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diy solar

Victron charge controller

740GLE said:
Mk3 to usb is only to program the MPII via VE configure app and a laptop.

I think you need another dongle cable to talk to a cerbo or R Pi.

This is my first season with the unit, so limited hours in it but so far I have no issues, i have it powering a 15a and 30a load circuit, right now the 15a is powering the cabins 100a panel, eventually I’ll wire the 30a feed with the hopes of running a mini split. I was able to push over 2000w via hair dryer and heat gun without it blinking an eye, fans seem to come on around 1500w.

When this was at home I did charge the battery at around 14a via shore power and it didn’t have any issues. The Bluetooth can dongle did allow me to alter the shore power charging rate from 9.5a up to what I wanted but I was limited to a 15a circuit. We have a small 3k open frame inverter generator that I haven’t tried yet.

At this time we don’t have a need for 120ac 24/7 so it will be off when we’re not at camp, so it’ll live a cushy life.

No load idle is around 13w which is nice and close to my older 1500w reliable unit.
Click to expand...
That’s a slick setup. How did you manage to snug up the switch on the bottom of the lynx power in? Did it just happen to work out or is there a little jumper in there?
 
Simonbr said:
What is the difference between their older model MultiPlus and MultiPlus-II? I am assuming the MultiPlus-II is the way I should go.
Click to expand...
It is my understanding that if you are not feeding beck to the grid there is no real operational difference between the Victron Multiplus and Multiplus-II.
There is a pretty slight difference in the draw to run the inverters with the Multiplus II being a little more efficient (similar to the draw of an LED bulb), but not enough to change the maximum efficiency rating. Both the 24V Multiplus and MUltiplus-II have a maximum efficiency of 94%. The great blue one, @sunshine_eggo , should be here soon to make sure all that I am telling you is accurate.

So the real difference between the two is the form factor:
The Multiplus is shorter but sticks out further (14.3"h x 10.2"w x 8.6"d)
Where the Multiplus II is taller but flatter (21.1"h x 10.9"w x 5.8"d)
In a home based system this might not matter to much, but in my RV it is huge and the deciding factor. (I needed the shorter height of the Multiplus fro my RV.)

The part number for the 24V UL version of the Victron Multiplus is PMP242200102.

It also looks like, in general, the Multiplus is about $100 less than the Multiplus II.
 
SoggyShoes said:
It is my understanding that if you are not feeding beck to the grid there is no real operational difference between the Victron Multiplus and Multiplus-II.
There is a pretty slight difference in the draw to run the inverters with the Multiplus II being a little more efficient (similar to the draw of an LED bulb), but not enough to change the maximum efficiency rating. Both the 24V Multiplus and MUltiplus-II have a maximum efficiency of 94%. The great blue one, @sunshine_eggo , should be here soon to make sure all that I am telling you is accurate.

So the real difference between the two is the form factor:
The Multiplus is shorter but sticks out further (14.3"h x 10.2"w x 8.6"d)
Where the Multiplus II is taller but flatter (21.1"h x 10.9"w x 5.8"d)
In a home based system this might not matter to much, but in my RV it is huge and the deciding factor. (I needed the shorter height of the Multiplus fro my RV.)

The part number for the 24V UL version of the Victron Multiplus is PMP242200102.

It also looks like, in general, the Multiplus is about $100 less than the Multiplus II.
Click to expand...
Other advantage of the og multiplus is screw terminals instead of lever in mp2. Also peak power slightly less to go with the lower idle consumption

Guy Stewart gets into the details a little more. Basically for the US market, og Multiplus seems to be the better choice
Screenshot_20240522_122804_Chrome.jpg
 
740GLE said:
Mk3 to usb is only to program the MPII via VE configure app and a laptop.

I think you need another dongle cable to talk to a cerbo or R Pi.

This is my first season with the unit, so limited hours in it but so far I have no issues, i have it powering a 15a and 30a load circuit, right now the 15a is powering the cabins 100a panel, eventually I’ll wire the 30a feed with the hopes of running a mini split. I was able to push over 2000w via hair dryer and heat gun without it blinking an eye, fans seem to come on around 1500w.

When this was at home I did charge the battery at around 14a via shore power and it didn’t have any issues. The Bluetooth can dongle did allow me to alter the shore power charging rate from 9.5a up to what I wanted but I was limited to a 15a circuit. We have a small 3k open frame inverter generator that I haven’t tried yet.

At this time we don’t have a need for 120ac 24/7 so it will be off when we’re not at camp, so it’ll live a cushy life.

No load idle is around 13w which is nice and close to my older 1500w reliable unit.
Click to expand...
I noticed you have the Victron Lynx 1000 distribution box with their normal shunt. How do you like the Lynx 1000 and did you concider adding the shunt that goes with it instead?
 
Simonbr said:
I noticed you have the Victron Lynx 1000 distribution box with their normal shunt. How do you like the Lynx 1000 and did you concider adding the shunt that goes with it instead?
Click to expand...
Original build was primarily for 12v diaphragm pump and USB charging and Milwaukee battery charging. This was on a 35ah AGM unit and a 20w panel paired with a PWM kit.

Then I got a 50w panel and a group 31 battery gifted to me.

I then upgraded to the 100/15 Victron unit, spent a year with that the added the smart shunt once I incorporated my 460ah 12v DIY battery.

This recent upgrade was largest upgrade but building off what I had already bought. I was able to drill out the Lynx expansion ports from 5/16 to 3/8 and this allowed the Blue Seas to bolt directly to the Lynx. The Lynx power in has the “mega fuse hack” so I have protection for the MPII. Right now my biggest voltage drop from the battery cells to the MP II is that blue seas switch its small voltage but more notable vs the negative bus bar, I did torque it down to spec. I have the same switch on my battery box that has less voltage drop.

I did have to fabricate a 1/4x3/4” copper bus bar and shim for the shunt to connect the shunt to the Lynx at the same plane. $16 copper square stock off eBay netted me two 3” bus bars. In hindsight buying the victron Lynx shunt would have prob been better, but the price point of the smart shunt was to good to pass up.

I’ll be wiring up two 170w panels that will almost tap out that 100/15 SCC and keep my reconfigured 230ah 24v battery happy. I do have a 280 24v battery kit on order for Luyuan should be here around mid July I hope.
 
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Seeing I’m 24v, I have no issues using it. It’s a disconnect so I’d hope to never use it to break load.

That victron does come with mounting hardware which is nice, I had to source my own and I had to make a shim to secure it as well.
 
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