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Off topic, EV vehicle opinions…

A used Nissan Leaf is probably the cheapest EV you can get right now.

I bought a used 2012 Leaf w/ 11 bars remaining (out of 12) several years ago. The original owner said that the battery pack was replaced under warranty a couple of years prior to that. I've owned the 2012 Leaf for about 4 years and it now has 9 out of 12 bars remaining. They say that each bar is about 8% of capacity. I live in Las Vegas. The heat has not affected it much.

I've had nearly zero problems with the Leaf in all this time. Only things I've ever done was top off the coolant when I first got the car because it was a little bit low. And about 2 years ago a water pump went out, but I didn't fix it for over a year because that pump was used for driving in cold climate. There's a second pump that is used in warm climates. The first pump has something to do with heating up the antifreeze. I never fixed it until I was thinking about selling it/trading it in. So I bought the part off eBay and fixed it myself. It was a rather expensive part at $250 for a water pump. From what I've read in a Leaf forum, this pump failure is quite common and parts are kind of hard to come by. A Nissan dealer would charge $800+.

The big issue with range on the Leaf is that the estimate on the dash is wildly inaccurate. When I go to Costco on a full charge leaving home, the range guess-meter says around 65 miles. When I get to Costco, it says about 20 miles. The Costco I go to is 15 miles away. Here's the kicker. On the way home, that 20 miles guess-meter increases as I get closer to home. When I'm about 5 miles from home, the range guess-meter shows 25. When I do get home, it would be about 22 miles.

How you drive also makes a big difference. Being in Las Vegas, my AC is always on except for a couple of months during the winter. Avoiding freeways or going over 60 mph really helps in getting more range. For whatever reason the Leaf gets really bad mileage when you go fast. The miles per kw goes down to as low as 2 miles/kw. Driving slower or taking the streets, I average around 4.2 to 4.5 miles/kw.

If I were buying a used Leaf now, knowing what I know now from owning a Leaf for 4 years, I would not buy a Leaf with less than 9 bars on the capacity gauge. My Leaf currently has 9 bars remaining and I estimate that I can still drive it at least another 5 or 6 years before the range becomes so low that I would have to get another vehicle and use the Leaf as a golf car just to go to places nearby like the supermarket, drug store, etc.

In case you don't already know, the most important thing is the battery capacity gauge. I put a big red arrow pointing to it in the attached picture. Full capacity is 12 bars. I read somewhere that it is possible to fake that info on the dash by changing some data via the OBD port. But I don't know much about it.
Is the arrow pointing to the bars available?
I count 11, not 9...
 
I'm really hoping we get actual 'crate ready' parts to convert older vehicles to EVs without having to spend $50K. I read here and there that Ford was supposed to be interested in building this kind market for older F-150s (as an example) but when I google all I get is fluff.
 
I'm really hoping we get actual 'crate ready' parts to convert older vehicles to EVs without having to spend $50K. I read here and there that Ford was supposed to be interested in building this kind market but when I google all I get is fluff.
Unless you drive a VW beetle, a drop in ev conversion seems difficult to get.
I also read about the Ford ev kits, but don't find anything on them.
 
Unless you drive a VW beetle, a drop in ev conversion seems difficult to get.
I also read about the Ford ev kits, but don't find anything on them.
And the trouble with a vintage VW beetle van (for example) - https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars-for-sale/volkswagen-vans-for-sale - range from $22K to $64K - just insane for a low budget DIY conversion.
1687194425534.png

Plus the kits themselves are nothing to sneeze at such as - https://www.evwest.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=40&osCsid=1fdbcabcc54e02e1ba2d9ed32d9c20ea
1687194634013.png
 
As an ASE master tech with an L3 hybrid/ev cert, my opinion is its basically a pipe dream to get a conversion kit that doesnt cost 15k+ and at least a few thousand dollars in labor.

Air cooled VWs are of course the ideal cheap/easy swap candidates but also barely a car by modern standards. 3-wheeled ‘not a car’ motorcycles that arent a car because they dont have the 4th wheel, are the next easiest/cheapest but again they’re hardly an all-use kind of vehicle.

I think a used Leaf is a good starting point for a DIY project base. A semi-usable EV to build onto. For example, you can always just use totally unrelated batteries in the cargo area to trickle into the main pack as a range extender. But all of the possibilities, even the ones i think are cheaper than most people would expect, are still very expensive in the context of a $3500 car.

So, given the budget constraints i would recommend a used Prius. I drove my 07 to 277k, sold it to a relative, and it just crossed 400k. Id drive it cross-country right now if i had a good reason to.

For the record you can also
DIY an auxiliary pack into an old hybrid like that, drive it as a very hobbled (but cheap) EV, and get huge mpg gains even when driving on gas. So still a very good basis for projects. Plus you can use a prius as a 2-3kw generator with the right hardware, and building your equipment into a vehicle makes it real easy to take with you if your dwelling situation changes or you go on a long trip.
 
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I own a 22 Leaf Plus and we love it. I've put 20k miles on it in 18 months and charge at home with solar (thanks Will) 90% of the time. Practical and super easy for anyone to drive. Personally, I would spend a little bit more and get a 40kw Leaf (2016-2017) or a used Bolt that has had it's battery replaced. Early Leaf's are great cars but are going to need battery replacements at some point and the 2011-2012 models aren't as easy to upgrade to the 40kw battery as later models.
 
I'm really hoping we get actual 'crate ready' parts to convert older vehicles to EVs without having to spend $50K. I read here and there that Ford was supposed to be interested in building this kind market for older F-150s (as an example) but when I google all I get is fluff.
$130K for unit and installation.
 
EV West is supposedly making an electric crate motor with motor mounts to bolt into an LS based frame. Kinda cool, but you need to figure out the other 80% of the parts/build lol

Electric-crate-motor-scaled.jpg
 
I own a 22 Leaf Plus and we love it. I've put 20k miles on it in 18 months and charge at home with solar (thanks Will) 90% of the time. Practical and super easy for anyone to drive.
We also have a 22 Plus that we got for our college age daughter (60 kWh battery for those tuning in). 21k miles since Jan 2022. It's a fine car for around town or a 75 mile radius drive. Pretty awesome not needing to budget for my daughter's gas. No battery issues with the heat and lack of active cooling. The 20k dealer service battery report still showed no reportable degradation (we usually keep it 20-82% and never fast charge). Plenty of power so it's not annoying to drive (214 Hp vs 147 for the standard Leaf).

About the only negative is as much as EV's aren't road trippers the Leaf is a whole nother level of craptacular. Chademo slow...errr...fast charger connection, roughly 185 miles of range at highway speeds, and lack of active cooling means a horrible road trip experience.

We were totally going to buy another one for our younger son to get him through his college years but leather, Bose, and the federal tax credit aren't available anymore so that's changed the calculus. Don't really want a Tesla, a resistive heater, a used EV that has potentially been beat on, or something that costs $40k+.
 
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About the only negative is as much as EV's aren't road trippers the Leaf is a whole nother level of craptacular. Chademo slow...errr...fast charger connection, roughly 185 miles of range at highway speeds, and lack of active cooling means a horrible road trip experience.

We were totally going to buy another one for our younger son to get him through his college years but leather, Bose, and the federal tax credit aren't available anymore so that's changed the calculus. Don't really want a Tesla, a resistive heater either, or something that costs $40k+.
After buying my Model 3 LR, I will not road trip in any other vehicle I own. We did a 1400 mile round trip for Christmas/New Years and didn't have a single hiccup with anything. Charging all planned out we stopped a total of 6 times, each time was perfect for the kids to get out and pee or get food. Never felt like we were "waiting" for it to charge. Then again we always hit 250kW chargers as well. We also spent $85 for charging on the entire trip. We left our house with 85%, charged 3 times and showed up to my parents house for Christmas, charged for free there, then drove home and stopped 3 more times.

I personally, am not going back.
 
Off-Topic
So, move it to Chit Chat Zone (Non-Solar Discussion) ; -)

Wife has a Honda Clarity, most amazing PHEV ever; no issues or shoddiness discovered in 4 years. Just put replacement tires on it, heavy vehicle so they were $$$. Unbelievably they discontinued it (sales were weak). You might be able to pick one up on the cheap used.

Ok, I have been looking for a cheap EV for my wife…
According to this, the Japanese car companies (including Nissan) may or may not be in trouble. They have a lot of debt and sales haven't been great. Japan doesn't have enough $ to bail them out, but they are giving Toyota a ton of $ to "save" the industry (which is going to mess up their inflation). EVs have been taking off, but Japan's car manufacturers are in poor shape. It's no wonder Toyota struck a deal with Tesla for tech.

She doesn’t drive much… maybe 20 miles a week…
The all-American Aptera sounds ideal. Charges 40 miles a day on its built-in solar panels and only ~$27k (400-mile range). Has a really big trunk, is sporty, an eye-turner, up to 1000 miles range, NACS, but only seats 2. Here's the list of 2023's eligible for the tax credit.

The 2023 Volkswagen ID. 4 has a base MSRP of $38,995.

If you're older (like the kids are nagging you to give your licenses) something setup for self-driving (e.g., just needs a s/w update) is something to consider.
 
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Great thread. Considering an EV, or more likely a PHEV, to use some of my excess solar power. Will be following this closely.

Edit: If I had to pull the trigger today, a used Chevy Volt would be my choice. 38 miles EV only range would offset most of my ~50 mile/day commute, plus gas when needed. Pop up frequently with under 100k miles, for under $15k. One locally right now for $11.9k with 104k miles on it.
 
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Just sold my 2014 spark to upgrade to 2023 bolt. 45K solar powered miles and not one issue on the Spark 83 mile range when new was delivering 75 +/- miles when I sold it. might be kinda hard to find in NC since was a compliance car here in CA. effectively paid $11500 for the Spark after tax credits/rebates and sold it for $7000 used Spark is eligably for $4000 if purchased from a dealer where I now see them advertised at 11-12k$
 
I'm really hoping we get actual 'crate ready' parts to convert older vehicles to EVs without having to spend $50K. I read here and there that Ford was supposed to be interested in building this kind market for older F-150s (as an example) but when I google all I get is fluff.
EV West is supposedly making an electric crate motor with motor mounts to bolt into an LS based frame. Kinda cool, but you need to figure out the other 80% of the parts/build lol
Here is my conversion kit ;)
Everything you need: battery, charger, motor, controller, charge port, booster brake, power steering, shifter, accelerator, digital cluster, etc.
All this available at your scrap yard for few thousand$ (1k$ to 15k$).

The drop in kit will never exist at reasonable price. The reason is simple, but you have to change your mind to understand.
Put a V8 kit under the hood is simple to understand, but an EV kit is in fact a large and heavy battery. So no easy way to put this in a old vehicle build to receive a gas engine.


Bolt battery removal.JPG
 
Here is my conversion kit ;)
Everything you need: battery, charger, motor, controller, charge port, booster brake, power steering, shifter, accelerator, digital cluster, etc.
All this available at your scrap yard for few thousand$ (1k$ to 15k$).

The drop in kit will never exist at reasonable price. The reason is simple, but you have to change your mind to understand.
Put a V8 kit under the hood is simple to understand, but an EV kit is in fact a large and heavy battery. So no easy way to put this in a old vehicle build to receive a gas engine.


View attachment 153553
I get you're point and it's a good one; however, I can build my own battery to suit the vehicle and my purposes. So for me (and I suspect many on this forum that are comfortable building their batteries) a drop in motor would work great. Especially something like an F-150 where one could layout a battery in the bed. Heck, one could do an around-town level battery for a trunk or as a layer in the bed of an SUV.
 
Here is my conversion kit ;)
Everything you need: battery, charger, motor, controller, charge port, booster brake, power steering, shifter, accelerator, digital cluster, etc.
All this available at your scrap yard for few thousand$ (1k$ to 15k$).

The drop in kit will never exist at reasonable price. The reason is simple, but you have to change your mind to understand.
Put a V8 kit under the hood is simple to understand, but an EV kit is in fact a large and heavy battery. So no easy way to put this in a old vehicle build to receive a gas engine.


View attachment 153553
That's basically what I tried to do with my work van...
Blew the motor in my 03 sprinter, bought a 2010 smith electric truck with two full batteries... over a year ago, and I haven't touched it yet...
 
I can build my own battery to suit the vehicle and my purposes. So for me (and I suspect many on this forum that are comfortable building their batteries) a drop in motor would work great.
It's exactly where I disagree and try to warn peoples.
I build EV and solar batteries since 2008 and it's my full time job now.
My advice for anyone who are tempted to build a battery to do a conversion: It's 10 times easier to build a frame to receive an OEM battery than build a battery who will fit the frame.
OEM battery are design and tested by hundred of engineers to be reliable for years and thousand of Km.
Build a battery is easy. Build a reliable battery is a huge challenge.
Well, this is true for EV battery, but solar / stationary batteries are way less complex considering that vibrations, cooling, extreme temperature can be skip of the design.
 
It's exactly where I disagree and try to warn peoples.
I build EV and solar batteries since 2008 and it's my full time job now.
My advice for anyone who are tempted to build a battery to do a conversion: It's 10 times easier to build a frame to receive an OEM battery than build a battery who will fit the frame.
OEM battery are design and tested by hundred of engineers to be reliable for years and thousand of Km.
Build a battery is easy. Build a reliable battery is a huge challenge.
Well, this is true for EV battery, but solar / stationary batteries are way less complex considering that vibrations, cooling, extreme temperature can be skip of the design.
Again, I take you're point but we'll just have to agree to disagree. For example, I built a 13.5kwh battery for my camper trailer - and physically (bouncing/temps) - no problems as I built it and BMS'ed it for bouncing/temps as this knowledge is not mysterious any more. An EV motor will have electrical specifics that can be met with today's cell/battery offerings.

But I agree, I'm not talking about a 'production quality / regular vehicle' that I'd loan to my neighbor. I'm talking about DIY, personal, targeted use. Like my solar system :)
 
Again, I take you're point but we'll just have to agree to disagree. For example, I built a 13.5kwh battery for my camper trailer - and physically (bouncing/temps) - no problems as I built it and BMS'ed it for bouncing/temps as this knowledge is not mysterious any more. An EV motor will have electrical specifics that can be met with today's cell/battery offerings.

But I agree, I'm not talking about a 'production quality / regular vehicle' that I'd loan to my neighbor. I'm talking about DIY, personal, targeted use. Like my solar system :)
If you do diy an EV battery, be sure to document your project. I couldn’t fathom building one from scratch for an ev with 2 - 300+ volts… and design cooling/heating system for it, and make it robust and safe… nope, not me…
 
Wait a minute? You people are buying first gen Leafs? I thought they were supposed to pay you to take them away!!!

Kidding aside, 120,000 miles in a bit under 4 years on my Model 3 Performance. I own a lot of cars (8). Musclecar, old Bronco, couple of Porsches, truck, etc. Outside of towing the track car and the track car, I cant' see myself ever thinking about a non-EV again, even if the CEO has lost his mind. But man.....20 miles a week? Just use Uber, and get rid of the car. Seriously.
 

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