What's the best solar-related item you bought in 2023?

[ksmithaz1]

That's probably everyone out there ever

Some of the low-end fluke network test gear is overpriced junk, no better than a decent no-name tester for 5-10 times the money. That being said if you have $10 or $15K laying around, their high-end stuff is truly amazing, and dropping a PDF on a customer with the printed certification graph for every drop is always impressive. That is If you don't mind taking a mortgage out to get one. I prefer my low end amp clamp to my Fluke, it's smaller and works fine, and the probes are nicer. Back in the day I think it mattered more than it does now, when you had a buttload of discrete components and such. I used to have a quad-trace Tektronix 100Mhz scope. Very nice piece of equipment for it's day, I got it used for some ridiculous amount of money that was 1/10th of it's cost new. Didn't want to lug it out here the last time I moved. These days some low-end fab in China can turn out an IC and a handful of parts that does the same thing more reliably for a fraction of the cost, it's kinda scary. The Fluke calibration center is in Tempe just down the road 'a peice'. I drive by from time to time cutting thru to Awatukee.

 

[740GLE]

Victron smart shunt.

2024 is going to be a bigger year for purchases.

 

[SeaGal]

These days some low-end fab in China can turn out an IC and a handful of parts that does the same thing more reliably for a fraction of the cost, it's kinda scary.

And kinda sad... the older I get the more I appreciate the things that I have kept from years gone by. I have stuff from the 80's and early 90's that says Made in Britain, or Made in USA, or Made in Germany and they're built so solidly will probably outlast me.

 

[Hedges]

The fluke meters don't suck they just cost to much to risk for most of the stuff I do. Also the cheap ones are lighter and smaller.

I haven't killed mine yet. Even when I measured Isc of a 480Voc PV string. While it was connected to inverter input capacitors. Cost me an 11A fuse, that's all (and left some marks on the probe tip.)

I've tried to use 40 mA scale to measure standby draw of a car's electrical system, but blew the fuse when connecting. Realized I should have shorted it out with banana cable while initially making the connection. Now, I would use a clamp meter (Harbor Freight Ames because I was too cheap to buy the Fluke Will did.)

On the rare occasions when I need accurate measurements below mV, I use 6.5 digit HP 3456A. They can be had for about $150.

https://www.artisantg.com/TestMeasurement/68738-1/Keysight-Agilent-3456A-6-5-Digit-Digital-Voltmeter

Why is my 30 year old HP 3456A so good? - Page 1

Why is my 30 year old HP 3456A so good? - Page 1

www.eevblog.com

I tried using it for low resistance measurement, but that's not its forte'. Instead I used high (full operating) current from a power supply. The meter was good for measuring ppm stable power supplies.

Testing automotive fuses

After watching a video (sorry can’t find it now) showing resistance testing of cheap fuses and name-brand ones, I decided I’d better test the ones I’ve put in our cars. In the video, it was said that previously Harbor Freight sold fuses, but later recalled them and didn’t carry anymore. Fuses...

diysolarforum.com

 

[shvm]

An ESP32 dev board (I bought two).
Never thought such a tiny device costing so little could be of so much use reliving so much headache!!
And obligatory, 2023 was the year my entire hybrid Solar system was commissioned.

Next in line: buying a RS485 or CAN board and figuring out inverter comms

 

[ryankshaw]

An ESP32 dev board (I bought two).

I'm curious: what do you do with them? why are they so useful?

 

[740GLE]

I haven't killed mine yet. Even when I measured Isc of a 480Voc PV string. While it was connected to inverter input capacitors. Cost me an 11A fuse, that's all (and left some marks on the probe tip.)

I've tried to use 40 mA scale to measure standby draw of a car's electrical system, but blew the fuse when connecting. Realized I should have shorted it out with banana cable while initially making the connection. Now, I would use a clamp meter (Harbor Freight Ames because I was too cheap to buy the Fluke Will did.)

Not to open old wounds but all you need to do is measure voltage drop across automotive fuses, sure it’ll be very small voltage drop but it’ll be measurable and big difference vs no load.

Automotive fuses have open sensing “ports” on the top of them for a reason.

 

[Hedges]

That lets you see if the fuse is open.

Our '97 sable has gremlins, thinks the doors are open/closed/open. So door locks will pop up to prevent us from locking ourselves out while driving. Some gremlins seem related to transmission shift position sensor. Wife complained steering was heavy. I discovered it had power steering in park but not in drive. Replaced the sensor and many gremlins went away, for a while. Does it provide ground reference to ECU by contact with shaft?

I think the sits there drawing power when off, runs the battery down. I wanted to find out how much current.
For now I have a PV panel on the dash wired in, but don't know if that is enough to keep up.

 

[timselectric]

There's nothing worse than getting locked out of the car, while driving down the road.

 

[740GLE]

That lets you see if the fuse is open.

Our '97 sable has gremlins, thinks the doors are open/closed/open. So door locks will pop up to prevent us from locking ourselves out while driving. Some gremlins seem related to transmission shift position sensor. Wife complained steering was heavy. I discovered it had power steering in park but not in drive. Replaced the sensor and many gremlins went away, for a while. Does it provide ground reference to ECU by contact with shaft?

I think the sits there drawing power when off, runs the battery down. I wanted to find out how much current.
For now I have a PV panel on the dash wired in, but don't know if that is enough to keep up.

Nope each fuse is a resistor, current through a resistor has a voltage drop.

 

[Danke]

There's nothing worse than getting locked out of the car, while driving down the road.

That’s why when I come to a fork in the road, I take it.

 

[timselectric]

That’s why when I come to a fork in the road, I take it.

I'm always ready to eat.

 

[OffGridForGood]

Ah, the "Car electonics Gremlins" - love chasing ground-issues around older cars, where else can you honk the horn and watch the wipers do a pulse?! Good Times!

 

[Crowz]

That lets you see if the fuse is open.

Our '97 sable has gremlins, thinks the doors are open/closed/open. So door locks will pop up to prevent us from locking ourselves out while driving. Some gremlins seem related to transmission shift position sensor. Wife complained steering was heavy. I discovered it had power steering in park but not in drive. Replaced the sensor and many gremlins went away, for a while. Does it provide ground reference to ECU by contact with shaft?

I think the sits there drawing power when off, runs the battery down. I wanted to find out how much current.
For now I have a PV panel on the dash wired in, but don't know if that is enough to keep up.

Most of the ones I fixed doing what your experiencing was from faulty grounds straps. Either the engine to frame ones or the body to frame ones.

 

[OffGridForGood]

There's nothing worse than getting locked out of the car, while driving down the road.

Well...there was that ONE TIME in college...good thing we had the window down...
HEY we are getting pretty far off the topic here!

2024 - two more 15.5kWh battery packs, double my PV (hopefully with used "free PV panels) and move the last of the house loads onto the OSSPP {On Site Solar Power Plant}.

 

[Ampster]

I bought my SolArk in 2022 but the Raspberry PI I purchased in 2023 to run Solar Assistant was the best, because it gave me instantaneous reporting for the SolArk.

 

[robbob2112]

I received this fluke as part of my tool kit, as a new computer technician for Digitial Equipment Corporation in the early 1980's. After several moves to new homes, I thought I had lost it. I had not used it since the late 90's.

I found my old tool kit after my last move in 2021. I opened up the kit, and there it was, which was great, cause I needed it to check the voltages on my LiFePo4 cells.

Believe it or not, I switched it on, and to my utter amazement, the display lit up and it was ready and waiting. I thought to myself, WTF? does this thing have a nuclear battery? It was in my kit untouched for around 30 years! And I had never replaced the battery in this meter before.

I opened it up by unscrewing the back, and found an Aerocell 9V inside. I immediately ordered a bunch of Aerocell batteries!

Its obvious that these FLUKE meters pull zero volts when switched off, and are built like tanks. Worth every penny. I still shake my head in wonder that it turned on after all these years.

When in the Navy in Lemoore I worked in the calibration lab and worked on literally thousands of meters, calibration and repair. Simson 260, fluke 77an, phase angle volt meter, true rms, and a variety of others.

I had a 77an that had been dropped into a drum of old hydraulic fluid and left for days until it was empty and retrieved. It came in a ziplock to the lab. Take it apart and spray it with trichloroflorethane and clean it it.... new battery and it passed calibration and worked like new. Another run over by a tow tractor, put a new case and knob on it and it works. The only ones that were scraped were the ones that were literally melted from using the unfused amp input. And even those usually worked on other settings. Well we had one run over by a F18, that was just mangled.

The only meter I buy is a fluke.

 

[k490]

280 AH 16 EVE batteries from China crossing my fingers they show up and are good. Black Friday deals I got EG-4 3000 W 120V inverter from SS, 12 JA solar 395-watt panels, 20 feet of mounting rails and mounting hardware from Santan Solar local pickup. I will be wiring everything up to get ready for the batteries in February. I will be using a 6 circuit Reliance control generator transfer switch to switch circuits off the grid to my inverter. It will also have Grid power in to the inverter. This way I can switch in different circuits depending on the season. This inverter has a 25-amp limit not sure if I will move up to a larger inverter or just parallel more of these.

 

[Samsonite801]

A light-hearted thread for Christmas time...

As the title says... what's the best thing / what do you love the most that you bought this year. Either directly solar or a solar related tool, component etc...

I'll kick it off to say I love my new Raspberry Pi 5... amazingly powerful yet so small and power efficient. Lucky to get one as they're very limited supply over here. It will be put to good use for to handle some inverter RS485 comms in due course - once this old dog has learnt some new tricks, that is ?‍?

Best solar thing I bought this year was a pair of Coyote bi-focal 'reader' sunglasses... Wow, now I can read the solar panel sticker on a sunny day without having to stand 4 feet away...

I can also read the gauges and stereo buttons in my car now while I'm driving.


Ref:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HK2044/

 

[exmarkretired]

The inrush measurement is consistent and accurate. My other meters do not give consistent results. Instead of using a scope or shunt, I just clamp it on in two seconds. Just easier to make the videos. And tax deductible.

I didn't care for fluke until I got one. Just works every time. Broke two meters in the last few years. Even my Klein.

I didn't know there were any other brands of meters but Fluke! ?

I have 6 meters 4 Flukes( one is a 73 also), a cheap amazon chinese dc clamp meter and the one I borrow to people...

My new purchase was more panels, a hydraulic crimper with multiple dies. Helps with the more battery problem LOL The old hands really appreciate it. Works perfect every time, just like my hydraulic flare tool....

I think I am going to buy an 18v heat gun for X-mas....