Valence XP Super Thread

[aentrop]

I have a U-BMS-LV in hand. Where can I get the CAN bus to USB adapter? (Not the RS485 adapter for talking to the individual modules, I already have that working). And also the CAN software?

this work?
amazon.com

on the bms there are two 26 pin connectors, what are these called so I can buy a plug end to make my wiring harness? The 26 pin IDC connectors with the flat cables look like they might fit but I dont have any handy or a test fit.

 

[WinnieVan]

I have a U-BMS-LV in hand. Where can I get the CAN bus to USB adapter? (Not the RS485 adapter for talking to the individual modules, I already have that working). And also the CAN software?

this work?
amazon.com

on the bms there are two 26 pin connectors, what are these called so I can buy a plug end to make my wiring harness? The 26 pin IDC connectors with the flat cables look like they might fit but I dont have any handy or a test fit.

Pretty sure they are Tyco Superseal 1.0

I used to have the part number but can’t find it now.

I may have an extra set of connectors — PM me and I’ll check for you.

 

[WinnieVan]

I think this is what you’re after:

1473712-2 : SUPERSEAL Automotive Housings

Get 1473712-2 SUPERSEAL Automotive Housings specs, pricing, inventory availability, and more from TE Connectivity. Get a sample or request a quote.

www.te.com

 

[Travis]

I have a U-BMS-LV in hand. Where can I get the CAN bus to USB adapter? (Not the RS485 adapter for talking to the individual modules, I already have that working).

CANUSB (USB to CAN converter)

USB to CAN converter

canusbshop.com

 

[ericgrand]

I have a U-BMS-LV in hand. Where can I get the CAN bus to USB adapter? (Not the RS485 adapter for talking to the individual modules, I already have that working). And also the CAN software?

this work?
amazon.com

on the bms there are two 26 pin connectors, what are these called so I can buy a plug end to make my wiring harness? The 26 pin IDC connectors with the flat cables look like they might fit but I dont have any handy or a test fit.

I have ordered the following con nectors. They are working perfectly:

6.5US $ |26p 1.0mm Super Seal 26 Pos Pin Modified Ecu Connector Female Auto Computer Connector 1473712-1 1473712-2 - Cables, Adapters & Sockets - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[aentrop]

I have ordered the following con nectors. They are working perfectly:

6.5US $ |26p 1.0mm Super Seal 26 Pos Pin Modified Ecu Connector Female Auto Computer Connector 1473712-1 1473712-2 - Cables, Adapters & Sockets - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Any chance you have an extra you would be willing to sell me? If not I'll order those from China and just wait a while for delivery

 

[ericgrand]

Sorry, I need both. And I'm in France...

 

[ValkyrieVanLife]

Newbie here, would love some help TIA! I’ve got a blinking red light. It shows a status flag of “Under 2.3V w/ Chg Curr”. I’ve tried the user manual thing of charging at 1 Amp, but it’s up to 98.82 state or charge and still blinking red light. It also says balancing status is inactive. If anyone knows what to do and can help explain in super basic terms, I would be super grateful!

 

[skpro]

Newbie here, would love some help TIA! I’ve got a blinking red light. It shows a status flag of “Under 2.3V w/ Chg Curr”. I’ve tried the user manual thing of charging at 1 Amp, but it’s up to 98.82 state or charge and still blinking red light. It also says balancing status is inactive. If anyone knows what to do and can help explain in super basic terms, I would be super grateful! View attachment 103539

I've had the same problem before. I was able to clear the red light and error by opening the access to the balance board, and disconnect the balance cable for a minute, then reconnect it. As long as the error is not still occurring, it should clear out.

 

[aentrop]

Keep on charging the battery, once you get closer to 13.4-13.7 the balancers will kick on and start bleeding off the highest cells. If any one cell gets up to 3650 then stop the charging until it goes back down. Keep on going until you can get it all the way up to 14.2v without any balancing going on. It might take a few hours, or might take a couple of weeks, depending on how unbalanced they are.

Be sure to keep the software on and running - it will not enable the balance resisters if the software is not running

 

[ValkyrieVanLife]

Keep on charging the battery, once you get closer to 13.4-13.7 the balancers will kick on and start bleeding off the highest cells. If any one cell gets up to 3650 then stop the charging until it goes back down. Keep on going until you can get it all the way up to 14.2v without any balancing going on. It might take a few hours, or might take a couple of weeks, depending on how unbalanced they are.

Be sure to keep the software on and running - it will not enable the balance resisters if the software is not running

This is a little above my knowledge level - where in the software do I see the current voltage? Is it the “Module voltage” box - at 13.293?

 

[ValkyrieVanLife]

I've had the same problem before. I was able to clear the red light and error by opening the access to the balance board, and disconnect the balance cable for a minute, then reconnect it. As long as the error is not still occurring, it should clear out.

Do you know if there are any videos or diagrams that show how to do this? I’m so new to this, I’m not sure how.

 

[aentrop]

This is a little above my knowledge level - where in the software do I see the current voltage? Is it the “Module voltage” box - at 13.293?

Yes, module voltage is the battery itself. Cell Bank 1,2,3,4 are the 4 individual blocks inside that are wired in series. From your photo, 3.323v+3.323+3.324+3.323=13.293v

Do you know if there are any videos or diagrams that show how to do this? I’m so new to this, I’m not sure how.

You remove the tiny screws on the side of the battery to take off the plastic side cover, inside there is a circuit board.

 

[escheie]

I had a similar situation, and I got the red light to clear by using a power supply set to 13.6 volts. I watched it carefully, and when one of the cells started to get too high, I lowered it to 13.4 and kept it there until everything was top balanced. The red light went out and the battery has been working since then (although it suffered some damage and doesn't reach the same voltages as the rest of the bank).

 

[Travis]

I can no longer suggest active balancers that don't have a cut in voltage set point for lfp batteries. Valence is lfp. What recently happened to me is when one cell has a slow self-discharge the balancer in the picture caused all the others to dump their power into its bank of 4 which raises the three others and causes them to go over voltage next time you do a top balance which in my case is nearly every day as the sun comes out. The original valance ubms caught the over voltage condition and shut the pack down for protection. I've gone through hundreds of these batteries and I rarely have issues but some sets simply need stronger balancers because of their condition. If your batteries are having trouble staying balanced after an initial top balancing I recommend adding a JK active BMS or even using the JK BMS to completely delete the original valence boards. If you have a lot of batteries an original valence ubms is beneficial.

Keywords: u27-12xp U27-24XP

 

[Travis]

I also think active balancers with no voltage cut in set point that work on every cell individually instead of in groups of four like the one above are also a bad idea. The voltage curve is so flat that even the slightest imperfection in a voltage sample can cause the active balancer too create imbalances throughout the time in which the voltage is in the flat part of the curve which will cause overvoltage conditions when you try and top balance. Maybe it was just imperfections in the design but this has been done in real world testing finding the above results.

 

[Travis]

Honestly I don't think I'd even use them in regular lithium ion where the voltage curve isn't so flat because if you had a week or lower capacity sell dive in voltage under a heavy load you would have the active balancer charging that cell at that moment which could again cause a problem during top balancing. The problem wouldn't be so pronounced though because the voltage would hopefully very enough between the cells after the imbalance was caused to cause it to rebalance. But do you really want microcycles like that? I think active balancing is best done only in the steep parts of the voltage curve near top balancing or bottom balancing whichever method suits your batteries use. I like the bottom balancing personally because lower voltages equals slower degradation but the problem there is that you would have to drain your battery dead in order to accomplish that bottom balancing. When you're off grid no one wants a dead battery. Maybe in something a little easier to drain dead like an eBike.

 

[Htfan]

I purchased some gently used U24-12XP batteries and wanted to share my positive experience modifying/using these with a non-Valence external BMS.

First I opened the side waterproof compartment to locate the 4S balance wires:



Was very happy to see it was similar to a traditional 6S JST balance connector.


So I removed the proprietary Valence BMS cables (saved them) and pulled the JST-like connector through the same hole. Then I sealed up the holes to make them waterproof again. All of this is removable and the battery can be returned to the factory Valence configuration easily.



All sealed up and ready to be connected to my BMS of choice!



Some initial cell readings before charging/balancing:

 

[mtnbrit]

I have 4P of U27-12XP in my RV. Can anyone provide optimal settings profiles for Victron MPPT 100/50 and Magnum MS2812 inverter/charger with ME-ARC?

 

[Solgato]

I purchased some gently used U24-12XP batteries and wanted to share my positive experience modifying/using these with a non-Valence external BMS.

First I opened the side waterproof compartment to locate the 4S balance wires:
View attachment 107578


Was very happy to see it was similar to a traditional 6S JST balance connector.
View attachment 107579

So I removed the proprietary Valence BMS cables (saved them) and pulled the JST-like connector through the same hole. Then I sealed up the holes to make them waterproof again. All of this is removable and the battery can be returned to the factory Valence configuration easily.

View attachment 107580

All sealed up and ready to be connected to my BMS of choice!

View attachment 107581

Some initial cell readings before charging/balancing:

View attachment 107582

What BMS are you using and how will you handle temp?

 

[Htfan]

What BMS are you using and how will you handle temp?

I'm using an ANT BMS in a 12s (3 x U24-12XP) configuration. It supports 4 temperature sensors. However, I'm running parameters that max charge at 3.5v per cell so the batteries stay relatively cool. The batteries are in an insulated garage so ambient temperature is under control.

 

[aentrop]

Was very happy to see it was similar to a traditional 6S JST balance connector.

All sealed up and ready to be connected to my BMS of choice!

Can anyone help me figure out what type of JST connectors there are? They are not JST-XH 2.54, the edges are raised and do not fit... there are too many different JST versions out there!!

I connected a Daly 16s Active balancer to a 48v string of 4 u27-12xp's. Added an ESP32 board to the UART port on the Daly and loaded esphome onto the board. Now my valence batteries all connect to wifi and I was able to load all of the individual cell voltages into Home Assistant.

Here is my dashboard, (I'm doing some top balancing at the moment on a few misc batteries)

 

[aentrop]

For the record, I was able to locate the connectors. They are Molex Mini-Lock 53375 Series (on the circuit board) and the other end is a Molex 51103 (wire end)

 

[aentrop]

I ripped open one of my packs, heres photos in case anyone is interested..

You can see the location of the 4 temp probes, and the balance leads too.

 

[Generis]

I ripped open one of my packs, heres photos in case anyone is interested..

You can see the location of the 4 temp probes, and the balance leads too.

Wow this is awesome, thanks for posting these!