source for 120v efficient refrigerators

[WYtreasure]

If you really want to save on electricity costs, you can always turn a plain old chest freezer into a refrigerator using a Johnson controller. Unlike a refrigerator, the coldness will stay inside when you open the top. Here's what it looks like:

Welcome to the party escheie. You're COOOL ?

 

[Seven30]

All residential combination refrigerator/freezers are freezers, with a fan to blow cold air from the freezer circuit to the cooler side...
So, YES refrigerators have a defrost... because they are freezers... with a room that gets less of the frozen air.

They also have heaters in them to reduce moisture on the seals etc to prevent microbial growth...

The new norcold in my RV conversion is great if your in cold weather and have propane. But otherwise its got to go. Anyone have
experience with the LG linear compressor?

This 6.9cuft LG LRONC0705V does not have a fan and should be efficient with the linear compressor vs the 1950's induction motor.
Some interesting points;

• Defrosting is easy and convenient with the touch of one button - Semi Auto Defrost, the automatic process is done in 1-hours, for a quick return to maximum cooling
• Linear Compressor reacts quickly to temperature fluctuations and helps keep your food fresher, longer,

EDIT: LG had/has compressor reliability issues apparently. At least in the large side-by-side models. Bummer.

 

[Bluedog225]

If you really want to save on electricity costs, you can always turn a plain old chest freezer into a refrigerator using a Johnson controller. Unlike a refrigerator, the coldness will stay inside when you open the top. Here's what it looks like:

This is the answer to storing LiFePo4 batteries in hot climates (110F). Big chest freezer, a couple of panels, and a battery. Stand-alone cooling system or tie it into a bigger system.

 

[Seven30]

This is the answer to storing LiFePo4 batteries in hot climates (110F). Big chest freezer, a couple of panels, and a battery. Stand-alone cooling system or tie it into a bigger system.

Or cold ones too! Retains heat.

 

[Bluedog225]

I guess my diy battery needs to be built with lifting straps to raise and lower into the freezer. Any maybe an engine hoist to do the lifting.

 

[Sverige]

This seems to have the samsung linear compressor:

LG - 6.9 Cu Ft Single Door Refrigerator - Platinum silver​

Model:LRONC0705V
SKU:6452360

Any opinions?

They don’t have a great reputation (LG linear compressors), but a lot of the reported problems are from years ago. You’d hope they have sorted things out by now and improved their design.

My only reservation would be will it run from an off grid inverter, as these LG compressors are described as “linear inverter compressor” I wonder if it might be fussy over the quality of the mains supply it runs from. But maybe it works fine?

EDIT: sorry, just noticed the post I replied to was from April - maybe you went ahead and bought it and already know if it works?

 

[ElectricIslander]

We have an LG Inverter fridge and it's worked fine on an inverter generator. Haven't run it on a battery inverter yet though.

 

[Goboatingnow]

The Samsung invertor fridges are very good. My Bosch side by side with ice , is great but noisy

 

[TC McClure]

I bought a Sun Frost fridge in the early 90's for our off-grid home. 4" foam walls, compressors on top and your choice of Formica sheeting outside. They claimed it consumed 70 watts. It's worked like a charm for 30 years. I called them last year to buy a new light bulb and was told they are no longer in business. The reason:new fridges are now equally efficient. But if you can find one used, you will have the efficiency for which you are looking.

 

[Deveak]

I’m struggling to find a proper farm fridge, let alone efficient. 99% of refrigerators I see are designed for someone living in a city with a nearby grocery store. I live out in the sticks.

I need a massive refrigerator, built like an upright freezer with metal reinforced shelving. I found combo refrigerators to have a ton of wasted space, I would rather just use a chest freezer.

I have a 19 cubic ft Frigidaire and it’s as good as I could do on short notice. One trend I like is newer refrigerators are going back to external condensers (but fan driven) instead of wrapping it under the skin.

Because of that I was able to insults it with 1 inch foam and drop it down to 650 watts a day from 1100.

 

[ElectricIslander]

I’m struggling to find a proper farm fridge, let alone efficient. 99% of refrigerators I see are designed for someone living in a city with a nearby grocery store. I live out in the sticks.

I need a massive refrigerator, built like an upright freezer with metal reinforced shelving. I found combo refrigerators to have a ton of wasted space, I would rather just use a chest freezer.

I have a 19 cubic ft Frigidaire and it’s as good as I could do on short notice. One trend I like is newer refrigerators are going back to external condensers (but fan driven) instead of wrapping it under the skin.

Because of that I was able to insults it with 1 inch foam and drop it down to 650 watts a day from 1100.

I've put 1" foam on our LG Inverter fridge too (also has rear vented compressor), but haven't had a chance to measure change in energy consumption yet (we shut off fridge at nite so foam helps keep it cool overnight).

My off grid mother in law took it one step further, physically moved compressor out of enclosure (to reduce heat transfer to cold side) and placed the fridge's condenser heat exchanger in a tall insulated chimney located out doors. That really upped the efficiency due to lower T environment outside, and thermal draft in the chimney. They had to drain and refill the refrigerant though to extend insulated lines out to the chimney heat exchanger. Sort of a "mini-split refrigerator" concept. Worked (works) well!

I'm thinking of doing sort of the opposite, bringing the outdoor air in to the fridge. Our fridge is on a corner of an outside wall. Nothing stopping me from putting in two vents through the wall and building an insulated chimney duct in the corner. The LG has two vents on the back, air intake on one side of the back, air out on the other. I could put pipe foam gaskets around the edges of each vent on the fridge, make matching ports with air in through the bottom of the wall and with air out at the base of the chimney duct which would go up and out at the top of the wall, roll fridge back in against exterior vent openings making seal with foam gaskets.

By using smooth bends and removing the crude hardboard grille on the fridge vents, plus chimney draft effect I think I could actually improve air flow and also get the benefits of cooler outside air (in Pacific North West, on a north wall so outside air always colder than inside).

 

[Deveak]

I've put 1" foam on our LG Inverter fridge too (also has rear vented compressor), but haven't had a chance to measure change in energy consumption yet (we shut off fridge at nite so foam helps keep it cool overnight).

My off grid mother in law took it one step further, physically moved compressor out of enclosure (to reduce heat transfer to cold side) and placed the fridge's condenser heat exchanger in a tall insulated chimney located out doors. That really upped the efficiency due to lower T environment outside, and thermal draft in the chimney. They had to drain and refill the refrigerant though to extend insulated lines out to the chimney heat exchanger. Sort of a "mini-split refrigerator" concept. Worked (works) well!

I'm thinking of doing sort of the opposite, bringing the outdoor air in to the fridge. Our fridge is on a corner of an outside wall. Nothing stopping me from putting in two vents through the wall and building an insulated chimney duct in the corner. The LG has two vents on the back, air intake on one side of the back, air out on the other. I could put pipe foam gaskets around the edges of each vent on the fridge, make matching ports with air in through the bottom of the wall and with air out at the base of the chimney duct which would go up and out at the top of the wall, roll fridge back in against exterior vent openings making seal with foam gaskets.

By using smooth bends and removing the crude hardboard grille on the fridge vents, plus chimney draft effect I think I could actually improve air flow and also get the benefits of cooler outside air (in Pacific North West, on a north wall so outside air always colder than inside).

I wish I knew more about refrigeration to do something like that. Honesty I wish someone made a lot for a DIY refrigerated box, just place on top with a bulk head seal between the condenser and evaporator, like an old crown top. Insulate the hell out of it, make a small walk in closet refrigerator.

Did you have to add refrigerant?

 

[Jims94vmx]

Just ordered a Frigidaire 13.9 cu fridge to replace our Dometic 1350 4 door absorption fridge that is dying currently.

Has a great rating and Energy star rated. Estimated annual cost 40 bucks and yearly electric use is 332 kwh

599 price. Hoping to get it and install in my 5th wheel. 337RLS Reflection....next week.

 

[NC_hydro]

I have an on grid and off grid place and both of them have Samsung 21cu Ft top freezer models that can be converted to fridge on top as well. Digital inverter motor and my testing when plugged into a watt meter is around 75watts with top and bottom fridge and 90watts with the top as freezer. (no ice maker) Cost is around $1,250 currently, when I got mine in 2018 it was $899. I am THRILLED with them both. One has been running since 2018 and the other since 2021.

Model #RT21M6215SR comes in different colors as I recall.

 

[Jims94vmx]

here is a follow up on my hunt from Dometic 12cu 4 door 1350 absorption fridge to a Frigidaire 13.9 cu 120v fridge in rv.
All I can say is WOW. Here is my experiment.

7PM to 7AM (12 hours no solar at all)

step 1 was a baseline for just parasitic draw day 1 5.4A used in 12 hours

step 2 was parasitic draw plus inverter powered on no loads. 12A used in 12 hours

step 3 was now putting load on inverter. 29A used in 12 hours!

so if you take out step 2 (I know you really can't ), fridge used 17A in 12 hours! Lol

I wanted a 120v fridge to run efficiently when on shore power and do the same on inverter. This unit being 2cu ft larger then my Dometic 4 door and 100 lbs lighter and $599. WOW

would love to see a similar test with 12v fridges. Anyone?

 

[ElectricIslander]

here is a follow up on my hunt from Dometic 12cu 4 door 1350 absorption fridge to a Frigidaire 13.9 cu 120v fridge in rv.
All I can say is WOW. Here is my experiment.

7PM to 7AM (12 hours no solar at all)

step 1 was a baseline for just parasitic draw day 1 5.4A used in 12 hours

step 2 was parasitic draw plus inverter powered on no loads. 12A used in 12 hours

step 3 was now putting load on inverter. 29A used in 12 hours!

so if you take out step 2 (I know you really can't ), fridge used 17A in 12 hours! Lol

I wanted a 120v fridge to run efficiently when on shore power and do the same on inverter. This unit being 2cu ft larger then my Dometic 4 door and 100 lbs lighter and $599. WOW

would love to see a similar test with 12v fridges. Anyone?

Amp-hrs times volts is energy used (Watt-hrs). Amps alone just means instantaneous current. Does "Step 1" measurement mean 5.4 A-hrs averaged over 12 hrs? (i.e. 120 V x 5.4 Amps x 12 hrs = 7776 Watts) or does it mean the more likely total of 5.4 A-hrs added up over a 12 hr period? (i.e. 120V x 5.4 A-hr = 648 WattHrs)? 648 WattHrs over 12 hrs, is about 1.3 KWhr - typical of a normal electric fridge.

 

[Jims94vmx]

Amp-hrs times volts is energy used (Watt-hrs). Amps alone just means instantaneous current. Does "Step 1" measurement mean 5.4 A-hrs averaged over 12 hrs? (i.e. 120 V x 5.4 Amps x 12 hrs = 7776 Watts) or does it mean the more likely total of 5.4 A-hrs added up over a 12 hr period? (i.e. 120V x 5.4 A-hr = 648 WattHrs)? 648 WattHrs over 12 hrs, is about 1.3 KWhr - typical of a normal electric fridge.

The numbers are totals for the 12hr period. 5.4A used total. Parasitic loads show .45 or close

The 2nd day with inverter brought it to 1A per hour or 12A used in 12 hours.

Total 12 hours with fridge was 29A used total.......

 

[ElectricIslander]

The numbers are totals for the 12hr period. 5.4A used total. Parasitic loads show .45 or close

The 2nd day with inverter brought it to 1A per hour or 12A used in 12 hours.

Total 12 hours with fridge was 29A used total.......

One can't meaningfully say "5.4 A used total" and have anyone understand. It's confusing unless you include the A-hr distinction. For example: 5.4 A-hr (equivalent of 5.4 Amps for 1 hour or 2.7 Amps for 2 hrs etc.).

It's like the difference between speed (miles per hour) and distance (miles = speed multiplied by time).

 

[OzSolar]

One can't meaningfully say "5.4 A used total" and have anyone understand. It's confusing unless you include the A-hr distinction. For example: 5.4 A-hr (equivalent of 5.4 Amps for 1 hour or 2.7 Amps for 2 hrs etc.).

It's like the difference between speed (miles per hour) and distance (miles = speed multiplied by time).

Agreed. I'll add that at the most useful units are watts and watt hours because amps and amp hours still don't tell us the full picture.

12 amp hours at 12v vs. 12 amp hours at 48v = ~144 watt hours vs ~576 watts hours

 

[Jims94vmx]

Guys, the original numbers are totals of amps used in the 12 hour period. So 5.4A÷12 hour time frame=.45ah (parasitic loads)
12A÷12 hour time frame=1ah (inverter no load)
29A÷12 hour time frame=2.41ah (fridge on inverter)