diy solar

diy solar

Wondering why're many people still building 12/24v system ?

I have both and its kinda handy.

The 48v powers my tp6048 which of course runs everything inside the house but the 12v system runs my workshop itself via a 12v inverter and powers my surveillance cameras, pi computers running solar assistant, several victron 12v battery chargers and a bunch more stuff.

Its nice that I can keep the pi's running even when I'm working on the 48v system too.

Now if I was starting from scratch it would be pure 48v but since I had a ton of 12v stuff from my old house it was a no brainer to use it like this.
 
new off grid said:
Greeting all,
Noticing lots of people here still think about building a new/huge system @ 12 or 24v
is it no debate that 48v is the only way to go ? it's everything better !
unless the new system is very small, sub 500w or upgrading from an even smaller one
Am I missing anything ?
happy harvesting ppl,
Click to expand...
Switching to 48v for new or larger systems does offer numerous advantages in terms of efficiency and performance, particularly for setups exceeding 500w. The higher voltage reduces power loss, improves component compatibility, and enables more efficient energy storage solutions. While smaller systems may still find viability at 12 or 24v, transitioning to 48v presents a compelling case for maximizing effectiveness and minimizing long-term costs.
 
new off grid said:
Greeting all,
Noticing lots of people here still think about building a new/huge system @ 12 or 24v
is it no debate that 48v is the only way to go ? it's everything better !
unless the new system is very small, sub 500w or upgrading from an even smaller one
Am I missing anything ?
happy harvesting ppl,
Click to expand...
How many years from now, can you repost the same thing except replace 48v with 96v?
 
I am begrudgingly going to build a 12V system for a few 12V loads that need backup power. The reasons: EG4 Lifepower4 12V/400Ah is 20% less than 48V, a single 400W panel is all that is needed for charging, and it simplifies running the damn thing. (The load is only 30W, but I would like at least 4 days of backup.)

Doing it at 48V would mean I need to add a second panel (minimum, more likely 3 total), a 48:12V buck converter, an extra fuse... and some crap for RSD. Instead of a $1,500 or so project it quickly becomes a $3,000 effort, and it begs for never ending additional scope.

Functionally there is no need for this system to grow. It just powers the cable line amp, modem, and an IoTaWatt. Everything else will eventually be supported by a separate system.
 
JRH said:
You are correct… what’s being suggested by some is like saying. “ no more 22LR ..ever” …
different needs would suggest different answers.
Click to expand...
My thought exactly, and as others noted, it can be handy to have a separate system to run lights and some tools while you work on a critical part of the main system. Generally my selections have been based on the trade off between capability and portability.
I should get an even smaller unit, 5v just for phone/tablet/small devices charging from a window sill.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JRH
I have a pretty hefty 12v system. Deals on really good inverters sucked me in. I also have a 24v system. I am going 48v next but will keep the 12v and 24v.

You can do really well on 12v if you design it right and don't try to live like your on the grid. The seemless grid like experience would be difficult with 12v, you have to manage your power usage to make it work well.

12v got me into solar with tinkering. I may never have gone off-grid without starting with 12v.
 
Something I always consider is not so much the volts but how many amps will be going through the front end of the inverter under loads. More amps is harder on gear and requires more parts and stronger better parts. The idea of increasing the voltage is not so much to save a few dollars on copper wiring from the batts, but to lower the current going through the driver stage in the inverter. The amps are the problem. Am I wrong here?
 
We are on a sailboat. It's a 24v boat. Made no sense to build 12v lithium batteries but total sense to build 24v batteries. That's what we did. 2x24v lithium gives us some redundancy. The starter motor is 24v so we have a pair of lead batteries in series for that. Having everything at 24v makes life so much easier. 24v is great as lots of kit about from trucks. Led lights are readily available at 24v.
 
Supervstech said:
The difference is, 12V is nigh impossible to cause shock injury, 48V needs little to be deadly. Sure, it is safe under most conditions, but tired, mistakes, in a hot room, and it can be deadly.

As long as you treat it with respect, it is very hard to die from a 48V dc system, but it CAN happen.
Use safety, don’t die.
Click to expand...
Speaking of 12 volt shocks ……? Perhaps you will know what happened..

A basic 3 burner Atwood propane stove with oven . It has a sparker/ lighter knob you turn that lights the gas burner you turn on. Everyone has one at some point…
It stopped working a while back..?? Wouldn't spark..…

I raised the top cover and discovered it was sparking but not at the burner but as the wires had aged and had slight cracks in the insulation it was arcing out the cracks where it lay on the metal everything is mounted on under the top cover .

I picked one wire up and turned the knob and it made me flinch from head to toe.. totally involuntary jerking …even my feet kicked…

Well , being sort of hard headed and a curious person, I just had to do it a few more times…mainly to see if I could resist the muscle jerks …NOPE ……it doesn’t hurt but it can’t be resisted…it is a significant response.

right fingers holds the wire and left fingers turns the stove knob..standing in rubber shoes and touching nothing else….The whole body feels like when the Dr taps yer knee with that hammer thing….You can’t not kick your foot.

Question..? Where is the electricity coming from….? A piezo sparker …? Somthing else…?
I’m unaware of any wires hooked up to the RV or 12V batteries……? I’m baffled ……

What voltage could this be.. how can this even be a real thing…

J.
 
DPC said:
I often wondered why cars never went to 32-36 volt..
Click to expand...

Light bulbs at higher voltages driving down the road would fail fairly quickly. Now with LED, might not be as large of a problem.

The second reason given was rain/ice/snow. A wire run at 12V submerged in saltwater can function a long time, with higher voltages like 36V it will fail much quicker.

DPC said:
But in the same breath a lot of people had cars that ran at 6 volt and they starters and lights and radio worked and no one complained.
Click to expand...

Until it was -20°F. Lights were dimmer too.
 
JRH said:
Speaking of 12 volt shocks ……? Perhaps you will know what happened..

A basic 3 burner Atwood propane stove with oven . It has a sparker/ lighter knob you turn that lights the gas burner you turn on. Everyone has one at some point…
It stopped working a while back..?? Wouldn't spark..…

I raised the top cover and discovered it was sparking but not at the burner but as the wires had aged and had slight cracks in the insulation it was arcing out the cracks where it lay on the metal everything is mounted on under the top cover .

I picked one wire up and turned the knob and it made me flinch from head to toe.. totally involuntary jerking …even my feet kicked…

Well , being sort of hard headed and a curious person, I just had to do it a few more times…mainly to see if I could resist the muscle jerks …NOPE ……it doesn’t hurt but it can’t be resisted…it is a significant response.

right fingers holds the wire and left fingers turns the stove knob..standing in rubber shoes and touching nothing else….The whole body feels like when the Dr taps yer knee with that hammer thing….You can’t not kick your foot.

Question..? Where is the electricity coming from….? A piezo sparker …? Somthing else…?
I’m unaware of any wires hooked up to the RV or 12V batteries……? I’m baffled ……

What voltage could this be.. how can this even be a real thing…

J.
Click to expand...
Go grab one of the ignition wires from your car while it is running and see if it feels the same. :ROFLMAO:

12V won't jump the gap for electronic ignition, it needs a secondary circuit to up the volts.
 
JRH said:
Speaking of 12 volt shocks ……? Perhaps you will know what happened..

A basic 3 burner Atwood propane stove with oven . It has a sparker/ lighter knob you turn that lights the gas burner you turn on. Everyone has one at some point…
It stopped working a while back..?? Wouldn't spark..…

I raised the top cover and discovered it was sparking but not at the burner but as the wires had aged and had slight cracks in the insulation it was arcing out the cracks where it lay on the metal everything is mounted on under the top cover .

I picked one wire up and turned the knob and it made me flinch from head to toe.. totally involuntary jerking …even my feet kicked…

Well , being sort of hard headed and a curious person, I just had to do it a few more times…mainly to see if I could resist the muscle jerks …NOPE ……it doesn’t hurt but it can’t be resisted…it is a significant response.

right fingers holds the wire and left fingers turns the stove knob..standing in rubber shoes and touching nothing else….The whole body feels like when the Dr taps yer knee with that hammer thing….You can’t not kick your foot.

Question..? Where is the electricity coming from….? A piezo sparker …? Somthing else…?
I’m unaware of any wires hooked up to the RV or 12V batteries……? I’m baffled ……

What voltage could this be.. how can this even be a real thing…

J.
Click to expand...
The spark gap equates to about 10,000V per 3mm gap...
So... most stoves spark 4 gaps simultaneously... so 40,000V...

Hurts dont it... dont do that.
 
OffGridForGood said:
got a link to that 360v hybrid?
does this mean I need a 112s BMS?
Click to expand...
www.aimscorp.net

Hybrid Inverter Charger 9.6 kW Power Output 15 kW Solar Input Grid Tie & Battery Back Up

The NEW REVOLUTIONARY AIMS Power Hybrid Inverter, listed to UL standards, gives you total control of your power in one product! It combines solar power and battery backup into one complete, easy to use solution, that provides FREE power and independence from the grid. In addition, the AIMS Power...
www.aimscorp.net www.aimscorp.net

I misspoke, its 230V battery voltage but its programable from 80-495?
It comes with the battery, not much specs on it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
charging 12 volt vs 24
Replies
2
Views
355
Warpspeed
W
J
From Harbor freight special 12 Volt Off Grid learning system, to new ground up build off grid solar build plan.
2
Replies
22
Views
973
Doggydogworld
Doggydogworld
K
48V vs 24V why/why not?
2
Replies
27
Views
2K
time2roll
T
M
Why isn't a 48v to 12v system optimal?
Replies
10
Views
833
pollenface
pollenface
W
Component Suggestions (especially all-in-one inverter/SCC/charger) for 48V cabin system
Replies
2
Views
218
Wineguy
W
Back
Top