Shipping Container solar AC

[Checkthisout]

I agree. Very easy to add a second roof. It was the first thing I did when I got my container. It’s my west wall that is getting tortured by the evening sun. But I think I have a good solution to get it shaded.

Your container looks great. I looked at the insofast stuff but it was just so expensive for what it is. I left enough room in my plans to add either more framing or another layer of 2” foam panels. I like doing things in stages to see how they work then add more if needed.

Solar panels are sooooo cheap now. Order a pallet and mount them to the sides of the container for shade.

 

[SilverbackMP]

Honestly the only real solution to no air is spray foam. Anything else it doesn’t matter if it’s a 1/16”or 2” gap. Also, air is a fairly good insulator and insulation material typically works better if it’s not packed in super tight.

I disagree that you can’t get good coverage with other methods. If you can get good contact with the metal with with closed cell foam, in any form, you’re going to do away with condensation.

 

[SoakedUp]

Do away with? Not really. Minimize, sure, IF you can get a good air tight seal. It’s a lot harder with any method other than spray foam. Any infiltration of air between the insulation and container wall will carry moisture, regardless of how big the gap is was my point.

 

[SilverbackMP]

Do away with? Not really. Minimize, sure, IF you can get a good air tight seal. It’s a lot harder with any method other than spray foam. Any infiltration of air between the insulation and container wall will carry moisture, regardless of how big the gap is was my point.

Construction adhesive, plastic spreader, some cans of window and door spray foam, butyl tape, foam cut or made to fill the cavities. IMHO, good enough for climatized storage and even a home if on a budget. I spent $27k on closed cell foam for a 36x48x16 shop (and one wall is mostly door with 2x 12x12). 2 inches on the walls and 3 on the roof deck. Not everyone has the finances. Especially starting out.

 

[Checkthisout]

Do away with? Not really. Minimize, sure, IF you can get a good air tight seal. It’s a lot harder with any method other than spray foam. Any infiltration of air between the insulation and container wall will carry moisture, regardless of how big the gap is was my point.

I cut a hole in my foam to see if the wall had moisture on it.

None. The tops and bottoms of the foam are pinched by the top and bottom plates so that gives a good seal and the foil tape on the seams.

I'm in airplane hangars a lot. Those are fiberglass with vinyl vapor barrier. Unless the roof has a leak, you can check that stuff via the inevitable rips in the vapor barrier and the wall and insulation are still dry, 40 years into their service life.

 

[Checkthisout]

Do away with? Not really. Minimize, sure, IF you can get a good air tight seal. It’s a lot harder with any method other than spray foam. Any infiltration of air between the insulation and container wall will carry moisture, regardless of how big the gap is was my point.

Spray foam along with thin framing is a good choice as it "glues" the otherwise flimsy framing to the walls.

 

[SoakedUp]

Construction adhesive, plastic spreader, some cans of window and door spray foam, butyl tape, foam cut or made to fill the cavities. IMHO, good enough for climatized storage and even a home if on a budget. I spent $27k on closed cell foam for a 36x48x16 shop (and one wall is mostly door with 2x 12x12). 2 inches on the walls and 3 on the roof deck. Not everyone has the finances. Especially starting out.

Totally understand. I’d even say that’s more than enough. I mean look at my method. It was very simple. I know I’m not 100% sealed. Is condensation possible in my situation? Absolutely. But my climate doesn’t promote mold growth, it was easy enough to put up with out hassle and will come down just as easily if I need to redo or clean out some mold. Im not insulating a living quarter so I wasn’t too concerned.

 

[SoakedUp]

I cut a hole in my foam to see if the wall had moisture on it.

None. The tops and bottoms of the foam are pinched by the top and bottom plates so that gives a good seal and the foil tape on the seams.

I'm in airplane hangars a lot. Those are fiberglass with vinyl vapor barrier. Unless the roof has a leak, you can check that stuff via the inevitable rips in the vapor barrier and the wall and insulation are still dry, 40 years into their service life.

I was thinking I might do this down the road just to check on things. Can always glue the foam plug back in.

 

[G00SE]

Again, if it works it works but I would opt to roof the outside and get some eaves and shade the container that way.

I was only going to put the roof that the panels are mounted on but then opted to do the whole container.

12' x 3' metal sheets are currently $50.00 at homes depot so 15 sheets, $750.00 plus framing. Maybe $1600.00 all done. Half that for a 20 foot container. ?View attachment 177885

Do you have a build thread for this container? That’s amazing

 

[Hedges]

Insulation on the inside, container exposed to freezing outside, humid air reaches it and condenses unless completely sealed. I suppose you could tape up a vapor barrier. Ought to have the sealed space vented to outside so it can breath and dry out in the summer?

Insulation on outside (and you need surface able to withstand weather), container is thermal mass and doesn't condense. But avoid paths for inside air to leak out to the sheathing to prevent condensation. Maybe OK for vinyl or aluminum, not for wood or steel. So penetrations like windows and doors should vent to outside, with sheathing finished to container before any openings.

Some of my aluminum windows are Milguard, with thermal breaks. Others have aluminum frame continuous from inside to outside, and those get condensation on inside. If you use vinyl that wouldn't happen.

 

[Checkthisout]

It looks like the OP is using a single hose portable a/c.

That means you have to let hot make-up air back in from the outside somewhere.

Container is the tightest envelope one could possibly have.

 

[Checkthisout]

Insulation on the inside, container exposed to freezing outside, humid air reaches it and condenses unless completely sealed. I suppose you could tape up a vapor barrier. Ought to have the sealed space vented to outside so it can breath and dry out in the summer?

No. No sealed space for breathing outside. Make sure and plug the equalization vents that come on the container as well. You don't want anyway for airflow to get behind the insulation.

container is just a metal building. Treat it as such.

And make sure it's up off the ground at least 6" so air can circulate underneath. If one is going to skirt it, put down a vapor barrier on the ground first. In other words treat it like you would a crawlspace for a house.

 

[Checkthisout]

Do you have a build thread for this container? That’s amazing

Thank you. No, I do not. Maybe later.

 

[SoakedUp]

It looks like the OP is using a single hose portable a/c.

That means you have to let hot make-up air back in from the outside somewhere.

Container is the tightest envelope one could possibly have.

It’s a dual hose in hose portable AC. But I’m only using the exhaust portion of the hose through the floor. I have a seperate inline fan as the intake which is aimed directly at the intake portion of the AC hose. Kinda confusing but that’s the set up.

 

[Checkthisout]

It’s a dual hose in hose portable AC. But I’m only using the exhaust portion of the hose through the floor. I have a seperate inline fan as the intake which is aimed directly at the intake portion of the AC hose. Kinda confusing but that’s the set up.

My bad

 

[SilverbackMP]

And make sure it's up off the ground at least 6" so air can circulate underneath. If one is going to skirt it, put down a vapor barrier on the ground first. In other words treat it like you would a crawlspace for a house.

Yeah, you see YouTubers flop them down all the time with no blocking underneath. Any Veteran that’s spent time in the motor pool will know that’s not a good idea.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Seems like a lot of people do not insulate the floor (we did not)

 

[SoakedUp]

Seems like a lot of people do not insulate the floor (we did not)

I’m planning to put 1.5” foam board on the floor. I’ve seen a bunch of people spray foam the underside of the container.

 

[Checkthisout]

I estimate the insulation value of mine to be like R13.

It doesn't hold heat very well. Its not like a Yeti cooler or anything. Maybe akin to a house with 2x4 framed walls. I do have two 12' sliding doors. The glass is insulated but I think that still only gets you like an R4.

 

[Scat]

Do away with? Not really. Minimize, sure, IF you can get a good air tight seal. It’s a lot harder with any method other than spray foam. Any infiltration of air between the insulation and container wall will carry moisture, regardless of how big the gap is was my point.

check out the Catainer Guy, he has many you tube video and makes items for containers.

https://www.youtube.com/@TheContainerGuyTV

I am not a affiliate of his site, I just found it and found it interesting.
5 Ways To Insulate Your Shipping Container: Which Is The Best?