Of course. Saftey first. We have figured the disconnect part out.Spoken from someone who has had a trailer disconnect, you want to plan for the worst case scenario - trailer and 7pin disconnect.
Nope.Do you have any first hand experience with them?
CalgaryWhat part of the province are you in? I’m in the Edmonton area.
Enjoy the spring like weather we're expecting this weekend.
I'll be interested to know where you land. I was convinced I was going with Canadian Solar panels from cdnsolar.ca but shot out to the RV yesterday and their smallest 300W panel is 2" too wide. I might be stuck with overpriced Renogy.
If your summarize your 24 volt system I will make an 12 volt version.Sooo.. Question for you folks.
How would one set this up as a 12v system? Do you need the 1 larger MMPT controller.. sounds like it is possible to use 2 smaller controllers.
I understand setting up the battery in parallel. But how do you setup 2 separate smaller charge controllers if the batteries are wired in parallel?
In my scenario id guess I would wire one 400w panel to a controller , the other panel to the other controller?
perhaps I am upside down on this idea.. just getting more curious about that idea of staying at 12v instead of 24.
Sooo.. Question for you folks.
How would one set this up as a 12v system? Do you need the 1 larger MMPT controller.. sounds like it is possible to use 2 smaller controllers.
I understand setting up the battery in parallel. But how do you setup 2 separate smaller charge controllers if the batteries are wired in parallel?
In my scenario id guess I would wire one 400w panel to a controller , the other panel to the other controller?
perhaps I am upside down on this idea.. just getting more curious about that idea of staying at 12v instead of 24.
There should be a set of common bus bars in your system where the loads all connect into. The batteries will also connect into these bus bars. The two MPPT solar charge controllers would also tie into the same common bus bars. Once you connect the two solar charge controllers to the common bus bars, you're done. They will both work.
If your summarize your 24 volt system I will make an 12 volt version.
so its ok to have 2 controllers hook up through a bus bar? they wont feed back each other or anything?
What happens if one of the panels is shaded and that controller turns off?
Some good points for a 12 volt system there. Is Sterling Power the only maker of a 12 to 24 volt DC to DC Charger? My 12 volt loads are minimal and I already have a 24 volt inverter and 24 volt battery otherwise I’d likely go with a 12 volt system. .
Could you not have used a larger all in one units. Like those growatt 3000 systems. Seems that would solve your problem of not being limited to 1000 watts. They seem to be an excellent solution for a budget conscious builder.Sounds like you are sorting it out, but I wanted to comment as I recently did a fairly large rewiring of my smaller TT with a 12V system and a MP Solar all in one (1012lv I believe).
When I wired things, I wanted to not mess around with certain outlets not working depending if I was on shore power, etc. So, other than the Microwave and AC unit, the rest of the panel runs off the inverter. This is fine, but it means you cannot plug anything over 1000W into any outlet, regardless of whether you are plugged into the pedestal (obviously). This is SO DAMNED frustrating. Instant pot? over 1K watts. Tiny nespresso machine? Over 1K. I ended up having to wire in some additional outlets that bypass the inverter.
Honestly, if I did it again, I would not have done the all-in-one, although that is the ONLY complaint I have.