I thought so but wasn't sure. That was a another factor for me. The iotawatt will store up to 15 years worth of data that I can recall at any time, without the Internet
cheap/simple device to measure actual power used by HVAC- building solar just to run AC
- Thread starter hertfordnc
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MrM1
I'm Here, But I'm Not All There
@hertfordnc I would consider a separate, smaller portion of your home be retrofitted with an AC/DC Mini Split (or splits) to cool critical rooms. These AC/DC mini splits can be operated in day light hours with NO AC line input at all. Just 3-6 solar panels direct. But can also be wired AC for night time use.
This is easier than trying to build a complete system that will run your existing AC unit off grid. and then any off-grid system you build does not have to be so large only powering lights fans and even refrigerators.
Benefits of an AC/DC direct solar Heat Pump solution
- smaller off grid set up
- can run on solar only
- can be used in tandem with existing AC, but on solar for lower power bills
- A combo small off grid system + AC/DC solar input mini spilt could be less than a large off grid system that powers existing AC
Just a thought.
This is easier than trying to build a complete system that will run your existing AC unit off grid. and then any off-grid system you build does not have to be so large only powering lights fans and even refrigerators.
Benefits of an AC/DC direct solar Heat Pump solution
- smaller off grid set up
- can run on solar only
- can be used in tandem with existing AC, but on solar for lower power bills
- A combo small off grid system + AC/DC solar input mini spilt could be less than a large off grid system that powers existing AC
Just a thought.
JWLV
-.-. --.-
- Joined
- May 27, 2020
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You mentioned that you wanted to do this because of Hurricane Isabel in 2003. Going solar to power a heat pump HVAC means you'll likely need many solar panels. If a strong enough hurricane knocked out power for 8 days in 2003, will your solar panels survive a hurricane like that? Solar panels are almost like sails on a boat.
Its cloud based which is why in the earlier post I did on this I said
"Im not a brand fan but I would think for the average user the emporia would be the better choice at $165 vs $314 for the iotawatt.
Both basically serve the same purpose from what I can tell. The iotawatt is better if offline is a must and or having the data local only."
The emporia will show you how much a circuit is using, has used, etc over a given period of time you select.
So again if you have internet and just want to know how much something is using power wise including load spikes (which the op asked for) and have internet for it to work with $165 beats $314.
If you want to go all offline and not have it sending data then the iotawatt is a good buy.
I have multiple homes and shops and being able to find what my stuff is doing with my phone or a pc from anywhere in the world is pretty handy to me which is why I like the cloud based method.
I originally wanted nothing to do with the cloud method but after having it vs the local method which is what the first unit I had did I prefer the cloud method now and Im pretty anti-cloud/net server for most stuff.
But as I said either will do what the op wants I just think the iotawatts price is overkill for what he said he wanted to do.
One thing the iotawatt shows which I appreciate is the power factor of a load. Does the Vue perchance show this?
From the data tables? No.
As for data thats stored in the cloud it hangs around like this :
1-second data available for 3 hours
1-minute data available for 7 days
15-minute data available for one year
1-hour, day and above available for lifetime of device
I downloaded the export from it just now to see what was in it just to see and its very detailed.
Personally for my usage it worthless to me since I get all the info I need from the web interface but its nice if I wanted it for some reason.
The 1 second data is only useful to me for seeing whats pulling what at that exact moment. Great for hunting down pesky phantom loads in the house. Either someone left something on or a grand kid forgot their charger somewhere
I never use the minute or hourly stuff personally.
The daily info is my "goal" for the day. Its also how I figure out what the months power bill is going to run.
The monthly one serves the same power bill usage too.
The live display set to by the second on the website is what I leave it one if Im monitoring whats actually going on.
I think this is what the original poster wanted.
This is a by the minute graph of one of my heat pumps. You can see where it surged to 1.53 when coming on.
Since the data is captured per circuit you can call up reports of what each one is doing or has done.
This is a by the minute graph of one of my heat pumps. You can see where it surged to 1.53 when coming on.
Since the data is captured per circuit you can call up reports of what each one is doing or has done.
JLBinTN
New Member
Panels and inverters are relatively inexpensive. Batteries per kWh are not. You'll spend a a large sum of money attempting to store enough power to operate an HVAC unit all night.
Personally, I'd start with enough panels and a sufficient inverter to operate during a mostly cloudy day, along with a a single 5kWh hour battery (enough to maintain power if PV drops below necessary level for a short period of time), and then just flip a transfer switch on the unit to run on grid at night. Additional batteries can always be added to the system later, and I suspect future batteries will get less expensive over time.
Robbert
Solar Enthusiast
An offgrid inverter will do that trick for you. Settings Solar, Battery, Utility, and charging solar only. It automatically switches to grif input if battery is too low. No manual interaction with transfers witch is necessary.
hertfordnc
New Member
i may do something like that. I could start with the one mini-split we have in our bedroom. But however I get there. My strategy is to power specific systems one at a time on 100% solar.
Maybe one minisplit, or the pool pump. or the washer and dryer.
Yeow , you are 350 miles east of me in NC ( I’m in the the mountains) , your a dead bulls eye of many many many atlantic hurricanes …. your near where the gulf stream gets close to the outer banks and brings the storms with em….. I left Chas SC 30 years ago for this reason..and it’s positioned better than you.
absolutely build or buy a system to cover you during the fall…use it for fun the rest of the year…
After all I have been through on the coast with hurricanes in my life, I would never be without a back up power supply regardless of cost..
unless one has been there during the aftermath , one has no idea…
MrM1
I'm Here, But I'm Not All There
Mini Split? Easy.
Direct Solar supplemented mini split? Easier!
Pool pump and washer? Might Need more of a robust system. Possibly even a Lo Frequency inverter (not like many of the cheaper All-in-one's ) to start the pool pump reliably every time.
But dryer? Easy start, but BIG (think 5000 resistive watts) by itself. Big hog. Big system. Much batteries.
Quattrohead
Solar Wizard
Not necessarily, mine draws 4-500w from the drum motor, it is a cheap olde fashioned AC motor with the same start up difficulties as any other motor like this.
MrM1
I'm Here, But I'm Not All There
I'm right there with you. Old dryer. I'm looking at it thru the lens of Low Frequency inverters. My Schneider SW 4024 has no problem with it. Hi Frequency might be.
EastTexCowboy
Solar Wizard
This is a snapshot of load from yesterday. It got up to 87 degrees here. The spikes are almost exclusively the 3 ton Mitsubishi ramping up (mini-split technology but with a matched conventional air handler). As you can see it's drawing around 2kw above the ongoing load. I haven't been though a summer with these units yet but I'm encouraged so far. The house is 2012 construction with spray foam insulation and good quality windows so that helps a lot. Based on the info you provided on your AC unit I think it would behoove you to consider replacing it with something much more efficient. Going from a 12 SEER to something like a 20 SEER or better is going to make a big impact on your consumption. That will have a corresponding big impact on the solar production and batteries needed. These are also 100% efficient down to 5 degrees so they don't even install heat strips for our part of the country.
hertfordnc
New Member
Where i live wind is not the problem. We've never seen more than a Cat 2. It's the huge number of trees taking out a huge number of power lines that has the lights out for days. Also flooding keeps the roads closed.
hertfordnc
New Member
So it's the conventional blower that's pulling all that power. No way around that for a ducted system. might be a while before my wife will tolerate minisplits on the walls. (we loved them in our last house but the aesthetics are different)
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
What units?
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