some head room Amazon has some 400 amp bars.
 
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zack6736 said:
Had two MPPT 6548 solar inverters which I am replacing with a Sol-Ark 15K, while skimming through the manual it states if you are hooking up more than 2-3 batteries, they must be run through a busbar before the inverter. The SOK rack has 5 SOK batteries (no busbar) and just have them hooked up in parallel with the positive lead coming off the top battery and negative lead off the bottom battery. For those with more knowledge with these two systems, can you explain why or even IF it really is necessary with the SOK batteries.
Thank you, z
Click to expand...
I just installed the same hardware. The SOK rack comes with 4/0 cable from the top and bottom batteries as you stated. I ran the 4/0 to a (4) - 3/8" stud bus bar, similar to the one Current Connected sells. They are perfect for DC voltages. Then from the each bus (+/-), I ran a pair of 2/0 cables to the SolArk. It is recommended to have the toroids (round rings) as close to the inverter as possible. It was tight, but I was able to get both 2/0 pairs through, inside the SolArk. It is also recommended to do the positive and negative in the same conduit and not put both positives or negatives together. The 15K has 5/16" lugs and so does the SOK. I went with a 3/8" lug on the bus bar because the 4/0 was already pre-terminated that way. You can specify if placing a new order. Just be aware when ordering what size you need. For folks with the 12K, I think it uses 3/8". Good luck with your project! Snag_6834816c.pngSnag_68d43083.png
 
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TIHI said:
I just installed the same hardware. The SOK rack comes with 4/0 cable from the top and bottom batteries as you stated. I ran the 4/0 to a (4) - 3/8" stud bus bar, similar to the one Current Connected sells. They are perfect for DC voltages. Then from the each bus (+/-), I ran a pair of 2/0 cables to the SolArk. It is recommended to have the toroids (round rings) as close to the inverter as possible. It was tight, but I was able to get both 2/0 pairs through, inside the SolArk. It is also recommended to do the positive and negative in the same conduit and not put both positives or negatives together. The 15K has 5/16" lugs and so does the SOK. I went with a 3/8" lug on the bus bar because the 4/0 was already pre-terminated that way. You can specify if placing a new order. Just be aware when ordering what size you need. For folks with the 12K, I think it uses 3/8". Good luck with your project! View attachment 138486View attachment 138524
Click to expand...
Man the bottom of your 15k looks so much cleaner than mine. I have aluminum AC all over the place and they cannot be budged! Since you have the same SOK batteries - can I ask you if you have your PV throttled when your batteries reach full capacity? I'm using the BMS Lithium mode and i'm grid connected. My behavior is very strange for 30m and then it starts full grid sale at up to 15kw after that. I have 17KW of PV which does hit 16.5 on a good day.
Screenshot_20230402-133124.png
 
version135b said:
Man the bottom of your 15k looks so much cleaner than mine. I have aluminum AC all over the place and they cannot be budged! Since you have the same SOK batteries - can I ask you if you have your PV throttled when your batteries reach full capacity? I'm using the BMS Lithium mode and i'm grid connected. My behavior is very strange for 30m and then it starts full grid sale at up to 15kw after that. I have 17KW of PV which does hit 16.5 on a good day.
Screenshot_20230402-133124.png
Click to expand...
Thanks for the kind words. BTW your picture did not upload it seems. I gave direction to my solar installer. He had not done a 12" trough before and was hesitant. His electrician that actually did the work loved the idea since you could do the conduit straight into the bottom of the SolArk without having to bend or flex. He said, they'll be doing this for future jobs without hesitation. Saw so many videos of Engineer 775's work and wanted it to look nice. My guys used welding 2/0 cable, which is pretty flexible, for the meter to disconnect, disconnect to SolArk, SolArk to service panel, and DC distribution block to SolArk battery terminals...basically everything except the included 7' 4/0 from Current Connected.

Yes, I have been seeing throttling of the PV during, and right after, the batteries charge. I went to open loop for the time being while trying to figure out with SolArk and Current Connected. It is most likely is SolArk software as even in open loop, it continues to occur. I have also been getting F55 errors (DC volt high) from the SA, usually right before the charging begins. When the error happens, the PV, grid and load all go to zero for a minute, then everything comes back, the batteries charge and PV throttles. I'm using Limited Power to Load (switched from LPtoHome) and Batteries 1st for System Work Mode. Let us know how yours goes and if you figure anything out. I really think SA is going to have to make the fix. I'd also be interested to hear if others are seeing similar behavior with other battery vendors to prove it is SA's problem to solve.
 
Engineer775 did a video about a week ago that has about 40 batteries (213kw) connected in parallel to a pair of 15ks. Treat them like one huge battery thats 48v100ah. Guy that paid him dropped a crap load on just the batteries.
 
following Ill be doing something similar to your setup thanks for asking this question!
 
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