chrisski
Solar Boondocker
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2020
- Messages
- 5,192
Well I ordered them really fast also. 30 for 18 connections, so I'll have spares. I don't think my cells will be in until October.Just FYI, they also shipped really fast.
Well I ordered them really fast also. 30 for 18 connections, so I'll have spares. I don't think my cells will be in until October.Just FYI, they also shipped really fast.
I have this IWISS and it didn't work with the same ring terminals Chris was using...mine was more messed up than his example.I’m sorry the crimps didn’t work for you. From your pictures you have used the wrong terminal and crimpers for the 26AWG wire.
It is critical to use the correct tool.
I use the Iwiss crimper for good results.
odd that they use one cavity for insulated and one for non-insulated, for all sizes 10-22...with most crimpers that would be 3 cavities.I had good luck with these from Crimp Supply.
26-24 Ga. Heat-Shrink Ring Terminals, 1/4" Stud
11A28016
and this crimper via Amazon: Channellock 909 9.5-Inch Wire Crimping Tool
This is kind of embarrassing. I bought a crimp tool that looked exactly the same as the one I used, which claimed it was good for 26 AWG wire, and I started an Amazon return. After I did this, I read closer and saw there was an adjustment for smaller wire, where I would physically loosen a screw and move the jaws to get it tighter. Instead of returning that tool tomorrow, I may try it.I have this IWISS and it didn't work with the same ring terminals Chris was using...mine was more messed up than his example.
https://www.amazon.com/SN-28B-Crimping-Terminal-Connector-JST-SM
I think part of the problem is the connectors for an M6 stud assume a larger wire, and the connectors made to work with 26 ga expect a small termin
I think part of the problem is the connectors for an M6 stud assume a larger wire, and the connectors made to work with 26 ga expect a small terminal.
Those show to be 22-24ga...that is what mine are...I doubled and even quadrupled the wire. I am considering cutting off a piece of thicker wite and put it in with the 26 and crimp all together. Not my idea, have heard of it being done.I use TE (tyco) connectors, and drill out the 5mm hole to 6mm if required. Mostly i just use 4mm bolts through the busbar. I have seen rivets used successfully long term.
I have attached a picture of the terminals i use, i still double the wire with these.
One day i’ll get around to documenting a build - i’m usually too busy to be messing around with phones when i’m putting a system together.
I would love a link to some M6 26ga versions.I still like my solder seal terminals. Hit it with the heat gun and it solders and heat shrinks all in one motion. Perfect 5 out of 5.
I don't have the tap so that is just one more tool for the project I would like to avoid, especially since I already got the longer grub bolts and terminals to do it that way.I drilled and tapped my bus connectors for a 6-32 screw. I wanted nothing extra on the battery terminal.
22-18 x 1/4 also works fine. Once soldered the size is not critical and the heat shrink provides strain relief.
Crimp is fine too if you have the right stuff.... however seems like many are struggling.
Saw Will using it in one of his videos where he said he liked it for small wires. I have the regular crimping tool that works much better for everything other than the small BMS wires. At the time, even went back and watched his video to make sure I was using the same cavity as he was. Don't remember the specific video.odd that they use one cavity for insulated and one for non-insulated, for all sizes 10-22...with most crimpers that would be 3 cavities.
The butt connectors work OK if you use a torch, butane or propane and get the connection warm enough. Using a heat gun will lead to a cold solder joint. I know from experience in years past. Any wire over 14 gauge, the solder seal butt connector may fail over time as the wire will not get warm enough even with a torch to provide a properly soldered joint.I still like my solder seal terminals. Hit it with the heat gun and it solders and heat shrinks all in one motion. Perfect 5 out of 5.
The two cavities seem to be labeled for insulators and not insulators. Two options. I already have at least 6 crimpers, three bought special for this project.Saw Will using it in one of his videos where he said he liked it for small wires. I have the regular crimping tool that works much better for everything other than the small BMS wires. At the time, even went back and watched his video to make sure I was using the same cavity as he was. Don't remember the specific video.
The regular crimper bent the heck out of the lug, making it really weak. Didn't have that problem with the littlest cavity on the manual squeezer (a technical term for sure).
By the time you're done we'll have to get you one of those shoe holders for your closet to hold them all.The two cavities seem to be labeled for insulators and not insulators. Two options. I already have at least 6 crimpers, three bought special for this project.
Actually I have one of those already, so we are good. I am happy to have bought dedicated crimpers for the various connectors, but almost wish I had known about this crimper before buying all the other ones:By the time you're done we'll have to get you one of those shoe holders for your closet to hold them all.
You might believe it but I've dissected plenty of these over the years on large wires and also saw failures on the end of wire terminals.Solder flows just fine. No cold solder. I have complete confidence there is a permanent and reliable connection that will outlast the battery.
For a critical connection such as this, I would not use the solder seal connectors.This only for the very small sensing wires that many seem to have trouble crimping. #14+ I would crimp all day long.