diy solar

diy solar

Very new to solar but started purchasing items, not sure of the final specs of the whole system.

53.6/16 = 3.35

Part way up the knee of the curve. That will show if they're top balanced and remain that way.
I suppose some difference in capacity could affect how they move up the curve at equal current. Internal resistance would also produce differences at higher rates of charge/discharge.
 
53.6/16 = 3.35

Part way up the knee of the curve. That will show if they're top balanced and remain that way.
I suppose some difference in capacity could affect how they move up the curve at equal current. Internal resistance would also produce differences at higher rates of charge/discharge.
I measured all resistances for every cell and were equal for this pack. I wanted to have enough batteries to allow for 80%-20% window for charge/discharge.
 
But I don't think you'll know what 80% or 20% is unless you have a coulomb counter. And use it to terminate charging.
Voltage will tell charge controller and inverter when it gets part way into the knee. Maybe you'll charge up to 90% or 95%, then discharge to wherever, like 30%, until sun comes up again.
 
But I don't think you'll know what 80% or 20% is unless you have a coulomb counter. And use it to terminate charging.
Voltage will tell charge controller and inverter when it gets part way into the knee. Maybe you'll charge up to 90% or 95%, then discharge to wherever, like 30%, until sun comes up again.
Kevin at growatt is working on getting me the data to send to batrium, I'm hoping to get it working so it can control charging.
I did get good news signature is getting the Znshine 500w back in so I can finish the 1 array and add a second. On the initial testing before the battery issue came up, 18 panels could provide a surplus with basic loads but not if I tried to use 9k mini split. It takes 36 500w panels to provide a positive surplus for the heating and cooling box 1. The second box can see similiar loads when cooking/ min split on, I plan to just do 36 panels for each of the breaker boxes.
 
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My TDS came in that was suggested by a diysolar member:


Left is tap; right is reverse osmosis:

Left 77, Right 3
Will be interesting to see how well the griot removes the dissolved solids as the panels have developed a decent layer of dirt.
 

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Batrium software is very nice and I went through and changed more parameters to see the finer details in the voltages and colors for readability.
The bypass amps are correct as well I checked them with the clamp meter.


On the cellmons you see the extra bypass mode, I have seen this being used on yt to increase balancing. But repeatedly in the batrium manual and how to's they say not to use this for lifepo4. With the basic configuration the highest amps I have seen on .63.
 

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Super tired after today, found the spacing could have been better on the shelving. I was able to remove batteries to test but rather difficult. I decided to label everything and move the shelf down. I purchased 1500 dust-less sandpaper, redid all the connections, more liberal with ox, went back over every busbar with the debur tool till I could not feel the slightest of anything.
 

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FInished rebuilding the battery very late this morning: set to charge to 54.
Taking timeline screenshots of the charge, time is in the lower right.









 
When cell group 9 hit 3.75 I manually stopped the charge, They are all within roughly .4 of each other.








All cell groups are now within .1 of each other.

 
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While waiting to see how the one bank settles after charging I got some good news. I found the Kia sorento can supply all my charging needs for both batteries.



/j

Tractor battery was out for the count and have to figure why its only 2 months old and its long drive for my
warranty service.
 
They are all within .2 of each other cell group 9 did charge a little faster to 3.375 but that group is now even with the rest.

 
Shunt breaker testing, sadly one does not work that I received. But I'm way past the return window since I was sent the wrong dc/dc which then took even longer as they were back ordered. So, I'm way past the return window but will try and repair it.
Setup the expansion board, monitor for critical errors and connections are very straight forward. Pulled one of the communication plugs.


This is supplying the min split, AC window 18k for client, two fridges, two freezers, two roku, two tv, one small fan for client, plus charging the battery just slightly positive or negative. Going to finish assembly the brush and the griot cleaner as the panels have good layer of film.



Started up inverter 2:
Amps being pulled at the two solar arrays each one is 18 panels:
 

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Heavy clouds 7:35 est sun behind the trees, breville toaster oven is out of bubblegum.



 
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I have been on the phone most of the morning, if you should buy an ABB S5 breaker and need a replacement shunt trip here are the part numbers:
These are for 24v units:
K5S8 - old stock #
KT5SB

Not having a great deal of luck finding them at retail or less pricing, most are backorder 6-8 weeks out.
 
Still cutting copper, got over 400 cuts so far on the bevel saw and the dewalt blade is still cutting with no issues.
 

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Finally got to order the rest of the needed panels, and they will be mounted rougly 125 ft from the house.
I was thinking of using this cable: would this be ok?

200v, 40amps


Voltage drop: 5.09
Voltage drop percentage: 2.55%
Voltage at the end: 194.91
 
"Three phase conductors and one neutral", all same gauge.
Doesn't have a ground, must be meant for a utility connection where ground is made at other end.
You could use two wires for PV and one for ground.

Appears to be direct burial. Is that accepted in your area?
Code for direct burial probably involves sand to protect cable from rocks. It also serves as a warning for anyone trenching. A ribbon is commonly buried on top of the sand.

The numbers look OK. Sure it will work, I just don't now what code requires.
Look up ampacity too, see how it compares to your current.

You will have to find suitable terminations. I got CU/AL splice lugs at the home improvement store. But maybe yours just go in screw lugs in boxes - check the ratings.
 
"Three phase conductors and one neutral", all same gauge.
Doesn't have a ground, must be meant for a utility connection where ground is made at other end.
You could use two wires for PV and one for ground.

Appears to be direct burial. Is that accepted in your area?
Code for direct burial probably involves sand to protect cable from rocks. It also serves as a warning for anyone trenching. A ribbon is commonly buried on top of the sand.

The numbers look OK. Sure it will work, I just don't now what code requires.
Look up ampacity too, see how it compares to your current.

You will have to find suitable terminations. I got CU/AL splice lugs at the home improvement store. But maybe yours just go in screw lugs in boxes - check the ratings.
Thank you for the response I'm currently searching for ideas on taking it from 4awg to 8awg into the growatt charger. I could put in conduit as we do have lots for rocks here.
 
Been drilling most of the morning the laser does help speed the process up, hoping to get the 1/2 of 174 busbars finished today to start on the second battery. After reviewing aluminum to copper bonding, I decided to spent extra and go with copper wire.
 

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Completed all the 1 inch and I'm going to try a cnc de-burr to in the drill press, would save hours of work.
I will update how well it goes or does not.
 

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