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Seplos Mason 48 volt 135 AH DIY kit - Build and operation report

tigerwillow1

Solar Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 20, 2021
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194
(Part 1 of 3)
This is a report on the design, construction, and to a limited extent operation of the Seplos 6.9 kWh LiFePO4 Mason DIY kit. Why limited? There is no exhaustive testing, long-term information, information on data connection with an inverter, and I'm not equipped to make measurements of cell internal resistance or good load testing. Other users have better information on operation of the Seplos BMS that I do. I sense there is not a lot of forum interest in this kit, but there is a lot of interest in the Mason kit for the 280 AH cells, and would think a lot of the design items would carry over to the 280 AH kit.

I would have preferred to make a full DIY battery, but decided against it because of wanting a reasonably nice steel case, and not wanting the hassle of sourcing parts like correct plastic and foam for around the cells. The Mason kit completely addresses these issues. I have fairly good prior experience with electronics and PV systems, and no experience whatsoever with LiFePO4 batteries. Pretty much everything I know about LiFePO4 at this point is from the diysolar forum and working with the Mason kits. Last year, Seplos offered a $1,000 promotional price for these Mason kits (about $1,500 shipped to USA), which was my main reason for going with them. A second reason was being able to assemble it myself. After the promotion period the price without shipping rose to $1,600. Today there's no price posted on the web site. I bought 3 of the Masons.

QUICK SUMMARY

The 6.9 kWh Mason battery is built using sixteen 135 Ah cells and a 100 amp Seplos BMS. The design and construction of the metal case is superb. The self-adhesive insulating sheets and foam dividers look to be very good high-end choices. Printed circuit boards for the BMS connections to the individual cells eliminate the rats nest of wires. There are 4 temp sensors. The battery can be monitored with its panel display or PC app using an RS485 connection and RS485-to-USB adapter. The completed battery weighs about 121 pounds, 96 pounds for the cells, and 25 pounds for the case and BMS. The steel thickness of the case is about 0.05", in the 16 to 18 gauge range. The cells were well packed and arrived with a ~40% SOC, their no load voltages within a few millivolts. I have no reason to suspect that they are not well matched grade A cells. While not a rack mount case, it does fit between the rack uprights to support it with a shelf. I do have some criticisms, explained below.

HIGHLIGHTS

-Very nice case, superb metal work, cell compression provided via foam dividers. Seplos makes nice cases!
-Very nice busbars for BMS power connections. Made of laminated copper layers, plated, rigid where connections are made and flexible in-between.
-BMS connections to individual cells made via PC boards, resulting in very neat wiring.
-Adequate build directions translated well to English. They're not Heathkit style hand-holding directions, but totally sufficient to get the job done.
-No missing parts.

LOWLIGHTS/SHORTCOMINGS (detailed below)

-Awful communication about shipping process and progress.
-No mechanical shutoff.
-Questionable internal fuse.
-Not so good power connectors on the panel (The other Mason kits use a different connector).

SHIPPING PROCESS AND COMMUNICATION

For shipping to USA, Seplos turns the package over to a forwarder for the ocean shipping, then (in my case) over to Fedex freight for delivery inside the states. None of this is communicated up front, and the process becomes (1) Send your money, (2) Hope, and (3) About 3 to 4 months later you will get a call from Fedex to arrange delivery (which I and other buyers did). Instead of simply explaining this, Seplos provided misleading info for my shipping enquires that left me thinking for about a month I'd never see the Masons. IMO if they want to succeed in the USA market they need to find a way for someone who speaks good English to provide correct shipping process and status info, or establish a USA based distributor.

NO MECHANICAL SHUTOFF

This is definitely opinion. After all, lead acid batteries don't have a shutoff. I want to be sure that the battery is really off when making connections. The BMS can be commanded to shut off the power terminals. My distrust of this arrangement was confirmed a few times when it turned itself on while I was making a connection or doing something with the RS485 interface (I didn't spend time to drill down on this). My response was to add a 125 amp circuit breaker to use as a shutoff. It's in series with a 100 amp fuse, so in theory anyway, the breaker should never trip.

QUESTIONABLE INTERNAL FUSE

The standard fuse is a 150 amp MIDI fuse, its spec sheet listing the "breaking capacity" at 1,000 amps. I do not have fuse expertise. Based on info from the forum I concluded this is not adequate and replaced it with a 100 amp class-T fuse. 100 amps should be sufficient for my PV system, maybe not for a different system. I want the fuse to blow before the 125 amp breaker, which has a lower AIC rating. While a 100 amp fuse is not adequate for the 100 amp max output of the battery, it is adequate for my weaker link of inverter and charger, which should never push or pull more than 80 amps. If I do get nuisance blowing of the fuse, the standoffs I used to mount it can be adjusted to accommodate the physically larger class-T fuses over 100 amps.

NOT SO GOOD POWER CONNECTORS

The power connectors use nice heavy fine pitch 10mm studs. That's the good part. There are 2 bad parts: (1) The studs are too short for the lug thickness on my 2/0 cables. Only 2 or 3 threads are engaged by the tightening nut. (2) The nuts are meant to be hand-tightened, which is not good enough for me. When using pliers, I spun the plastic cover on the metal nut. I solved this by flipping the stud and using a hex nut for the battery cable connection. When flipped, the stud length is more than sufficient for the battery cable, and just long enough for the BMS busbar connection inside the case.

ASSEMBLY NOTES

You absolutely need a 1/4 inch torque wrench and 10 mm socket for the cell connections. Some of the internal components are shipped fastened inside the case. The screws used to attach these parts for shipping are not used in the final assembly, which confused me in some cases about the proper fasteners to use. The shrink tubing on the shank of the ring terminals for BMS connections to the cells was too long, capturing the tubing under the securing nut. The 9 screws that secure the end plate of the battery case are too short for assembly. Once the between-cell foam is compressed they're fine. It's easiest to have nine longer M5 screws to use at least temporarily until the foam sheets are compressed. I tightened the screws gradually over a few days to compress the foam. The Seplos videos tighten them completely in one shot. Before attaching the battery case end plate, that's the chance to make sure the cells are all lined up in a straight line. Once the end plate is tightened, it's too late to nudge them. The instructions make no mention of cleaning the battery terminals or aluminum busbars before attaching the busbars, or of using any kind of anti oxidation and/or conductive paste. I enhanced this part of the build, based on forum posts. I also top balanced the cells before installing them in the case. While the instructions don't call for this, they do specify a complete charge and discharge cycle before placing the battery into service.

(Continued in next post)

This first batch of photos shows the packaging and parts. The first is as the shipment arrived, the second after removing the shrink wrap. The LiFePO4 cells are shipped in their own boxes, 8 to a box. The Mason case is in its own box, with all of the parts shipped inside the case. The only shipping damage was to the box in the 3rd image. There was a slight crease on the side of the cell behind the damage, which I chose to ignore.
Shipping_01.jpg Shipping_04.jpg Shipping_05.jpg Packaging_1.jpg Parts_1.jpg

Parts_4.jpg Parts_10.jpg Parts_7.jpg
 
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(Part 2 of 3)

OPERATION OBSERVATIONS

I'm running the Masons with an older Outback system optimized for lead acid batteries. The data communication with the battery is not usable except for monitoring on a computer. The 3-stage charging algorithm that is nice for lead acid batteries doesn't work so well with LiFePO4, and I've dumbed it down to be effectively one stage. The Outback battery voltage sensing accuracy and precision does not read the charge level of the battery close enough to be very useful. Depending on how the sunlight is on any particular morning, the battery will be charged somewhere between 65% and 95% (as reported by the BMS) before the Outback system sells the rest of the sunlight to the grid. Once the system is tied to the grid, the inverter makes very slow and gradual adjustments in response to sunlight changes (e.g. a cloud rolls in), and to changing AC loads. The result is the battery alternates between usually small charge and discharge cycles most of the day. Far short of the ideal of charging the battery if needed when the sun comes up, then switch to selling to the grid with hands off of the battery.

The Windows app is responsive and runs well. It shows the current, overall voltage, individual cell voltages, temperatures, and a big collection of warning messages that the BMS can generate. When I run the inverter's subpanel off of the battery, its performance is strong down to where the BMS posts its low SOC warning. The maximum load I tested with is about 50 amps. I have not attempted parallel operation yet. The BMS looks to be keeping the individual cell voltages within a few millivolts.

CONCLUSIONS

If the 4 shortcomings I mentioned weren't in play, I'd rate the Mason as near perfect. I was fortunately able to correct the 3 design items, and eventually came out ok after suffering with with the shipping process. Some might disagree with me on the design items, making the Mason an even better match for them. As far as skill level goes, I'd recommend this DIY kit only to someone who would know enough to build a battery from scratch. Why? An example is, when making the connections in the battery box, the instructions don't detail individual steps. Instead, it's: Here's the diagram, put it together. The diagram is totally complete and correct for somebody with an electrical background. Somebody without the electrical knowledge could easily do things wrong without realizing it, or what the consequences could be.

(Continued in next post)

The photos below show various stages of the assembly process. Sorry about all the junk in the rack photo.

BMS_3.jpg BMS_5.jpg CaseBeforeCells_1.jpg CaseWithCells.jpg

CaseAssembled.jpg Rack_1.jpg AppScreen.jpg
 
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(Part 3 of 3)

This is the power terminal stud I'm unhappy with, too short on one end, too long on the other.
PowerTerminalStud.jpg

The remaining photos show the added class-T fuse, DIN breaker, and flipped power terminal stud. The edge of the fuse is not too close to touching the side of the case. It looks that way because of the camera angle.

Fuse+Breaker_2.jpg Fuse+Breaker_8.jpg ModifiedBMS_3.jpg

PanelWithBreaker_1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Great report, thanks for that.

Re the circuit breaker, one of the things I insisted on with the batteries I just received was they be fitted with a breaker. I think it's a good idea.
 
(Part 1 of 3)
This is a report on the design, construction, and to a limited extent operation of the Seplos 6.9 kWh LiFePO4 Mason DIY kit. Why limited? There is no exhaustive testing, long-term information, information on data connection with an inverter, and I'm not equipped to make measurements of cell internal resistance or good load testing. Other users have better information on operation of the Seplos BMS that I do. I sense there is not a lot of forum interest in this kit, but there is a lot of interest in the Mason kit for the 280 AH cells, and would think a lot of the design items would carry over to the 280 AH kit.

I would have preferred to make a full DIY battery, but decided against it because of wanting a reasonably nice steel case, and not wanting the hassle of sourcing parts like correct plastic and foam for around the cells. The Mason kit completely addresses these issues. I have fairly good prior experience with electronics and PV systems, and no experience whatsoever with LiFePO4 batteries. Pretty much everything I know about LiFePO4 at this point is from the diysolar forum and working with the Mason kits. Last year, Seplos offered a $1,000 promotional price for these Mason kits (about $1,500 shipped to USA), which was my main reason for going with them. A second reason was being able to assemble it myself. After the promotion period the price without shipping rose to $1,600. Today there's no price posted on the web site. I bought 3 of the Masons.

QUICK SUMMARY

The 6.9 kWh Mason battery is built using sixteen 135 Ah cells and a 100 amp Seplos BMS. The design and construction of the metal case is superb. The self-adhesive insulating sheets and foam dividers look to be very good high-end choices. Printed circuit boards for the BMS connections to the individual cells eliminate the rats nest of wires. There are 4 temp sensors. The battery can be monitored with its panel display or PC app using an RS485 connection and RS485-to-USB adapter. The completed battery weighs about 121 pounds, 96 pounds for the cells, and 25 pounds for the case and BMS. The steel thickness of the case is about 0.05", in the 16 to 18 gauge range. The cells were well packed and arrived with a ~40% SOC, their no load voltages within a few millivolts. I have no reason to suspect that they are not well matched grade A cells. While not a rack mount case, it does fit between the rack uprights to support it with a shelf. I do have some criticisms, explained below.

HIGHLIGHTS

-Very nice case, superb metal work, cell compression provided via foam dividers. Seplos makes nice cases!
-Very nice busbars for BMS power connections. Made of laminated copper layers, plated, rigid where connections are made and flexible in-between.
-BMS connections to individual cells made via PC boards, resulting in very neat wiring.
-Adequate build directions translated well to English. They're not Heathkit style hand-holding directions, but totally sufficient to get the job done.
-No missing parts.

LOWLIGHTS/SHORTCOMINGS (detailed below)

-Awful communication about shipping process and progress.
-No mechanical shutoff.
-Questionable internal fuse.
-Not so good power connectors on the panel (The other Mason kits use a different connector).

SHIPPING PROCESS AND COMMUNICATION

For shipping to USA, Seplos turns the package over to a forwarder for the ocean shipping, then (in my case) over to Fedex freight for delivery inside the states. None of this is communicated up front, and the process becomes (1) Send your money, (2) Hope, and (3) About 3 to 4 months later you will get a call from Fedex to arrange delivery (which I and other buyers did). Instead of simply explaining this, Seplos provided misleading info for my shipping enquires that left me thinking for about a month I'd never see the Masons. IMO if they want to succeed in the USA market they need to find a way for someone who speaks good English to provide correct shipping process and status info, or establish a USA based distributor.

NO MECHANICAL SHUTOFF

This is definitely opinion. After all, lead acid batteries don't have a shutoff. I want to be sure that the battery is really off when making connections. The BMS can be commanded to shut off the power terminals. My distrust of this arrangement was confirmed a few times when it turned itself on while I was making a connection or doing something with the RS485 interface (I didn't spend time to drill down on this). My response was to add a 125 amp circuit breaker to use as a shutoff. It's in series with a 100 amp fuse, so in theory anyway, the breaker should never trip.

QUESTIONABLE INTERNAL FUSE

The standard fuse is a 150 amp MIDI fuse, its spec sheet listing the "breaking capacity" at 1,000 amps. I do not have fuse expertise. Based on info from the forum I concluded this is not adequate and replaced it with a 100 amp class-T fuse. 100 amps should be sufficient for my PV system, maybe not for a different system. I want the fuse to blow before the 125 amp breaker, which has a lower AIC rating. While a 100 amp fuse is not adequate for the 100 amp max output of the battery, it is adequate for my weaker link of inverter and charger, which should never push or pull more than 80 amps. If I do get nuisance blowing of the fuse, the standoffs I used to mount it can be adjusted to accommodate the physically larger class-T fuses over 100 amps.

NOT SO GOOD POWER CONNECTORS

The power connectors use nice heavy fine pitch 10mm studs. That's the good part. There are 2 bad parts: (1) The studs are too short for the lug thickness on my 2/0 cables. Only 2 or 3 threads are engaged by the tightening nut. (2) The nuts are meant to be hand-tightened, which is not good enough for me. When using pliers, I spun the plastic cover on the metal nut. I solved this by flipping the stud and using a hex nut for the battery cable connection. When flipped, the stud length is more than sufficient for the battery cable, and just long enough for the BMS busbar connection inside the case.

ASSEMBLY NOTES

You absolutely need a 1/4 inch torque wrench and 10 mm socket for the cell connections. Some of the internal components are shipped fastened inside the case. The screws used to attach these parts for shipping are not used in the final assembly, which confused me in some cases about the proper fasteners to use. The shrink tubing on the shank of the ring terminals for BMS connections to the cells was too long, capturing the tubing under the securing nut. The 9 screws that secure the end plate of the battery case are too short for assembly. Once the between-cell foam is compressed they're fine. It's easiest to have nine longer M5 screws to use at least temporarily until the foam sheets are compressed. I tightened the screws gradually over a few days to compress the foam. The Seplos videos tighten them completely in one shot. Before attaching the battery case end plate, that's the chance to make sure the cells are all lined up in a straight line. Once the end plate is tightened, it's too late to nudge them. The instructions make no mention of cleaning the battery terminals or aluminum busbars before attaching the busbars, or of using any kind of anti oxidation and/or conductive paste. I enhanced this part of the build, based on forum posts. I also top balanced the cells before installing them in the case. While the instructions don't call for this, they do specify a complete charge and discharge cycle before placing the battery into service.

(Continued in next post)

This first batch of photos shows the packaging and parts. The first is as the shipment arrived, the second after removing the shrink wrap. The LiFePO4 cells are shipped in their own boxes, 8 to a box. The Mason case is in its own box, with all of the parts shipped inside the case. The only shipping damage was to the box in the 3rd image. There was a slight crease on the side of the cell behind the damage, which I chose to ignore.
View attachment 107188 View attachment 107190 View attachment 107191 View attachment 107192 View attachment 107193

View attachment 107194 View attachment 107195 View attachment 107196
What manufacturer are your cells?
 
There is a QR sticker on the top of each cell. They are visible in one of the photos in post #2. They are covered by the balance lead PCB, shown in the next picture. I'd have to do a lot of disassembly to see one of the stickers. In hindsight I wish I had taken a good picture of one of the stickers, but I didn't.
 
Any updated thoughts after a couple months of operation?
Just saw this about 2 months later. Short answer: No new thoughts. The Masons have been working well. They won't get a real test unless we have a lengthy grid outage, but the overnight tests have looked good. Every time I have a wrench on one of the terminals I'm very happy that I added the positive mechanical shutoff.
 
I bought four pre assembled from a company and they came with breakers on the front. I installed the batteries 5 days ago. I have Outback charge controllers and one of the charge controller controls the switch over to utility power.

My two main concerns now are that although the batteries are paralleled (company says best to connect each battery directly to the bus bar so I have to get longer cables) the third battery is consistently lower in state of charge (soc) and the soc of all 4 do not match the voltage, for example voltage says 53.36v but 48.39% soc instead of being at least in the 70% up! The company says the batteries have to go through a few charging and discharging cycles for batteries to come closer. (The company reconfigured using the CAN dip switch settings instead of the rs485 I'd used.)

The company originally told me to set all charging to 54.4v but since Outback voltage readings not the same they changed it to 57v and low battery disconnect to 53v and reconnect to 54v! I'd had the values set to 48v and 52v, respectively and on day 2 the batteries, charge controllers and inverter shut down because the batteries, although showing a voltage of the 50s said soc was in the single digits! I asked company if the BMS was working or needed resetting and they said I should watch the SOC, not the voltage! I feel something is wrong with the BMS or its settings but I will wait and see what happens.
 
I put in a 5th battery and with a voltage of over 52v it says 8% soc and two days in a row now won't start charging even after a reset. I had to turn off one of the other batteries to get it to start!
 
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